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 PRASHAD

COOKING WITH
INDIAN MASTERS
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 PRASHAD
COOKING WITH
INDIAN MASTERS

J. Inder Singh Kalra

and
Pradeep Das Gupta

fAts\
ALLIED PUBLISHERS PVT. LIMITED
NEW DELHI MUMBAI KOLKATA LUCKNOW CHENNAI
NAGPUR BANGALORE HYDERABAD AHMEDABAD

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 ALLIED PUBLISHERS PRIVATE LIMITED
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First Published, 1986

First Indian Reprint, 1987
Thirty Fifth Reprint, 2015
© J. Inder Singh Kalra, 1986
ISBN : 81-7023-006-3

Published by Sunil Sachdev and printed by Ravi Sachdev at Allied Publishers Private Limited,
Printing Division, A-104 Mayapuri Phase II, New Delhi - 110064 05/2015
 To
My Mother,
Pritpal Kalra, Super Cook
and
My Father,
Brigadier Joginder Singh Kalra,
whose discerning taste
has made ours
a Family of Gourmets.
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Contents

PREFACE x!
INTRODUCTION Xiii
BASIC KITCHEN EQUIPMENT XV
CULINARY TERMS Xvi
SPICES XViii
A WORD ABOUT THE RECIPES XX
WEIGHTS AND MEASURES XXii
GLOSSARY XXVi

SALADS AND COLD FOOD 1-12

Jhinga Achaar Salaad, Murgh Salaad, Boti ka Salaad, Dakshini Salaad, Aloo Salaad
Anarkali, Kachumbar, Thandi Ajwaini Machchli, Murgh Reshmi, Murgh Lajawab, Raan-
E-Gulmarg, Khasta Kheema

TANDOORI AND OTHER KEBAB 13-26

Tandoori Lobster, Tandoori Pomfret, Tandoori Murgh, Murgh Tikka, Murgh Nawabi,
Shaan-E-Murgh, Murgh Malai, Kastoori Kebab, Reshmi Kebab, Galouti Kebab, Malai
Seekh, Dum ke Kebab, Shikampuri Kebab, Adraki Chaamp, Gosht Elaichi Pasanda, Paneer
ka Tikka

HANDI, KADHAI AND TAWA 27-56

HANDI—Murgh Navrattan, Methi Murgh, Achaar Korma, Gosht aur Vadi Biryani,
Kachchi Mirch ka Gosht, Khade Masale ka Gosht, Khumb Hara Dhania, Aloo Chutney-
walc, ‘Raspberry’ Mattar, Kale Moti Biryani
KA DHAI~—Kadhai Jhinga, Kadhai Murgh, Narial Ka Gosht, Ka Jhai Gosht Hussainee,
Dahi ka Kheema, Laziz Khumb, Makki-Khumb Masala, Kadhai Paneer, Kadhai Chholey,
Dal Kabila
TAWA—Jhinga Masala, Samudri Khazana Tak-a-Tak, Murgh Tawa Masala, Murgh
Galouti, Gosht Pasanda Paya Ras, Gosht Banjara, Gosht-ke-Khaje, Paneer Tawa Masala,
Pao-Bhaji, Dal Be-Aab

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 CONTENTS
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DUM PUKHT AND AVADH 57-78

DUM PUKHT—Gulnar Jalpari, Khuroos-e-Tursh, Khuroos-e-Potli, Ahd-e-Changezi,
Zaqand-e-Kebabi, Firdaus-e-Barein, Subz Gosht, Guncha-o-Bahar, Phaldari Kofta, Badal
Jaam

AVADH—Dudhia Bataer, Peethiwali Machchli, Murgh Mussalam, Murgh Wajid Ali,

Gosht Korma, Chandi Kaliyan, Nahari Gosht, Lazeez Paslian, Lauki Mussalam, Dhingri
Dulma

WEST COAST FOODS ; 79-90

GOA—Goa Prawn Masala, Prawn Balchao, Goa Curry, Galina Xacutti, Vindaloo, Sorpotel

PA RSEE--Kolmino Patio, Dhan-Dal Patio, Patrani Machchi, Kheema-Sali, Dhansak

PUNJAB 91-106
Amritsari Machchi, Mogewala Kukarh, Makhani Chooze, Patialashahi Meat, Meat Belli
Ram, Masalewalian Chaampan, Raarha Meat, Peshawari Chhole, Sarson ka Saag, Hara
Chholia te Paneer, Masaledar Karela, Bhartha, Kadhi, Punj Rattani Dal, Dal Amritsari, Dal
Makhani

RAJASTHAN 107-118
Maas ke Sule, Safed Maas, Lal Maas, Makki ka Soweta, Maas ki Kadhi, Khad, Amrud ki
Subzi, Mongodi ki Subzi, Besan ke Gatte, Moong Dal Khilma

SOUTH INIA 119-136

Iggaru ? »yya, Erha Kari, Kerala Nandu Masala, Pomfret Mappas, Kozhi Vartha Kari,
Milagu Kozhi Chettinad, Vendakka Masala Pachchadi, Bataani Kaal Kari, Murungakkai
Sambhar, Rasam, Bisi Bhela Huliyana
HYD®RABAD—Hyderabadi Murgh Korma, Murgh Nizami, Murgh Do-Piaza
Hyderabadi, Sofyani Biryani, Dalcha Gosht, Nawabi Tarkari Biryani, Subz Khada Masala

MITHA (Desserts) 137-152

Rabarhi, Shahi Tukrha, Kulfi, Rasmalai, Gulab Jamun, Zauq-e-Shahi, Phirni, Kesari Kheer,
Sevian, Shrikhand, Saeb ki Kheer, Gajjar ka Halwa, Ananas ka Muzaafar, Mushq-e-Tanjan
Murgh-ki-Burfi. Falooda

SOUTH INDIAN DESSERTS—Paruppu Payasam, Paal Poli

SNACKS 153-168
Jhinga Til Tinka, Jaan-e-Man, Chaurasia Kathi, Goolar Kebab, Aloo Pakora, Samosa,
Mathi, Kachori
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 CONTFNIS
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SOUTH INDIAN SNACKS—Dosai, Masala Dosai, Urla Kazhangu Bonda,. Idli,

Kanjeevaram Idli, Medu Vadai

PICKLES, CHUTNEYS AND MURABBA 169-182

‘Jhinga Achaar, Murgh Achaar, Aam ka Achaar, Bharvan Lal Mirch, Nimbu Achaar,
Khatta-Meetha Achaar, Aam ki Chutney, Gajjar ki Chutney, Sookhe Kale Angur ka
Murabba, Aamle ka Murabba, Gajjar ka Murabba, Adrak ka Murabba, Keri ki Launjee,
Saunth
SOUTH INDIAN CHUTNEYS—Thengai Thoviyal (Coconut Chutney), Takkali Thoviyal
(Fomato Chutney), Vengayam Thoviyal (Onion Chutney)

ROTI (BREADS) 183-196

Tandoori Roti, Aloo Paratha, Batti, Khameeri Roti, Poori, Naan, Bhatura, Kerala Paratha,
Bakarkhani, Sheermal, Varqui Paratha, Jalebi Paratha

APPENDICES 197-212
MASALAS—Garam Masala I, Garam Masala II, Aromatic Garam Masala, Chaat Masala,
Tandoori Chaat Masala, Dum ka Masala, Dhansak Masala, Sambhar Masala, Mulagapodi
GRAVIES—Basic Gravy I, Basic Gravy II, Makhani Gravy, Kadhai Gravy
PASTES—Boiled Onion Paste, Fried Onion Paste, Ginger Paste, Garlic Paste, Cashewnut
Paste, Coconut Paste, Poppy Seed Paste
MILK—Dahi (Yoghurt), Amrit Dahi, Kesari Dahi, Paneer, Chhenna, Khoya
TAMARIND PULP
COCONUT
HOW TO MAKE DESI GHEE FROM BUTTER
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 Xl

Preface
his book is a celebration of the best in Indian cooking. It is my intention to introduce the
foods of India through the culinary genius of some of the finest Chefs in the Nation. Over
the past 16 years it has been my privilege—and pleasure—to work with some of the best
known names in Indian cooking. When I discussed this project with them, they were
enthusiastic. The reason for such enthusiasm was very simple: even today many Indians regard
these artistes—no less—of the kitchen as nothing more than bawarchis, a term that rudely reduces
Chefs to the level of menials. The truth is that most of them are well-educated and command
salaries which are the envy of senior executives in other industries and businesses. And this is an
indication of their true worth.
There was another reason: while it was true that until a few years ago the best Indian food was
cooked in the homes, not any more.
Stung by constant criticism and the unchanging attitude of the multitudes toward their
profession—the Chefs decided to refurbish their image. The fact that every other book on Indian
cookery was written by a housewife rankled. While some of the books were excellent, most were of
a poor quality, inaccurate, incomplete and shoddy. Most important, they did not reflect the
changes that were taking place in the eateries around the country. They did not take into account
the fact that more and more Indians were dining out—a tribute to the quality of food being
prepared by the Chefs. They became my ‘co-authors’ and this book became the perfect ‘vehicle’
for them to put forth their own ideas on how Indian food should be prepared.
It is no secret that Indian cuisine is ‘in’ and the time ripe to introduce the ‘Grand Ol’ Men’ and the
‘Whiz Kids’ of the Indian kitchen: the present day Chefs, who are inventive and daring—ready to
try out anything new and different. The result has been a wonderful collection of recipes—old and
new—from their respective repertoires. My only regret has been my inability to incorporate a
chapter on “Game Cooking”. Maharaj Kumar Arvind Singh Mewar, my ‘co-author’ for the
section, and I were working on the recipes when his father, Maharana Bhagwat Singhji of Udaipur,
unexpectedly passed away. ASM and Lare now planning to doa book on Indian Game Cooking—
in tribute to the late Maharana Sahib.

To be sure, the recipes penned are not the usua! restaurant fayre, where it is not unusual to sacrifice
the palate to please the eye. The delicacies, though exotic, are easy-to-make and a veritable
housewife’s delight. We spent 14 months perfecting each and every recipe to make sure that
‘exotic’ was not misconstrued as ‘expensive’. Jt must be remembered that Indian exotica is
available outside India—in abundance and much cheaper than at home.
It is our hope that this quest for perfect-—and standardised—recipes would clear any lingering
te the excessive use of desi ghee (clarified butter) or
doubts about Indian cuisine. It is unfortunathat
vegetable fat and masalas (spices) by a handful of half-baked Chefs made ours an unsaleable food.
It was ‘rich’—read that as ‘fatty—and ‘spicy’—to be read ‘chilli hot’.
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 PREFACE
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Our food is ‘rich’, but not fatty’. It is true that we sometimes cook in excess fat, but the amazing
thing about our cuisine is thatthe coeking is deemed complete when the fat leaves the sides (of the
utensil in which the food is being cooked) or comes to the surface. In othér words, the ingredient
‘expels’ all fat when fully cooked. The excess fat merely eases the cooking process and is supposed
to be drained off before service. In fact, the drained fat or rogan can be re-used and inevitably
makes a better fai medium because of the flavour and aroma of spices it has acquired during the
cooking of the first delicacy. Which is not to say that it can be used again and again, but just once
again.
Similarly, our food is ‘spicy’, not ‘chilli hot’. We make use of our exotic spices for their special
flavour and aroma. The use of red chillies is at one’s own discretion. The recipes in the book are
‘light’ and ‘spicy’. The reader is at liberty to increase or decrease the chillies, according to her/his
taste.
Every recipe in this book has been tried and tested over and over again until we felt it was perfect. It
was penned when we were convinced that a housewife or an amateur Chef would be able to
reproduce it almost exactly. This exercise would not have been possible without Arvind Saraswat
and Richard Graham. Saraswat, a friend of nearly two decades, helped me with practically half the
book. Graham, who has become one in the short time I have known him, went to bat for me ina
moment of crisis.
It was a rewarding experience to work with Manjit S. Gill, Manu Mehta, N.P. Singhand S.P.S.
Chaud‘iury. These young Chefs patiently worked on each and every recipe with me until we were
fully satisfied. They practically made a Chef out of me—a ‘theoretical’ one anyway.
What can I say about my team-mate, Pradeep Das Gupta, except that it was a pleasure to work
with him and that his superb lenswork has added another dimension to this book.
My thanks to Camellia Punjabi, Divyabhanu S. Chawda, Biri Parmar, Subhir Bhowmik, Anil
Channa, Ravi Dubey, Sunil Chandra and Dinesh Khanna They provided encouragement and
support in more ways than one.! can hardly afford to forget my guru Khushwant Singh, and my
only other editor, Manohar Shyam Joshi— both gave me the opportunity to indulge in my love for
writing on good focd.
Thanks are ‘so aue te Abhimanyu Singh sor his vattwable suggestions and help in editing the
manuscript. » musi mention Manu Mehta onve again for he|ning with the proofs. But for him there
would have been some glaring—and terribly embarrassing—errors in this book.
Finally, my eternal gratitude to my family who accepted my odd hours without a fuss and took my
tantrums in their stride. To Lovjeet and Rominder for the long hours in the kitchen helping my
mother try out innumerable recipes. To Manvinder, who along with my father, took care of my
young sons, spending his entire vacation with our children.

NEW DELHI aww

August 15, 1986

(J. INDER SINGH KALRA)

 xiii

Introduction
With Arvind Saraswat

ike the inevitable flashback in the Hindi potboiler, a part of every Indian’s memory is
dedicated to a delicacy-by-delicacy, bite-by-bite, munch-by-munch recall of a lifetime of
meals. Food is an integral part of every Indian’s conversation. Get into one or eavesdrop
on almost any, and soon you will be treated to a graphic description of a meal eaten or
served anywhere from the night before to several years ago. Today, fortunately, there is much more
to talk about. |

Ours is a land of traditions. Despite the drawbacks that stem from them, great changes are taking
placein the Nation’s culinary life—changes evolutionary as well as revolutionary. One of the more
important recent ‘discoveries’ is its own wealth of culinary styles and regional foods. Whereas
once restaurants here took pride—misplaced, to be sure—in the ‘international’ cuisine they could
serve, they are now going into specialisation. To cater to changing tastes, many Chefs are reviving
styles like Handi, Dum Pukht, Kadhai and Tawa cooking. Others are specialising in regional—
Marwari, Goan, Hyderabadi, Parsee—foods. The effort is being duly lauded: the success of the
spate of féstivals being hosted in almost every city within—and many cities without—the country is
eloquent testimony to this fact.

To the uninitiated, Indian cooking seems like a jigsaw puzzle incapable of solution. It seems like a
complex problem, difficult to solve. The reason is simple: there is no recorded text for Indian
cuisine. Every genre of cooking has innumerable schools, each school more than one style, each
style its own Guru.

Recipes are hanJed down from generation to generation, but never put on record—only
memorized. As a consequence, every recipe is open to interpretation and there is no standard
recipe at all. Every great artiste of the kitchen—and there are quite a few—believes that the method
he adopts to make a delicacy is the correct one. Innovation is often mistaken for originality.

The recipes were never recorded because most of the Master Bawarchis, if we may coin the
designation, were and still are naranoid—fearful that someone will ‘pinch’ their recipes. This is the
only reason why India’s culinary art, despite thousands of years of refinement, is not as well known
as that of France or China.

Moreover, Indian cuisine varies from region to region. The taste, colour, texture, appearance and
aroma of the same delicacy changes every few kilometres. The resultant mayhem has_only led to
confusion—especially for the serious student of Indian cooking.
After nearly two decades of watching and working with Master Chefs, after having spent
thousands of hours on experimentation and after careful evaluation, we have concluded that
indian cooking is based on three major factors: the choice of ingredients, their proportions and
quantities, and the sequence of cooking.
 INTRODUCTION
XIV

CHOICE OF INGREDIENTS
Fo better cooking, it is imperative to use fresh and seasonal ingredients. Before that, however, it
is important to understand each and every ingredient individually—its salient qualities,
nourishment value, calorie count, shelf life, changes in its charactcristics with temperature
variations etc. Without this knowledge, it would be practically impossible to buy the correct
ingredients in the market. It is obvious, therefore, that buying right is half the battle.
For example, when buying leafy vegetables (spinach, coriander, mint) the leaves should be crisp
(and not withered), green (and not brownish) in colour, and ‘young’ (not overgrown, which would
make the stem thick and hard).
When buying meat (goat or lamb), to cite another example, it goes without saying that you will
need specific cuts for different dishes. However, the meat for every cut must be firm, lean and not
excessively fatty, ‘pinkish’ in colour, odourfree, of a fine texture and the bones must be porous and
of a pink hue. Weight of chicken acquires special importance for different delicacies.

PROPORTIONS AND QUANTITIES

he bane of Indian cooking has been the use of andaaza (literally, approximation from
experience) rather than exact proportions and quantities. Such approximation leads to
inconsistency. It is fer this reason that each ingredient should be used in the exact proportion and
quantity.
For example, excessive use of yoghurt in a dish will make it sour and unappetizing. Similarly, the
excessive use of chillies will ‘kill’ almost any curry.
To give you another example, in the making of Pulao, the proportion-is two parts of boiling water
for every part of rice. Any deviation from this cardinal principle would either make the rice sticky
(excess water) or leave the cereal raw (less water).

SEQUENCE OF COOKING
ch O give a preparation the right colour, texture, aroma and taste, the sequence of cooking plays a
significant role. Do not cut corners and take the easy way out. Very often, cooks tend to put all
the ingredients in cold fat simultaneously. The resultant disaster is a tasteless mess without any
colour or flavour.
If the recipe demands that the onions be fried until goiden brown, it would be absurd to introduce
the whole garam masala or fresh ground masala before the onions have achieved the requisite
colour. This would, doubtless, destroy the dish, and there will be the taste of raw onions in the
mouth.
Again, let’s take the example of Sambhar, the Southern lentil delicacy, where tamarind pulp is
added after the dal.is cooked and never before. If the sequence is not followed it is likely toend upa
bitter'witches’ brew. The dal will also stay undercooked.
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 ey

Basic Kitchen Equipment

ES cooking demands a range of pots and pans which is unthinkable in any other genre of
cooking. Regional cuisines require distinctive utensils which often cannot be used for cooking
foods from other areas. Consequently, the Indian kitchen is forced to keep a large inventory of
equipment. The most commonly used are:
Degchi/ Pateela/ Handi/ Deg—which all belong to the same family of pots and are traditionally
made of brass or copper. Now-a-days, the use of stainless steel and aluminium has also come into
vogue. The shape of the vessel may vary. The pateela has straight sides and a horizontal rim. The
bottom is slightly rounded. The handi, on the other hand, has a neck that is narrower than the base.
A deg is a bigger version of the handi.
Kadhai is a deep frying pan akin tc the Chinese wok. It is made from various metals and alloys, the
most common being iron and stainless steel.
Pauni is a perforated frying spoon.
Karhchchi is a ladle used for stirring.
Chimta is a tong.
Tawa or griddle is slightly concave and is used for making chappati, paratha, etc. It is made of iron.
Parat is a utensil in which dough is kneaded.
Chakla-Belan: Chakla is a small marble or wood platform, belan the rolling pin, usually made of
wood. They are used for rolling dough to make various Indian breads.
Sil-Batta—which is two pieces of stone, one a flat platform or sil, and the other—batta—which is
auch smaller and is akin to a rolling pin without the handles. The sil-batta is used to grind fresh
masala and other pastes.
Hamam-Dasta—or mortar-pestle—is used to pound dry masala.
Masala Dani—or spice box—contains the commonly used dry spices and is always kept by the
side of the stove or cooking range.
Plus the usual graters, sieves, strainers, knives, dattri (to chop leafy vegetables) and lemon squeezer.
XVi

Culinary Terms
pices may be the basis, blending the spices the essence, but by themselves they do not go to
make a complete dish. fhe heart and soul of India’s culinary art is to be able to combine the
two with the nitty-gritty of Indian cooking—dum, bhunao, talna, baghar, dhuanaar and
bhunnana. Each one of these ‘methods’ or a combination of two or three or even all may be
necessary to prepare a delicacy. It is important, therefore, to be able to understand the basic
principles of each.

um, literally steam, has been described as the ‘maturing of a prepared dish’. Dum, is the
forerunner of the modern day slow cooking. In the good old days, when handi cooking was the
vogue, the utensil was sealed with atta (whole-wheat flour) dough, to ensure that the moisture
stayed within, and put on smouldering coal. At the same time, some of the coal was placed on the
lid. This ensured even heat—from top and below. Today, the oven is used to perform the function
of providing even heai.
In this process, the main ingredient is cooked partially with all the accompaniments (in some cases,
some of the accompaniments are added only at the time of sealing) and then the utensil is covered
with.a lid, sealed with atta dough and then placed in the oven.
The food continues to cook in its own steam, so to speak. The advantage of giving dum is that since
the vapour cannot escape, the delicacy retains all the flavour and aroma.
Dum is usually given when, say, the meat has become sufficiently tender and the curry is nearly
ready. The fact that dum also brings the ghee or oil to the top helps to improve the appearance of
the dish.

eee is a combination of light stewing, sauteeing and stir frying. It is the process of
cooking over medium to high heat, adding small quantities of liquid—water or yoghurt—to
prevent the ingredients from sticking, which also makes it necessary to stir constantly. Almost
every recipe needs bhunao at some stage, very often at more than one stage.
At the outset it may be the spices and/or ingredients like onions, ginger, garlic, tomatoes, etc.,
which require bhunao. The process would not only extract the flavour of each of the spices and/ or
ingredients, but also ensure that they do not get burnt or remain raw. In fact, the masala must be
fully cooked.
Subsequently, the main ingredient may also require bhunao. This ensures that the initial cooking is
done in the ingredients’ own juices. The process is complete only when the fat leaves the masala or
the sides.
Bhunao is net a complete process in itself but a part of the process that helps to prepare a dish. It
usually requires the addition of substantial quantities of liquid to complete the cooking process.
FE
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 CULINARY TERMS
XVii
9Bests or Frying: In Indian cooking, frying is done in a kadhai and not a deep fat fryer. Not that
there is anything wrong in using a deep fat fryer. It is just that a kadhai has some advantages:
* The quantity of ghee or oil required is less, which makes it possible for the oil to be changed
regularly. Needless to say, any food fried in clean fat will look good in every way—colour,
appearance, flavour etc. Moreover, it would be free from the odour of oil that has been
repeatedly heated and sed.
* The shape of the kadhai not only allows larger quantities of food to be fried but also results in
even frying.

¥ Seuss Tarhka, Chhonkna or Tempering: Hot oil has an extraordinary ability to extract and
retain the essence, aroma and flavour of spices and herbs. This/process is performed either at
the beginning of cooking a dish (the whole garam masala is tempered before the rice is fried, when
making a Pulao) or after (cumin and asafoetida are tempered and then added to the lenti!, when
making dal). The salient features of baghar are:
* The ghee or the oil is brought to smoking point and then the heat is reduced.
* No water is ever added.
* The ingredients are usually added in rapid succession, rarely together.
* The crackling of the spice or spices or a change in their colour indicates that the process is
complete, unless fresh herbs and vegetables are also being used.
* The prepared tempering is poured sizzling hot over the cooked dish, except when a dish requires
pre-tempering.

huanaar or Smoking: Dhuan is smoke and to smoke dry meat delicacies is a simple, but
effective, process. It is usually done at the end of cooking. It requires charcoal, ghee and a dry
spice, usually cloves. The procedure is:
* Put glowing charcoal in a katori (small metal bowl) and place the katori in the centre of a handi
or casserole, and arrange the cooked meat around it.
* Drop the dry spice over the charcoal and pour a little clarified butter on top.
* Quickly cover the handi or casserole with a lid to enable the smoke to permeate the meat.

hunnana or Roasting: In Indian cooking, roasting is usually done in a tandoor, fired by

charcoal, which acts as a catalyst to impart a flavour that is unique in the world of cuisihe.
What happens is that the juices of the meats drip on the charcoal which sizzles and sends up billows
of smoke, giving the tandoor a smoking chamber effect. It is this smoke, that gives tandoori
cooking—kebab, breads. vegetables and paneer (Indian cottage cheese) a special aroma.
Kebab, paneer and vegetables, but not breads, can also be roasted on a sigri which is an openiron
grill. However, the flavour would be much milder.
The only imperative in roasting Indian style is that all foods, except breads, haye to be marinated.
XViil

Spices
I is no secret that spices, freshly ground each day, are the basis of Indian cooking. The fact that
a masalchi (spice grinder) spends most of his day grinding or pounding herbs and exotic spices
and his Chef might then take the rest of the day to geta dish pluperfect is what Indian cooking
is all about. All spices have their own characteristics and they are used in varying proportions
to make the correct combination for a particular delicacy. If you can perfect the art of blending
individual spices and herbs, it is possible to create a plethora of dishes, each distinctive and
different.
On the other hand, using the same combination or the pre-packaged garam masala or curry
powder can restrict your cooking because just about everything—vegetables, meats, lentils—
would taste the same. There is absolutely no concept—or place—for curry powder in Indian
cooking.
The magic of Indian cooking is in the blending of spices. It is important, therefore, to know which
spice is ideally suited to a particular food. For example, kalonji or black onion seeds is a must with
Naan, mace goes well with lamb, and seafood cannot be prepared without ajwain. Curry leaves are
an essential ingredient in Southern cooking and pickles are not pickles without rai (mustard seeds).
Also, certain herbs and spices can only be used during a particular season. For example, mace is
taboo in summer (it can lead to a nose bleed) whereas poppy seeds can really cool things during the
same months.
If you can grasp this aspect of Indian cooking, you can perform miracles with something as
mundane as the potato. You could make dishes—ranging from the simple to the exotic—
depending on how simple or exotic the masala you blend.
There are two types of masalas: dry masalas in powder form and wet masalas in the form of a
paste—ground with water, vinegar or oil.

