Everybody wants to save the earth, nobody wants to help mom do the dishes.  --P.J. O'Rourke

Showing posts with label Cooking. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Cooking. Show all posts

Friday, January 8, 2010

Do You Have A Pepper Mill In Your Pocket?




One recent trend I simply can't abide is the giant restaurant pepper mill. I dunno what brain surgeon came up with this practice, but for the pepper lover, nothing is more of a PITA than having to wait while some poor waitron grinds on and on, impatiently waiting for you to tell them to stop.  The alternatives to this ghastly ritual are crappy pepper packets, preground pepper put into a salt shaker or going without entirely.  Well, those last two options are actually the same since pepper won't fit out the smaller holes of the salt shaker. Well, thanks to the internetz, I no longer have to suffer in silence, while looking around for a good source of peppercorns, I found this miniature peppermill over at Pepper Passion - a site dedicated to all things pepper.
So the next time you see me I'll have one of these little numbers in my pocket, though I may also be happy to see you.

Tuesday, January 5, 2010

These Ribs Will Rock You To Your Very Foundation


Hamersley's Bistro Braised Short Rib Recipe

Made this recipe for Christmas Eve a few times and these ribs are the best I have ever had, much better than the over-rated ones I had a Craft in NYC, that and they are dead simple to make.  Two suggestions, make sure you have plenty of room in the pot before you put them in the oven or you will cause an epic fire, get really good quality ribs from a butcher, don't bother with supermarket ribs, they are too fatty and small.  I recommend John Dewar's in Boston, Newton & Wellesley.  Oh, and these ribs should really be served with some slightly lumpy garlicky mashed potato's, steamed broccoli rabe would also be a nice accompaniment (the bitterness will nicely set off the sweetness of the ribs and spuds.


Gordon Hamersley's Bistro Cooking at Home
Beef Short Ribs Braised in Dark Beer with Bacon and Red Onions
Serves 6
6-8 lbs bone-in beef short ribs
Kosher salt & freshly ground black pepper
About 3 tbsp vegetable oil
1/2 lb bacon, cut into 1-inch pieces
2 medium red onions, cut cross-wise into 1/2 inch rounds
2 tbsp tomato paste
2 bottles stout beer, such as Guinness (IPA works too if you're not into stout)
1/4 cup red wine vinegar
2 cups beef stock or combo of beef & chicken stock
Heat the oven to 350. Trim the excess fat from the ribs and season them on all sides with salt and pepper. In a large heavy Dutch oven, heat the oil until very hot. Working in batches, brown the ribs on all sides adding more oil if necessary. Remove the ribs and pour off the rendered fat but don't clean the pot. 
Add the bacon and cook until most of its fat has rendered, about 5 minutes. Add the onions and cook until lightly browned, about 6 minutes. Add the tomato paste and cook, stirring, for another 2 minutes. Add the beer, vinegar and beef stock. Put the ribs back in the pot. Bring to a boil, cover the pot and cook in the oven until they are fork-tender, about 2 hours 15 minutes. (Begin checking them after 2 hours).
Take the lid off and continue cooking the ribs for an additional 15 minutes, uncovered.
Very carefully, so as not to break apart the meat, transfer the ribs and the onions to a rimmed platter or sheet pan and keep warm. Degrease the liquid if necessary. Bring it back to a boil and cook until reduced by at least a third.


Tuesday, December 29, 2009

Building Your Mid Life Crisis Kitchen? Consider These Often Overlooked Items From The Commercial Kitchen

French Top Range




Griddles and Charbroilers are a dime a dozen in the midlife crisis kitchen, but you almost never see a range with a French top. Although the grill and griddle are certainly worthwhile additions to a range top, the French top may be a better choice.  A French top is basically a modern approximation of an antique coal fired range  in that it gives you a full spectrum of cooking heat, from simmer to boil, on one large surface.  Although they can be had in a larger size, the most common size available for the home is 24" x 24".  The really nice thing about the French top is that this intuitive approach to cooking allows you to concentrate on the food without fiddling with a bunch of knobs.  A conventional gas hob forces you to bend over and peer beneath large pots  to see what the flame is doing, and since the average hob is a bit touchy, you'll need to remain in that position while adjusting the heat.  With the French top, the temperature of a pot is obvious by it's position, if it's in the middle, it's hot, if it's on the perimeter, it's not - you can't get much simpler than that.