SPICES AND DRY HERBS

English -Terms Hindi Terms English Terms Hindi Terms

— Ajwain Black Onion seeds Kalonji
Alum Fitkari Black Peppercorns Kali Mirch
Aromatic Ginger Saunth | Cinnamon Dalchini
Asafoetida Hing Cloves Laung
Bay Leaves Tejpatta Coriander Dhania
Black Cardamom Motti Elaichi Curry Leaves. Karipatta
Black Cumin Shahi Jeera or Dessicated Coconut Sukha Narial
Kala Jeera Fennel Saunf
a ot
SPICES
SS STS
a

SPICES AND DRY HERBS

English Terms Hindi Terms English Terms Hindi Terms

Fenugreek Kasoori Methi Rock Salt Kala Namak
Fenugreek seeds Methi Dana Saffron Kesar
Green Cardamom Chhotti Elaichi Saltpetre Kalmi Shora
Kokum Sesame seeds Kale Til, Safed Til
Mace Javitri (Beige and White)
Mango powder Amchur Star Anise Chakriphool
Mustard seeds Rai Tamarind Imli
Nutmeg Jaiphal Turmeric Haldi
Phoolpatri White Cardamom Safed Elaichi
Pomegranate seeds Anardana White Cumin Jeera
Poppy seeds Khus Khus White Peppercorns Safed Mirch
Red Chillies Lal Mirch Yellow Chillies Peeli Mirch |

NUTS AND DRY FRUITS |

English Terms Hindi Terms English Terms Hindi Terms
Almond Badaam Peanut Moongphali
Cashewnut Kaju Pine Nut Chilgoza
Date Khajur Pistachio Pista’
Dry Date Chhuara Raisin Kishmish
Dry Plum Jardaloo Sultana _ Munakka
Glazed Cherry Sunflower seeds Chironji
Melon seeds Magaz Walnut Akhrot

ESSENCES | SPECIAL GARNISHES

English Terms Hindi Terms English Terms Hindi Terms
Rose Water Gulab Gold Leaves Sone ka varq
Vetivier Kewda, Ittar Silver Leaves Chandi ka varq
XX

A Word About The Recipes

or this book, the Chefs and I conducted trials for over a year. Every recipe had to be gram
perfect and so every dish was tried out at least twice, usually more often. No recipe was
committed to paper until the Chefs were convinced that I could reproduce their ‘creation’
to perfection without any help from them. While éverything has been done to ensure that
the recipes are perfect, there is every chance of the timing—and timing alone—going awry. The
quality of ingredients has a considerable bearing on this aspect of cooking. Consequently, the
quantity of liquid used to cook a dish will vary. The recipes in this book were perfected with Indian
ingredients. To overcome the problem, we have provided the requisite indication of a process being
completed by the colour or consistency achieved.
To make cooking simple, the ingredients in this book have been listed in the order in which they
will be used, the exception being the main ingredient(s). For example, in any lamb delicacy, the
lamb itself would be used after most of the other ingredients have been cooked to make the
masala. However, since it is a lamb dish, it is listed as the first ingredient.
If the recipe, for example, says, ‘add onions, ginger and green chillies’, then these ingredients must
be added as suggested without any deviation in the order. Also, before adding each spice or herb,
stir the masala.
All weights are nett, not gross. If the recipe says 1 kg/2'4lb of lamb, weigh the ingredient after
cleaning and, if necessary, deboning. Similarly, if 15g/% cup of fresh coriander is required, it
should be weighed only after cleaning (removing the stalks), washing and chopping. In other
words, complete the PREPARATION and then weigh the ingredient, unless the preparation
includes cooking. In which case, weigh prior to cooking but after the initial preparation.
Whenever PREPARATION TIME exceeds two hours, it is likely to cause consternation. Rest
assured. Your individual attention is not required whilst a meat is kept in a marinade for 6 or 8 or
10 hours or even overnight as the case may be. Read the recipe at least twice before you start
cooking. This will enable you to decide which ingredient must be prepared first. Remember, it is
only the ingredients that are listed in the order of use, nor their preparation.
PREPARATION is as important as COOKING the delicacy. It is imperative that all the
ingredients, duly weighed, are placed in separate containers and in neat little rows—again in order
of use—before you start cooking. A split second’s delay in hunting for a spice could ruin the dish.
Almost every recipe calls for some paste or the other. It is best to make substantial quantities in
advance and refrigerate them (see section on Pastes).
The distinction between fresh and dry ingredients is very clear. ‘Coriander’ implies ‘fresh
coriander’, not ‘coriander powder’ or ‘coriander seeds’. ‘Kasoori Methi’ is ‘dried fenugreek leaves’.
‘Kashmiri Deghi Mirch’ is a‘red chilli powder’—the difference, is that it is milder than the common
‘red chilli powder’ and—like paprika—provides excellent coloration. ‘Cream’ should always be
‘fresh single cream’ unless otherwise specified and ‘yoghurt’ is always ‘full fat yoghurt’. ‘Hung
Yoghurt’ is curd without whey. It is hung in muslin to allow the whey to ooze out.
LLL LL LL LLC CE
arrrarrrrr eranrence nrrrrrercccercereeeeeee cere SS
 A WORD ABOUT THE RECIPES
XXl

The ‘oil’ and ‘ghee’ are refined fats, not raw. ‘Corn oil’ or any other refined fat medium will make a
suitable alternative.
Each recipe yields four (4) full portions (unless otherwise specified) and, if served as the main—and
only—course, the meal requires no additional dishes besides accompaniments like salad, Raita,
rice or Indian bread, papad and pickle or chutney. If the meal is more elaborate—two, three or
even four dishes—then prepare half the portions or invite more people. The full portions can easily
be shared by more people.
When preparing a menu, never take two dishes from the same style of cooking. For example, two
dishes from the Kadhai or Tawa sections may end up tasting almost the same. You could, however,
take any number of dishes from the Handi and Dum Pukht sections or for that matter the regional
cuisines, but it is not advisable. The only exception is the Kebab section and that too if you have
planned a barbeque in your backyard.
An ideal Indian menu should start with kebab or one of the garde manger delicacies, followed bya
fish or chicken dish, a lamb dish, a vegetable, and a lentil along with the usual accompaniments. Be
sure to draw a balance between the gravy and the dry dishes, as also the colour of the dishes.
XXil

Weights & Measures

With Manu Mehta

Te recipes in this book were perfected in the metric, measures. The quantities, however, are
given in:both metric and American measures. As it is difficult to exactly convert from one
to the other, adjustments have been made ensuring that the taste would not vary in the
slightest. 1

Fortunately, in Indian cooking a few extra grams of onions or ginger or tomatoes will not make
much of a difference. Nor would a few extra millilitres of water. Nevertheless, whenever the recipe
‘has demanded exactness, it has been provided. For example, the reader will occasionally come
across something like 3 cups + 4 tsp.

The following chart should help with the conversions:

1 Gram = 0.035 ounces

10 Grams = 0.35 ounces
100 Grams -- 3.5 ounces
200 Grams = 7.0 ounces

To convert grams into ounces; multiply the grams by 0.035.

To give convenient working equivalents, the metric measures have been rounded off into units of 5
or 25 (see the following chart):

20/30
50/60
75/90
100/120
150
175
200
225
250
275/290
 WEIGHTS AND MEASURES
Cee a > ¢ |||

For more convenient conversions, the following chart will be useful:

1 tsp (teaspoon) = Sg
2 tsp = 10g
3 tsp = 5g
1 Tbs (tablespoon) = I5g
1 Tbs = 3 tsp or 4 oz
Ys cup = 4 Tbs or 2 oz
’ cup = 5 Tbs + | tsp
4 cup = 8 Tbs or 4 oz
24 cup = 10 Tbs + 2 tsp
¥% cup = 12 Tbs or 6 oz
I cup = 16 Tbs or 8 oz
1 cup (liquid measure) = 237 ml
1 oz (dry measure) = 28.352
16 oz (dry measure) = 1 lb
16 oz (liquid measure) 2 cups or | pint
2 pints (liquid measure) 4 cups or | quart

To convert the commonly used ingredients in this book, the following chart will be a convenient
guide:

VEGETABLES

Coriander (chopped)

Green Peas (shelled)

Mint (chopped)

Mushrooms
Onions (chopped, diced) 1 cup 170g
Potatoes (diced, cubes) 1 cup 150g
Tomatoes (chopped)

All dals
All dry beans 1 cup 200g
All gram (White, Bengal, etc.)

CEREALS

Rice
Semolina
 WEIGHTS AND MEASURES
XXIV

Atta (whole-wheat flour)

Cornflour
Gramflour
Flour of roasted Channa dal
Flour (all purpose)
Breadcrumbs

Cheddar Cheese (grated)

Cream
Milk
Yoghurt
Hung Yoghurt

FATS & OILS

Desi Ghee or Clarified Butter 1 cup 225g

1 Tbs 15g
Ghee or Vegetable Fat | cup 200g
| Tbs 124g
White Butter 1 cup 225g
1 Tbs 15g
Groundnut Oil I cup 220ml
1 Tbs 15m]
Mustard Oil 1 cup 220ml
1 Tbs 15m]

SUGAR & SPICE

Castor (confectioner’s) Sugar 1 cup 120g
| Tbs 8g
Granulated Sugar 1 cup 200g
1 Tbs 12g
Ajwain 1 tsp 2.5g
1 Tbs 7.5g
Black Onion seeds (Kalonji) I tsp 3.3g
| Tbs 10.0g
Black Peppercorns 1 tsp 3.3g
1 Tbs 10.0g
Coriander seeds 1 tsp 2.0g
1 Tbs 6.0g
Cumin seeds ] tsp 3.0g
1 Tbs 9.0g
 WEIGHTS AND MEASURES
XXV

Fennel seeds I tsp : | 2.52 :

1 Tbs (oy
Fenugreek seeds 1 tsp 4.52
Kasoori Methi | Tbs 13.58
(Dry Fenugreek Leaves, broiled
and powdered) 1 Tbs 12g
Melon seeds 1 tsp ey
1 Tbs 10.0g
Pomegranate seeds I tsp 3.3g
1 Tbs 10.0g
Poppy seeds 1 tsp 3.0g
i 1 Tbs 9.0g
Sesame seeds 1 tsp sg
1 Tbs 10.5g
Sunflower seeds 1 tsp 3.3g
1 Tbs 10.0g
All powdered spices I tsp 5g

DRY FRUITS & NUTS

Almonds (blanched, peeled) | cup _140g

Cashewnuts (peeled) 1 cup 140g
Coconut (grated) 1 cup 80g
Coconut (dessicated) 1 cup 60g
Peanuts (shelled, peeled) 1 cup 140g
Pistachio (blanched, peeled) 1 cup 140g
Raisins | cup 145g
Walnuts (chopped)

Boiled Onion paste

Cashewnut paste
Coconut paste
Fried Onion paste
Garlic paste/ Ginger paste

Lemon juice 1 cup 240m!

Water 1 cup 240ml
XXVI

Glossary
Atta: Whole-wheat flour.
Besan: Channa dal flour or gramtlour.
Bharwaan: Stuffed.
Biryani: Rice dish cooked with spiced lamb or chicken—usually on festive occasions.
Boti: Boneless cubes of meat.
Falooda: A transparent vermicelli, used as a garnish with Kulfi, the creamy Indian ice-
cream (see recipe in the Dessert section).
Kari: Tamil word for sauce and, probably, the origin for the word ‘curry’.
Katori: Small metal (silver, brass, stainless steel) bowl.
Kebab: Meats (fish, chicken and lamb), usually skewered (whole, cubed or minced)
and grilled in a tandoor or over an openiron grill. Also, shallow fried (minced)
on a griddle (e.g. Shammi Kebab, Galouti, Rakhand-e- Kebabi).
Kheema: Minced lamb, raw or cooked.
Khansamah: A cook. The term came into vogue in the days of the Raj.
Khichri: A delicately spiced rice and dal preparation, popular as an infant feed and asan
easily digested meal when suffering from a stomach disorder.
Kofta: Meat balls or vegetable balls.
Masalchi: A grinder of masalas—dry and wet.
Paan: Betel leaf eaten with a stuffing of supari (betel nut), quicklime paste, katechu
paste, gulukand (rose-petal preserve), fennel, grated coconut, occasionally
zarda (tobacco), and garnished with silver varg—digestive to some,
aphrodisiac to others.
Papad: Wafer-thin discs prepared from lentils, spiced with black peppercorns and
asafoetida.
Pulao: Rice, gently simmered with fat and vegetables or lamb or, occasionally, a spice
like cumin.
Raita: Yoghurt whisked and garnished with vegetables or deep-fried corn-niblet size
besan (gramflour) dumplings.
Shikora: Small unglazed earthenware bowl.
Tikka: Shashlik-sized chunks of meat, usually chicken, which can be skewered before
roasting in the tandoor.
 SALADS
oy
COLD FOOD
With Jerome Gomes

here are many things that a number of Indians are loath to accept. The concept of cold
food, for example, is still anathema. The reason has everything to do with the fact that
until recently refrigerators were not considered a necessity. Our climate leads to instant
degeneration of food. Besides, habits formed over the centuries are hard to change and an
indication of this is our continuing mistrust of frozen foods.
What surprised the author was that many chefs were reluctant to even discuss the subject of Indian
garde manger. Why, many laughed—to my face—when | proposed that they at least try out some
of the salads and cold cuts I had in mind. The more they rejected the idea, the more determined |
became to see it succeed. After innumerable rejections, the concept of the Indian ‘cold kitchen’

JEROME Gomes: Enthusiastic and brimming with ideas, the

+ versatile Gomes is Senior Chef at The Oberoi, New Delhi.
| Not only is he a skilled Garde Manger man—he added his
own highly inventive: touches to the recipes in this
section—but is also a fine exponent of the art of French
cooking.
 SALADS & COLD FOOD
2
became a fixation. The result is this humble contribution to Indian cuisine—with a lot of help from
my ‘co-authors’ for this section.
Salads presented few problems. We wanted to be different from the usual French and Italian
dressings. We did not want our dressings to be mayonnaise-based. It is an old adage that the soul of
a salad is a good oil. Westerners generally use olive oil. What a pity! They haven’t reckoned with
mustard oil, coconut oil or groundnut oil.
For Jhinga Achaar Salaad, we chose mustard oil, which is most commonly used to make pickles.
When we realised that it would take many days to pickle prawns, we decided to use the oil and
masala of the commercially packed mango or mixed pickle (which is available in every grocery
store) in combination with groundnut oil and lemon juice, We used coconut oil, with Sambhar
Masala and lemon juice to prepare the dressing for Dakshini Salaad, which owes its origin to the
traditional Southern staples: Sambhar Rice and Lemon Rice.
The major problem we faced in our endeavour to create cold cuts was how to blend Indian exotica
with an hitherto Occidental concept. In the case of the Raan-e-Gulmarg, the problem was not so
much the spicing as the fact that it had to be moist—not dry—when served cold and that too
without losing its shape. So, instead of cooking it in the tandoor over charcoal, the leg was roasted
in the oven. Remember, in the tandoor, the fat just drips off and the jus dries up.
There was one other problem we perceived: presentation. We wondered how to present the cold
cuts. That was before we commenced our ‘experiment’. We are happy to report that we decided to
forego decoration (a major aspect of Western garde manger) and, instead, to emphasise the
ingredients used, their colours and their flavours and aromas.

Assisted by Mohan Lal Thakur and Bijoy K. Joseph

 JHINGA ACHAAR SALAAD
3

JHINGA ACHAAR SALAAD INGREDIENTS

400g/14 oz Prawns
A piquant salad that can be used as a cocktail snack as well. (medium size)
30g/2 Tbs Groundnut Oil

PREPARATION 25g/1 oz Tomato Puree

100g/2/,cup Capsicum
THE PRAWNS: Shell, devein, wash and pat dry. 1008/24 cup Onions
THE VEGETABLES: Remove stems, wash, cut capsicum into halves,
The Dressing
deseed and make |4-inch dices. Peel, wash and cut onions into '4-inch
75m1/5 Tbs Lemon juice
dices.
5Uni'/3 Tbs Mustard Oil*
THE DRESSING: Mix lemon juice and mustard oil with achaar masala. 45g/3 Tbs Achaar Masala**
Adjust the seasoning.
Seasoning SCS
THE GARNISH: Wash and cut lemons and tomatoes into wedges. Remove
stems, wash, slit and deseed green chillies. Clean, wash and chop The Garnish
coriander. 1 Lemon
2 Tomatoes (medium size)
2 Green Chillies
COOKING
10g/2
Coriander
Tbs
Heat oil in a kadhai, add prawns and saute over medium heat for 3-4
minutes. Add tomato puree and stir for a minute. Remove and cool.
Then add the diced vegetables, toss and refrigerate.

TO SERVE

Transfer prawns to a salad bowl, pour on the dressing and mix gently Serves: 4
with a wooden fork. Garnish with lemons, tomatoes and green chillies. Preparation time: 45 minutes
Sprinkle coriander on top. Serve chilled. Cooking time: 8-9 minutes

*Use oil in which mango pickle is preserved.

**The masala, too, must come from the mango pickle jar. A bit of chopped mango
pickle itself could make the salad a little sharper.

MURGH SALAAD INGREDIENTS

600g/ 1'/3lb Murgh Tandoori*

here is a common fallacy that Tandoori Chicken cannot be eaten 2508 /1
cup Tomato es
cold. On the contrary, it is the basis for this magnificent salad. 125g/34 cup Onions
2 Green Chillies

PREPARATION 10g/2
Coriander
Tbs

THE CHICKEN: Debone and cut into %-inch dices. Refrigerate. —Continued

FASTEST SET BI EIS DDE SED TSS LECT EDD AS PLETE LEE EDO BLES
 BOTI KA SALAAD
4

The Dressing THE VEGETABLES: Wash and cut tomatoes into quarters, deseed and
45ml1/3 Tbs Lemon juice make '4-inch dices. Peel, wash and cut onions into 4-inch dices.
3g/4 tsp Mace and Green Remove stems, wash, slit, deseed and chop green chillies. Clean, wash
Cardamom powder and chop coriander.
10g/2 tsp Chaat Masala** THE DRESSING: Mix lemon juice, mace and cardamom powder and
90ml1/6 Tbs Groundnut Oil chaat masala with groundnut oil in a bowl. Adjust the seasoning.
Seasoning THE GARNISH: Wash and cut tomatoes into quarters. Wash and cut
lemon into wedges. Scrape, wash and cut ginger into juliennes, soak in
The Garnish
the lemon juice.
2 Tomatoes (medium size)
ifemon ie.
20g/2 Tbs Ginger TO SERVE
30m1/2
Tbs Lemon juice
Mix the vegetables with the chicken ina salad bowl, pour on the dressing
Serves: 4 and toss. Garnish with tomato quarters, lemon wedges and sprinkle
Preparation time: 30 minutes ginger juliennes on top. Serve chilled.
(Plus time taken to roast and
cool Murgh Tandoori) *See Section on Kebab.
**See Section on Masalas.

INGREDIENTS
BOTI KA SALAAD
400g/14 oz Boti Kebab*
100g/3'4oz Button Onions Y et another Tandoori salad, done in a clove-flavoured mint and
100g/3'4oz Tomatoes yoghurt dressing.
2Green Chillies
The Dressing PREPARATION
225g/ 1 cup Yoghurt
208/14 |cup Mint THE BOTI: Cut into %-inch dices and refrigerate.
30m1/2 Tbs Lemon juice THE VEGETABLES: Peel, wash and cut onions into roundels to make
3g/'4 tsp Clove powder rings. Wash and cut tomatoes into quarters, deseed and make !4-inch
Seasoning dices. Remove stems, wash, slit, deseed and chop green chillies.
THE DRESSING: Hang the yoghurt in muslin for | hour to remove the
whey, then whisk in a bowl. Clean, wash, finely chop mint and mix with
the yoghurt. Add lemon juice and clove powder, mix well. Adjust the
seasoning.
——nnn eee
———

TO SERVE
Serves: 4
Preparation time: 30 minutes
(Plus time taken to roast and Mix the vegetables with the Boti in a salad bowl, pour on the dressing
cool Boti Kebab) and toss well. Serve chilled.
eeeeeeoo—————ee—e—e—=—=—E—e—EeeeeEEEEEE

*See section on Kebab (Gosht Pasanda).

a a a a ee
naan
eee
 DAKSHINI SALAAD
5

DAKSHINI SALAAD INGREDIENTS

100g/'4 cup Rice
BA eee aounss coconut-and-rice salad, can be served as an 100g/1% cups Coconut
appetizer or as an accompaniment. If ever you have some left over
boiled rice, don’t throw it away—use it to make the Dakshini. The Drewing

90m1/6 Tbs Coconut Oil

PREPARATION 8 Curry Leaves
\0g/2 tsp Sambhar Masala*
THE RICE: Pick, wash in running water, soak for 30 minutes, drain, 3g/4tsp Turmeric
replenish with fresh water and boil until cooked. Drain and cool. 45ml/3
Tbs Lemon juice _
THE COCONUT: Remove the brown skin and cut into fine juliennes. Seasoning ssS~S
THE DRESSING: Wash curry leaves. Heat oil in a kadhai, remove from :
heat, add curry leaves, stir, add Sambhar masala and turmeric, stir. The Garnish
Transfer to a bowl, cool and add lemon juice, whisk. Adjust the 2 Tomatoes (medium size)
seasoning. 50g Yscup Roasted Peanuts
THE GARNISH: Wash and cut tomatoes into roundels. 10g/4 tsp Dessicated
Coconut

TO SERVE

Mix rice and coconut in a salad bowl, pour on the dressing and toss.
Garnish with tomatoes on the sides and sprinkle roasted peanuts and _ Serves: 4
dessicated coconut on top. Serve chilled. Preparation
time: 55minutes

*See section on Masalas.

ALOO-SALAAD ANARKALI INGREDIENTS

600g/ 11/3 lb Potatoes
A tartly spiced potato salad garnished with fresh pomegranate. ‘150g/34 cup Bengal Gram
A pinch Soda bi-carb
Salt
PREPARATION 50g//3 cup Pomegranate

THE POTATOES: Boil, cool, peel and cut into %-inch cubes. The Dressing
THEGRAM: Soak overnight ina handi, drain, replenish with fresh water, 75m1/5 Tbs Lemon juice
add soda bi-carb and salt, boil until tender. 10g/2 tsp Cumin powder
THE POMEGRANATE: Shell and reserve half of the fruit for garnish. 10g/2 tsp Chaat Masala*
THE DRESSING: Mix lemon juice, cumin powder and chaat masala with — 75ml/5 Tbs Groundnut Oil
groundnut oil. Adjust the seasoning. Seasoning
THE GARNISH: Wash the mint leaves. Peel, wash and cut onions into —Continued
'
;
roundels to make rings. Wash and cut tomatoes into roundels.
 ALOO-SALAAD ANARKALI
6
The Garnish
20g/'/3cup Mint Leaves TO SERVE
2 Onions (small size)
2 Tomatoes (medium size) Mix potatoes, gram and pomegranate in a glass bowl, pour on the
dressing and toss gently. Arrange onions and tomatoes on the sides,
Serves: 4 : sprinkle the reserved pomegranate and mint leaves on top. Serve chilled.
Preparation time: 50 minutes
*See section on Masalas.

INGREDIENTS
300g/ 11 oz Onions
KACHUMBAR
he common Indian tossed salad, served with the main meal or asa
200g/7 oz Tomatoes
garnish with innumerable delicacies.
150g/5 oz Cucumber
4 Green Chillies
5g/1 Tbs Mint PREPARATION
10g/2 Tbs Coriander
60m1/4 Tbs Lemon juice THE VEGETABLES: Peel, wash and roughly chop onions. Wash, cut
Seasoning tomatoes into quarters, deseed and roughly chop. Peel and cut
1 Lemon cucumber into quarters, deseed and roughly chop. Remove stems, wash,
slit, deseed and chop green chillies. Clean, wash and chop mint and
coriander. Wash and cut lemon into wedges.

TO SERVE

Serves: 4 Mix all the vegetables in a salad bowl and pour on the lemon juice.
Preparation time:
20 minutes © Adjust the seasoning. Serve chilled with lemon wedges.

INGREDIENTS THANDI AJWAINI MACHCHLI

2kg/4'4 Ib Fish fillet
he inspiration for this cold fish delicacy came from Amrritsari
2252/'4 lb Prawns
Machchli (see Punjab Section)—hence the exclusive use of ajwain.
(large size)
15g/2 Tbs Ajwain
10g/2 tsp Kashmiri Deghi PREPARATION
Mirch powder
50g/3. Tbs Garlic paste THE FISH: Clean, wash, pat dry and cut into small chunks, Mix ajwain
160g/ 1 cup Onions and Deghi Mirch with garlic paste and rub the chunks with this mixture.
Groundnut Oil to saute
THE PRAWNS: Shell, devein and cut into '4-inch cubes. Heat oil ima
prawns and onions
kadhai, saute over medium heat for 5 minutes, remove, discard the fat,
cool and refrigerate.
Sa
 THANDI AJWAINI MACHCHLI
‘i

THE ONIONS: Peel, wash and finely chop. Heat oilinakadhai,saute over 6 Eggs
medium heat until transparent, remove, discard the fat and cool. 20g//3 cup Coriander
THE MINCE: Mince the marinated fish and sauteed onions twice or thrice —_Seasoning
in a mincer. 160ml/?/4 cup Cream
THE EGGS: Separate the whites and discard the yolks. Beat the whites. The Garnish
(Use eggs out of the refrigerator.)
200g/7 oz Carrots
THE CORIANDER: Clean, wash, chop, put in a napkin and squeeze dry. 3 Lemons
(Ensure it is completely devoid of moisture.)
THE CREAM: Whip in a blender.
THE MOUSSE: Put the mince in a blender, add the beaten egg whites ina
steady trickle and make a mousse. Transfer the mousse to a bowl, add
the sauteed prawns, coriander and seasoning, mix well. Fold in whipped
cream. Divide into 2 equal portions.
THE GARNISH: Peel, wash and cut carrots into fine juliennes. Wash and
cut lemons into wedges.
THE OVEN: Pre-heat to 230°F.

COOKING

Grease two moulds, fill each with a portion of the mousse, compress,
cover, place in a water bath and bake in the pre-heated oven for 45-50
minutes. Remove, cool and refrigerate overnight.

FINISHING

Demould, slice (!4-inch thick), arrange ona silver platter and refrigerate
for 30 minutes.

Serves:10 (2 moulds of 1kg/

TO SERVE 2% Ib each)
Preparation time: | hour
Remove the platter from the refrigerator, garnish and serve cold. Cooking time: 45-50 minutes

Note: Thandi Ajwaini Machchli can also be prepared en croute: use the Khasta
Kheema dough, replacing cumin seeds with ajwain seeds.

MURGH RESHMI NORE DIENT?

ay : : ; 1.2kg/22Alb Chicken
saffron-flavoured chicken roll, spiced with pepper and nutmeg. EEE
Se
—-Contirued
 MURGH RESHMI
8
ET
6 Chicken Fillet
3 Eggs PREPARATION
15g/4!4 tsp Black Peppercoris
2g/4tsp Saffron THE CHICKEN: Clean, remove the skin, debone and. cut into small
15ml/1 Tbs Milk chunks. Mince the chunks twice or thrice in a mincer, spread the fine
8g/ 114 tsp Nutmeg powder mince on a flat tray and put it in the freezer for an hour.
5g/1 tsp Garam Masala _ THE CHICKEN FILLET: Remove sinews and cut into strips. Season and
Sai-~——- refrigerate.
150ml/%4
cup Cream THE PEPPER: Pound with a pestle.
Slitres/5
qrt Clear THE SAFFRON: Dissolve half the flakes in warm milk.
Chicken Stock
THE CREAM: Whip in a blender.
4Cardamom”
Black
2 Bay Leaves
THE MOUSSE: Put the frozen mince in a blender, add eggs (one ata time)
and make a mousse. Transfer the mousse to a bowl, add pepper. the
The Garnish dissolved saffron, nutmeg, garam masala and salt, mix well. Fold in the
4 Tomatoes (medium size) whipped cream.
4 Eggs THE GARNISH: Wash and cut tomatoes into wedges. Hard boil eggs,
cool, shell and quarter.

ASSEMBLING

Place a wet napkin on the table, cover with silver foil cut to the same size,
spread the mousse on the foil, arrange the chicken strips in three rows,
sprinkle the remaining saffron flakes and make a roll (approx 3-inch
diameter). Wrap the foil and the napkin tightly around the roll. Firmly
tie the ends with a string.

COOKING

Heat stock in a large handi, add cardamom and bay leaves, bring to a
boil, reduce to low heat, immerse the wrapped roll in the stock and
simmer for 45 minutes. Remove, untie and unwrap the napkin and the
foil, retie firmly and cool in the stock. Remove, transfer to a tray and
refrigerate overnight.

FINISHING

Untie and unwrap the napkin and the foil, slice the roll (as thin as
possible), arrange on a silver platter and refrigerate for 30 minutes.

Serves: 10 (i mould of
Ikg/2% Ib) TO SERVE
Preparation time: 1:45 hours
Cooking time: 50 minutes Remove the platter from the refrigerator, garnish and serve cold.
ee
 MURGH LAJAWAB
9

MURGH LAJAWAB INGREDIENTS

12 Chicken Breasts
( pe breasts of chicken dressed in a creamy mace ‘n’ cardamom- (with bone)
flavoured! sauce.
60g/%
cup Yoghurt
3g/%4 tsp Garam Masala
PREPARATION 3g/'4 tsp Yellow Chilli powder
3g/'4
Turmeric
tsp
THE CHICKEN BREASTS: Clean, but retain the skin. Whisk yoghurt ina Salt
bowl, add garam masala, yellow chillies, turmeric and salt, mix well. Clear Chicken Stock to
Rub the breasts with this marinade and keep aside for 45 minutes. simmer chicken
10 Green Cardamom
Put stock in a large, flat-bottomed handi or pan, add cardamom, cloves
and bay leaf, bring to a boil and then simmer until there is just enough to 5 Cloves~
cover the chicken. Arrange the marinated breasts, side-by-side, in the 1Leaf
Bay
stock and simmer until tender (approx 10-15 minutes). Remove, cool, The Sauce
remove the skin and the bone carefully, ensuring that the surface 35g/7 tsp Butter
remains smooth. Trim the edges, transfer to a wire-rack and refrigerate.
25g/3
Gramflour
Tbs
THE SAUCE: Melt butter in a kadhai, add gramflour and flour and 20g/7'4 tsp Flour
bhunno over low heat until light brown. Add garam masala, yellow
chillies and turmeric, stir. Whisk in stock and simmer for 15 minutes.
ig)4tspGaram Masala
Adjust the seasoning. Then add mace and cardamom powder, stir and 3g/'% tsp Yellow Chilli powder
remove. Strain into a saucepan and cool. 3g/4
Turmeric
tsp
400ml1/ 124 cups Clear
Soak gelatin in tap water (approx 240ml/ 1 cup) for 10 minutes and then Chicken Stock
stir over a double boiler until it melts and a clear solution is obtained.
Salt
Strain through fine muslin and add to the sauce, stir. Put some ice ina
3g/4 tsp Mace and Green
large pan and cool the sauce until it shows signs of sticking to the sides of
Cardamom powder
the sauce pan. Whip cream and fold into the sauce.
80g/3 oz Gelatin powder
100m1/7 Tbs Cream
ASSEMBLING

Keep the breasts on the wire-rack, place a tray below to collect the excess
sauce and pour on the requisite quantity of the sauce over each breast in
one go to get a smooth coat. (Coat only on one side.) Refrigerate for 30
minutes.

TO SERVE

Remove the rack from the refrigerator, carefully transfer the breasts toa Serves: 6
silver platter and serve cold with a garnish of your choice. Preparation time: 2:15 hours
RAAN-E-GULMARG

INGREDIENTS
RAAN-E-GULMARG
2 Legs of Lamb (Ikg/2'% Ib
each) ln peat as cold leg of lamb, spiced with Shahi Jeera and
| Egg (for eggwash) coriander, and garnished with cashewnuts.
Groundnut oil to baste Raan
and grease roasting tray
PREPARATION
Clear Lamb Stock to
partially immerse lamb
THE LAMB LEGS: Clean, remove the thigh and blade bones carefully by
legs while roasting
scraping along them, without cutting from the side, to make a pocket for
The Marination stuffing (see photographs).
225g/1 cup Yoghurt THE MARINATION: Whisk yoghurt in a bowl. Pound pepper with a
50g/3 Tbs Garlic paste pestle. Mix pepper and the remaining ingredients with the yoghurt and
50g/3 Tbs Ginger paste _ rub the lamb legs with this mixture. Refrigerate for 3 hours.
10g/1 Tbs Black Peppercorns THE FILLING: Clean, debone and cut lamb into small chunks. Scrape,
5z/ 1 tsp Black Cumin powder wash and roughly chop ginger. Mince the lamb and ginger twice or
3g) 4 tsp Clove powder thrice in a mincer, spread the fine mince on a flat tray and put it in the
10g/2 tsp Coriander powder freezer for an hour. Clean, wash and chop mint. Remove stems, wash,
5g) 1 tsp
Masala
Garam _ slit, deseed and chop green chillies. Soak cashewnuts in water, drain.
Put the frozen mince in a blender, add eggs (one-at-a-time) and salt,
Salt
make a mousse. Transfer the mousse to a bowl, add the remaining
ingredients and mix well. Divide into 2 equal portions. ;
The Filling THE STUFFING: Beat the egg and give an egg wash inside the pocket of
450g/1 lb Lamb each leg. Stuffa portion ofthe filling in each of the lamb legs and witha
20g/2 Tbs Ginger trussing needle and string, stitch the open end and knot the ends of the
3 Eggs string securely. Bind each stuffed leg with string to retain the shape whilst
Salt cooking. Baste the legs and prick with a needle.
5g/ 1tsp Garam Masala — THE GARNISH: Peel, wash and cut onions into roundels to make rings.
Wash and cut lemons into wedges.
THE OVEN: Pre-heat to 250°F.
 KHASTA KHEEMA
I]
22/3 tsp Nutmeg powder
COOKING 8g/2 Tbs Mint
2 Green Chillies
Grease a baking tray, arrange the legs in it, add enough stock to immerse 25g/1 oz Cashewnuts
one-third of the legs and roast in the pre-heated oven for 90 minutes. Baste (split)
at regular intervals, using the stock, and turn occasionally for even
colouring. Remove, untie the binding string, snip off the stitching and The Garnish
cool the legs in the stock. When cool, rernove from the stock, transfer
to 4 Onions (medium size)
a tray and refrigerate overnight. 3 Lemons

ASSEMBLING

Slice the lamb ('4-inch thick), arrange ona silver platter and refrigerate
for 30 minutes.

TO SERVE Serves: 10
Preparation time: 3:25 hours
Remove the-platter from the refrigerator, garnish and serve cold. Cooking time: 1:30 hours

KHASTA KHEEMA INGREDIENTS

1.6kg/3'4 lb Lamb (lean)
cardamom-flavoured lamb pate, spiced with cumin and garnished 152/44 tsp Ginger
with almonds. 15g/4%4
tsp Garlic =
6 Eggs
PREPARATION Salt
6g/2 tsp Cumin seeds
THE LAMB: Clean, debone and cut into small chunks. 5g/1 tsp Cumin powder _
10g/2 tsp Green Cardamom
THE VEGETABLES: Scrape, wash and roughly chop ginger. Peel, wash
powder
and roughly chop garlic. Clean, wash and finely chop mint. Remove
5g/1 tsp Black Peppercorns
sterns, wash, slit, deseed and finely chop green chillies.
5g/ 1 tsp Yellow Chilli powder
THE MINCE: Coarsely mince the lamb chunks in a mincer, reserve one-
third and refrigerate. Add the chopped ginger and garlic with the 3g/'4
tsp Nutmeg and __
Mace powder
remaining kheema and mince twice again. Spread the fine mince ona
‘flat tray and put it in the freezer for an hour. 20g'/%3cup Mint
4 Green Chillies
THE ALMONDS: Blanch, cool, remove the skin and split. Soak in water,
drain.
35g/%
Almonds
cup
45g/ 1% 0z Gelatin powder
THE MOUSSE: Put the frozen mince in a blender, add the eggs (one-at-a-
time) and salt, make a mousse. Transfer the mousse to a bowl, adi the — Continued
remaining ingredients, except gelatin, and mix well. Fold in the rasqrved
coarse mince.
 séitZASTA KHEEMA
lL. oe
The Dough THE DOUGH: Sieve flour and salt together into a paraat. Put butter ina
450g/1 lb Flour frying pan, add water (approx 140ml/5 oz) and heat until the butter
Salt melts. Beat one egg. Make a bay in the sieved flour, pour the butter-
115g/4 oz Butter water mixture and the beaten egg in it, add cumin and start mixing
2 Eggs
gradually. When fully mixed, knead to make a semi-hard dough, cover
with a moist cloth and keep aside for 15 minutes. Beat the remaining egg
10g/1 Tbs Cumin seeds
for egg wash. Divide the dough into two equal portions. Place on a
lightly floured surface and flatten with a rolling pin into two %-inch
The Gsrnish
thick rectangular shapes.
4 Tomatoes (medium size)
2 Cucumber
THE GARNISH: Wash and eut tomatoes into roundels. Peel and cut
cucumbers into roundels.
THE GELATIN: Soak in tap water (approx 135 ml/5 oz) for 10 minutes
and then stir over a double boiler until it melts and a clear solution is
obtained. Strain through fine muslin into a clean bowl. Place the bowl in
lukewarm water so that the jelly does not set before use.
THE OVEN: Pre-heat to 240°F.

ASSEMBLING

Grease two moulds, line each with the flattened dough, with enough
overlapping to seal. Tightly pack the lined mould with the mousse,
cover with overlapping dough and crimp the edges. Pierce the dough to
make two small openings a few inches from each end and place a nozzle
in each—to allow the steam to escape whilst cooking and subsequently
to facilitate the pouring in of the gelatin: Give an egg wash.

COOKING

Bake in the pre-heated oven for 90 minutes. Remove, pour the warm
gelatin through the cones ensuring it does not overflow. Cool and
refrigerate overnight.

FINISHING

Demould, slice (!4-inch thick), arrange ona silver platter and refrigerate
for 30 minutes.

TO SERVE
Serves: 10(2 moulds of Ikg/
2% |b each)
Preparation time: |:30 hours Remove the platter from the refrigerator, garnish and serve cold—with
Cooking time: 1:30 hours mint chutney.
 TANDOORI
oy
OTHER KEBAB
With Madan Lal Jaiswal & Todar Mal

orth India’s traditional clay oven is probably the most versatile kitchen equipment in the
world. One cannot make a decent bread without one, nor can one savour the popular
kebab. Gravies and dals made in them acquire a unique taste, vastly different from the
stuff cooked on the open fire. It would be no exaggeration to say that it is the tandoor
which has helped popularise Indian cuisine around the globe.
The traditional tandoor is a clay oven, fired by charcoal. Until recently, the only variation was an
iron tandoor, used largely for making kebab. During the last decade, we have seen the advent of the
gas and electric randoor. It goes without saying that neither of the innovations is capable of
matching the versatility of the clay oven. It is well nigh impossible to achieve the flavour or the
aroma in these contraptions.

Mapan LAL JaiswaL: By giving a gastronomic accent to the

rustic and simple kebab, Jaiswal has helped make
Bukhara, Welcomgroup’s Frontier restaurant at the
Maurya Sheraton, quite simply the finest Indian
restaurant—anywhere. He is presently busy recreating the
ies culinary magic of his New Delhi eatery in New York—at
+ s the Bukhara in the Big Apple.
TANDOORI AND OTHER KEBAB
— an TS

Should you choose to acquire a clay tandoor, it will have to be seasoned. Asa first step, ensure that
the inner surface is smooth and without any cracks. Next, take spinach or any other leafy vegetable
and make a paste. Rub this paste evenly on the inside and leave it to dry. Then make an emulsion of
mustard oil, buttermilk, jaggery and salt, apply it over the spinach paste with the help of a cloth.
Start the randoor by lighting a small fire and allowing the temperature to rise gradually. The
prepared emulsion will peel off. Replace it with another application of the emulsion. Repeat the
process three or four times to ‘season’ the tandoor. Finally, sprinkle brine on the sides and leave it
to dry (this facilitates the sticking of breads to the sides).
Remember, temperature plays an important part in Tandoori cooking. Thus, a small fire is litand
the temperature is allowed to rise gradually. This is done to prevent any cracks from developing in
the randoor. If you light a big fire, the sudden variation in‘temperature would leave cracks in the
clay and the oven will become ineffective. Nor, for that matter, would you be able to stick the Naan
or Roti to the sides.
In the conventional ovens (gas and electric) different ingredients cook at various temperatures.
Similarly, in the :andoor, too, different foods require specific temperatures to cook. Of course, one
cannot get it correct to the degree but, from experience, one can get it almost right. To control the
temperature one needs u convex lid for the top and an iron disc for the little opening at the bottom.
lf the temperature is too high, the charcoal is moved to one side with the help ofa skewer. If the
temperature is low, then both the openings are shut off. For the novice, the only way to find out if
the temperature is right is to try and stick a Naan or a Roti to the side. If it falls off, it means the
temperature is low.
To maintain an even temperature in the tandoor, it is important that the charcoal be evenly spread
at the bottom.
It is commonly believed that the only way to cook kebab is in a tandoor or an open iron grill.
Nothing could be farther from the truth. For this section, we have included several non-tandoori
delicacies. Shallow fried or deep fried, these Kebab are as popular as the tandoori variety. What
both types of kebab share in common is the need for marination. The success of akebab depends
entirely on the exact time for which the meat is kept in marination.
For tandoori kebab, basting acquires special significance. It is the application of butter or oil
which seals in the juices and makes kebab succulent.

TopaR Mat: The one-time Bukhara partner—and

Gurubhai (which means that they were trained by the same
Guru)—of Madan Lal Jaiswal, Todar Mal now practises
his wonderful skills in the kitchen of the Mughal Room at
The Oberoi, New Delhi.
BER =
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1
 TANDOORI LOBSTER
ca ia al

TANDOORI LOBSTER INGREDIENTS

4 Lobster (Jarge size)
|e could hardly be a better way to treat Newfoundland’s off-shore
Butter for basting
bounty—it’s succulent and flavoured with India’s unique spice—
ajwain. The Marinade
20g/2 Tbs Ginger

PREPARATION | Egg
150m1/2/4 cup Cream
12e/5 tsp Ajwain
THE LOBSTER: Boil, cool, shell and devein. (If you wish to serve the
lobster in the shell, cut into half and then shell; wash the shell and 50g/3
Ginger
Tbs paste _
reserve.) 50g/3 Tbs Garlic paste
30ml/2 Tbs Lemon juice
THE MARINATION: Scrape, wash and finely chop ginger. Break the egg
in a bowl, add the chopped ginger and the remaining ingredients, whisk 50g 3 cup Gramflour
ana rub lobster with this mixture. Keep aside for 2 hours. 10g/2 tsp Garam Masala
3g/ 4 tsp White Pepper powde1
THE OVEN: Pre-heat to 350° F.
Salt
THE SKEWERING: Skewer the lobster an inch apart. Keep a tray
underneath to collect the drippings.

COOKING

Roast in a moderately hot tandoor, charcoal grill or pre-heated oven for

3-4 minutes. Remove and hang the skewers to allow the excess moisture Serves: 4
to drip off (approx 2 minutes), baste with butter and roast again for 2 Preparation time: 2:30 hours
minutes. | Cooking time: 8 minutes

Note: If you wish to make the lobster without boiling, which is always tastier, marinate
for 34 hours and roast for 12 minutes instead of 8 minutes.

TANDOORI POMFRET INGREDIENTS

4 Pomfret (450g/ 1 Ib each)
AS eloquent tribute to India’s most popular sea-fish—this delicacy is Butter for basting
a mouth-watering sight to behold.
The Marinade
60g/'4 cup Yoghurt
PREPARATION
2 Eggs
45ml/3 Tbs Cream
THE FISH: Clean, wash and make 3 deep incisions across each side.
20g/3'4
tsp Ginger paste
THE MARINATION: Hang the yoghurt in muslin for 15 minutes to remove
the whey. Separate the egg yolks, discard the whites. Transfer yoghurt 208/314
tsp Garlic paste —
and yolks to a large bowl, add the remaining ingredients, whisk and rub 10g/4 tsp
Ajwain
the fish with this mixture. Keep aside for 3 hours. — Continued

I TE DET SE IEE LEE LE SES ELLIS LOL LE ELD EET,

Sa
 TANDOORI MURGH
lo
20g/2 Tbs Gramflour THE OVEN: Pre-heat to 350°F.
3g/4 tsp White Pepper powder THE SKEWERING: Skewer the fish, from mouth to tail, two inches apart.
Salt Keep a tray underneath to collect the drippings.
10g/2 tsp Red Chilli powder
30m1/2 Tbs Lemon juice — COOKING
5g/l
Turmeric
tsp
10g/2 tsp Cumin powder
Roast in a moderately hot tandoor for 8 minutes. In a charcoal grill for
the same time. In a pre-heated oven for 12 minutes. Remove and hang
the skewers to allow the excess moisture to drip off (approx 3 minutes),
Serves: 4 baste with butter and roast again for 3 minutes.
Preparation time; 3:30 hours
Cooking time: 12-)5 minutes

INGREDIENTS
2 Chicken (600g/ 11/3 Ib each)
TANDOORI MURGH
Salt he ‘King of Kebab’, Tandoori Murgh is the best known Indian
5g/ 1 tsp Red Chilli powder delicacy and the tastiest way to barbecue chicken.
60m1/4 Tbs Lemon juice
Butter for basting
PREPARATION
The Marinade
100g/6 Tbs Yoghurt THE CHICKEN: Clean, remove the skin, make deep incisions—3 on each
100g/7 Tbs Cream breast, 3 on each thigh, 2 on each drumstick. Make a paste of salt, red
15g/2'4 tsp Ginger paste chillies and lemon juice and rub over the chicken evenly. Keep aside for
15g/2'4 tsp Garlic paste
15 minutes.
5g/1 tsp Cumin powder THE MARINATION: Whisk yoghurt in a large bowl, add the remaining
3g/%4 tsp Garam Masala ingredients and ix well. Rub the chicken with this mixture. Keep aside
Yyg/1 tsp Saffron for 4 hours.
1 drop Orange Colour THE OVEN: Pre-heat to 350°F.
THE SKEWERING: Skewerthe chicken, from tail to head, leaving a gap of
at least 2 inches between the birds. Keep a tray underneath to collect the
drippings.

COOKING

Roast in a moderately hot tandoor for approx 8 minutes. In a charcoal

Serves: 4 grill for about the same time. In a pre-heated oven for 10 minutes.
Preparation time: 4:30 hours Remove and hang the skewers to let the excess moisture drip off (approx
Cooking time: ‘15 minutes 4-5 minutes), baste with butter and roast again for 3-4 minutes.

ST
i TT RR
 MURGH TIKKA
17

MURGH TIKKA INGREDIENTS

800g/ 134 Ib Chicken (legs)
A succulent and boneless kebab—possibly the most popular after the
Butier for basting
incomparable Tandoori Murgh—makes a great cocktail snack.
The Marinade
50g/% cup Yoghurt
PREPARATION
40g/6%
tsp Ginger paste
40g/6%
tsp Garlic paste
THE CHICKEN: Clean, remove the skin and debone. Cut each leg into 4
3g/4 tsp White Pepper powder
pieces—24 tikka in all.
3g/'4 tsp Cumin powder
THE MARINATION: Whisk yoghurt in a large bowl, add the remaining
5g/1
Mace-Nutmeg-
tsp
ingredients and mix well. Rub the chicken pieces with this mixture. Green Cardamom powder
Keep aside for 3'4 hours.
3g/%4 tsp Red Chilli powder
THE OVEN: Pre-heat to 350°F.
THE SKEWERING: Skewer the marinated tikka at least an inch apart.
Keep a tray underneath to collect the drippings. 20g/2
Gramflour
Tbs =
Salt
75ml/5
Tbs Groundnut Oil
COOKING

Roast in a moderately hot tandoor for about 6-7 minutes, basting at

least once. In a charcoal grill, for about the same time, basting once. Ina
pre-heated oven, roast the tikka for 8-10 minutes, basting at least twice. Serves: 4
Make sure that the chicken does not touch the sides or the bottom of the Preparation time: 4 hours
oven. Cooking time: 10 minutes

Note: A tasty variation of the Murgh Tikka is the Tikka Harra Bharra, made with the
addition of mint and coriander paste (50g/3 Tbs) to the marinade.

MURGH NAWABI INGREDIENTS

2 Chicken (700g/ 114 Ib each)
A creamy, gently spiced chicken kebab, flavoured with mace. 60m1/4 Tbs Malt Vinegar.
8Chillies
Green
PREPARATION 10g/2 tsp White Pepper powder
3g/'4 tsp Mace powder
Sait oa ee
THE CHICKEN: Clean, remove the skin and cut each into 8 pieces.
25g/4 tsp Ginger paste
THE FIRST MARINATION: Remove stems, wash, slit, deseed and finely 25g/4 tsp Garlic paste
chop green chillies. Mix the chillies, pepper, mace, salt and the ginger
450g/2 cups Yoghurt __
and garlic pastes with vinegar in a large bowl and rub the chicken pieces
with this mixture. Keep aside for 15 minutes.
THE SECOND MARINATION: Hang yoghurt in muslin for 4 hours to remove — Continued
SHAAN-E-MURGH
sme
2 SS SSE SE SST SSS SS SSS ED,

100m1/7 Tbs Cream the whey. Mix with cream ina large bowl, transfer the chicken to this
Butter tor basting marinade. Keep aside for 3 hours.
THE OVEN: Pre-heat to 350°F.
THE SKEWERING: Skewer the chicken pieces an inch apart. Keep a tray
underneath to collect the drippings.

COOKING

Roast in a moderately hot tandoor for 10 minutes. Ina charcoal grill for
Serves: 4 the same time. In a pre-heated dven for 12 minutes. Remove and hang
Preparation time: 7:45 hours the skewers to allow the excess moisture to drip off (approx 2 minutes),
Cooking time: 15 minutes baste with butter and roast again for 3 minutes.

INGREDIENTS
SHAAN-E-MURGH
8 Breasts of Chicken
Ghee to deep fry stuffed "Trhis is a magnificent kebab of tender chicken breasts stuffed with
breasts of chicken black cumin-flavoured paneer.

The Marinade
20g/3'4 tsp Ginger paste
PREPARATION
20g/3'4 tsp Garlic paste
3g/'4 tsp Yellow Chili powder THE CHICKEN: Clean, remove the skin and debone, keeping the winglet
Salt
bone intact. With a knife-tip make a deep slit along the thick edge ofthe
60m1/4 Tbs Lemon juice
breast, taking care not to penetrate the opposite side (see photographs).
Open out the flaps thus formed and flatten with a bat.
The Filling THE MARINATION: Mix yellow chillies, salt and lemon juice with the
300g/11 0z Paneer* ginger and garlic pastes and apply this mixture on the flattened chicken
8 Green Chillies breasts. Keep aside for at least 30 minutes.
20g/3 cup Coriander THE FILLING: Mash the paneer in-a bowl. Remove stems, wash, slit,
deseed and finely chop green chillies. Clean, wash and chop coriander.
 MURGH MALAI
19
Finely chop the pineapple rings. Roughly chop cashewnuts. Add these 2 Pineapple rings
chopped ingredients, cumin, yellow chillies and salt with the mashed 402/14; cup Cashewnuts a
Paneer and mix well. 3g/|tsp Black Cumin seeds
THE STUFFING: Place a portion of the filling in the middle of the 3g/ tspYellow Chilli powder
marinated chicken breasts and fold to make round halls, with the bone Balto fetk. one.
sticking out (see photographs on p. 18). Refrigerate for 15 minutes.
The Batter
THE BATTER: Break eggs ina bowl, add cornflour, flour, salt and water
(approx 100 ml) and whisk to make a batter. 3 Eggs
1502/5 oz Cornflour ar
THE OVEN: Pre-heat to 275° F.
50g/6 Tbs Flour
Salt—
COOKING

Heat ghee in a kadhai, dip the stuffed chicken breasts in the batter and
deep fry over medium heat until light golden.

FINISHING
Serves: 4
Grease a roasting tray witha little ghee, arrange the fried chicken breasts ‘Preparation iirae: 1:15 hours
on it and roast in a pre-heated oven for 10-12 minutes. Cooking tirae: 35 minutes

*See Section on Milk.

MURGH MALAI INGREDIENTS

12 Breasts of Chicken
yA ney kebab made from the breasts of chicken the Murgh Malai 40g¢/ 6% tsp Ginger paste
combines the joys of the traditional kebabi herbs and spices with 35g/6 tsp Garlic paste
cheddar. 5g/1 tsp White Pepper powder
Salts 265. asta abe
PREPARATION Butter for basting

THE CHICKEN: Clean, remove the skin, debone and cut each breast into The Marinade

two. Add the ginger and garlic pastes to the seasoning and rub the ~ 1 Egg
chicken pieces with this mixture. Keep aside for 15 minutes. 60g/ 4 cup Cheddar Cheese
(semi-hard)
THE MARINATION: Break egg in a bowl. Grate cheese and mash.
8 Green Chillies
Remove stems, wash, slit, deseed and finely chop green chillies. Clean,
wash and finely chop coriander. Mix cheese, green chillies, coriander
20g'/3
cup Coriander
and the remaining ingredients with the egg, whisk and rub the chicken 160ml/%4cup Cream
pieces with this mixture. Keep aside for 3 hours. 3g/14tsp Mace and Nutmeg
powder
THE OVEN: Pre-heat to 275°F.
15g/3 Tbs Cornflour
THE SKEWERING: Skewer the chicken pieces an inch apart. Keep a tray
underneath to collect the drippings. — Continued

i
renner seeee ere eeeerrrercrree errs
 KASTOORI KEBAB
20
TT

COOKING

Roast in a moderately hot tandoor for approximately 5 minutes. In a

charcoal grill for about the same time. In a pre-heated oven for 6
Serves: 4 minutes. Remove and hang the skewers to let the excess moisture drip
Preparation time: 3:45 hours off (approx 2-3 minutes), baste with butter and roast again for 3
Cooking time: !2 minutes minutes.

INGREDIENTS KASTOORI KEBAB

12 Breasts of Chicken
n egg-coated variation of the Murgh Tikka, spiced.with cumin and
40g/6% tsp Ginger paste flavoured with cardamom.
40g/6%
tsp Garlic paste _
45ml/3 Tbs Lemon juice
5g/1 tsp White Pepper powder PREPARATION
Si...
60g/4 Tbs Butter THE CHICKEN: Clean, remove the skin, debone and cut each breast into
10m1/2
Groundnut
tsp Oil two. Mix ginger paste, garlic paste and lemon juice with the seasoning
100g/24 cup Gramflour and rub the chicken pieces with this mixture. Keep aside for | hour.
80g/% cup Breadcrumbs THE VEGETABLES: Scrape, wash and finely chop ginger. Clean, wash
20g/2 Tbs Ginger and chop coriander.
20g/Yscup Coriander THE GRAMFLOUR: Heat butter and oil in a kadhai, add gramflour and
2g/'3 tsp Green Cardamom saute over medium heat until golden brown. Remove 20g/ 4 tspand keep
aside. Add breadcrumbs, chopped ginger, coriander and the marinated
chicken, saute for 3-4 minutes.

3 Eggs
THE BATTER: Separate the egg yolks, discard the whites, transfer to a
bowl, add cumin, saffron and the reserved gramflour, whisk.
3g/1 tsp Black Cumin seeds
Y4g/1 tsp Sattron THE OVEN: Pre-heat to 300° F.
THE SKEWERING: Skewer 6 chicken pieces together and overlapping.
Leave a gap of 2 inches and then skewer the next lot. Coat each set with
the batter.
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COOKING

Serves: 4 Roast ina moderately hot tandoor for 5-6 minutes. Ina charcoal grill for
Preparation time: 2:30 hours 6-7 minutes. In a pre-heated oven for 8-10 minutes. Remove and
Cooking time: 10 minutes sprinkle cardamom powder.
 RESHMI KEBAB
ES

RESHMI KEBAB INGREDIENTS

A : F 1 kg/ 24 lb Chicken Mince
tender kebab made from chicken mince and cashewnut paste. > Pars maa? wet Pipe
58/1 Ths Cuminpowder
PREPARATION 5g/ 1 tsp Yellow Chilli powder
SE 5g/1 tsp White Pepper powder
THE EGGS: Break in a bowl and whisk. lie tills OL
THE CASHEWNUTS: Pound with a pestle. 20m1/4 tsp Groundnut Oil
THE VEGETABLES: Scrape, wash and finely chop ginger. Peel, wash and pase Se
finely chop onions. Clean, wash and chop coriander. SD TES AHR EEE
20g/2 Tbs Onions
THE MINCE: Add the whisked eggs, cumin, yellow chillies. white pepper,
20g/ Ys cup Coriander
salt and oil to the mince and mix well. Keep aside for 15 minutes. Then ee eee ee
add the cashewnuts, the chopped vegetables and garam masala, mix 8! !sp Garam Masala
well. Divide into 8 equal portions and make balls. Buea eouee
THE OVEN: Pre-heat to 300° F.
THE SKEWERING: Using a wet hand, spread the balls by pressing each
along the length of the skewers two inches apart and making each kebab
3 inches long (see photographs).