A Salamander Broiler




I can't recall ever seeing a salamander in a home kitchen, which is odd given it's ubiquitousness in the commercial kitchen.  A salamander is a top fired grill/broiler typically mounter on the back of a range, much like an over the stove microwave/hood combo.  There are two really great things about the salamander, it's flexibility and it's position.  In a salamander, you can cook anything from Creme Brulee to Scrod, try that with your char grill.  The eye level position of the salamander's grill allows you to closely monitor the cooking process.  For most people, the salamander is definitely overkill, but if you really want to bang out food they really can't be beat.

A Pot Filler




Frankly, I don't know why every home doesn't have a potfiller, it seems like such a no brainer and it's not like they cost a million bucks. A faucet by the stove, what's not to like?

Friday, November 6, 2009

Quick and Easy Chicken Gyro's



While it's certainly true that the quickest and easiest gyros at the neighborhood Greek joint or "House of Pizza", the vast majority of take out gyros are made with some weird, processed, sausage-like mystery meat.      There is no reason you should have to settle for those when really delicious gyros are so easily (and quickly) made at home.

Ingredients:
  • Real thick pita bread - Not the sandwich pockets.  Real thick and puffy pita bread can sometimes be a bit hard to find, (Costco sells it) but plain Indian naan bread is equally good and more readily available (Whole Foods sells it).
  • Tomato and Onion
  • Lemon
  • Oregano
  • Garlic
  • Olive Oil
  • S&P
  • Tzatziki (I use a quality pre-made for simplicity, but it's easy to make your own)
  • Kalamata Olives
  • Chicken (boneless breast or thigh)
  • Decent Feta Cheese.
NB:  I purposely did not give amounts because this is the kind of dish where you can pretty much wing it, but if it helps, to serve four I bought; 1.3lb of Chicken used the juice of one whole lemon and 3 garlic cloves for the chicken and marinade.

Directions:
  • Cut chicken into thin short strips and place in Ziploc freezer bag with; the juice of the lemon, dash of oregano, S&P, a few cloves of minced garlic and olive oil. marinate for 1/2 hour or so.
  • While chicken is marinating, coarsely chop tomato and onion and mix
  • Pit and chop olives
  • Crumble Feta
  • If you are making your own tzatziki, make it now.
  • Brush pita or naan bread with olive oil, salt and pepper.
  • Heat Grill or Grill pan and large frying pan over high heat
  • Sear chicken in frying pan, letting it get nice and crusty
  • Warm naan bread one at a time in grill pan (or grill) until nice and pillowy with nice grill marks slightly charred.  It is pretty easy to do this while you are searing chicken if you are quick and pay attention.  cover the pita with foil to keep it warm.  If you are not doing this step concurrently with chicken, put the cooked chicken in a 200 degree oven to keep warm.
Diners assemble their own gyros like tacos, with chicken on pita topped with tzatziki, feta and tomato & onion mixture.  I will sometimes as some Romain cause that's the kind of guy I am.  The whole process takes a little over a half hour.


Thursday, October 29, 2009

A Few More Things You Need For Your Kitchen And A Couple You Don't


Good Quality Spatulas










With the possible exception of knives and and frying pans, the tool I most often "turn" to is the spatula, most often the one above.  It may seem like overly anal, foodblog falderal, but having the right spat for the job makes all the difference in both results and ease of use.  What sets this type of spatula apart from it's cheapy supermarket relatives are stiffness and a sharp edge.  Food sticks to pans, sometimes by design, and sometimes not, but in either case a sharp stiff spatula is a welcome companion.  Nothing scrapes up the crunchy yummy fond at the bottom of the pan like these and you're guaranteed not to leave the seared exterior of chicken or fish stuck to the pan when you turn the food.  As an added bonus, when it comes time to cleanup, these guys crush scotchbrite.  The one pictured above is made by Lamson & Goodnow, a 170 year old cutlery manufacturer in Western Massachusetts.



Kitchens accumulate rubber spats like dryers collect socks, I count around 9 in my kitchen, the vast majority of which I never use - because they suck and I should throw them away.  The one I use almost exclusively is the one pictured above.  The stainless handle is strong like bull and the silicone blade doesn't fall off, crack or harden.  The one I have is quite a bit bigger than the run of the mill model and the long handle makes the job easier, faster and more neat.  I got mine at Sur La Table, but I don't see them on their website anymore. I did find them at Kitchenworks though for a pretty reasonable price.