COOKING

Roast in a moderately hot tandoor for 6 minutes, basting once, until Serves: 4
they are light golden. Ina charcoal grill, forabout the same time, basting _ Preparation time:
30minutes
once. In a pre-heated oven, roast for 8 minutes, basting once. Cooking time: 5-6 minutes
 GALOUTI KEBAB
19:

INGREDIENTS
GALOUTI KEBAB
Ikg/2/; Ib Leg of Spring Lamb
50g/3 Tbs Ginger paste
he remarkable thing about the mace and cardamom flavoured
Galouti is that it melts in the mouth. It is the ‘royal kebab’.
50g/3 Tbs Garlic paste
75g/2'4 0z Raw Papaya
50g/3 Butter
Tbs PREPARATION
5g/1
tsp Red Chilli powder
Salt THE LAMB: Clean, debone, mince and refrigerate for 15 minutes.
38/14 powder
tsp Mace THE PAPAYA: Peel, deseed, put in a blender and make a fine paste.
5g/1tsp Green Cardamom THE PATTIES: Mix all the ingredients, except ghee, with the refrigerated
powder
mince and mince the mixture. Divide into 32 equal portions and make
40g/4 Tbs Flour of
balls. Apply a little melted ghee on the palms and flatten the mince balls
Roasted Channa dal
into round patties (approx 2-inch.diameter).
Ghee to shallow fry

COOKING
Serves: 4
Preparation time: |:!0 hours
Cooking time: 15 minutes Heat ghee on a tawa and shallow fry over low heat until both sides are
for each set evenly brown.

INGREDIENTS
MALAI SEEKH
900g/2 lb Lamb Mince
150g/50z Lamb Fat erbs and cashewnuts combine to make this succulent kebab of
402/%4 cup Onions lamb mince an extraordinary cocktail snack.
40g/% cup Ginger ae
8 Green Chillies PREPARATION
208) Y; cup Coriander
75g/?4 cup Cashewnuts
THE FAT: Mince.
2 Eggs
50ml/3
Tbs Groundnut Oil THE VEGETABLES: Peel, wash and finely chop onions. Scrape, wash and
38/4 tsp White Pepper powder
finely chop ginger. Remove stems, wash, slit, deseed and finely chop
green chillies. Clean, wash and chop coriander.
wae.
2°
THE CASHEWNUTS: Pound with a pestle.
10g/2 tsp Garam Masala
Butter for basting THE EGGS: Whisk in a bowl.
THE MINCE: Add all the ingredients, except butter, to lamb mince in a
large bowl and mix well. Keep aside for 15 minutes. Divide into 12 equai
portions and make balls.
THE OVEN: Pre-heat to 325°F.
THE SKEWERING: Using a wet hand, spread the balls by pressing each
along the length of the skewers, two inches apart, and making each
kebab 4-inches long (see photographs on p. 21).
 DUM KE KEBAB
Se Seo eh FESS SS RS ESTES SESS SPS BE SIT SET A SS ET PCS NED SEP
PLELA EASE AOD
eo — " eS

COOKING

Roast in a moderately hot tandoor for 8 minutes. In a charcoal grill for

about the same time. Ina pre-heated oven for 8-10 minutes. Remove and Serves: 4
hang the skewers to let the excess moisture drip off (approx 2 minutes), Preparation time: 40 minutes
baste with butter and roast again for 2 minutes. Cooking time: 14 minutes

DUM KE KEBAB INGREDIENTS

500g/18 0z Lamb Mince
lel this delicacy the mince is smoked before the kebab is cooked. 75/4
Cashewnuts
cup
30g/%
Almonds
cup
PREPARATION 50g/%s cup Coconut
10g/2 tsp Coriander powder
THE ALMONDS: Blanch, cool and peel. IC aT
THE COCONUT: Remove the brown skin and grate.
6Cardamom
Green
THE ONIONS: Peel, wash and slice. Heat oil in a frying pan and fry until
3g/1 tsp Black Cumin seeds
golden brown. Remove and keep aside.
20g/2 Tbs Onions
THE REMAINING VEGETABLES: Clean, wash and chop mint and.
Groundnut Oil to fry Onions
coriander. Remove stems, wash, slit, deseed and chop green chillies.
5g/ 1 tsp Red Chilli powder
THE PASTE: Put cashewnuts, almonds, coconut, coriander powder and 3g/'4 tsp Turmeric
the whole spices in a blender, add water (approx 120ml/'4 cup) and
Salt
make a fine paste.
50m1/3 Tbs Groundnut
THE MINCE: Mix fried onions, red chillies, turmeric and salt with the Oil for smoking
mince in a handi, add the paste and mix well. Keep aside for at least 30 10g/2 Tbs Mint
minutes. 10g/ 2 Tbs Coriander
THE SMOKING: Spread the mince on a tray, make a well (an area of 6- 4 Green Chillies -
inch diameter). Place glowing charcoals in the well, pour oil on the
charcoals and cover the tray with a dome for 10 minutes. Uncover and
transfer the mince backto the handi. Add mint, coriander and green
chillies, mix well.

COOKING

Ideally, Dum ke Kebab shouid be skewered and cooked ina moderately Serves: 4
hot tandoor or over a charcoal grill. Alternatively, make round patties, Preparation time: 45 minutes
heat enough oil on a tawa and shallow fry until the kebab are cooked. Cooking time: 7 minutes

ee re a
 SHIKAM PUR: KEBAB
24

INGREDIENTS
SHIKAMPURI KEBAB
500g/'18 oz Lamb Mince
he common Shammi pales in comparison with this superlative
50g/'4 cup Channa dal
eee from Shikampur, a hamlet near Hyderabad. Kakori, a few
10 cloves Garlic
miles from Lucknow, was put on the Nation’s culinary map by a kebab
3g/1 tsp Black Cumin seeds named after the city. The Shikampuriis sure to do the same for the place
5 Green Cardamom of its origin.
2 sticks Cinnamon (1-inch)
5 Cloves
30ml/2 Tbs Groundnut Oil PREPARATION
30g/%4
Almonds
cup
50g/ 2/4; cup Coconut THE LENTIL: Pick and wash in running water.
30ml/2 Tbs Lemon Juice THE GARLIC: Peel.
3g/4tsp Turmeric THE ALMONDS: Blanch, cool and peel.
5g/ |tsp Red Chilli powder THE COCONUT: Remove the brown skin and grate.
oe THE MINCE: Mix channa dal, garlic, black cumin, cardamom,
Salt
cinnamon, cloves and oil with the mince in a handi, add water (approx
Groundnut
Oil to deep fry 180ml/ 3 cup), bring to a boil, reduce to medium heat and cook until the
The Filling mince is completely dry. Then add almonds and coconut, fry over
2 Eggs medium heat for 2-3 minutes. Remove, cool, put ina blenderand makea
fine paste. Transfer the paste to the handi, add lemon juice, turmeric, red
30g/3
Onions
Tbs
chillies, eggs and salt, mix well. Divide the mixture into 8 equal portions
10g/2 Tbs Mint
and make balls.
10g/2 Tbs Coriander
4 Green Chillies
THE FILLING: Hard boil the eggs, cool, shell, cut into halves and discard
the yolks. Roughly chop the whites. Peel, wash and finely chop onions.
Salt
Clean, wash and chop mint and coriander. Remove stems, wash, slit,
deseed and finely chop green chillies. Mix these ingredients with salt ina
bowl and divide into 8 equal portions.
THE STUFFING: Flatten each ball against a wet palm, place a portion of
the filling in the middle, seal and flatten again into round patties.
+ Se SssS= aca

Serves: 4
COOKING
Preparation time: 25 minutes
Cooking time: 2-3 minutes Heat oil in kadhai and deep fry the patties over medium heat until dark
for each set brown.

INGREDIENTS
ADRAKI CHAAMP
12 Lamb chops (3-rib)
50g/2 0z Raw Papaya Cao juicy lamb chops done to perfection in a creamy
cumin-based marinade sans yoghurt.
 GOSHT ELAICHI PASANDA
———
re LS
Seeman
75g/'%4 cup Ginger paste
PREPARATION 20g/3'4 tsp Garlic paste
a
ee eee
3g/'4 tsp Black Pepper powder
THE LAMB CHOPS: Clean, remove the two side bones and flatten witha ianemia
ai ale
bat. Peel and mash papaya, add the ginger paste, garlic paste and Butter for basting
seasoning, rub the chops with this mixture. Keep aside for 3 hours.
THE MARINATION: Mix all the ingredients with cream in a large bowl The Marinade
and rub the chops with this mixture. Keep aside for | hour. 50m1/3 Tbs Cream

THE OVEN: Pre-heat to 350° F. 15g/1 Tbs Cumin powder

10g/2 tsp Red Chilli powder
THE SKEWERING: Skewer the chops an inch apart. Keep a tray
underneath to collect the drippings. 10g/2 tsp Garam Masala ,
45ml/3 Tbs Lemon juice

COOKING

Roast in a moderately hot tandoor for 9-10 minutes. In a charcoal grill

for about the same time. In a pre-heated oven for 10-12 minutes. Serves: 4
Remove and hang the skewers to allow the moisture to drip off (approx Preparation time: 4:30 hours
4-5 minutes), baste with butter and roast again for 3 minutes. Cooking time: 20 minutes

GOSHT ELAICHI PASANDA INGREDIENTS

1 kg/ 2% lb Lamb
Ashe Betend kebab made from picatta of lamb. 75/24
oz Raw Papaya
50g/3 Tbs Ginger paste _
50g/3 Tbs Garlic paste
PREPARATION 3g/'4 tsp Black Pepper powder
Salt
THE LAMB: Clean, debone, cut into 14-inch chunks and flatten with a Butter for basting,
bat to make picatta of '4-inch thickness. Peel and mash the papaya, add
ginger paste, garlic paste and seasoning, rub the picatta with this The Marinade
mixture. Keep aside for 1'4 hours. 80g/ Ys cup Yoghurt
THE MARINATION: Hang yoghurt in muslin for 4 hours to remove the 10g/2 tsp Red Chilli powder
whey. Transfer to a large bowl, add the remaining ingredients, whisk 10g/2 tsp Green Cardamom
and rub the picatta with this mixture. Keep aside for | hour. powder
THE OVEN: Pre-heat to 350° F. 20m1/4 tsp Lemon juice
THE SKEWERING: Skewer the picatta—by piercing at both ends—an 20g/4 tsp Garam Masala
inch apart. Keep a tray underneath to collect the drippings.

— Continued

COOKING

Roast in a moderately hot tandoor for 9-10 minutes. In a charcoal grill

SILI ETE ES TENTS ISS ISLOSE LES ILD EIT LI ELLIE LD DDE LETS ILA IEEIELTTE OL ELIOT EE EIR LL LE ELE LLDIELIE BDV D LILLE LE LOL LEA LAL LEPEALE LILES EDLEELA TDL IED
PANEER KA TIKKA

Serves: 4 for about the same time. In a pre-heated oven for 10-12 minutes.
Preparation time: 7 hours Remove and hang the skewers to allow the moisture to drip off (approx
Cooking time: 20 minutes 4-5 minutes), baste with butter and roast again for 3 minutes.

Note: To make Boti Kebab, debone lamb and cut into }4-inch cubes, do not flatten. For
the marinade, use 100g/'4 cup yoghurt (instead of 80g), 5g/ 1 tsp cumin powder (instead
of green cardamom powder) and Sml/1 tsp orange colour. The rest of the procedure is
the same.

INGREDIENTS
PANEER KA TIKKA
800g/ 134 lb Paneer*
3g/1 tsp Black Cumin seeds
ie a largely vegetarian country, it is improbable that there would be
nothing for the vegetarians in tandoori cooking. This is an exotic
5g/2 tsp Ajwain
kebab of Indian cottage cheese.
10g/2 tsp Garam Masala
3g/14tsp White Pepper powder
3g/%4Turmeric
tsp PREPARATION
Salt
3g/1'4 Fenugreek
tsp THE PANEER: Cut into 16 equal-sized tikka (2’X2”X1”). Evenly sprinkle
(Kasoori Methi) black cumin, ajwain, 7g/1'4 tsp of garam masala, white pepper, turmeric
and salt, keep aside.
The Batter
THE BATTER: Whisk egg in a bowl, add the remaining ingredients, mix
| Egg
well, and leave the paneer in this batter for 45 minutes.
30g/3 Tbs Gramflour
THE OVEN: Pre-heat to 275° F.
120ml/4
cup Cream THE SKEWERING: Skewer the tikka, one inch apart, then skewer a raw
Salt
onion to prevent the paneer from sliding down. Keep a tray underneath
to collect the drippings.

COOKING

Serves: 4 Roast in a moderately hot tandoor for 10-12 minutes. In a charcoal grill
Preparation time: 1:30 hours for about the same time. In a pre-heated oven for 12-14 minutes.
Cooking time: 13 minutes Remove and sprinkle Kasoori Methi and the remaining garam masala.

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*See section on Milk.

 ay

HANDI,
KADHAI & TAWA
With Arvind Saraswat

ntil recently—and this is most unfortunate—Indian food was synonymous with either the
‘rich’ food of the Maharajas or the ‘chilli-hot’ fare served in the run-of-the-mill
restaurant. Neither is truly representative of the real Indian cuisine—-one with thousands
of years of refinement behind it. There is no denying that Indian cuisine can be elaborate
and Indian hospitality overwhelming. However, as in other parts of the world, food habits here are
changing.
To cater to changing tastes, many chefs started to look for alternatives. My ‘co-author’ for this and
the following two chapters chose to experiment with delicacies that can be prepared in/ on the most
commonly used utensils in Indian cooking—handi, kadhai and tawa.
Though Handi cooking is prevalent.in most of India, it has carved a permanent niche in the
Northern states. Handi come in different shapes and sizes, but there are features commor to all: a
thick bottom to ensure that the food does not stick and, consequently, burn; tinning on the inside
to prevent any chemical reaction; and, a lid’‘to help retain the aroma and flavour.
==

ARVIND SARASWAT: A methodical man, the 39-year-old

Saraswat, who is Director of Kitchen Planning and Food
Production, Taj Group of Hotels, has spent many years
researching the history of cooking with different utensils.
Many of his exquisitely wrought dishes have set new
standards of excellence and made his kitchens the envy of
other leading hotel chains in the country. An alumnus of
the Culinary Institute of America, the Hilton-trained
Saraswat is also a member of the Sicilian Chets’
Association. At present he is presiding the Delhi Chapter
of the Les Toques Blanche, the Paris-based International
Chefs Club.
 HANDI, KADHAI AND TAWA
28
The most important aspects of Handi cooking are bhunao and dum, both described in detail in the
Introduction.
Originally, there were only two Kadhai delicacies—Kadhai Murgh (chicken) and Kadhai Gosht
(goat or lamb)—popular in Peshawar and West Punjab, both now provinces of Pakistan.
Traditional Kadhai shops, which still exist and serve the two dishes, have an in-house butchery.
Diners select a chicken (or chickens) or cut of meat, which is weighed in pao (4 |b.*) and seer
(2 lb.*), the old Indian weights, and then cut into small pieces or chunks. A facile Kadhai chef can
handle anything up to 16 Kadhai simultaneously, ensuring each is taken off the fire at exactly the
right moment and reaches the right table. The diners are at liberty to watch the ‘performance’ or
sit at their respective tables. The kadhai, in which the food is prepared, is placed in the centre of the
table and everyone eats out of it, breaking pieces from a large, family-size Naan-like Roti to go
with it.
Based on the originals, we have created a whole section of Kadhai delicacies—dry, cooked ina
thick tomato-based masala and finished with Kasoori Methi and garam masala. Except for the
lamb dishes, Kadhai cooking is quick. Lamb has to be three-fourths cooked before being finished
in the kadhai: The reason: there is no water used in Kadhai cooking. The main ingredient is cooked
in the ‘juice’ of tomatoes and the meat itself. Because lamb takes longer to cook, the ‘juice’ would
evaporate long before it is tender.
When the cooking process is about to be completed, the food is stirred constantly and the sides
scraped vigorously to prevent sticking. The scraped masala adds to the flavour.
There is a certain fresh—and light—quality about Kadhai cuisine. To enjoy it to the fullest, the
dish must be consumed immediately. Unlike Handi cooking, where many dishes can be prepared in
advance, Kadhai cooking has to be done ‘on site’. In the main, it is a chilli-hot food. However, one
is at liberty to reduce the chillies.
Pao- Bhaji and Tak-a- Tak! One a simple potato ‘n’ tomato dish served with miniature bread loaves,
pao,which found everlasting fame in Bombay’s Dhobi Talao, once the city’s washermen’s pond.
The second, originally a dish of chopped offals made famous in the back alleys of Karachi—the
other great metropolis on the West coast of the Subcontinent, derives its unique name from
the sound of metal spatulae striking the tawa or griddle. These two simple dishes provided the
inspiration for this section.
The tawa on which these delicacies are cooked is not the conventional household griddle—it is
thicker and larger (at least 15-inch diameter). The thickness prevents sticking to a large extent, but
does not eradicate the danger altogether. The larger surface allows the food to be moved to the
periphery—away trom the heat of the flame or hot plate. In case of a small delay, the use of the
periphery also helps to keep the food warm. Besides, the rawa offers one great advantage over the
other utensils: the cooking process takes the least time. However, during that short time, it
demands constant attention—stirring, chopping and/or folding.
When it comes to masala, use only pounded or powdered—never whole—spices. The spices are
usually added last—to ensure that they do not get burnt and that the flavour is enhanced.
Tawa cooking, like Kadhai cooking, has to be done ‘on site’ and the delicacies consumed
immediately.

* Approximate.

SSS SSS lS
 MURGH NAVRATTAN

Handi
MURGH NAVRATTAN INGREDIENTS
1.2 kg/22/ bb Chicken (2 birds)
35Ug/ 14 cups Yoghurt
delicacy for rare occasions, Murgh Navrattan is mild—but ‘heavy’.
It has a thick, creamy gravy flavoured with mace and cardamom
Sala ee
The original navrattan—nine jewels—were the incomparable courtiers 150g/%
cup Ghee
of the Great Mughal, Akbar. This dish, named after thém, is an eloquent Whole Garam Masala
5 Green Cardamom
tribute to the Emperor’s nobles.
1\Black Cardamom
5 Cloves
1 stick Cinnamon (l-inch)
PREPARATION I Bay Leaf
A pinch Mace
200g/ 14 cups Onions
THE CHICKEN: Clean, remove the skin and cut each into 8 pieces. 10g/1
GingerTbs
THE MARINATION: Whisk yoghurt ina large bowl, add salt and leave the 4Green Chillies
chicken pieces in this marinade for at least 30 minutes. 2 g/¥stsp Turmeric
THE VEGETABLES: Peel, wash and slice onions. Scrape, wash and chop 10g/2 tsp Red Chilli powder
ginger. Remove stems, wash, slit, deseed and chop green chillies. 120ml/4
cup Cream
THE SHAHI PASTE: Soak poppy seeds for 30 minutes. Blanch almonds, 3g/'4 tsp Mace and Green
remove the skin, put in a blender, alongwith poppy seeds, cashewnuts, Cardamom powder
melon seeds and water (approx 120ml/'4 cup) and make a fine paste.
The Shahi Paste
THE GARNISH: Blanch pistachio and almonds, remove the skin. Soak in
lukewarm water with the remaining ingredients for 15 minutes. 20g/2 Tbs Poppy seeds
Almo
40g/% cup nds
40g/'%4 cup Cashewnuts il
20g/2 Tbs Melon seeds _
COOKING
The Garnish
Heat ghee in a handi, add whole garam masala and saute over medium 15 Pistachio
heat until it begins to crackle. Add onions and saute until golden brown. 10
Almonds
Then add ginger and green chillies, stir for a minute, add turmeric and 10 Cashewnuts
red chillies—dissolved in 30ml/2 Tbs of water (this is done to ensure
that turmeric and chillies do not burn and ruin the masala)—bhunno
(omvalsca naam
10 Pine Nuts
for 2 minutes, add the marinated chicken, alongwith the marinade, add
10g/1
Raisins
Tbs
water (approx 100m1/7 Tbs), bring to a boil, cover and simmer until
10g/1 Tbs Watermelon seeds
chicken is tender. Now add Shahi paste, bring to a boil, then simmer
until the fat comes to the surface, add cream and stir. Sprinkle mace and 10g/1 Tbs Melon seeds _
cardamom powder and half the garnish, stir. Adjust the seasoning. 10g/1
Sunflower
Tbs seeds
—Continued

aaaaacaaacaaaaaaaad
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 METHI MURGH
30

TO SERVE
Serves: 4
Preparation time: 1:05 hours Remove to a dish, garnish with the remaining Navrattan and serve with
Cooking time: 30 minutes Pulao or an Indian bread of your choice.

INGREDIENTS
METHI MURGH
Ikg/2% Ib Chicken (2 birds)
225g/1 cup Yoghurt s with almost every delicacy, Methi (Fenugreek) Murgh tastes best
Salt with fresh fenugreek. The world’s finest fenugreek comes from
Qasur, in Pakistan. Dried fenugreek powder is now, in tribute, referred
100g/ 4 cup Ghee
toas Kasoori Methi or fenugreek from Qasur. The ‘spice’-—is an adequate
Whole Garam Masala
replacement for the fresh vegetable.
5 Green Cardamom
1 Black Cardamom
5 Cloves PREPARATION
1 stick Cinnamon (1-inch)
1 Bay Leaf
THE CHICKEN: Clean, remove the skin and cut each into 8 pieces.
A pinch Mace
300g/ 134 cups Onions THE MARINATION: Whisk yoghurt ina large bowl, add salt and leave the
chicken in this marinade for at least 30 minutes.
30g/3 Tbs Garlic
50g/5 Tbs Ginger THE VEGETABLES: Peel, wash and chop onions. Peel and chop garlic.
6 Green Chillies Scrape, wash and chop 30g/3 Tbs ginger, cut the rest into juliennes for
3g/4 tsp Turmeric
garnish. Remove stems, wash, slit, deseed and chop green chillies. Wash
and chop tomatoes. Clean, wash and chop coriander.
5g/1 tsp Coriander powder
5g/1 tsp Red Chilli powder THE OVEN: Preheat to 350° F.
250g/1 cup Tomatoes ee See Se ee See ee ee elt SI Ie
10g/2 Tbs Fenugreek
COOKING
(Kasoori Methi)
15g/% cup Coriander Heat ghee in a handi, add whole garam masala and saute over medium
heat until it begins to crackle. Add onions and saute until golden brown.
Then add chopped garlic, ginger and green chillies, stir for 2 minutes,
add turmeric, coriander powder and red chillies—dissolved in 60ml/l/
cup of water—and stir for 30 seconds. Now add tomatoes and bhunno
until the fat leaves the masala, add the marinated chicken alongwith the
marinade and water (approx 180ml/% cup), bring to a boil, cover and
simmer until chicken is almost cooked and the fat leaves the masala once
again. Adjust the seasoning. Sprinkle fenugreek, ginger juliennes and
coriander. Cover with a lid.

FINISHING
witli kane eel EE aes SOlt ti) pete ay ere
Seal the handi with atta (whole-wheat) dough and put it on dum in the
pre-heated oven for 15 minutes.
Aas SS
SSS es ssssssss-sisitsensvesnnisotsocasnenscoeseseccs
ae SS SSS sss
 ACHAAR KORMA

TO SERVE
: : : Serves: 4
Open the handi at the table and serve with an Indian bread of your Preparation time:45minutes
choice. Cooking time: 35 minutes

Note: Whenusing fresh fenugreek (60g/ 1 cup), clean, wash and immerse in salted water
for 30 minutes to remove the bitterness. Drain and add to the marinade.

ACHAAR KORMA eee

; ; : 1 kg/2!4 Ib LegofSpning Larne
whiff of Achaar Korma is enough to tickle the palate. A creative 38/4
tsp Turmeric
endeavour that owes much to Rajasthani cuisine, this Chef’s aj
original is a semi-dry lamb done in a combination of mustard oil, 20m1/4
tsp Mustard Ol
mustard seeds, ka/onji and jaggery—ingredients that go into the making {00g/4 cup Ghee”
of pickles. 125g/% cup Onions
8Chillies
Whole Red
PREPARATION 3g/1
Mustard
tsp seeds
5 Cloves
THE LAMB: Clean, debone and cut into 1-inch boti. Put in a handi, add A
Asafoetida
pinch
turmeric, salt and water (approx 1.6 litres/ 624 cups), bring to a boil, 5g/1 tsp Red Chilli powder
reduce to low heat, cover and simmer until tender. Drain and reserve the
3g/1 tsp Cumin seeds
stock.
AEC
aon ee
THE VEGETABLES: Peel, wash and slice onions. Scrape, wash and shred 25g/10z Jaggery
ginger. Peel and chop garlic.
15g/5 tsp Ginger
THE YOGHURT: Whisk in a bowl. 10 cloves Garlic
30ml/2
Tbs Lemon juice —
225g/1
cup Yoghurt
COOKING
—Continued
Heat mustard oil in a handi to smoking point (in order to remove the
pungency from the oil), reduce to medium heat and add ghee. When the
ghee becomes hot, add onions and saute until brown. Remove onions
for garnish. In the same fat, add whole red chillies and fry until black.
Remove and discard the chillies. (The frying of chillies helps to
incorporate the flavour in the fat.)
Reheat this ‘chilli oil’, add mustard seeds, cloves and asafoetida, saute
until the seeds begin to crackle. Add the cooked lamb, red chilli powder,
cumin seeds, kalonji, jaggery, ginger and garlic, bhunno for 2-3 minutes
until the boti acquire a brownish hue. Then add the reserved stock and
lemon juice, simmer for a minute. Remove the handi, add yoghurt, stir,
return to heat and bhunno until the fat leaves the masala. Adjust the
seasoning. (The handi is removed from the fire to prevent the yoghurt
from curdling.)
 GOSHT AUR VADI BIRYANI
az

TO SERVE
Serves: 4
Preparation time: 30 minutes Remove to a dish, garnish with fried onions and serve with an Indian
Cooking time: 1:25 hours bread of your choice.

INGREDIENTS
GOSHT AUR VADI BIRYANI
250g/ 14 cups Basmati Rice
800ml1/3'/3 cups Milk |jee and urad dal dumplings, simmered in an exotic gravy, go 'to
Whole Garam Masala
make this Chef’s original rice delicacy a magnificent meal.
5 Green Cardamom
_ 1 Black Cardamom
5 Cloves
PREPARATION
I stick Cinnamon (1-inch)
1 Bay Leaf THE RICE: Pick, wash in running water and soak for 30 minutes. Drain.
A pinch Mace THE LAMB: Clean and cut into 14-inch chunks.
Salt THE MARINATION: Whisk yoghurt in a bowl, reserve half. In the
remaining yoghurt, add red chillies, coriander powder, salt and the
The Lamb ginger and garlic pastes. Leave the lamb chunks in this marinade for at
450g/1 lb Leg of Spring Lamb least 30 minutes.
200g/% cup Yoghurt THE GRAVY: Peel, wash and slice onions. Scrape, wash and cut ginger
5g/ 1 tsp Red Chilli powder into juliennes. Remove stems, wash, slit, deseed and chop green chillies.
3g/4 tsp Coriander powder
THE VADI: Heat oil in a kadhai and deep fry until golden brown. Cool
Salt and break into pieces.
5g/ 1 tsp Ginger paste
THE GARNISH: Clean, wash and chop mint and coriander. Washand cut
5g/1 tsp Garlic paste tomatoes into quarters. Scrape, wash and cut ginger into juliennes.
100g/'4 cup Ghee Dissolve asafoetida in 30 ml/2 Tbs of water. Dissolve saffron in warm
1252/34 cup Onions milk.
Whole Garam Masala THE OVEN: Pre-heat to 350°F.
5 Green Cardamom
I Black Cardamom
pi Aa Berea Pee FOERPER AEDS Bs eaEbae PeeE Se Ee lees) |
5 Cloves COOKING
1 stick Cinnamon (l-inch)
1 Bay Leaf
A pinch Mace To prepare rice, boil water (approx | litre/4 cups) and milk together ina
handi, add whole garam masala, salt and rice, cook until almost done (7-
10g/1 Tbs Ginger
8 minutes).
4 Green Chillies
To prepare lamb, heat ghee in a handi, add onions and saute over
medium heat until light brown. Add whole garam masala, ginger
juliennes and green chillies, saute until onions are brown. Then add the
marinated lamb and cook over low heat until tender. Use as much water
as is required to make the meat tender.
LS
 KACHCHI MIRCH KA GOSHT
33
aeae eee eee
The Vadi
ASSEMBLING 50g/2 0z Vadi (Urad dal
dumplings)*
In the handi with the cooked lamb, sprinkle vadi and the garnish of | Groundnut Oil to fry
mint, coriander, tomatoes, ginger juliennes, golden brown onions, the :
ie ; ¢ ig The Garnish
remaining yoghurt and asafoetida. Spread the rice over the garnished ZopiedpeNns
lamb. Sprinkle saffron, place a moist cloth on top, cover with a lid and Sipe Cone
seal with atta-dough. ee
100g/'4 cup Tomatoes
= : 10g/1 Tbs Ginger
FINISHING 25g/4 Tbs Fried Onions
A pinch Asafoetida
Put the sealed handi on dum in the pre-heated oven for 15-20 minutes. _!g/2 tsp Saffron
60ml1/'4 cup Milk

TO SERVE

Break the seal, remove the moist cloth and shift the rice from one side _—_Serves: 4
(just enough to remove the cooked lamb and vadi). Makea bed oflamb _ Preparation time: 45 minutes
and vadi on the serving dish, spread the rice on top and serve. Cooking time» 1:25 hours

*See recipe for Mongodi ki Subzi in the Rajasthan section. Substitute urad dal for
moong dal. Vadi are available in most Indian stores.

KACHCHI MIRCH KA GOSHT INCRE

1 kg/2'4 Ib Leg of Spring Lamb
his is a delectable lamb dish, done in a creamy, but ‘hot’ green 2252/1 cup Yoghurt |
peppercorn curry, flavoured with saffron and the rarely used
10g/4 tsp Coriander seeds
fennel.
10g/1 Tbs Cumin seeds _
5g/1% tsp Black Cumin seeds
PREPARATION (Shahi Jeera)
5g/1'%4 tsp Black Peppercoms
Salt
THE LAMB: Clean, debone and cut into I-inch boti.
THE WHOLE SPICES: Pound coriander seeds, cumin seeds, black cumin
Eads Chan =
Whole Garam Masala
seeds and black peppercorns with a pestle. 5 Green Cardamom
THE VEGETABLES: Peel, wash and slice onions. Scrape, wash and chop 1 Black Cardamom
ginger. Remove stems, wash, slit, deseed and chop green chillies. 5 Cloves
1 stick Cinnamon (1-inch)
THE MARINATION: Whisk the yoghurt in a large bowl, add the pounded
1 Bay Leaf
spices and salt, leave the boi in this marinade for at least 30 minutes.
A pinch Mace
THE SAFFRON: Dissolve in 30m1/2 Tbs of lukewarm water.
—Continued
 KHADE MASALE KA GOSHT
34
250g/1'4 cups Onions
20g/2 Tbs Ginger COOKING
4 Green Chillies
10g/1 Tbs Green Peppercorns Heat ghee in a handi, add whole garam masala and saute over medium
’4g/1 tsp Saffron heat until it begins to crackle. Add onions and saute until golden brown.
200m1/% cup Cream Then add ginger, green chillies and green peppercorns, saute for a
minute, add the marinated lamb, alongwith the marinade, add water
5g/1 tsp Fennel powder
(approx 800ml/ 3!4 cups), bring toa boil, cover and simmer until tender.
Now add saffron and cream, bring to a boil. Adjust the seasoning.
Sprinkle fennel powder and stir.

TO SERVE
Serves: 4
Preparation time: 1:05 hours Remove to a dish and serve with an Indian bread of your choice or
Cooking time: 1:20 hours Pulao.

INGREDIENTS
KHADE MASALE KA GOSHT
1 kg/2'% Ib Leg of Spnng Lamb
n eye-pleasing and colourful delicacy, recommended for those
1502/34 cup Ghee
with strong stomachs. The Khada Masala is really ‘hot’.
‘Whole Garam Masala
5 Green Carddmom
1 Black Cardamom PREPARATION
5 Cloves
1 stick Cinnamon (1-inch) THE LAMB: Clean, debone and cut into I-inch doti.
I Bay Leaf
A pinch Mace
THE VEGETABLES: Peel, wash and chop onions. Peel garlic. Scrape,
250g/ 1% cups Onions
wash and shred ginger. Remove stems, wash, slit, deseed and chop only
50g/5
Garlic
Tbs 10 green chillies. Wash and chop tomatoes. Clean, wash and chop
coriander.
50g/5 Tbs Ginger
12 Green Chillies THE WHOLE SPICES: Pound coriander seeds, red chillies and black
peppercorns with a pestle.
5g/2'4 tsp Coriander seeds
4 Whole Red Chillies THE YOGHURT: Whisk in a bowl.
5g/1'%4 tsp Black Peppercorns THE EGGS: Hard boil, cool, shell and cut into quarters.
5g/1 tsp;Cumin powder
5g/1 tsp Black Cumin powder COOKING
300g/1%4
cups Yoghurt
300g/1%
cups Tomatoes — Heat ghee m a handi, add whole garam masala and saute over medium
Sole ee heat until it begins to crackle. Add onions and saute until golden brown.
Then add garlic, ginger and chopped green chillies, stir for 2 minutes,
add lamb, the pounded spices and the cumin. Bhunno until the boti are
brown. Remove the handi, add yoghurt, return to heat and bhunno for 5
minutes. Now add tomatoes, bhunno until the fat leaves the masala, add
water (approx 600ml1/2!4 cups), bring to a boil, cover and simmer until
 KHUMB HARA DHANIA
35
lamb is cooked and the gravy becomes semi-dry. Adjust the seasoning. —20g/!/s cup Coriander
Sprinkle coriander and stir. 2 Eggs

TO SERVE
R di ; ; es Serves: 4
emove to a dish, ee with slit green chillies and egg quarters. Serve Preparation time: | hour
with buttered Naan*. Cooking time: 1:30 hours
*See section on Breads.

KHUMB HARA DHANIA ENGREDIENTS

ee vegetarian curry which highlights the importance of fresh 00g) ale Mise cet)
coriander in Indian cooking. Ina significant departure, use is made 1508/7 cup Ghee
of boiled onion paste, which helps improve the texture and taste of the © Whole Garam Masala
gravy in many a delicacy. 3 ‘Green Caraamom
1 Black Cardamom
5 Cloves
PREPARATION 1 stick Cinnamon (1-inch)
; : 1 Bay Leaf
THE MUSHROOM: Trim, wash, blanch and drain. A pinch Mace
THE VEGETABLES: Scrape, wash and chop two-thirds of the ginger, cut
the rest into juliennes. Remove stems, wash, slit, deseed and chop green paste*
chillies. Clean, wash and chop coriander. 25g/4 tsp Ginger paste
THE YOGHURT: Whisk in a bowl. 25g/4 tsp Garlic paste
30g/3 Tbs Ginger
4 Green Chillies
COOKING
5g/ |tsp Red Chilli powder
Heat ghee in a handi, add whole garam masala and saute over mnedium
3g/'4 tsp Coriander powder

heat until it begins to crackle. Add boiled onion paste, bhunno for 2 350g/114
cups Yoghurt
minutes, add the ginger and garlic pastes—dissolved in 60 ml/% cup of Salt
water—stir for a minute. Add chopped ginger and green chillies, stir for 60g/1
Coriander
cup
30 seconds, add red chillies and coriander powder, stir for 30 seconds. 50g/3 Tbs Cashewnut paste
Remove the handi, add yoghurt and salt, return to heat, add water
(approx 180 ml/34 cup), bring to a boil and then simmer until the fat
leaves the masala. Now add 45g/ 34 cup chopped coriander, simmer fora
minute, add the mushroom, simmer for 2 minutes, add cashewnut paste
and bring to a boil. Adjust the seasoning.
eee
TO SERVE
e
_. i. 3 e
Remove to a dish, garnish with the remaining chopped coriander and Serves: 4
ginger juliennes. Serve with plain boiled rice, Pulao or an Indian bread Preparation time: 40 minutes
of your choice. Cooking time: 8-10 minutes
ooo

*See section on Pastes.

a
eee
a
 ALOO CHUTNEYWALE
36

INGREDIENTS ALOO CHUTNEYWALE

750g/17A lb Potatoes
(medium size) foe outstanding work of culinary art, potatoes stuffed with paneer
Groundnut Oil for frying
and simmered in a tangy chutney, this original dish is certain to
leave the palate tingling.
The Filling
125g/'%4 lb Paneer*
4 Green Chillies PREPARATION
5g/1'4 tsp Ginger
10 Cashewnuts THE POTATOES: Peel, wash and make barrel shapes. Heat oil in a
Salt kadhai and deep fry over medium heat until three-fourths cooked and
light brown in colour. Remove, cool and scoop out the centre leaving 4-
The Chutney inch from the sides.
150g/2%4 cup Coriander THE FILLING: Grate paneer. Remove stems, wash, slit, deseed and finely
30g/1 0z Raw Mangoes chop green chillies. Scrape, wash and finely chop ginger. Crush
75g/
Mint
14 cups cashewnuts. Mix all these ingredients in a bowl, add salt and stuff the
scooped potatoes with the filling.
The Gravy THE CHUTNEY: Clean and wash coriander and mint. Peel and roughly
100g/'4 cup Ghee chop the mangoes. Put coriander and mangoes in a blender and makea
150g/'4 cup Boiled Onion paste, add mint and make a fine paste.
paste** THE GRAVY: Whisk yoghurt in a bowl. Wash and chop tomatoes.
25g/4 tsp Ginger paste
25g/4 tsp Garlic paste
52/134 tsp Cumin seeds COOKING
5g/1 tsp Red Chilli powder
300g/1/ cup Yoghurt
Heat ghee in a handi, add boiled onion paste, stir over medium heat for
100g/'4 cup Tomatoes 30 seconds, add the ginger and garlic pastes—dissolved in 60ml/ 4 cup of
50g/3 Tbs Cashewnut paste water—and stir until the fat leaves the masala. Add cumin, stir for a
10g/2 tsp Garam Masala minute, add the chutney and red chillies, stir for 30 seconds. Then add
Sait yoghurt and water (approx 400ml1/174 cups), bringtoa boil, reduce to
low heat and simmer until the fat leaves the masala. Now add the stuffed
potatoes, simmer until cooked. Add tomatoes, simmer for a minute, add
cashewnut paste and garam masala, stir and bring toa boil. Adjust the
seasoning. Do not cover the handi while cooking.

Serves: 4 TO SERVE
Preparation time: 1:10 hours
Cooking time: 25-30. minutes Remove to a dish and serve with an Indian bread of your choice.

——————CC———e—e=—eE——————e——e=a=_E=EoEeaeEeEeEeEeEeEeEeIyIoIeEeESEeSESESES=S=E=E=E=Ea=aeOOOOeEaSES=_

*See section on Milk.

**See section on Pastes.
 “RASPBERRY’ MATTAR
37

“RASPBERRY’ MATTAR INGREDIENTS

3502/% |b Green Peas
A Chef’s original vegetarian delight of paneer balls— ‘raspberries’ —
and peas, cooked in a mild and rich gravy, which penetrates the The ‘Raspberries’
‘raspberries’ to make them ‘juicy’ like the fruit. 3508/34 |b Paneer*
4 Green Chillies

PREPARATION
l0g/1
GingerTbs
lg/2 tsp Satfron

THE GREEN PEAS: Boil and drain.

60ml/4
cup Milk
3g/14tsp Red Chilli powder
THE ‘RASPBERRIES’: Mash paneer in a bowl. Remove stems, wash, slit,
Sait
epee =" ~
deseed and finely chop green chillies. Scrape, wash and finely chop
ginger. Mix these ingredients with the paneer. Boil milk, add saffron, 50g/?4
Cornflour
cup
reduce by half and then pour on half the reduced saffron milk on the Groundnut Oil for frying
paneer mixture. Add red chillies and salt, mix well. Make small
The Gravy
raspberry-size balls and dust evenly with cornflour. Heat oil ina kadhai
and deep fry the ‘raspberries’ over medium heat until golden brown. 120g/ 74 cup Ghee
150g/%4
cup Boiled Onion
THE GRAVY: Scrape, wash and chop ginger. Remove stems, wash, slit, paste
**
deseed and chop green chillies. Clean, wash and chop coriander. Whisk I5g/2'4 tsp Ginger paste
yoghurt in a bowl. 15g/2'% tsp Garlic paste ©
10g/1 Tbs Ginger
4 Green Chillies
COOKING 5g/1 tsp Red Chilli powder
5g/1 tsp Coriander powder
Heat ghee in a handi, add boiled onion paste, ginger paste and garlic 100g/3'4 oz Fresh Tomato
paste, stir over medium heat for 2 minutes. Add ginger and green Puree
chillies, stir for 2 minutes, add red chillies and coriander powder, 225g/1 cup Yoghurt
bhunno until the fat leaves the masala. Then add tomato puree, bring toa 50g/3 TbsCashewnut paste
boil, reduce to low heat, simmer until the fat leaves the masala again, 60ml/'%4cup Cream
add yoghurt and stir constantly until the fat leaves the masala a third 5g/1 tsp Garam Masala _
time. Now add green peas, boil for 2-3 minutes, add cashewnut paste Salt’, 9. aa a
and cream mixed with the remaining saffron milk and bring to a boil. 20g
Coriander
Ys cup
Reduce to medium heat, add the ‘raspberries’, sprinkle garam masala,
bring to a boil and remove immediately. (Make sure that the ‘raspberries’
are boiled just once and stirred very gently or else they will crumble.)
Adjust the seasoning.

TO SERVE
en nnn EE
Serves: 4
Gently transfer to a dish, garnish with coriander and serve with an Preparation time: 1:20 hours
Indian bread of. your choice. Cooking time: 10-12 minutes

*See section on Milk.

**See section on Pastes.
 KALE MOTI BIRYANI
38
INGREDIENTS KALE MOTI BIRYANI
250g/2'4 cups Basmati Rice
ale Moti—black pearls— Biryani is truly a jewel in this collection of
800m1/3 /3 cups Milk handi delicacies. Bengal gram simmered in gravy and basmati rice,
Whole Garam Masala
layer upon layer, make for a royal treat.
5 Green Cardamom
1 Black Cardamom
5 Cloves
] stick Cinnamon (1-inch) PREPARATION
1 Bay Leaf
A pinch Mace THE RICE: Pick, wash in running water and soak for 30 minutes. Drain.
Salt THE BENGAL GRAM: Soak overnight in a pan. Drain. Replenish with
fresh water, add salt and soda bi-carb and boil until cooked. Drain and
keep aside.
The Kale Moti
THE GRAVY: Whisk yoghurt in a bowl. Wash and chop tomatoes. Peel,
250g/1% cups Bengal Gram wash and cut potatoes into 34-inch cubes. Remove stems, wash, slit,
Salt deseed and chop green chillies.
A pinch Soda bi-carb THE GARNISH: Clean, wash and chop coriander and mint. Scrape, wash
100g/'4 cup Ghee and cut ginger into juliennes. Remove stems, wash, slit and deseed green
15/24 tsp Ginger paste chillies. Wash and cut tomatoes into quarters. Whisk yoghurt in a bowl,
10g/134 tsp Garlic paste add garam masala, cardamom powder and half the saffron. Dissolve the
3g/14tsp Red Chilli powder reamining saffron in warm milk.
2g) Y3 tsp Turmeric THE OVEN: Pre-heat to 350°F.
2002/34 cup Yoghurt
125g/4 cup Tomatoes 5
125g/5 oz Potatoes COOKING
3 Green Chillies
To prepare rice, boil water (approx | litre/4 cups) and milk together ina
The Garnish handi, add whole garam masala, salt and rice, cook until almost done (7-
8 minutes).
30g/ 4% cup Coriander
20g/ Vs cup Mint To prepare Bengal gram, heat ghee in a handi, add ginger paste, garlic
paste, red chillies and turmeric—all dissolved in 50ml/3 Tbs of water—and
15g/4¥4
tsp Ginger saute over medium heat for two minutes. Remove the handi, add yoghurt,
6 Green Chillies
tomatoes, potatoes and green chillies, return to heat and stir constantly
1002/34 oz Tomatoes until the gravy becomes thick and the fat leaves the masala. Then add the
25g/4 Tbs Fried Onions — boiled gram and simmer until the gravy coats the gram and potatoes.
100g/%
cup Yoghurt Adjust the seasoning.
5g/1 tsp Garam Masala
A pinch Green Cardamom
powder
ASSEMBLING
1g/2 tsp Saffron
60ml1/'% cup Milk
In the handi with the Bengal gram, sprinkle the garnish of coriander,
mint, ginger, green chillies, tomatoes and fried onions and pour the
spiced yoghurt on top. Spread the rice evenly over the garnished gram.
Sprinkle the saffron milk, place a moist cloth on top, cover witha lid and
seal with atta-dough.
SLATER TRA ESI LES EST EE ETT SE EE EE TS LS LT ET I EE IE TTD
 bail

Kee

i ON
aA

Shika
4
Murgh Navrattan
 KADHAI JHINGA

FINISHING

Put the sealed handi on dum in the pre-heated oven for 15-20 minutes.

TO SERVE

Break the seal, remove the moist cloth and shift the rice from one side Serves: 4
(just enough to remove the cooked gram). Make a bed of gram on the Preparation time: 45 minutes
serving dish, spread the rice on top and serve. Cooking time: 1:25 ho irs

Kadhai
KADHAI JHINGA INGREDIENTS
750g/ 124 lb Prawns
jwain-flavoured prawns done in an abundance of tomatoes, as is (medium size)
most kadhai cooking, Kadhai Jhinga is a colourful dish. 90g/7 Tbs Ghee rei Ta
160g/1 cup Onions a
20g/3% tsp Garlic paste _
PREPARATION
8Whole Red Chillies
4g/2
Coriander
tsp seeds ~
THE PRAWNS: Shell, devein, wash and pat dry.
5g/2 tsp Ajwain
THE VEGETABLES: Peel, wash and chop onions. Wash and chop 750/33 cups Tomati-cs —
tomatoes. Scrape, wash and chop ginger. Remove stems, wash, slit,
deseed and chop green chillies. Clean, wash and chcp coriander.
40g/'4 cup Ginger
6Green Chillies
THE WHOLE SPICES: Pound red chillies and coriander seeds with a pestle. Salt fallaes
10g/2 tsp Garam masala_
COOKING
5g/1'$
Fenugreek
tsp
(Kasoori Mechi)
60m1/4 Tbs Lemon juice
Heat ghee in a kadhai, add onions and saute over medium heat until 20g/¥/3 cup Coriander
golden brown. Add garlic paste, stir for 15 seconds, add the pounded
spices and ajwain, stir for 30 seconds. Then add tomatoes, bring to a —Continus !

boil, add three-fourths of the ginger and green chillies, reduce to

medium heat and bhunno until the fat icaves the sasata. Now add
prawns and continue to bhunno until the fat leaves the gravy and the
prawns are cooked. (In case there is some liquid left, reduce the gravy over
 KADHAI MURGH
qn SSS
40
high heat.) Adjust the seasoning. Sprinkle garam masala, fenugreek and
lemon juice, stir.

TO SERVE
Serves: 4
Preparation time: 40-45 minutes Remove to a dish, garnish with the remaining ginger and coriander and
Cooking time: 20 minutes serve with an Indian bread of your choice.

INGREDIENTS
KADHAI MURGH
1 kg/2'% Ib Chicken (2 birds)
90g/7
Ghee”Tbs K adhai cooking originated with this ‘hot’ chicken delicacy, cooked
in tomatoes. The predominant flavour: fenugreek and coriander.
20g/ 3'4 tsp Garlic paste
8Chillies
Whole Red
6g/1 Tbs Coriander seeds
Ikg/2%
lb Tomatoes PREPARATION
4 Green Chillies
40g/% cup Ginger THE CHICKEN: Clean, remove the skin and cut each into 8 pieces.
30g/'%4
Coriander
cup THE VEGETABLES: Wash and chop tomatoes. Remove stems, wash, slit,
10g/2 tsp Garam Masala ~ deseed and chop green chillies. Scrape, wash and chop ginger. Clean,
4g/1 tsp Fenugreek wash and chop coriander.
(Kasoori Methi)
THE WHOLE SPICES: Pound red chillies and coriander seeds with a pestle.
Salt

COOKING

Heat ghee in a kadhai, add garlic paste and saute over medium heat until
light brown. Add the pounded spices, stir for 30 seconds, add tomatoes,
bring to a boil, add green chillies, three-fourths of the ginger and one-
third of the chopped coriander, reduce the heat and simmer for 4-5
minutes. Then add chicken, bring to a boil, simmer, stirring
occasionally, until the fat leaves the masala, the gravy becomes thick
and chicken is tender. Sprinkle garam masala and fenugreek, stir for 2
minutes. Adjust the seasoning.

TO SERVE
nS
Serves: 4
Preparation time: 45 minutes Remove to a dish, garnish with the remaining ginger and coriander,
Cooking time: 20-22 minutes serve with an Indian bread of your choice.
ELSA AS RTT PRAT LESS TOT TET AE TT TOE STE LN ET A SE SI ST a ES STE AN FS SET PP ESE ISITE
 NARIAL KA GOSHT
4]

NARIAL KA GOSHT INGRFDIENTS

1 kg/2% lo LegofSpring Lamb
| amb cooked with coconut and flavoured with fennel—a rare 150g/34
cup Ghee |
aromatic combination. Whole Garam Masaia
5 Green Cardamom
1 Black Cardamom
PREPARATION 5 Cloves
] stick Cinnamon (1-inch)
THE LAMB: Clean, debone and cut into 34-inch chunks. 1 Bay Leaf
A pinch Mace
THE VEGETABLES: Peel, wash and slice onions. Scrape, wash and cut
20g/3'4 tsp Garlic paste
einger into Juliennes. Remove stems, wash, slit, deseed and chop green
chillies. Wash and finely chop tomatoes. 400g/2/3 cups Onions
10g/1 Tbs Ginger
THE COCONUT: Remove the brown skin and grate.
6 Green Chillies
THE CURRY LEAVES: Wash and dry. Heat oil in a pan and deep fry,
5g/1 tsp Red Chilli powder
Remove.
150g/2'4 cups Coconut :
THE WHOLE RED CHILLIES: Cut into juliennes for garnish.
16 Curry Leaves
Groundnut
Oil tofry
COOKING 3502/14 cups Tomatoes
Salt
Heat ghee in a kadhai, add whole garam masala and saute over medium 5g/1 tsp Fennel powder
heat until it begins to crackle. Add garlic, stir for 15 seconds, add onions 4 Whole Red Chillies
and saute until light brown, add ginger and green chillies, continue to
saute until onions becoine golden brown. Then add red chillies, coconut
(reserve a little for garnish) and the curry leaves, saute for a minute, add
tomatoes and bhunno until the fat leaves the masala. Nowadd the lamb
chunks, bhunno for 5 minutes, add water (approx 800ml/3'% cups),
bring to a boil, cover and simmer until tender and the liquid has
evaporated. Adjust the seasoning. Sprinkle fennel powder and stir.
i

TO SERVE
Serves: 4
Remove to a dish, garnish with red chilli juliennes and the reserved Preparation time: 40 minutes
coconut, serve with an Indian bread of your choice. Cooking time: 1:15 hours
 KADHAI GOSHT HUSSAINEE
aS

INGREDIENTS KADHAI GOSHT HUSSAINEE

4502/1 lb Leg of Spring
Lamb
his is a Chef’s original—a mild kadhai dish, which makes it uriique. It
4502/1 lb Lamb Liver
is one of the few recipes of the genre which make use of yoghurt,
almond paste and cream.
225g/1 cup Yoghurt
5g/1 tsp Red Chilli powder
5g/1 tsp Coriander powder PREPARATION
Salt
150g/% cup Ghee THE LAMB: Clean, debone and cut into 34-inch chunks.
200g/ 14 cups Onions
THE LAMB LIVER: Clean and \cut into 34-inch chunks.
30g/3 Tbs Ginger
THE MARINATION: Whisk yoghurt in a large bowl, add red chill:
1Sg/4'4 tsp Garlic
powder, coriander powder and salt, mix well. Leave the lamb chunks in
3 Green Chillies
this marinade for at least 30 minutes.
5g/1%4 tsp Cumin seeds
THE VEGETABLES; Clean, wash and slice three-fourths of the onions, cut
5g/1% tsp Mustard seeds
the rest into dices. Scrape, wash and chop ginger. Peel and chop garlic.
5g/2'4 tsp Coriander seeds Remove stems, wash, slit and deseed green chillies Remove stems, cut
50g/3 Tbs Almond paste into halves, deseed and dice capsicum. Wash and dice tomatoes. Clean,
50m1/3 Tbs Cream wash and chop coriander.
’rg/1 tsp Saffron THE CORIANDER SEEDS: Pound with a pestle.
30ml/2 Tbs Milk
THE SAFFRON: Dissolve in warm milk.
3g/1 tsp Fenugreek
(Kasoori Methi)
32/'4 tsp Green Cardamom COOKING
powder
50g/20z Capsicum Heat ghee in a kadhai, add the sliced onions and saute over medium heat
50g/% cup Tomatoes until light brown. Add ginger, garlic and green chillies, continue to saute
10g/2 Tbs Coriander until onions become golden brown, add cumin, mustard seeds and
pounded coriander, stir for 15 seconds, add the marinated lamb,
alongwith the marinade, add water (approx | litre/4 cups), bring toa
boil, cover and simmer until the chunks are three-fourths cooked. Then
add liver and simmer until lamb is tender and the liquid has evaporated.
Now add almond paste, dissolved in cream, bring to a boil, reduce to
medium heat, add saffron, stir, sprinkle fenugreek and cardamom
powder, stir. Adjust the seasoning. Add dices of onions and capsicum,
stir for 2 minutes, add tomatoes and stir for a minute.

TO SERVE
Serves: 4
Preparation time: | hour Remove to a dish, garnish with coriander and serve with an Indian
Cooking time: 45-50 minutes bread of your choice.
 DAHI KA KHEEMA
43
DAHI KA KHEEMA INCREDIENTS
| kg/2'4 lb Lamb Mince
mince delicacy with a difference: cooked with yoghurt and
150/%
Ghee cup
flavoured with the unusual combination of cloves and cinnamon
powder. Whole
Garam Masala
5 Green Cardamom
1 Black Cardamom
J Cloves
PREPARATION
I stick Cinnamon (1-inch)
1 Bay Leaf
THE VEGETABLES: Peel, wash and finely chop onions. Clean, wash and A pinch Mace
chop coriander. 200g/1%
cups Onions
THE YOGHURT: Whisk in a bowl with cinnamon and clove powder. 25g/4 tsp Ginger paste
THE GREEN CHILLIES: Remove stems, wash, slit and deseed. Heat oilina 25g/4 tsp Garlic paste
pan and deep fry for 15-20 seconds. Remove. 10g/2 tsp Red Chilli powder
300g/!%s cups Yoghurt
3g/'4 tsp Cinnamon powder
COOKING
2g 3 tsp Clove powder
Salt
Heat ghee in a kadhai, add whole garam masala and saute over medium
heat until it begins to crackle. Add onions, saute until brown, add the
20g//
Coriander
cup
ginger and garlic pastes, dissolved in 60ml/'% cup of water, stir for 30 15 Green Chillies
seconds, add red chillies and stir for 114 minutes. Then add the mince Groundnut Oi] to fry
and bhunno until dry and the liquid has evaporated. Now add the spiced
yoghurt, bring to a boil, cover and simmer until the lamb is cooked.
Adjust the seasoning. Sprinkle half each of the coriander and green
chillies, stir.