A Huge White Poly Cutting Board & A Non-Slip Mat








Really? Yes, Really.   A big white poly cutting board makes prep work a helluva lot easier and they are as common and cheap as Megan Fox.  It's great to have room to prep almost everything a recipe calls for on one board without dirtying every bowl in the house.  Chop some onion and then push it off to the side to make some room for the carrots.  Get the biggest one you can still easily clean in your sink or DW.  With regards to the non-slip mat, it doesn't have to be anything fancy, just washable and easy to store.  The one above is sold for three bucks at the "Webstaurant Store"  I have never bought anything from them, but the price seems good.  Alternatively you can put a damp kitchen towel under your board or even that red mesh that goes on glassware shelves in bars.  The important thing is to keep the board from moving around so that you don't cut yourself.

A Couple of Things You Don't Need


A Wooden Cutting Board




Listen, I like the way they look as well, but they're really just kitchen bling, and I am cool with that if that's what you into.  Other than for looking, serving on, or cutting bread, they not the best choice.  Wood boards are unsanitary, difficult to clean and needlessly expensive.  Poly is better, cheaper and lasts longer.

The Mushroom Brush




To believe in the unique qualities and magical abilities of this shamwow of kitchen gadgets requires a suspension of disbelief exceeded only by the demands placed on audiences of  the 1994 movie "Junior".
"Mushrooms Absorb Water Like a Sponge Spoiling the Taste of a Dish".  If you believe that, I've got some Himalayan Sea Salt and Fiji Water you're gonna love.  Give me a break, shrooms are already chock full of water, they grow in damp places for chrissakes.  Category : Re-Gift immediately.

Tuesday, October 27, 2009

Faster Mashed Potatoes With a Potato Ricer



If food is love, than good mashed potatoes are the tantric sex.  Like alot of simple things, getting mashers to come out perfectly is more difficult than it seems and can be a real PITA.  The texture or mouth feel is all important and most potato mashers are haphazardly designed and manufactured, requiring you to pound away for what seems like an eternity before you get decent results (hey, just like tantric sex).  I don't know about you, but by the time I get home from a busy day, I am really not in the mood for all that effort, which has generally meant rice or bakers would have to suffice (the culinary equivalent of "afternoon delight").  Three of four months ago, on a lark, I shelled out for a Potato Ricer, which looks for all the world like a giant garlic press.  I had up until that moment considered that the Potato Ricer's main function was separating me from my money.  To this day, I have no idea what came over me, call it the hand of providence or what have you, but this temporary lapse in judgement has changed my life.  Using a ricer, the mashing takes less than a minute (four servings), and principally consists of the time it takes me to stuff it with spuds a few times.  You'll need pretty good grip strength though, so if you have carpal tunnel these might not be for you, but otherwise, these things are well worth the money and space they take up in the pantry.  BTW: The best tip on mashers I have ever received was from Cook's Illustrated's practice of getting as much of the H2O out of the boiled potatoes before you mash them, it really leads to a fluffier result. (I return them to the hot pan and stir over the off, but still warm burner).

Sunday, October 25, 2009

Cleaning Rusty or Stained Carbon Steel and Cast Iron



Even though you are never supposed to put carbon steel or cast iron cookware in the dishwasher, some well meaning individual invariably does it at some point.  Nothing rusts iron and steel like the dishwasher, and when they come out of the dishwasher they look ruined.  The next time this happens to you, use Barkeepers Friend to strip off the rust, it works alot better than a Sham Wow.  Seriously though, this stuff get's surface rust and stains off metal really easily.


More...