TO SERVE
Serves: 4
Remove to a dish, garnish with the remaining coriander and green Preparation time: 25 minutes
chillies, serve with an Indian bread of your choice. Cooking time: 20-22 minutes

LAZIZ KHUMB INGREDIENTS

600g/ 1'/3 lb Mushroom (fresh)
t is inconceivable not to create something for the veg”‘arians. Laziz 150g/%
cup Ghee
A Khumb is a combination of mushroom (khumb), cabbage and 100g/1 cup Cabbage
capsicum.
20g/3'4 tsp Gartic paste
4 Whole Red Chillies
PREPARATION 5g/
Coriander
24 tsp seeds
750g/3Y3 cups Tomatoes
THE MUSHROOM: Slice off earthy base ofthe stalk, cut into quarters and
wash just prior to cooking. Heat 20g/5 tsp ghee in a pan and saute over — Continued

LS LEESON TLL TREE ED SLES IEE PPLM ERELESLIE DEOL TEE EEE LD TEDL ETE ATEMLE ISELLOS LEE LTALY DLL DIEEEE DELLE NG LE ER DED CALI NAL LLL LL LEALLEL LIED SESEPL LIE LLLIALLIVE ISALT
 MAKKI-KHUMB MASALA
44 _

4 Green Chillies medium heat for 4-5 minutes. Drain.

30g/3 Tbs Ginger THE CABBAGE: Wash and shred. Heat 20g/5 tsp ghee in a kadhai and
20g/scup Coriander saute over medium heat until the liquid has evaporated. Remove
100g 24 cup Onions cabbage and reserve the ghee.
40g) 1'4 oz Capsicum vs THE REMAINING VEGETABLES: Wash and chop tomatoes. Remove
Salt stems, wash, slit, deseed and chop green chillies. Scrape, wash and chop
10g/2 tsp Garam Masala ginger. Clean, wash and chop coriander. Peel, wash and slice onions.
Remove stems, cut capsicum into halves, deseed and make juliennes.
THE WHOLE SPICES: Pound red chillies and coriander seeds with a
pestle.

COOKING

Reheat the reserved ghee (plus 50g/!4 cup) in a kadhai, add garlic paste
and stir over medium heat for 20 seconds. Add the pounded spices, stir
for 30 seconds, add tomatoesand bhunno until the fat leaves the masala.
Then add green chillies, ginger and half the coriander, stir.
Heat the remaining ghee in a separate kadhai, add onions and saute over
medium heat until transparent. Add capsicum and saute for 1!4-2
minutes. Transfer the masala from the first kadhai, add mushrooms and
cabbage, stir constantly for 3-4 minutes. Adjust the seasoning. Sprinkle
garam masala and the remaining coriander, stir.

Serves: 4
TO SERVE
Preparation time: 40 minutes
Cooking time: 18 minutes. Remove to a dish and serve with an Indian bread of your choice.

INGREDIENI'S MAKKI-KHUMB MASALA

2502/9 oz Corn
colourful maize and mushroom combination cooked with fresh
450g/1 Ib Mushroom (fresh)
herbs. In a significant departure from traditional kadhai cooking,
150g/%
cup Ghee this vegetarian delicacy—another chef’s original—is prepared without
200g/1%
cups Onions pounded spices and fenugreek.
30g/3 Tos Ginger
4 Green Chillies
25g/4 tsp Ginger paste PREPARATION
25g/4 ‘sp Garlic paste
10x/2 tsp Red Chilli powder THE CORN: Soak the niblets in a pan full of water for 3-4 hours.
450g/1 lb Tomatoes Then boil until tender. If canned niblets are available, drain the brine
and nat dry.
THE MUSHROOM: Slice off earthy base of the stalk and wash just prior
to cooking.

meena ae
SS
KADHAI PANEER
SSS
eee SSS Ss Si SD
a Ta aeae

THE VEGETABLES: Peel, wash and chop onions. Scrape, wash and chop Salt
ginger. Remove stems, wash, slit, deseed and chop green chillies. Wash
30g/1 oz Capsicum
and chop 400g/14 oz tomatoes, cut the rest into quarters. Remove 10g/2-tsp Garam Masala
stems, wash, cut capsicum into halves, deseed and make dices.
———————
eee

COOKING
eee eee enene em Macemmncemen ete PSI wll Thdel Ab? else,
Heat ghee in a kadhai, add onions and saute over medium heat until
golden brown. Add ginger and green chillies, stir for 15-20 seconds, add
ginger paste, garlic paste and red chillies—all dissolved in 60ml/'4 cup of
water—and stir for a minute. Then add tomatoes, bhunno until the fat
leaves the masala, add corn and mushrooms, bring to a boil and
simmer until the liquid has evaporated. Adjust the seasouing. Now add
capsicum, stir for a minute, add the remaining tomatoes and stir.
Sprinkle garam masala and stir.

TO SERVE Serves: 4
Preparation time: 6 hours
Remove to a dish and serve with an Indian bread of your choice. Cooking time: 20-22 minutes

KADHAI PANEER INGREDIENTS

6002/13 lb +Paneer*
he piece de resistance among vegetarian recipes in the kadhai genre
40g/3 Tbs Ghee a
of cooking, Kadhai Paneer is chilli-hot, semi-dry and colourful.
25g/1
Capsicum
oz
5Chillies
Whole Red
PREPARATION 5g/2!4
Coriander
tsp seeds
15g/4 tsp Ginger
THE PANEER: Cut into fingers. 550ml/190z Kadhai Gravy**
THE VEGETABLES: Remove stems, wash, cut capsicum into halves, AFenugreek
pinch
deseed and make juliennes. Scrape, wash and chop two-thirds of the (Kasoori Methi)
ginger, cut the rest into juliennes for garnish. Clean, wash and chop 5g/1 tsp Garam Masala _
coriander. 15g/%
Coriander
cup
THE WHOLE SPICES: Pound red chillies and coriander seeds with a Salt

pestle.
—Continued

COOKING

Heat ghee in a kadhai, add capsicum and saute over medium heat for 30
seconds. Add the pounded spices and chopped ginger, stir for 30
seconds. Then add Kadhai Gravy, bring to a boil and bhunno until the fat
RS A A BE ST ES ETT I EES PE TL EID LE ETE DEDEDE LIE ODED EELELEEEE NEE LETS LIE ARE DEED LILLE LE LAE LEDS
 KA DHAI CHHOLEY
46
leaves the masala. Now add paneer and stir gently for 2-3 minutes.
Sprinkle fenugreek and garam masala, stir. Adjust the seasoning.

Serves: 4
TO SERVE
Preparaiion time: !0 minutes
(Plus time taken for Kadhai
Gravy) Remove to a dish, garnish with ginger juliennes and coriander, serve
Cooking time: 8-10 minutes with Naan, Paratha or Phulka***,

*See section on Milk.

**See section on Gravies.
***See section on Breads.

INGREDIENTS
KADHAI CHHOLEY
250g/1% cups White Gram
A
bi-carb
pinch Soda hite gram, cooked in the kadhai, is unquestionably the most
Shite Sit paRee versatile delicacy in the north of India. A veritable one-dish meal,
it can be Served at any time of day—or night, for break fast—or high tea,
1002/4
cup Ghee”
as an entree—or a snack.
30g/5 tsp Garlic paste
8Whole Red Chillies
10g/5
Coriander
tsp seeds PREPARATION
750g/3'/3 cups Tomatoes
4GreenChillies THE WHITE GRAM: Pick, wash, soak overnight in a Aandi, drain and
40g/'4 cup Ginger replenish with fresh water. Add soda bi-carb and salt, boil until tender.
30g/% cup Coriander Drain.
Tbsl
30m juice
/n 2
Lemo THE VEGETABLES: Wash and chop tomatoes. Remove stems, wash, slit,
mamsala _
10g/2 tsp Gara deseed and chop green chillies. Scrape, wash and chop ginger. Clean,
3g/% tsp Fenugreek wash and chop coriander.
(Kasoori Methi) THE WHOLE SPICES: Pound red chillies and coriander seeds with a
pestle.

COOKING

Heat ghee in a kadhai, add garlic paste and stir over medium heat for a
minute. Add the pounded spices and stir for 15-20 seconds. Then add
tomatoes, bring to a boil, add green chillies, three-fourths of the ginger
and one-third of the chopped coriander, reduce to medium heat and
bhunno until the fat leaves the masala. Now add the boiled white gram and
bhunno for another 5 minutes. Adjust the seasoning. Sprinkle lemon
juice, garam masala and fenugreek, stir.
nem
re
 DAL KABILA
~ ne
Neen eceascos ematemeereee ameeease seems OE

TO SERVE
: ; i. Serves: 4
Remove to a dish, garnish with the remaining coriander and ginger, — Preparation time:45minutes
serve with Pooris, Bhaturas*, even slices of bread. Cooking time: 20-22 minutes

*See section on Breads.

DAL KABILA INGREDIENTS

250g/1% cups Urad dal
tomato-based lentil delicacy, remarkable for its fresh taste—thanks 50g/%4 cup Ghee
to the abundant use of coriander and ginger.
30g/5 tsp Garlic paste
8 Whole Red Chillies
PREPARATION 10g/5
Coriander
tsp seeds
750g/3'/3 cups Tomatoes .
THE LENTIL: Pick, wash in running water and soak in a handi for 2 30g/'4 cup Coriander
hours. Drain, replenish with fresh water (approx 3 litres/ 12'4 cups) and 4 Green Chillies
boil until tender. Drain. 25g/7'4 tsp Ginger
THE VEGETABLES: Wash and chop tomatoes. Clean, wash and chop Salt
coriander. Remove stems, wash, slit, deseed and chop green chillies. 100g/7 Tbs Butter
Scrape, wash and chop ginger. 10g/2 tsp Garam Masala
THE WHOLE SPICES: Pound red chillies and coriander seeds with a 5g/1% tsp Fenugreek
(Kasoori Methi)
pestle.
30m1/2
Tbs Lemon juice ~

COOKING

Heat ghee in a kadhai, add garlic paste and saute over medium heat until
golden brown. Add the pounded spices and stir for 15-20 seconds. Then
add tomatoes, bring to a boil, add two-thirds of the chopped coriander,
green chillies and ginger, reduce to medium heat and bhunno until the
fat leaves the masala, add the boiled lentil and bhunno for 5 minutes.
Adjust the seasoning. Now add butter, stir, sprinkle garam masala,
fenugreek, lemon juice and the remaining coriander, stir for 5 minutes,
mashing the lentil with the back of the ladle occasionally.
LT

TO SERVE Serves: 4
nent aaa
Preparation time: 2:45 hours
Remove to a dish and serve with an Indian bread of your choice. Cooking time: 15 minutes
nae
aaassaaassasasa,
Seen eee EEE
 JHINGA MASALA
48

Tawa
INGREDIENTS JHINGA MASALA
lkg/2% lb Prawns
(medium size) Pa elevates this prawn delicacy from the ordinary to a gourmet’s
75g/6 Tbs Ghee delight. The ease of preparation makes it all the more attractive.
5g/ 2 tsp Ajwain
200g/1'%4 cups Onions PREPARATION
4 Green Chillies
10g/1 Tbs Ginger
THE PRAWNS: Shell, devein, wash and pat dry.
5g/1tsp Red Chilli powder
THE VEGETABLES: Peel, wash and chop onions. Remove stems, wash,
slit, deseed and chop green chillies. Scrape, wash and chop ginger.
300ml1/11 oz Makhani Gravy*
Clean, wash and chop coriander.
Salt Sane ANE WF
30ml/2 Tbs Lemon juice
5g/1 tsp Garam Masala COOKING

Heat ghee ona large tawa, add prawns and saute over medium heat for
2-3 minutes. Remove from the centre of the tawa and place on the
periphery. To the same ghee, add ajwain and when it begins to crackle,
add onions, green chillies and ginger, saute for 3 minutes. Return the
prawns to the centre, add red chillies and two-thirds of the coriander,
bhunno for a minute. Add the Makhani Gravy and bhunno until
prawns are cooked and napped in the gravy. Adjust the seasoning.
Sprinkle lemon juice, garam masala and the remaining coriander, stir.
Serves: 4
Preparation time: 20 minutes
(Plus time taken for Makhani TO SERVE
Gravy)
Cooking time: 8-9 minutes Remove to a dish and serve with an Indian bread of your choice.

*See section on Gravies.

INGREDIENTS
SAMUDRI KHAZANA TAK-A-TAK
250g/9 oz Prawns (medium
size his bountiful seafood delight owes its cute name to the sound that
250g/9 oz Crab Meat metal spatulae make (takka-tak, takka-tak...) during the process of
250g/9 oz Fish cooking.
 SAMUDRI KHAZANA TAK-A-TAK

100g/3'4 0z Seafood Mince

PREPARATION 75g/6 Tbs Ghee
52/2 tsp Ajwain
THE SEAFOOD: Shell, devein, wash and pat dry prawns. Takea variety of i00g/?/ cupOnions
non-fatty fish of your choice, remove scales, wash, debone and cut into 10g/1 Tbs Ginger
J-inch chunks. Use the trimmings to make the seafood mince. 4 Green Chillies
THE VEGETABLES: Peel, wash and chop onions. Scrape, wash and chop 8Chillies
Whole Red
ginger. Remove stems, wash, slit, deseed and chop green chillies. Boil, 5g/
Coriander
24 tsp seeds
cool, peel and roughly cut potatoes. Clean, wash and chop coriander. 150g/1 cup Potatoes
THE WHOLE SPICES: Pound redchillies and coriander seeds with a pestle. 300ml/ 11 oz Kadhai Gravy*
oe
orera ae
30ml1/2 Tbs Lemon juice
COOKING 5g/1 tsp Garam Masala
2Gg/'Acup Coriander
Heat ghee on a large tawa, add prawns, crab and fish, saute over
medium heat for 2 minutes. Remove from the centre of the tawa and
place on the periphery. To the same ghee, add ajwain and when it begins
to crackle, add onions, ginger and green chillies, reduce to low heat and
saute for 2-3 minutes. Add the pounded spices and seafood mince, saute
for 30 seconds, return prawns, crab and fish to the centre and add
potatoes. With two metal spatulae, held vertically, chop the seafood and
potatoes. After every few strokes, stir and fold the mixture. Now add the
Kadhai Gravy and bhunno for 2-3 minutes until the gravy becomes
thick. Adjust the seasoning. Sprinkle lemon juice, garam masala and
chopped coriander, stir.
Serves: 4
Preparation time: 40 minutes
TO SERVE (Plus time taken for Kadhai
Gravy)
Remove to a dish and serve with an Indian bread of your choice. Cooking time: 9-10 minutes

*See section on Gravies.

 MURGH TAWA MASALA
SS

INGREDIENTS MURGH TAWA MASALA

ikg/2\% lb Chicken (2 birds)
ys cae meal with a difference—done in a smooth sauce with
302/5 tsp Ginger paste
crushed peppercorns.
30g/ 5 tsp Garlic paste
Salt
75ml/5 Tbs Groundnut Oil PREPARATION
100g/'4 cup Ghee
160g/I
cup Onions THE CHICKEN: Clean. remove the skin and cut each into 16 pieces.
15g/4% tsp Ginger THE MARINATION: Mix the ginger paste, garlic paste and salt with
6Green Chillies groundnut oil in a tray and rub the chicken pieces with this marinade.
5g/1 tsp Red Chilli powder Keep aside for at least 30 minutes.
10g/1 Tbs
Peppercoms
Black THE VEGETABLES: Clean, wash and chop onions. Scrape, wash and
300ml/ 11 oz Makhani Gravy* chop ginger. Remove stems, wash, slit, deseed and chop green chillies.
5g/1 tsp Garam Masala _ Clean, wash and chop coriander.
20g/ /%3 cup Coriander THE PEPPERCORNS: Crush with a pestle or in a pepper-mill.

COOKING

Heat ghee on a large tawa, add the marinated chicken, alongwith the
marinade, and stir over medium heat for 10 minutes. Remove from the
centre of the tawa and place on the periphery. To the same ghee, add
onions, ginger, green chillies, red chillies and black peppercorns, stir for
a minute. Return the chicken to the centre and bhunno for 2 minutes
(sprinkle a little water if the chicken tends to stick). Add Makhani Gravy
and bhunno until chicken is tender and napped in the yravy. Sprinkle
garam masala and coriander, stir. Adjust the seasoning.
Serves: 4
Preparation time: 25 minutes
(Plus time taken for Makhani TO SERVE
Gravy)
Cooking time: 15 minutes Remove to a dish and serve with an Indian bread of your choice.

*See section on Gravies.

INGREDIENTS
MURGH GALOUTI
The Galouti
675g/1'4 Ib Chicken
pea a ball made from fine mince of any meat. Murgh Galouti is
(finely minced) a delicacy of chicken balls simmered in a cream-based Shahi (royal)
Gravy.
 MURGH GALOUTI

10g/1 Tbs Ginger

PREPARATION 3 Green Chillies
208/ Y; cup Coriander
THE GALOUTI: Scrape, wash and finely chop ginger. Kemove stems, 5g/1 tsp Garam Masala
wash, slit, deseed and finely chop green chillies. Clean, wash and chop Salt
coriander. Mix the vegetables with the chicken mince, add garam
50g/3 Tbs Cashewnut
paste
masala, salt and cashewnut paste, knead well. Divide the mixture into 24
50g/2 cup Cornflour
equal portions to make galouti of |-inch diameter. Roll in cornflour.
Groundnut
Oil for frying _
Heat oil in a kadhai and deep fry galouti until golden brown. Remove.
The Masala
THE MASALA: Peel, wash and chop onions. Scrape, wash and chop
ginger. Remove stems, wash, slit, deseed and chop green chillies. Clean, 100g/ 4 cup Ghee
wash and chop coriander. 160g/1
cup Onions
10g/1
Tbs Ginger
3 Green Chillies
COOKING 2g/'4 tsp Turmeric
300ml/11 0z Shahi Gravy*
Heat ghee on a la:ge tawa, add onions, ginger and green chillies, 90ml/6 Tbs Cream
saute over medium heat for 2-3 minutes. Add turmeric, stir for 15 10g/2
Coriander
Tbs
seconds, add Shahi Gravy and bhunno for a minute. Then add the galouti 2g/'/s tspNutmeg and Mace
and stir for a minute with extreme care as they are likely to crumble. powder
Now add cream and stir gently for a minute. Sprinkle coriander and
Salt
nutmeg and mace powder, stir gently. Adjust the seasoning.

Serves: 4
TO SERVE
Preparation time: 20 minutes
(Plus time taken for Shahi
Gently remove galouti to a dish and pour on the gravy. Serve with an Gravy)
Indian bread of your choice. Cooking time: 5-6 minutes

——————___——————_—_—_—_—SSSS_S>=a>=a=a~eEamahaeE~_y_oe—>es=_—ah_~a]_aes_]—s|]yses—>—]/_——_—_—_—_—_—_—_—s_——_—_—_—>

*See section on Gravies.

 GOSHT PASANDA PAYA RAS
Lppeas

INGREDJENTS GOSHT PASANDA PAYA RAS

1.2kg/
274 lb Leg of Spring
delicacy of lamb picatta, napped in a masala rich in herbs and
Lamb
spices, simmered in paya ras (trotter stock) and cooked on a
25g/4 tsp Ginger paste
tawa. It is light and its freshness is guaranteed to stimulate the palate.
25g/4 tsp Garlic paste
10g/2 tsp Garam masala
5g/1 tsp Red Chilli powder PREPARATION
Salt
75ml/5 Tbs Groundnut Oil THE LAMB: Clean, debone and cut into 14-inch chunks. Flatten the
chunks into 4-inch thick picatta—pasanda.
The Paya Ras
THE MARINATION: Mix the ginger and garlic pastes, garam masala, red
8 Lamb Trotters chillies and salt with the groundnut oil and rub the picatta with this
30g/1 oz Carrots marinade. Keep aside for at least 14 hours.
40g/%4 cup Onions THE PAYA RAS: Clean, wash and blanch trotters in a large pan. Drain.
Whole Garam Masala Peel, wash and dice carrots. Peel, wash and chop cnions. Add the
5 Green Cardamom carrots and onions to the trotters, alongwith whole garam masala, and
1 Black Cardamom refill the pan with 4 litres/ 1674cups of water. Bring to a boil, cover and
5 Cloves
simmer for 2 hours. Discard the trotters. Strain the stock, skim off the fat
I stick Cinnamon (l-inch)
and allow it to simmer on the side.
I Bay Leaf
A pinch Mace THE MASALA: Peel, wash and chop onions. ‘Scrape, wash and chop
ginger. Remove stems, wash, slit, deseed and chop green chillies. Clean,
The Masala wash and chop coriander.
100g; 4 cup Ghee
100g/'Acup Onions COOKING
10g/1 Tbs Ginger
3 Green Chillies
Heat ghee ona large tawa, saute the marinated pasanda.over low heat
Sat for approximately five minutes. Remove from the centre of the tawa’and
5g/1 tsp Garam Masala _ place on the periphery. To the same ghee add onions, ginger and green
30ml/2 Tbs Lemon juice — chillies, saute over medium heat for 2-3 minutes. Return the picatta
20g/'/3 cup Coriander to the centre, saute for a minute before pouring on the paya ras (approx
400ml1/ 124 cups). Simmer until the picatta are tender and the stock is
almost reduced. Adjust the seasoning. Sprinkle garam masala, lemon
juice and half the coriander, stir.

TO SERVE
Serves: 4
Preparation time: 2 hours Arrange the pasanda, overlapping, on a flat dish, pour on the gravy,
Cooking time: 10-12 minutes garnish with the remaining coriander and serve with Kulcha or Phulka*

*See section on Breads.

 GOSHT BANJARA
53

GOSHT BANJARA INGREDIENTS

1 kg/2'4 lb LegofSpring Lamb
ae Hyderabadi style of cooking has in no small measure influenced
5g/l
Saltpetre
tsp
this lamb delight, cooked in pounded spices.
Whole Garam Masala __
5 Green Cardamom
1 Black Cardamom
PREPARATION 5: Cloves
1 stick Cinnamon (1-inch)
THE LAMB: Clean, debone and cut into 34-inch cubes. Put the cubes ina 1 Bay Leaf
handi add saltpetre, whole garam masala and water (approx 3 A pinch Mace
litres/ 12'4 cups), bring to a boil, cover and simmer until lamb is tender. 100g/ 4 cup Ghee
100g/24cup Onions
THE VEGETABLES: Peel, wash and chop onions. Remove stems, wash,
slit, deseed and chop green chillies. Scrape, wash and chop ginger. 4 Green Chillies

Clean, wash and chop coriander. 30g/3 Tbs Ginger

5g/2'4 tsp Coriander seeds
THE WHOLE SPICES: Pound coriande: seeds and red chillies with a
4 Whaoie Red Chillies
pestle.
15g/'%4 cup Coriander
300m!)/ 11 oz Kadhai Gravy*
COOKING Sate
et ae 2
2g/'4 tsp Fenugreek
Heat ghee on a large tawa, add onions, green chillies and ginger, saute
(Kasoori Methi)
over medium heat for 2 minutes. Add the- pounded spices
5g/1 tsp Garam Masala _
and chopped coriander, stir for 15 seconds, add lamb cubes, reduce to
low heat and bhunno for a minute. Then add the Kadhai Gravy and
bhunno until the gravy becomes thick and coats the cubes. Adjust the
seasoning. Sprinkle fenugreek and garam masala, stir.
Serves: 4
Preparation time: | hour
| TO SERVE
(Plus fime taken for Kadhai
Gravy)
Remove to a dish, serve with Naan or Phulka**. Cooking time: 5-6 minutes

*See section on Gravies.

**See section on Breads.

GOSHT-KE-KHAJE INGREDIENTS
2 Lamb Brain
IOSHT-KE-KHAJE is a rare delicacy made from. brain, liver and 200g/7 oz Lamb Liver
kidneys.
200g/7 oz Lamb Kidneys
2002/7 oz Lamb Mince
PREPARATION 22/3 tsp Turmeric
Salers
emer mel
THE OFFALS: Clean, wash and pat dry brain, liver and kidneys. Put —Continued
 PANEER TAWA MASALA
ae
100g/'4 cup Ghee kidneys in a handi, add turmeric, salt, and water, boil for 5 minutes.
200g/ 1% cups Onions Then add the remaining offals and boil for a minute. Drain and dice liver
4 Green Chillies and kidneys.
10g/1 Tbs Ginger THE VEGETABLES: Peel, wash and chop onions. Remove stems, wash,
4Chillies
Whole Red slit, deseed and chop green chillies. Scrape, wash and chop ginger. Boil,
5g/2'4
Coriander
tsp seeds cool, peel and roughly cut potatoes. Clean, wash and chop coriander.
150g/1 cup Potatoes THE WHOLE SPICES: Pound red chillies and coriander seeds witha pestle.
200ml/7 oz Kadhai Gravy*
60m1/'%4 cup Lemon juice
COOKING
20g/Yscup Coriander
10g/2 tsp Garam Masala _
Heat ghee on a large tawc, add onions, green chillies and ginger, saute
over medium heat for 3 minutes. Add the pounded spices, stir for 30
seconds, add the mince and bhunno for 5 minutes, stirring constantly.
Now transfer the offals and potatoes to tne tawa and roughly chop the
mixture with two metal spatulae held vertically. For the following 2-3
minutes, stir and fold the mixture. Then add Kadhai Gravy and iemon
juice, bhunno until the gravy becomes thick. Adjust the seasoning.
Sprinkle chopped coriander and garam masala, stir.
Serves: 4
Preparation time: 55 minutes
(Plus time taken tor Kadhai
TO SERVE
Grav}’)
Cooking time: 12-13 minutes Remove to a dish and serve with an Indian bread of your choice.

*See section on Gravies.

INGREDIENTS PANEER TAWA MASALA

750g/17/Ib Paneer*
delectable vegetarian dish made from Indian cottage cheese, Paneer
120g/*Acup Ghee
Tawa Masala is simmered in a rich gravy and flavoured with
5g/2 tsp Ajwain
ajwain.
200g/1% cups Onions
10g/1 Tbs Ginger
4 Green Chillies PREPARATION
5g/ 1 tsp Red Chilli powder
5g/ {tsp Coriander powder THE PANEER: Cut into '4-inch cubes.
300ml/11 oz Makhani Gravy** THE VEGETABLES: Peel, wash and chop onions. Scrape, wash and chop
ginger. Remove stems, wash, slit, deseed and chop green chillies. Clean,
wash and chop coriander.
: se
|Lepecansl
y BYP = :
S ; ~ Pao-Bhaji oe
 PAO-BHAJI
2
Salt
COOKING 10g/2 tsp Garam Masala
20g/'/3 cup Coriander
Heat ghee on a large tawa, add ajwain.and saute over medium heat until
it begins to crackle. Add onions, ginger and green chillies, saute for 2
minutes. Then add red chillies and coriander powder, stir for a minute,
add paneer and stir for a minute. Now add Makhani Gravy and bhunno
until the gravy becomes thick and coats the paneer. Adjust the
seasoning. Sprinkle garam masala and coriander, stir.
Serves: 4
Preparation time: 10-12 minutes
TO SERVE (Plus time taken for Makhani
Gravy)
Remove to a dish and serve with an Indian bread of your choice. Cooking time: 6-7 minutes

*See section on Milk.

**Sec section on Gravies.

PAO-BHAJI INGREDIENTS
675g/ 14 lb Potatoes
the simple potato ‘n’ tomato dish, made famous on the side streets of 100g/'4 cup Ghee
Bombay, the city that loves to eat out. Essentially a poor man’s late-
4 Green Chillies
night meal, it has universal appeal.
15g/5 tsp Ginger
250g/ 1 cup Tomatoes
PREPARATION 4 Whole Red Chillies
5g/1 isp Ginger paste
THE POTATOES: Boil, cool, peel and dice. 5g/1 tsp Garlic paste
Salt
THE REMAINING VEGETABLES: Remove stems, wash, slit, deseed and
chop green chillies. Scrape, wash and chop ginger. Wash and chop
10g/2 tsp Garam Masala
tomatoes. Clean, wash and chop coriander.
20g/'3 cup Coriander
THE RED CHILLIES: Pound with a pestle.
30ml1/2 Tbs Lenion juice
THE BUNS: Cut into halves, horizontally. 4 Buns stan

COOKING

Heat ghee on a large tawa, add green chillies, ginger and tomatoes, saute
over medium heat for 2-3 minutes, add red chillies and potatoes, recuce
to low heat and with a metal spatula simultaneously mash and stir for §
minutes. Whilst stirring keep sprinkling the ginger and garlic paste,
dissolved in 90m1/6 Tbs of water. Adjust the seasoning. Increase to
medium heat, add two-thirds of the butter and stir constantly until the
butter is incorporaied. Sprinkle garam masala, coriander and lemon
juice, stir.
ee et ee
 DAL BE-AAB
56
Sa SS SSS SP

TO SERVE

Apply the remaining butter on the bun-halves, place them on the tawa
Serves: 4 (without scraping off the bhaji that sticks to it to ensure that some of it
Preparation time: 35 minutes clings to the bread) and grill until golden brown. Remove the bhajitoa
Cooking time: 10-12 minutes dish and serve with the buns.

INGREDIENTS DAL BE-AAB

3002/14 cups Urad dal
A lentil delicacy, cooked in butter and spiced with cumin.
Sg/ 1 tsp Turmeric
5g/|tsp Red Chilli powder
Salt eee PREPARATION
150g %/ cup Butter
5g/ 1% tsp Cumin seeds THE LENTIL: Pick, wash in running water and boil (in approx 1.6
100g. 2/4 cup Onions er litres /624 cups of water) alongwith turmeric, red chillies and salt until
6Green Chillies cooked. Drain.
10g/1 Tbs Ginger THE VEGETABLES: Peel, wash and slice onions. Remove stems, wash,
10g/2 tsp Garam Masala slit, deseed and cut green chillies into 4-inch pieces. Scrape, wash and
120g/'4 cup Tomatoes cut ginger intc juliennes. Wash and chop tomatoes. Clean, wash and
10g/2
Coriander
Tbs chop coriander.
60ml/% cup Lemon juice’
5g/ 1 tsp Ginger paste =
COOKING
5g/1 tsp Garlic paste
Melt two-thirds of the butter on a large tawa, add cumin and saute over
medium heat until it begins to crackle. Add onions, green chillies and
ginger, saute until onions are light brown, add dal, reduce the heat and
stir for 2-3 minutes. Now add garam masala, tomatoes, coriander and
lemon juice, bhunno for a minute. Sprinkle the ginger and garlic
pastes—dissolved in 30ml/2 Tbs of water, stir constantly for a minute, add
the remaining butter and stir.

Serves: 4 TO SERVE
Preparation time: 40 minutes
Cookiny iime: 7-8 minutes Remove to a dish and serve with Paratha*

*See section on Breads.

 |

be NEE UKE
b
AVADH
With Mohammed Imtiaz Qureshi

any scholars believe there is no such thing as ‘Mughlai’ cuisine. Mughals or Mongols,
according to them, were nomads and the only food they knew was meat hung to roast.
on a spit. Those barbaric hordes, they add, had neither the time nor the subtlety to
create an elaborate meal. What is called ‘Mughlai’ cuisine is actually the food of
Hindustan, particularly the North. While this theory may be arguable, it certainly merits
consideration. What brooks no argument, however, is the fact that once the Mughals made India

MoHAMMED ImTIAz Qurtsut: The illustrious scion of a

family of Master Chefs, what sets Qureshi apart from the
rest is his willingness to take culinary risks. He is almost
compulsive about combining ingredients that others, more
timid, might consider mutually exclusive. While he does
not deviate from the classic form, his culinary philosophy
is the more you innovate, the tastier will be the delicacy.
His pioneering effort in reviving Dum Pukkt is his anique
contribution to Indian cooking. |
 DUM PUKHT & AVADH
SO
their home, they became the only conquerors to appreciate the cuisine of this ancient land. More
important, they provided patronage to- -and became connoisseurs of—our culinary art. It was,
perhaps, to honour the royal patrons that the cuisine came to be called ‘Mughlai’.

In any event, the Indian kitchen flourished like never before and nowhere did it prosper more than
in Avadh or what is today the Lucknow District of the State of Uttar Pradesh. Here two great
cuisines—one innovative and the other traditional—became classic art forms.

The innovative Dum Pukht came into vogue during the reign of the benevolent Nawab Asaf-ud-
Daulah. Dum Pukht, literally choking off the steam, has been described as the ‘maturing of a
prepared dish’. Dum Pukht originated in Persia, where,a prepared dish was sealed and buried in
hot sand to mature. In India, Dum Pukht was born a little over 200 years ago. To feed his starving
subjects during the famine of 1784, Nawab Asaf-ud-Daulah decided to provide jobs by building
the Bara imambara. The monument was built by day and destroyed at night. During its build-and-
destroy stages, huge quantities of food were cooked, sealed in degs (gigantic handis) and then
kept warm in massive double-walled bukhari or ovens. As a result, the prepared food would get
steamed in the gentle heat of the bukhari.
One day, the Nawab decided to sample the food—he relished every morsel. He adapted the
bukhari for use at royal banquets and hunts. His chefs used exotic spices and herbs, to impart
subtle flavours and aromas, before putting the delicacies on dum. Dishes prepared for the humble
Avadhis became delicacies fit for their Sovereign.
The traditional Avadh cuisine found a champion in India’s best-known gourmet, Nawab Wajid Ali
Shah. Legend has it that his chefs vied with each other to create exotic delights—aromatic,
embellished with dry fruits and, hold your breath, veritable aphrodisiacs capable of fulfilling the
most insatiable of harems.
 GULNAR JALPARI
a

Dum Pukht
GULNAR JALPARI INGREDIENTS
12 Prawns (king size)
oy of succulent ‘jumbo’ prawns, marinated ina unique batter
and then put on dum. Groundnut Oil to deep fry
50g/3 Tbs Ginger paste _
50g/3 Tbs Garlic paste _
PREPARATION Salto rgs- tary a
60ml1/4 Tbs Lemon juice
THE PRAWNS: Shell (but retain the tails), devein, wash and pat dry. 100m1/7
Tbs Malt Vineear
THE MARINATION: Mix ginger paste, garlic paste, salt and lemon juice
with vinegar in a large bowl and leave the prawns in this marinade for an The Batter
hour. 100g/% cup Flour
3008) 11/5cups Yoghurt
THE BATTER: Hang yoghurt in muslin until reduced by two-thirds, then
whisk in a large bowl. Clean, wash and chop coriander. Remove stems, 5g/1% tsp Black Cumin seeds
wash, slit, deseed and finely chop green chillies. Mix these vegetables 20g/ 14 cup Coriander
with yoghurt, add the remaining ingredients and make a batter of 5Green Chillies
coating consistency (add a little water if the batter is too thick). 2 Eggs

THE OVEN: Pre-heat to 300° F. Salt

COOKING
Heat oil in a kadhai, remove prawns from the marinade, squeeze out
excess marinade, dip in the batter and deep fry over medium heat until
light golden.

FINISHING
Grease a roasting tray, arrange the prawns in it without overlapping,
‘cover with silver foil and put it on dum in the pre-heated oven for 6-7
minutes.

TO SERVE
Serves: 4
Tear off the foil, remove prawns to a silver platter and serve with lemon Preparation time: 1:15 hours
wedges and mint chutney. Cooking time: 10 minutes
a

Note: To make the prawns retain their original shape—and for decorative purposes as
well—skewer on 3” wooden sticks and then dip in the batter.
RE AT IL DOLLIES IIE TICLE LEC LLF TTS NELLIS LEIA ELL TELLS OILERS LEAVE CDI SDIALLEL PALE AC LES ESSAI LESTE LESS CAGE ILL TG IIEB LLIN CID PII GIAG EDGER EEO ENGI
 KHUROOS-E-TURSH
60
INGREDIENTS KHUROOS-E-TURSH
12 Breasts of Chicken
235g/1 cup Yoghurt eas chicken delicacy, saffron flavoured and spiced with black
cumin, popularly called Shahi Jeera or Royal Cumin in India.
50z/3 Tbs Ginger paste
50g/3 Tbs Garlic paste
2008/ 1% cups Onions PREPARATION
2 Capsicum (medium size)
5GreenChillies THE CHICKEN: Clean, remove the skin, debone but retain the wing
5g/14 tsp Black Cumin seeds bones.
5g/1 tsp White Pepper powder THE VEGETABLES: Peel, wash and cut onions into roundels to make
Sa rn rings. Remove stems, wash and cut capsicum into roundels, deseed.
§0g/3 Tbs Almond paste Remove stems, wash, slit, deseed and finely chop green chillies. Clean,
30ml/2 Tbs Lemon juice — wash and chop mint.
60g/4 Tbs White Butter THE MARINATION: Hang yoghurt in muslin until reduced by half, then
whisk in a large bowl. Add the remaining ingredients, except saffron,
Y g) 1 tsp Saffron
milk, mint and butter, and leave the chicken breasts in this marinade for
‘15ml/1 Tbs Milk at least 30 minutes.
1C leavesi Mint
THE SAFFRON: Dissolve in warm milk.
THE OVEN: Pre-heat to 300° F.

COOKING

Grease a shallow casserole with 10g/2 tsp of butter, arrange the chicken
breasts in it without overlapping, spread the marinade evenly, place
little knobs of the remaining butter on top and roast in the pre-heated
‘oven for 20 minutes. Remove, sprinkle saffron and mint, cover with
silver foil and put on dum in the pre-heated oven for 10 minutes.

Serves: 4 TO SERVE
Preparation time: 50 minutes
Cooking time: 30 minutes Tear off the foil and serve from the casserole with Phulka*.

*See section on Breads.

INGREDIENTS
KHUROOS-E-POTLI
1.2kg/2% Ib Chicken
A n unusual delicacy which makes use of chicken skins, which are.
50g/3 Tbs Ginger paste — {~% usually discarded in Indian cooking. Khuroos or chicken, wrapped
50g/3 Tbs Garlic paste
in a potli or bundle, has the makings of an international favourite.
LS SR SS SSS
KHUROOS-E-POTLI
SSS ies SS res 61

a
er
5g/1 tsp Yellow Chilli powder
FREPARATION SAV
tad ic ages
30ml/2 Tbs Lemon juice :
THE CHICKEN: Clean, remove the skin. debone and cut into 1'4-inch 400g/ 1% cups Yoghurt
tikka. 3g/1 tsp Black Cumin seeds
THE FIRST MARINATION: Add water (approx 50m1/3 Tbs) to the ginger 3g/ 4 tsp White Pepper powder
and garlic pastes, put in muslin and squeeze out the juice into a large 5g/1 tsp Garam Masala
bowl. Add yellow chillies, salt and lemon juice and rub the tikka with
20g/'/3 cup Coriander
this marinade. Keep aside for 20 minutes.
15g/'% cup Mint
THE SECOND MARINATION: Hang yoghurt in muslin until reduced by Butter
basting
for and to
half, then whisk in a large bowl. Add cumin, white pepper, garam masala, grease roasting tray
coriander and mint, mix well. Squeeze out excess moisture from the
8 Chicken skins (from the
tikka, if any, and leave in this marinade for 10 minutes. neck)
THE STUFFING: Tie one end of each skin, stuff an equal quantity of the
tikka in each and tie the other end. Prick the stuffed skins evenly with a
tooth pick.
THE OVEN: Pre-heat to 300° F.

COOKING

Grease a shallow casserole with butter, arrange the stuffed skins in it,
baste with butter and roast in the pre-heated oven, turning constantly,
until skins are golden. Remove, cover with silver foil and put on dumin
the pre-heated oven for 10 minutes.

TO SERVE

Tear off the foil, remove the potli, slice off the ends to remove the Serves: 4
strings, re-arrange in the casserole and serve with lemon wedges and Preparation time: 1:10 hours
onion rings. Cooking time: 25-30 minutes
 AHD-E-CHANGEZI
62

INGREDIENTS AHD-E-CHANGEZI
2 Legs of Spring Lamb
(600g/1/3 Ib each)
eras culinary tribute to Gengis Khan, the Great Mongol, the Ahd
is a leg of lamb delicacy served with an exquisite peppery gravy.
3 Spring Onions

The Marination
PREPARATION
50g/3 Tbs Ginger paste
50g/3 Tbs Garlic paste THE LAMB: Clean and prick with a needle.
3g/'4 tsp Red Chilli powder THE MARINATION: Mix red chillies and salt with the ginger and garlic
Sale
glee.
Pe eal. pastes, rub this mixture evenly on the raan, arrange in a baking tray and
130ml/7scqp
Malt Vinegar douse with vinegar. Keep aside for at least 30 minutes.
THE PEPPERCORNS: Broil on a tawa and pound with a pestle.
The Gravy
THE ONIONS: Clean, wash and cut bulbs into thin roundels. Finely chop
100ml1/3'4 0z Tomato Puree 10g/3 Tbs of the greens.
(or50 ml/ 2 oz Tor-_to Sauce) THE OVEN: Pre-heat to 300° F.
20g/2 Tbs Black Peppercoms
‘A pinch Nutmeg powder
hae ee COOKING
30g/2 Tbs White Butter
60m1/4 Tbs Cream Add enough water to immerse three-fourths of the lamb legs, cover the
45ml/3 Tbs Rum baking tray with silver foil and put the raan on dum in the pre-heated oven
for an hour and fifteen minutes. (Check at regular intervals to ensure
that the meat is not over-cooked. The right time to remove is when the
meat leaves the bone at both ends.) Tear off the foil, cool, remove raan,
strain and reserve the jus.
To make the gravy, transfer the jus to a handi, bring to a boil, reduce to
low heat, add tomato puree and reduce the gravy to a sauce consistency.
Add pepper, nutmeg and salt, simmer for 2 minutes, add butter and stir
constantly until the butter is incorporated. Remove, add cream and
30ml1/2 Tbs of rum, stir. Adjust the seasoning.

FINISHING

Make a deep incision on each raan—right down to the bone—and

carefully remove the bone. Make 4-inch thick slices, arrange in a
shallow casserole, sprinkle the remaining rum and return the raanto the
pre-heated oven for 3-4 minutes.
—_—_—_—

TO SERVE

Remove the casserole from the oven, pour on the gravy, sprinkle a little
 ZAQAND-E-KEBABI
63
pepper from the pepper-mill, garnish with spring onions and serve with Serves: 4
Naan*. Preparation time: | hour
Cooking time: 2 hours

*See section on Breads.

ZAQAND-E-KEBABI INGREDIENTS
24 Picatta of Lamb
(One tobe lamb picatta cooked on stone—marble or red— (50g/ 134 0z each)
before being put on dum. Alternatively, the picatta can be cooked Ghee to shallow fry
on a tawa. Butter to grease casserole

PREPARATION The Marination

150g/24cup Yoghurt
THE PICATTA: Clean and flatten with a bat.
20g/2
Ginger
Tbs
THE MARINATION: Hang yoghurt in muslin until reduced by half, then
20g/2 Tbs Garlic
whisk in a large bowl. Scrape, wash and roughly chop ginger. Peel
garlic. Peel, deseed and roughly cut raw papaya. Put the vegetables and 20g//02
Raw Papaya
the papaya in a blender, add water (approx 30m1/2 Tbs) and makea fine 50
Clowes wine midi
paste. Broil the cloves on a tawa and grind into a powder. Clean, wash 10g/2 Tbs Mint
and chop mint. Put all these ingredients in a bowl, add fried onion paste, 100g/24 cup Fried Onion
red chillies and salt, mix well and leave the picatta in this marinade for at paste*
east an hour. 3g/'4 tsp Red Chilli powder
THE OVEN: Pre-heat to 275° F. Salt

COOKING
Heat the stone slab (or the tawa) ona hot plate, gas or charcoals, apply a
little ghee on the surface and shallow fry the marinated picatta over
medium heat until tender.

FINISHING
Grease a shallow casserole, arrange the cooked picatta in it, side-by-
‘side, cover with silver foil and put on dum in the pre-heated oven for 5
minutes.

TO SERVE
Serves: 4
Tear off the foil, garnish with onion rings and lemon wedges, serve with Preparation time: 1:30 hours
Naan**. Cooking time: | hour

*See section on Pastes.

**See section on Breads.

ETE LEED LEE SO LEE EET ODDS ELL LL LED EELELE LLL LLLDELLE ELIS LD SLL LLL
SE ST LETS
FIRDAUS-£-BA REIN
A

INGREDIENTS FIRDAUS-E-BAREIN
The Kofta
Ase of meat balls stuffed with sunflower seeds and raisins,
Ikg/2\4 lb Leg ofSpring Lamb
simmered in an aromatic gravy.
15g/5 tsp Ginger
15g/5 tsp Garlic
PREPARATION
Sell
Pomegranate
tsp
seed powder THE LAMB: Clean, debone, mince and refrigerate for 15 minutes.
Salt THE MEAT BALLS: Scrape, wash and finely chop ginger. Peel and chop
5g/ 1% tsp Sunflower seeds garlic. Add both to the refrigerated mince and then mince the
15g/5 tsp
Raisins mixture. Peel, wash and finely ‘chop onions. add to the mince alongwith
pomegranate seed powder and salt, mix well. Divide into 20 equal
The Gravy portions, flatten against the palms, place equal quantities of sunflower
125g/ 74 cup Ghee seeds and raisins in each, make kofta (balls) and refrigerate for 15
5Green Cardamom minutes.
5 Cloves THE GRAVY: Peel, wash and chop onions. Wash and chop tomatoes, put
I stick Cinnamon (I-inch) in a blender and make a puree.
160g/1 cup Onions THE OVEN: Pre-heat to 300° F.
25g/4 tsp Ginger paste
25/4 tsp Garlic paste __
COOKING
20g/3!4 tsp Cashewnut paste
120g/%4 cup Tomatoes Heat ghee in a handi, add cardamom, cloves and cinnamon, saute over
5g/.1 tsp Coriander powder medium heat for 30 seconds. Add onions, saute until light brown, add
3g/'4 tsp Red Chilli powder the ginger and garlic pastes, saute until onions are golden brown, add
Sclias
ag we cashewnut paste and stir for a minute. Then add the fresh tomato puree,
Ig/% tsp Mace powder _ bhunno until the fat leaves the masala, add coriander, red chillies and
salt, stir, add water (approx 400ml/ I 24 cups) and bring to a boil. Gently
3/4 tsp Garam Masala
add the kofta to the gravy and cook until meat balls are firm. Reduce to
low heat and simmer until kofta are three-fourths cooked. Adjust the
seasoning.

FINISHING
Grease an oven-proof handi (or casserole), transfer kofta, sprinkle
mace and garam masala, cover with a lid, seal with atta-dough (or silver
foil) and put on dum in the pre-heated oven for 8-10 minutes.

TO SERVE
Serves: 4
Preparation time: |:15 hours Break the seal (or tear off the foil) and serve from the handi (or casserole)
Cooking time: | hour with boiled rice, Pulao or Phulka*.
a Nn
*See section on Breads.
sss pueonensepninneeeeseeeeee>
Rae
 SUBZ GOSHT

SUBZ GOSHT INGREDIENTS

800g/ 1% Ib Leg of Spring
he perfect combination of lamb, turnips (or zucchini) and spinach Lamb
cooked in mustard oil.
250g/1%
cups Turnips
500g/ 18 ozSpinach
PREPARATION 150m1/%4 cup Mystard Oil
100g/24 cup Onions
THE LAMB: Clean, wash, debone and cut into 1!4-inch chunks. g/7 tsp Ginger paste
THE TURNIPS: Peel, wash and cut into small pieces. 40g/7 tsp Garlic paste

THE SPINACH: Clean, wash and chop. 5g/ 1 tsp Red Chilli powder
22/4 tsp Turmeric
THE REMAINING VEGETABLES: Peel, wash and chop onions. Wash and
Salt
chop tomatoes. Clean, wash and chop dill.
THE OVEN: Pre-heat to 275°F.
150g/24cup Tomatoes _
1g/% tsp Clove powder
3g/ 4 tsp Green Cardamom
COOKING powder
1g/% tsp Mace powder _
Heat oil ina handi to smoking point, reduce to medium heat, add onions 30g/'4 cup Dill Leaves
and saute until light brown. Add the ginger and garlic pastes, saute until
the moisture evaporates, add red chillies, turmeric and salt, stir. Then
add turnips, stir, add lamb, stir, add spinach and water (approx 240ml/ 1
cup), bring to a boil, cover and simmer until the meat is three-fourths
cooked. Now add tomatoes and water (approx 120ml/'4 cup), coverand
simmer until lamb is almost cooked.

FINISHING

Grease an oven-proof handi (or casserole), transfer the cooked meat and
vegetables, sprinkle clove, cardamom and mace powders, and dill, cover
with a lid, seal with atta-dough (or silver foil) and put on dum in the pre-
heated oven for 15 minutes.

TO SERVE
Serves: 4
Break the seal (or tear off the foil) and serve from the handi (or Preparation time: | hour
casserole) with Tandoori Roti* or boiled rice. Cooking time: | hour

*See section on Breads.

 GUNCHA-O-BAHAR
gre
66

INGREDIENTS GUNCHA-0-BAHAR
Ikg/2'%4 Ib Caul:flower
Sg/l
Turmeric
tsp t is rare for Indians to cook vegetables with exotica like saifron and
almonds. Guncha-o-Bahar is a rich exception.
Salt
ee
30ml/2
Tbs Lemon juice —
Groundnut Oil to deep fry
PREPARATION

The Marination THE CAULIFLOWER: Clean, cut into large florets and wash. Boil water
25g/4 tsp Ginger paste (approx 2 litres/84cups) in a handi, add turmeric, salt and lemon
25g/4 tsp Garlic paste juice, blanch for 5 minutes. Drain.
5g/ |tsp Red Chilli powder THE MARINATION: Mix red chillies and salt with the ginger and garlic
Sit pastes, rub the blanched florets with this mixture, arrange in a shallow
100ml1/7 Tbs Malt Vinegar dish and douse with vinegar. Keep aside for 15 minutes. Drain off the
excess marinade.
The Dusting THE DUSTING: Mix cumin with gramflour and dust the marinated florets
50g/ 3 cup Gramflour with this mixture.
3g/'4 tsp Cumin powder THE FLORETS: Heat oil in a kadhai and deep fry over medium heat until
light golden.
The Gravy
THE GRAVY: Peel, wash and chop onions. Whisk yoghurt ina bowl. Rub
752/6 Tbs Ghee
khoya gently between the palms to make a paste, blend with yoghurt,
50g/'acup Onions add coriander, fennel, red chillies, turmeric and salt, mix well. Dissolve
30g/5 tsp Almond
paste — saffron in warm milk.
60g/2 oz Tomato puree
THE OVEN: Pre-heat to 300° F.
2208/1 cup Yoghurt
120g/4 oz Khoya*
5g/1 tsp Coriander powder COOKING
10g/2 tsp Fennel powder —
3/14 tsp Red Chilli powder Heat ghee in a handi, add onions and saute over medium heat until light
3g/4 tsp Turmeric brown. Add almond paste and tomato puree, bhunno until the fat leaves
Salt
the masala. Then add the yoghurt mixture and reduce the gravy to a
sauce consistency. Sprinkle garam masala and stir. Adjust the seasoning.
3g/'4 tsp Garam Masala
Yell
Saffron
tsp
15ml/1 Tbs Milk FINISHING
Arrange the deep fried florets in a shallow casserole, pour on the gravy,
sprinkle saffron, cover with silver foil and put on dum in the pre-heated
oven for 8-10 minutes.

Serves: 4 TO SERVE
Preparation time: | hour
Cooking time: 30 minutes Tear off the foil and serve from the casserole with Phulka**.

*See section on Milk.

**See Section on Breads.

remem armen)
 PHALDARI KOFTA
67

PHALDARI KOFTA INGREDIENTS

The Kofta
R* banana-balls cooked in a rich gravy makes this a unique
vegetarian delight. 450g/1 lb Raw Bananas
50g//s
cup Onions
15g/4 tsp Ginger
PREPARATION
15g/%
Coriander
cup
5 Green Chillies
THE BANANAS: Boil for 30 minutes, cool, peel and mash.
3g/% tsp White Pepper powder
THE KOFTA: Peel, wash and finely chop onions. Scrape, wash and finely
Sale
chop ginger. Clean, wash and chop coriander. Remove stems, wash, slit,
Ghee to deep fry J
deseed and finely chop green chillies. Mix these chopped vegetables,
white pepper and salt with the mashed bananas. Divide into 16 equal The Gravy
portions and make balls.
75g/6 Tbs Ghee
Heat ghee in a kadhai and deep fry the kofta over low heat until golden 8 Green Cardamom
brown. Remove and keep aside.
5 Cloves
THE GRAVY: Peel, wash and chop onions. Wash and roughly chop
tomatoes, put in a blender and make a puree. 50g/3 cup Onions
THE OVEN: Pre-heat to 275° F. 15g/2' tsp Ginger paste _
15g/2\4 tsp Garlic paste
COOKING 500g/2'% cups Tomatoes —
5g/1 tsp Red Chilli powder —
Heat ghee in a handi, add cardamom, cloves and cinnamon, stir over Salt
medium heat for 30 seconds, add onions and saute until transparent. 20g/4 tsp Butter
Add the ginger and garlic pastes, saute until onions are light brown. 75ml/ cup Cream
Then add the fresh tomato puree, red chillies and salt, bhunno until the
1 tsp Honey
fat leaves the masala, add water (approx 400ml/ I?4cups) and bring to
1g/'4 tsp Mace powder
a boil. Remove, pass the gravy through a soup Strainer into a separate
Garam Masala to sprinkle
handi, return the strained gravy to the heat and bring toa boil. Reduce
to medium heat, add butter and stir until incorporated. Stir in cream.
Remove and add honey. Adjust the seasoning.

FINISHING
Grease an oven-proof handi (or casserole), arrange the kofta in it, pour
on the gravy, sprinkle mace and garam masala, cover witha lid, seal with
atta-dough (or silver foil) and put on dum in the pre-heated oven for 8-10
minutes.

TO SERVE
Serves: 4
Break the seal (or tear off the foil) and serve from the handi (or Preparation time: | hour
casserole) with Phulka* or boiled rice. Cooking time: 30 minutes

*See section on Breads.

A
EAT TS, I EE SES TET ET LEI ESET LE DEE LES CLLILES DE ISLE LIED EAL LONE TELE LE STL ELITE IE EES PEAT LE TET RTE RLY
 BADAL JAAM
OSinaes

INGREDIENTS BADAL JAAM

2 Brinjals (375g/ 130z each)
n exotic and colourful aubergine delicacy, dressed in a creamy,
Groundnut Oil to deep fry A
coriander-flavoured yoghurt.
ChaatMasala*
tosprinkle
2kg/4'4
Ib Tomatoes
75ml//scup Groundnut
Oil PREPARATION
i00g/*%4
cup Onions
80g/'4 cup Garlic THE BRINJALS: Remove stems, wash, slice ends, and cut each into 8
20g/2 Tbs Ginger roundels of equal thickness. Heat oil in a kadhai and deep fry the
5g/ 1 tsp Red Chilli powder roundels over medium heat until cooked. Remove. Lightly grease a
Salt roasting tray, arrange the slices in it without overlapping, and sprinkle
lkg/4'4 cups Yoghurt chaat masala.
20g 4 cup Coriander THE TOMATO SAUCE: Blanch tomatoes, remove the skin, deseed and
30m1/2 Tbs Lemon juice roughly chop. Peel, wash and finely chop onions. Peel and finely chop
garlic, reserve 10g/1 Tbs for the yoghurt topping. Scrape, wash and
finely chop ginger.
Heat oil in a kadhai, add onions and saute until light brown. Add garlic
and ginger, saute until onions are golden brown. Then add tomatoes,
red chillies and salt; bhunno until mashed. Reduce the masala to a thick
sauce consistency. Adjust the seasoning.
THE TOPPING: Hang yoghurt in muslin until reduced by half, then whisk
in a bowl. Clean, wash and chop coriander, add to the yoghurt, alongwith the
reserved garlic and lemon juice, mix well.
THE OVEN: Pre-heat to 275° F.

COOKING

Spoon out equal quantities of the tomato sauce over each roundel, cover
the roasting tray with silver foil and put on dum in the pre-heated oven
for 5 minutes.

TO SERVE
Serves: 4
Preparation time: !:05 hours Tear off the foil, transfer roundels.to a silver platter, garnish eachroundel
Cooking time: 5-6 minutes with a dollop of the topping and serve as an accompaniment.

OE

*See section on Masalas.