Thursday, October 22, 2009

DePasquale's Sausage Shop - Yummy Chinese BBQ Sausages For Not A Lot of Wonga



The village of Nonantum is already justifiably famous for being the childhood home of Matt LeBlanc and for it's Big Santa, but the real attraction is the sausages.  A friend turned me on to DePasquale's a couple of weeks ago and I had largely forgotten about it until I was penning the post on Ah-So sauce below.  How do you go from a sticky sweet "Chinese" sauce to an Italian sausage place?  Well, it's not as big a leap as one might think, as DePasquale's is the home of Chinese BBQ flavored pork sausage.  I was initially a bit put off by the somewhat dilapidated looking exterior, but around here good things often come in inauspicious packages (see the Dudley Chateau.) and the interior was immaculate.  After a brief transaction that had all the charm of a drug deal, I left with a tidy brown bag full of porky goodness.  I don't know who came up with the idea of Chinese BBQ sausages, but brothers and sisters, it's lightning in a bottle.  I grilled them up so the exterior was nicely caramelized and the result was almost bacon like in it's goodness, especially when paired with Chinese hot mustard.  So next time you're down by the Lake (as Nonantum is known as locally) pick up a dozen of these, you won't regret it, I suggest them as party appetizers.  On a side note, the Lake is also home to one of the most peculiar local dialects in America.  I dunno where this bizarre patois came from (no one seems to) but you can check out some examples here : Lake Talk

Wednesday, October 21, 2009

AH-SO Sauce


Mention this stuff to any current or former Massachusetts resident over 30 and you bound to get a smile.  This stuff dates back to the early Chun King dynasty, back when La Choy "Made Chinese Food Swing American" (click to re-live) and was a staple of New England regional cuisine.  Basically this stuff tries to approximate the taste of traditional American-Chinese restaurant "spare ribs".  Ah-So sauce is especially popular on appetizers like chicken wings, keilbasa slices and of course, pork ribs.   Brush a little Ah-So on right before the food is done and pop it on the grill or under the broiler for a bit until the sticky sweet sauce carmelizes a bit.  The reason it's just a regional oddity is that Ah-So was originally made in the Garden City of Newton, MA (Now Made In New Jersey)

15 Minute Bolognese Style Pasta Dinner


Photo Credit : http://www.dbgg1979.com/

I have been making this easy sauce as a quick weeknight meal for a few years now, and it never fails to please, and it really can be made in about 15 minutes.  My family has unabashedly used supermarket marinara sauce as meat sauce base for pasta since I was a child, it's cheap, quick, easy and tasty.  We all know the old aphorism; "Good, Fast,Cheap - Pick any Two" and it applies to just as aptly to cooking as it does to software development, fast and cheap food is seldom very good.  And thus it was with my childhood meat sauce, if you wanted it to be good, you would have to extensively doctor up the jarred sauce, which of course takes time.  The problem with most supermarket marinara sauce is it's cloying sweetness, the taste is almost instantly identifiable and they all taste the same, adding ground beef adds flavor, but does nothing for the sweetness.  So, if you want good and fast, cheap needs to go, the good news is that pasta and sauce is so cheap per serving, that even doubling the price only raises the cost to the level of a typical dinner.  Anyway, if you can stomach paying $10.00 for a jar of pasta sauce at Whole Foods read on.  Without further fanfare the recipe (serves 4-5 generously)

1 32oz. Jar  - Rao's Marinara Sauce (it's worth it I swear)
1/2 lb. - Ground Beef
1/2 lb. - Sweet Italian Pork Sausage (casing removed)
1 lb. Pasta (I like fresh ravioli)
Actual Italian Parmesan Cheese from the refrigerated section
Heavy Cream or Half and Half (cream tastes best)

Steps:

1. Pan Fry Beef and Sausage breaking it up into small bits with the spatula.
2. When the meat is finished if it is super greasy drain off most of the fat.
3. Add the Rao's sauce right to the hot pan and scrape off any yummy bits stuck to the bottom of the pan.
4. Decrease heat to med low and simmer till the pasta is ready.
5. Add 1/2 cup (more or less) of Parm to sauce
6. Add a bit of the cream to taste. in the neighbor hood of 1/4 cup or so.
7. Serve with Pasta

Woot ! Done, hope you enjoy it.





More...

Thursday, October 15, 2009

Jasper White's Cooking From New England



In general I am not a big fan of regional cookbooks, too often they are either dry scholarly tomes written by home economics professors or mass media food fad hack jobs like the innumerable "Cajun" cookbooks that came out during the "blackened" food craze.  Part of the problem I suspect is that old regional folk dishes are regional for a reason.  It's not that they are "bad" per se, but they can be an acquired taste and often use ingredients that are difficult to obtain outside of their region.  Regional recipes also tend to be strongly associated with local ethnicities, and herein lies the rub.  Although most people claim to be proud of their heritage, the vast majority of Americans historically eschew things that are stereotypically associated with distinct ethnicities and or social class.  With the greater emphasis on diversity this is slowly changing, but unfortunately many folk recipes are already forgotten.  Chefs too often focus too heavily on creating a "new" taste and ignore local traditions (Dill in clam chowder is one of my pet peeves).  White's book is the happy exception, it's well written, contains both strictly traditional and adapted recipes and he explains local ingredients and traditions almost reverently.  I suspect this is because Jasper is originally from New Jersey and came to this food later in life.  In any case, this book has recipes you simply can't find anywhere else.  A good example is "Red Flannel Hash", although we just called it hash as a kid.  I hadn't thought about this dish  or had it in possibly 35 years and I have NEVER seen it on a menu.  Red Flannel Hash is basically left overs from a New England Boiled Dinner (also in the book).  The corned beef and veggies are mixed with pickled beets and spuds, then chopped and pan fried until a nice crust forms on the bottom. It's wicked pissa, I assure you.


More...

Tuesday, October 13, 2009

Making The Worlds Best Grilled Sandwich



A good grilled cheese sandwich is one of life's most sublime pleasures, unfortunately most grilled cheese sandwiches consist of two slices of indifferently toasted greasy slices of stale white bread haphazardly slapped together around lukewarm gummy "cheese food" center.  I was fortunate enough to grow up in a family in which the grilled cheese sandwich was held in Eucharistic regard.  The secret to a good grilled cheese, as with almost all things cooking related is: good ingredients well prepared.  The perfect grilled cheese is one with evenly browned bread - crisp on the outside and moist on the inside and a filling of creamy melted cheese (hot but not scalding).  Seems simple, and it is if you follow a few guidelines;
1. Use whatever bread you like, I personally like a French Pullman loaf
2. Use Real butter, softened
3. Use decent cheese (I like Cabot extra sharp cheddar)
4. Use a good frying pan (or griddle)
5. Place a grill press or small pan on the sandwich while cooking (don't push down on it)
6. Get the correct temperature, usually med low (drop some butter in the hot pan if your not sure, it should foam and brown after a bit, but not sizzle and burn.
7. Use your sense of smell and your eyes, if it smells like it might be burning, it probably is.
8. I like dijon mustard and or tomatoes on my grilled cheese

That being said, here is how I do it;
A: Set pan temp and pre-heat the pan
B: While the pan is heating. cut the cheese and assemble the sandwich, buttering one side evenly.
C: Place sandwich butter side down in the pan and place grill press or other weight on top.
D: Use your spatula and sneak a peek every once in a while.
E: Once you are satisfied with the browning,  place the sammy brown side down on a plate and butter remaining side.
F: Repeat C & D until done and cheese is melted
G: Let cheese cool a bit and cut diagonally. (This keeps the cheese from spewing out the sides)

Wednesday, October 7, 2009

There Is A Right Way, And A Wrong Way To Do Everything



Even if you don't own a larding needle, make puff pastry swans or make a cucumber into a turtle, Jacques' 800 plus page manifesto of cooking techniques is a great resource.  Pepin gives illustrated detailed directions for doing everything you can imagine in the kitchen, and a lot you can't (deep fried eggs for one).  Think you know your way around a kitchen?  Jacques will bring the smacques down hard on you and make you his bitch, I guarantee.

Zyliss Plastic Lettuce Knife




A while back my daughter went to a birthday party at a kids cooking school and came home with one of these plastic knives.  They are intended for lettuce, which I don't quite get, but they are also pretty good at cutting most things (for a plastic knife).  If you have a kid who likes to "help" these knives are a pretty safe way for them to get used to handling a knife without severing any digits.  The Lettuce knife is about the same size as a small chef's knife and because it is serrated, it gets the kids in the habit of slicing with a back and forth motion rather than chopping.  Of course you can't mince anything with it, but for everything else it should be fine.


More...

Tuesday, October 6, 2009

A Few Things You Need For Your Kitchen, A Few Things You Don't



Need: An Immersion Blender AKA "Stick Blender"
Excepting ice laden mixed drinks, there is almost no kitchen chore a decent immersion blender can't do.  They have the added benefit of working with any container, no matter how large.  Soups, sauces, even mashed potatoes - if your into that kind of thing.  They also have the added benefit of easy cleanup, "rinse and dry".  These are De Riguer if you are a soup nazi.



Don't Need: Colander
I know your Mom had one, but you don't need one, they are good for one thing, pasta and that's about it.  A much better option is the strainer below.



Need: A Good Quality Strainer
Unfortunately, you are going to have to shell out a bit more than you would think to get a good sized high quality strainer.  Look for one that has a fine mesh inner layer surrounded and supported by a more open mesh of heavier gauge wire.  Also important is some kind of a hook opposite the handle so the strainer can be suspended over the sink to drain. To evaluate a potential strainer in the store, hold the sample firmly by the handle and punch, push and otherwise try to force the mesh to separate from the rim.  If everything holds together you have a winner, if not, return it to the store shelf and move on.  It seems silly, but really do it, a crummy strainer will make you miserable for months.  A good strainer can more or less take the place of a colander, a chinoise and a fry basket.


Don't Need : Knife Manufacturer "Knife Set"
As tempting as it is to put one of these on your wedding gift registry, don't do it. Sure, they are cheaper than buying all the knives separately, the only trouble being that you would never buy all the knives separately.  Firstly, you'd be getting a bunch you don't need, and second you wouldn't likely buy all your knives from the same manufacturer, nor should you.  Just because a company makes an O.K. Chef's knife doesn't mean they make a good Nakiri, and unless you work at a Prime Rib joint, you probably only use a carving knife a handful of times a year, does it need to be an expensive one?



Don't Need : Manufacturers "Cookware Set"
For all the same reasons as the knife "set" plus a few egregious bonus reasons. For one, there are too many pots and pans in the "set", how many hobs do you have on your stove anyway?  For another, does Calphalon or Macy's know what and how you cook?  Then how do they know what size and type of pan you need?  Let your culinary oeuvre be your guide in what you need.  For example, if you are cooking for more than two, their fry pans are usually too small and will crowd the food leading to a crummy result.



Need: A Kitchenaid Stand Mixer
I know there are other brands, but the Kitchenaid stand mixer has been the standard American mixer since 1919 and are readily available used.  They are powerful durable and simple., besides, you can grind sausage with one, find me a Braun that'll do that.  I concede that you can do without one (unless you bake a lot), but with the money you save from not buying the knife and cookware set, there is no reason to.


Need: Good Kitchen Shears
A good set of kitchen shears is the Leatherman of the kitchen, besides boning chicken, they can be used to open packages, cut truss wire and chew through blister packaging and open a beer.  I have had the Premax shears above forever, when I bought them I thought I was getting screwed, I was so so wrong - worth every penny.  It might seem old fashioned to have kitchen shears that come apart like Grannies, but because the halves separate for cleaning, there are no nooks and crannies bacteria can hide in, which is always important when dealing with chicken.  Don't monkey around with plastic "ergo" handles when you can have solid stainless.

Saturday, October 3, 2009

Thin Crust Pizza




If you like the cracker thin and crunchy pizza, check out this article at Cookography.
It's got a dough recipe and some techniques from Cooks Illustrated that produce perfect
thin crust pizza quickly and easily.  No lie

Tuesday, September 29, 2009

Don't Forget The Salt

"Salt is what makes things taste bad when it isn't in them."
 - Anonymous



A Salt Box Is A Thneed that Everyone Needs:
My good friend Genevieve turned me on to the simple joys of a salt box years ago and I am forever in her debt.  I keep the one pictured above right next to my stove and I have to say it is one of the handiest additions I have ever made to my kitchen. I got the one above from Fantes, which unfortunately doesn't carry it any more, but the Japanese Pottery outfit Bee House  makes a nice salt box with a wooden lid which you can get on line from Black Ink.


http://www.blackinkboston.com/store/show/19-xxx1-bee-house-saltbox


Special Bonus Rant:
Good old NaCl Salt has gotten a bad rap these days with the home cook which has resulted in a lot of unnecessarily bland food.  It is true that most folks have too much sodium in their diets, but it's probably not coming from salt added by the home cook.  A B.K. Chicken Caesar Salad had 1600 grams of Sodium, that's nearly a teaspoon of table salt !  Processed foods are loaded with sodium, wanna lower your sodium ? Stop eating processed crap, but for gods sake, allow me to have a bit of salt on my eggs, Mrs. Dash my ass.  

Sunday, September 27, 2009

The Pan Handle - Get a Grip




One of the most overlooked aspects of cookware design is the handle.  Most cookware gearheads focus on the material and construction quality of the pan.  While these are certainly important, too much focus on these aspects leads one to buy matching multi-ply unobtainium luxury pans in a set from the local dept. store. There is no doubt that these pans are decent pans and in capable hands will get the job done, but All-Clad and the others often blow the most crucial detail, the handle.  The handle is the user interface of the pan, and a crappy user interface leads to a crappy user experience and outcome.  To the average person, the handle on the sauce pan above looks all wrong, but in point of fact, it is the best I have ever used.  The extreme angle of this pan's handle is probably it's most noticeable and important feature and you will appreciate it on a crowded stove.  Why? well, the angle keeps the business end of the handle cool and out of the way of adjacent pans.  The angle also makes "flipping" sautees easier and allows you to tip the pan to monitor the cooking without putting your face over a hot stove or burning your knuckles.  The slight U shaped cross section of the handle makes for a comfortable and stable grip.  At 6' 4" 200lb's, I am a pretty big guy, but even I at times have trouble lifting at tilting a heavy and full commercial pan with one hand and a spatula with the other.  This is where this design really shines, it's shape and angle allow you to grip the lowest part of the handle from the top (with a pot holder!), resting the length of the handle under your forearm cantilevering the weight of the heavy pan.  That is a trick that just isn't possible with most other designs.  Additionally, most foodies equate riveted handles with quality and durability, and most of the cookware heavy hitters use rivets to attach their handles.  In reality a welded handle is every bit as strong as it's riveted counterpart and has one advantage, it's more sanitary.   The microscopic crevices of the rivets provide a home for bacteria whereas the smooth internal surfaces of a pan with a welded handle is much easier to sanitize.  The only disadvantage of this style of handle is that it is more difficult to store.  I'm not sure this style of handle is French in origin, but I do notice it most on traditional French pans.  In case you are wondering, the pan above is a Sitram "Catering" line stainless commercial flared sauce pan made in France.

Thursday, September 24, 2009

The Right Way To Hold a Chef's Knife


Yes, there is a "right" way to hold a chef's knife. Properly held, your knife will be much more stable, safe and comfortable - trust me, your fingertips will thank you. The photo below illustrates the proper way to hold a chef's knife as seen from the underside of the grip.

Notice that the knife handle rests in the nook between the meaty sides of your palm (touch your pinky and thumb together if your unsure of what I mean). This hold gives you much more strength when bearing down on the cutting surface while at the same time minimizing stress to the wrist. The other key part of the grip is to pinch the blade firmly between thumb and forefinger with the remaining fingers jammed up tight against the end of the handle or blade bolster (this one doesn't have a bolster). Holding the knife firmly in this manner gives your knife stability in all directions and will prevent it from slipping no matter how slick or greasy your hands might be, eliminating a major cause of cuts. Of course none of this does a damn bit of good if the fingers of your other hand are under the knife's business end, so always remember to grip the food in a birds claw grip leading with your knuckles as shown below. Though this is more awkward and difficult than proper knife grip, it really helps decrease wounds. This is so important that I once worked for a chef who would rap your hand with his knuckles HARD if he saw you holding the food fingertips first. The only thing the proper knife grip will do if you hold the food incorrectly is make sure you cut the finger neatly off, which also prevents it from getting in the way later, so you decide.






Tuesday, September 22, 2009

The Best Garlic Press On The Planet - Hands Down



Who gives a thought to their garlic press ? I do, and now you don't have to. No really, you can thank me later. Garlic is in virtually every recipe in the contemporary culinary oeuvre. Over the years I have vacillated between the smash and chop crew and the garlic press gang, never feeling strong enough to commit fully to either method. Every single garlic press I have ever owned has sucked in one way or another, frequently in more ways than one. They corroded, broke, were messy or inconvenient to clean and many just plain didn't work very well. So, I would smash and chop until overcome by the urge to get a new garlic press. Don't get me wrong, smashing and chopping is perfectly fine, but let's face it, unless you are making a bucket load of minced garlic, using an 8 inch chefs knife to mince three cloves of garlic is a PITA. But I digress, I have put all that behind me with my purchase of the stupid-expensive Rosle garlic press. What can I say, this thing just straight up works, load in the three cloves, squeeze, slice, rinse, boom - done.