 DUDHIA BATAER
oaaettOD

Avadh
DUDHIA BATAER INGREDIENTS
12 Quail
alee of the rich and cultured hues of game cooking is seen in this Ghee to deep fry
magnificent delicacy of fried quail.
Ilitre/4cups
Milk
52/14 tsp Black Peppercoms
PREPARATION 10g/4 tsp Fennel seeds
‘12 Green Cardamom
THE QUAIL: Clean and remove the skin. 6 Cloves
THE PEPPER: Pound with a pestle. 2 sticks Cinnamon (I-inch)
THE BATTER: Dissolve saffron in warm milk, mix with the remaining 2Bay
Leaves”
ingredients and make a batter of fritter consistency. 4g/1 tsp Saffron
Salt

The Batter
COOKING
100g/% cup Gramflour
3g/4 tsp Fennel powder.
Boil milk in a handi, add pepper, boil for a minute, add quail and the
remaining ingredients, except ghee, and boil over medium heat until 3g/'4 tsp Red Chilli powder
tender. Remove the quail (but leave the coating on). Sait.
eT eae
Heat ghee in a kadhai, dip the boiled quail in the batter and deep fry—
g/l
Saffron
tsp
200ml1/7 oz Milk
three-at-a-time—until a crisp, cream-coloured layer is formed. (Ensure
there is no browning whatsoever.) 30ml/2
Tbs Lemon juice —

TO SERVE Serves: 4
Preparation time: 25 minutes
Remove to a silver platter and serve witha salad of your choice. Cooking tinfe: 1:20 hours

INGREDIENTS
PEETHIWALI MACHCHI 16 Steaks Sole (60g/2 oz
had dipped in rice batter, fried in mustard oil and then simmered each)
in a typical Avadhi gravy. Mustard Oil to deep fry

The Marination
PREPARATION 25g/4 tsp Garlic paste
10g/13% tsp Ginger paste
THE FISH: Clean, wash and pat dry. 60ml/4
Tbs Lemon juice
THE MARINATION: Mix all the ingredients and rub the steaks with this ~—Continued
 PEETHIWALI MACHCHI
70
3g/'4 tsp Red Chilli powder mixture. Keep aside for 15 minutes. Remove and press gently to drain
Salt excess marinade.
THE PEETHI (BATTER): Pick rice, wash in running water and soak for
The Peethi
an hour. Drain, put in a blender, add red chillies, salt and water (approx
50g/'%4 cup Basmati Rice
100ml/7 Tbs) and make a fine—but thick—paste. Remove. Whisk
3g/'4 tsp Red Chilli powder yoghurt in a bowl, add the rice paste and mix well.
Salt. ela THE STEAKS: Heat mustard oil in a kadhai to smoking point, reduce to
50g/3 Tbs Yoghurt
medium heat, dip fish steaks in the batter and deep fry until light golden.
The Gravy Remove and reserve the oil.
100m1/7 Tbs Mustard Oil THE GRAVY: Peel, wash and roughly chop onions. Put in a blender,
100g/*scup Onions make a fine paste, add fried onion paste and mix well. Whisk yoghurt .n
50g/3 Tbs Fried Onion paste* a bowl.
25g/4 tsp Ginger paste THE GARNISH: Clean, wash and chop coriander.
50g/3 Tbs Garlic paste
202/34 tsp Cashewnut paste
COOKING
15g/1Tbs Coriander powder
3g/'4 tsp Red Chilli powder Heat 100m1/7 Tbs of mustard oil in a handi (use the oil in which fish was
3g/% tsp Turmeric deep fried), add the mixed onion paste and stir over medium heat fora
Salt =~ minute. Add the ginger, garlic and cashewnut pastes, stir, add coriander
220g/1
cup Yoghurt powder, red chillies, turmeric and salt, stir. Then add yoghurt, bring toa
3g/% tsp Garam Masala boil, reduce to medium heat and bhunno until the fat leaves the masala.
3g) % tsp Fenugreek Now add water (approx 450ml1/2 cups), bring to a boil and simmer for
(Kasvori Methi) 10 minutes. Remove, pass the gravy through a soup strainer into a
2 drops Vetivier separate handi, return the strained gravy to the heat and bring toa boil.
Reduce to low heat, add the fried fish, sprinkle garam masala, Kasoori
The Garnish
Methi and vetivier, cover and simmer for 3-4 minutes. Adjust the
10g; 2 Tbs Coriander seasoning.

TO SERVE
Serves: 4
Preparation time: | :20 hours Remove and arrange fish gently in a shallow dish, pour on the gravy,
Cooking time: 40 minutes garnish with coriander and serve with boiled rice or Kulcha**.

*See section on Pastes.

**See section on Breads.

INGREDIENTS MURGH MUSSALAM

1.6kg/ 3! Ib Chicken (2 birds)
he most famous dish created by the chefs of the Royal House of
Avadh—to say more would be to blaspheme, except the Mussalam
is Very, very rich.
 MURGH MUSSALAM

Ghee to shallow fry chicken

PREPARATION and for basting

The Marination
THE CHICKEN: Clean and remove the skin. 50g/3 Tbs Ginger paste
THE MARINATION: Mix red chillies, turmeric and salt with the ginger 50g/3 Tbs Garlic paste .
and garlic pastes and rub the chicken with this mixture. Keep aside for 5g/1tsp Red Chilli powder
30 minutes. 3g/4
Turmeric
tsp
THE FRYING: Heat ghee in a kadhai and shallow fry each bird Salt
individually, turning constantly to ensure each is evenly light brown.
The Filling
Remove and keep aside, reserve the oil.
200g/ 1 cup Chicken Mince
THE FILLING: Peel, wash and finely chop onions. Scrape, wash and
30g/7'4 tsp Ghee
finely chop half the ginger, cut the rest into juliennes for garnish. Hard
60g/Y3 cup Onions
boil eggs, cool, shell and slice 2 for garnish. Blanch almonds and
pistachio, cool, peel, make slivers and reserve half for garnish. Chop 20g/2
Ginger
Tbs
cashewnuts: Clean, wash and chop coriahder, reserve two-thirds for 5g/1 tsp Garam Masala a
garnish. Salt
4 Eggs
Heat ghee in a kadhai (use the ghee in which chicken was shallow fried),
add onions and saute over medium heat until transparent. Add chicken 12 Almonds
mince, ginger and garam masala, bhunno until mince is.cooked (add a 16 Pistachio
little water if necessary). Remove, cool, add the remaining ingredients, 12 Cashewnuts
except eggs, and mix well. Divide into 2 equal portions. 10g/1 Tbs Raisins -
THE STUFFING: Stuff the abdominal cavity of each bird from the tail end 20g//3 cup Coriander
as follows: half of one portion of the mince, a whole boiled egg, followed The Coating
by the remaining half of one portion of the mince. Then double up the
220g/ 1 cup Yoghurt
legs, ensuring that the drumsticks cover the opening through which the ,
602/4 Tbs Almond paste
filling was stuffed and tie firraly with a string (see photographs). :
 MURGH WAJID ALI
dis
3g/'4 tsp Green Cardamom THE COATING: Whisk yoghurt in a bowl. Dissolve saffron in warm milk.
powder Mix both, add tne remaining ingredients, make a paste and apply it
lg/4 tsp Mace powder evenly on the stuffed chicken.
1g/2 tsp Saffron THE OVEN: Pre-heat to 300° F.
30m1/2 Tbs Milk

COOKING

Arrange the chicken on a greased roasting tray, spread the remaining

coating paste on top, baste (use the ghee in which chicken was shallow
fried) and roast in the pre-heated oven, basting with the drippings at
regular intervals, until the coating becomes brown.

TO SERVE
Remove the tray, transfer the chicken to a silver platter, untie and
discard the string. Skim off the fat and pour the drippings on the
Serves: 4 chicken. Garnish with the remaining ginger, coriander, almonds and
Preparation time: 2 hours pistachio, arrange the egg slices along the border ofthe platter and serve
Cooking time: 30 minutes with Naan or Phulka*.

*See section on Breads.

INGREDIENTS
MURGH WAJID ALI
12 Breasts of Chicken
Butter togrease roasting tray befitting tribute to Avadh’s best-known gourmet, Nawab Wajid Ali
Shah, this delicacy of saffron-flavoured chicken breasts is doneina
The Marination rich almond-based gravy.
25g/4 tsp Ginger paste
25g/4 tsp Garlic paste
3g/'4 tsp Yellow Chilli powder PREPARATION
oe

3g/'4 tsp Garam Masala

Salt
THE CHICKEN: Clean, remove the skin, debone and flatten with a bat (see
Photographs).
The Filling THE MARINATION: Mix yellow chillies, garam masala and salt with the
150g/5 oz Khoya* ginger and garlic pastes and rub the flattened chicken breasts with this
175g/1 cup Onions mixture. Keep aside for 15 minutes.
20g/2 Tbs Ginger THE FILLING: Peel, wash and finely chop onions. Scrape, wash and
5Green Chillies finely chop ginger. Remove stems, wash, slit, deseed and finely chop
20g/'/3 cup Coriander green chillies. Clean, wash and finely chop coriander. Crumble khoya in
Salt a bowl, add the chopped ingredients, salt and lemon juice, mix well.
30m1/2 Tbs Lemon juice Divide into 12 equal portions.
THE STUFFING: Place a portion of the filling at the narrower end ofeach
breast and roll (see photographs).

Laat]
 ee
MURGH WAJID ALI
a
eel

THE OVEN: Pre-heat to 300° F. The Gravy

THE ROASTING: Grease a roasting tray with butter, arrange the breasts 100g/'%4 cup Ghee
with the loose ends touching the tray and roast in the pre-heated oven 100g/4cup Onions
until evenly light golden. 25g/4 tsp Ginger paste
_ THE GRAVY: Peel, wash and chop onions. Put cashewnuts and coconut 25g/4 tsp Garlic paste
in a blender, add water (approx 100ml/7 Tbs) and make a fine paste. 50g/'/1 cup Cashewnuts
Whisk yoghurt in a bowl. Dissolve saffron in warm milk. 10g/5
Dessicated
tsp
THE GARNISH: Blanch almonds, cool, peel and split into halves. Coconut
Dissolve saffron in warm milk and soak the almonds in it. Clean, 220g/1 cup Yoghurt
wash and chop coriander. 52/1 tsp Garam Masala
Salteee
anid anl bye
Yg/1 tsp Saffron
COOKING 15ml/1 Tbs Milk

Heat ghee in a handi, add onions and saute over medium heat until The Garnish
transparent. Add the ginger and garlic pastes and saute until the 20 Almonds
moisture has evaporated. Then add the cashewnut-coconut paste and ’ye/1 tsp Saffron
bhunno for 5 minutes. Reduce to low heat, add yoghurt and simmer for 15ml1/1 Tbs Milk
2-3 minutes, add garam masala and salt, stir, add saffron and stir. 15g/'4 cup Coriander
Transfer the roasted chicken breasts carefully, one-at-a-time, and
simmer until napped in the gravy. Adjust the seasoning.

TO SERVE
Serves: 4
Remove to a silver dish, garnish with almonds and saffron. Sprinkle Preparation time: | hour
coriander and serve with Naan** Cooking time: 30 minutes

*See section on Milk.

**See section on Breads.

RP
A Oe saline ci Lee 2
 GOSHT KORMA
74

INGREDIENTS GOSHT KORMA

1.2kg/2?4lb Spring Lamb
(assorted cuts) Y ‘he extraordinary thing about a korma—which is a thin gravy—is
150g/3%4
cup Ghee that it is cooked without turmeric.
10 Green Cardamom
5 Cloves PREPARATION
2 sticks Cinnamon (I-inch)
2Bay
Leaves—t™” THE LAMB: Clean and cut breast and saddle into 14-inch chunks, clean
160g/1
Onions cup chops.
50g/3 Tbs Ginger paste _ THE ONIONS: Peel, wash and chop.
50g/3 Tbs Garlic paste THE YOGHURT: Whisk in a bowl.
10g/2 tsp Conander powder THE SAFFRON: Dissolve in warm milk.
5g/ 1 tsp Red Chilli powder THE ALMONDS: Pound with a pestle.
Salt
220g/ 1 cup Yoghurt
5g/1 tsp Garam Masala COOKING
3g/\4 tsp Mace and Green
Cardamom powder
Heat ghee in a handi, add cardamom, cloves, cinnamon and bay leaves,
saute over medium heat until they begin to crackle. Add onions, saute
3g/'4 tsp Black Pepper powder
until light brown, add the ginger and garlic pastes and saute until the
2 drops Vetivier
moisture has evaporated. Then add coriander, red chillies and salt, stir,
g/l tsp Saffron
add lamb, bhunno for 5 minutes, add yoghurt, bring to boil, add water
30m1/2 Tbs Milk (approx 800m1/3'4 cups), cover and simmer, stirring occasionally,
Chandi-ka-Varq until lamb is almost cooked. Now add garam masala, mace and
20 Roasted Almonds cardamom powder, and pepper, stir, add vetivier, stir, cover and simmer
for 8-10 minutes. Adjust the seasoning. Add saffron and stir.

TO SERVE
Serves: 4
Preparation time: 40 minutes Remove to a bowl, garnish with varg and roasted almonds, serve with
Cooking time: | hour Phulka* or Pulao.

*See section on Breads.

INGREDIENTS CHANDI KALIYAN

1.2kg/2%lb Leg of Spring Lamb
150g; cup White Butter
delicacy of cardamom-flavoured lamb which ‘glows’ like chandi
orssilver. It has a ‘white’ gravy.
10
Cardamom
White
30g/3 Tbs Garlic
100g/7A cup Onions PREPARATION
8 Green Chillies
THE LAMB: Clean, debone and cut into 1'4-inch chunks.
20 Almonds
THE CHANDI PASTE: Peel garlic. Peel, wash and roughly chop onions.
Remove stems, wash, slit and deseed green chillies. Blanch, cool and
ee LL a
 NAHARI GOSHT
LL SSS SSS SSS SSS SSeS SSS rs 75
SS

peel almonds. Put these ingredients in a blender, add water (approx 225g/1 cup Yoghurt
50ml1/3 Tbs) and make a fine paste. Salt
THE YOGHURT: Whisk in a bowl. 120ml1/'4 cup Cream
THE CORIANDER: Clean, wash and chop. 5g/1 tsp White Pepper powder
pes nseeeeneeeeenenereeeeeeeneeeeeeee 3g/'4 tsp White Cardamom
powder
COOKING Chandi-ka-Varq
5g/1 Tbs Coriander
Melt butter in a handi, add cardamom and stir over low heat for 30
seconds. Add the Chandi paste, bhunno for 5 minutes, add lamb, stir,
add yoghurt, salt and water (approx 750ml/3 cups), cover and simmer,
stirring occasionally, until tender. Increase to medium heat, add cream,
bring to a boil, sprinkle pepper, stir, add cardamom powder and stir.
Adjust the seasoning.

TO SERVE
Serves: 4
Remove to a bowl, garnish with varg and coriander, serve with Pulao or Preparation time: 55 minutes
Phulka*. Cooking time: 1:30 hours

Note: At no stage should the masala be allowed to stick to the bottom of the pan—or
else the gravy will change colour.

*See section on Breads.

NAHARI GOSHT INGREDIENTS

700g/ 114 Ib Leg of Spring Lamb
his was originally a breakfast food. In days gone by, this rural light-
450g/1 Ib Spring Lamb Chops
gravy lamb delicacy was eaten in the wee hours of the morning—
175g/60z Ghee”
before going to till the fields.
250g/1%4 cups Onions
5 Green Cardamom
PREPARATION 5 Cloves
2 sticks Cinnamon (I-inch)
THE LAMB: Clean and cut leg into 14-inch chunks. Clean chops. 2 Bay Leaves ;

THE ONIONS: Peel, wash and slice half the onions, chop the rest. 10g/2 tsp Coriander powder

THE YOGHURT: Whisk in a bowl. 5g/1 tsp Red Chilli powder

3g/4
Turmeric
tsp
Salt
COOKING S0g/3 Tbs Ginger paste
50g/3 Tbs Garlic paste
Heat 150g/5o0z of ghee in a handi, add the sliced onions, saute over
medium heat until golden brown, add lamb, chopped onions,
cardamom, cloves, cinnamon and bay leaves, bhunno until the liquid —Continued
has evaporated. Add coriander, red chillies, turmeric and salt, stir, add

ye cs SPL EPSP ES IS TS A VSP TEAS PRE ESTO SSF DET SEE NER PREIS ELSE TE TE LET LENIN TES ITEIELEEPER SENT
 LAZEEZ PASLIAN
16 eee
enn nn

150g/2A cup Yoghurt the ginger and garlic pastes and bhunno until the fat leaves the masala.
10g/2tsp Flour” Then add yoghurt, bring to a boil, reduce to medium heat, bhunno for .
10g/2
Gramflour
tsp 10 minutes, add water (approx 750ml/3 cups), bring to a boil again,
“g/1 tsp Garam Masala — cover and simmer, stirring occasionally, until lamb 1s tender. Remove
3g/'’4 tsp Mace and Green
the meat from the gravy and keep aside.
Cardamom powder Heat the remaining ghee in a separate handi, 2dd the two flours and
2 drops Vetivier bhunno over low heat, stirring constantly, until light brown. Add the
gravy and stir (ensure there are no|lumps). Pass the thickened gravy
through a soup strainer into its original handi (make sure it is clean),
return the meat to the strained gravy and bring to a boil. Add garam
masala and the mace and cardamom powder, stir. Adjust the seasoning.
Then add vetivier, cover and simmer for 8-10 minutes.

Serves: 4 TO SERVE
Preparation time: 40 minutes
Cooking time: 1:30 hours Remove to a bowl and serve with Khameeri Roti or Kulcha*.
*See section on Breads.
fh
INGREDIENTS
LAZEEZ PASLIAN
24 Spring Lamb Chops
(single rib) A delicacy of single-rib lamb chops cooked in a thick, yoghurt-based
125g/2A cup Ghee gravy.
200g/ 1% cups Onions
10 Green Cardamom PREPARATION
5 Cloves
2 sticks Cinnamon (I-inch) THE CHOPS: Clean and remove excess fat.
2Bay
Leavest™” THE VEGETABLES: Peel, wash and chop onions. Scrape, wash and cut
50g/3 Tbs Ginger paste ginger into juliennes. Clean, wash and chop coriander.
50g/3 Tbs Garlic paste THE YOGHURT: Whisk in a bowl.
10g/2 tsp Conander powder
5g/ 1 tsp Red Chilli powder COOKING
3g/'4 tsp Turmeric
Salt Heat ghee in a kadhai, add onions and saute over medium heat until
20g/3!4 tsp Cashewnut paste light brown. Add cardamom, cloves, cinnamon and bay leaves, stir for 30
225g/1 cup Yoghurt seconds, add the ginger and garlic pastes, saute until the moisture has
20g/2 Tbs Ginger
evaporated, add coriander powder, red chillies, turmeric and salt, stir.
Then add the cashewnut paste, bhunno until the fat leaves the masala,
20g/'4 cup Coriander’
add yoghurt and stir. Now add chops, cover and simmer, stirring
occasionally, until tender. Adjust the seasoning.
SS essen

TO SERVE
Serves: 4
‘Preparation time: 30 minutes Remove to a flat dish, garnish with ginger juliennes and chopped
‘Cooking time: | hour coriander, serve with Phulka*.
*See section on Breads.
SS A I TE TE ES I SE EST TD
 LAUKI MUSSALAM
a7

LAUKI MUSSALAM INGREDIENTS

2 White Marrow (450g/ | lb
Ae cee. dream: white marrow stuffed with a rich kKhoya-nuts- each)
seeds-dry fruits filling, coated with yoghurt and gramflour, and Ghee to deep fry a
then finished in the oven.
The/Marination
10g/ 134 tsp Ginger paste
10g/ 134 tsp Garlic paste
» REPARATION
60ml/4
Tbs Lemon juice —
5g/1 tsp Red Chilli powder
THE MARROW: Remove stems, wash, peel and cut the ends. Core the
3g/%4
Turmeric
tsp
length of each marrow, leaving '4-inch walls to form tubes.
Salt
THE MARINATION: Mix all the ingredients and rub the marrow— inside
and out—with this mixture. Keep aside for 15 minutes. The Filling
THE FRYING: Heat ghee in a kadhai and deep fry the marinated marrow 300g/2 cups Potatoes
over medium heat until cooked (approx 5-7 minutes). (The marrow will 100g/3'4
oz Khoya*
become limp but that is no cause for worry.) Remove and cool. 50g/%4
cup Ghee
THE FILLING: Boil, cool, peel and mash potatoes. Bhunno khoya ina 50g//3 cup Onions
kadhai over medium heat until light brown. Peel, wash and finely chop 10g/1 Tbs Ginger
onions. Scrape, wash and finely chop ginger. Clean, wash and chop 15g/4% cup Coriander
coriander. Remove stems, wash, slit deseed and finely chop green 4 Green Chillies
chillies. Blanch almonds, cool, remove the skin and split. 3g/'4 tsp Garam Masala
Heat ghee in a kadhai, add onions and saute over medium heat until 12 Cashewnuts
light brown. Add potatoes, bhunno for 5 minutes, add the remaining 12 Almonds -
"ingredients, except lemon juice, stir and bhunno for 3 minutes. Remove, 5g/
Sunflower
14 tsp seeds
cool, add lemon juice and mix well. Adjust the seasoning. 5g/1'4 tsp Melon seeds
THE STUFFING: Gently prize open the fried marrow at one end, stuff the 15g/5 tsp Raisins
filling, compress to ensure it is firmly packed. Salt
THE COATING: Heat butter in a kadhai, add yoghurt and bring to a boil 30ml1/2 Tbs Lemon juice
thrice. Add roasted cashewnut paste and fried onion paste, stir. Then The Coating
add water (approx 30ml1/2 Tbs) and the remaining ingredients, bring to 30g/2 Tbs White Butter
a boil, reduce to medium heat and bhunno for 2 minutes.
120g/%4
cup Yoghurt
THE GARNISH: Chop the roasted cashewnuts. 50g/3 Tbs Roasted
THE OVEN: Pre-heat to 275° F. Cashewnut paste
20g/4 tsp Fried Onion paste**
ee OOOOOeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeEeEeEEEE 3/4 tsp Red Chilli powder
COOKING Salt ;
ee 3g/'4 tsp Garam Masala

Grease a roasting tray with ghee, arrange the stuffed marrows in it and The Garnish
roast in the pre-heated oven for 4-5 minutes. Remove, coat with the 12 Roasted Cashewnuts
yogiiurt-cashewnut mixture and roast for 4-5 minutes.
— Continued
 DHINGRI DULMA
78

TO SERVE

Serves: 4 Remove toa silver platter, cut into l-inch thick slices, pour the drippings
Preparation time: !:30 hours on top, garnish with roasted cashewnuts and serve with Phulka or
Cooking time: 8-10 minutes Tandoori Roti***.

*See section on Milk.

**See section on Pastes.
**kSee section on Breads.

INGREDIENTS
DHINGRI DULMA
675g/1'4 lb Mushrooms
yee ere combination of mushrooms and paneer, cooked with
450g/1
lb Paneer* =
tomatoes and tempered with black cumin.
100g/'%4
cup Ghee
3g/ 1 tsp Black Cumin seeds
100g/*A cup Onions PREPARATION
25g/4 tsp Ginger paste
25g/4 tsp Garlic paste __ THE MUSHROOMS: Slice off earthy base of the stalk, slice and washjust
3g/ 4 tsp Red Chilli powder prior to cooking.
5g/1 tsp White Pepper powder THE PANEER: Grate coarsely.
Salt THE REMAINING VEGETABLES: Peel, wash and dice onions. -Wash
220g/1 cup Tomatoes tomatoes, cut into quarters, deseed and dice. Scrape, wash and cut
3g/'4 tsp Garam Masala — ginger into juliennes. Clean, wash and chop coriander.
15g/44 tsp Ginger
154/Y%
Coriander
cup
COOKING

Heat ghee in a kadhai, add cumin and saute over medium heat until it
begins to crackle. Add onions, saute until light brown, add the ginger
and garlic pastes and saute until the moisture has evaporated. Then add
red chillies, pepper and salt, stir, add mushrooms and stir for 3-4
minutes. Now add paneer, cook for 4-5 minutes, stirring occasionally,
add tomatoes and bhunno for 4-5 minutes. Sprinkle garam masala and
stir. Adjust the seasoning.
Rene
nee e

TO SERVE
Serves: 4
Preparation time: 30 minutes Remove to a flat dish, garnish with ginger and coriander, serve with
Cooking time: 20 minutes Phulka*.
lll TTT. OO

*See section on Milk.

**See section on Breads.
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 79

WEST COAST FOODS

With Arvind Saraswat

Goa
he most surprising aspect of Goa’s food is that for so small a state it offers an intriguing
variety of cuisines—each as colourful and full of zest as its people. There is the Christian
food and there is the Hindu food. There is the cuisine of the Brahmins (both Hindu and
Christian) and that of the non-Brahmins (both Christian and Hindu). Then there are the
various influences—Kashmiri (since the Saraswats, who derive their name from the river
Saraswati, which originates in the Vale, came from there), Muslim (Goa was annexed by the
Mohammedan rulers of Bijapur) and Portuguese (who came in the early Sixteenth Century and
stayed until the middle of the Twentieth). The result is an exquisite cuisine—one of a rich variety of
culinary styles, with each style boasting of a distinct flavour.
Rice, for example, is eaten by all—and at both meals—but the gravies of each style are at a
complete variance. They use the same names and, more often than not, the same ingredients for a
delicacy and yet their aroma, flavour, taste, texture and colour can be completely different. There
are subtle differences notwithstanding all the commonness. The Christians use vinegar whereas the
Hindus prefer to use kokum to provide the tang in their respective cuisines. The Goans from the
northern part of the State grind their masalas and coconuts separately while the southerners prefer
to grind them together before squeezing out the goodness through fine muslin. Even eating -
preferences can be different: Hindus like lamb and chicken, Christians prefer pork. Both, however,
prefer fish to any other meat.
Goan food is easy to cook but, make no mistake, it is chilli-hot. That until a few years ago the men
of Goa dominated the kitchens of the Nation’s finest hostelries is eloquent testimony to their
culinary skills.

Assisted by E.B. Almeida

a
SELF A SPP ASC ESE TPES SA SST LLGD SESE ETE VOLE IONE EGE SALE ELE TCEELT TG PD OEGISRTA ELE NTE REL LRT ETERS EELEAP EESTI EEE ELLE
 WEST COAST FOODS
80

Parsee

here is a saying among the Parsees that the community can be divided into two groups: one
that loves good food and the other that loves eating. For one who has witnessed the
gourmandizing of a gourmet spread, I know exactly what the saying means. The occasion:
the Lagan nu Bhonu or wedding feast of a former colleague in Bombay. The nuptials were
still in progress when some people started inching toward the dining area where long tables,
covered with white sheets, were laid out with plantain leaves as table settings. They quietly
proceeded to incline the chairs against the tables—to ‘reserve seats’ for their families. When the
ceremonies were over, there was a virtual stampede followed by a rattling of chairs and a buzz of
anticipation.
Unaware of the ‘reservation system’, all of us (the bride’s colleagues) casually strolled to the
tables, pulled the chairs and sat down. Imagine our surprise when this indignant Parsee lady
stomped over and demanded in her singsong: “Don’t you know these seats are reserved?”
Embarrassed, we were ready to get up and slink away quietly when the bride’s father came to our
rescue. Within minutes, our agony turned into ecstasy as we saw a gourmet extravaganza unfold,
course by course, before us. We lost count after the fourth or the fifth course. Saying ‘No’ was
impossible! It was a memorable meal.
Parsee cuisine has spawned a superabundance of lavish delights, but if any dish can lay claim to
being the ‘national’ dish of the Parsees, it is Dhansak. In fact, Parsees are often called Dhansakias
because of their preference for this one-course meal of brown—caramelized—rice, served witha
potpourri of three or five types of dals, vegetables (like red pumpkin and brinjals) and chunks of
lamb cooked together in a rich, spicy gravy. The usual accompaniment is deep fried (until
chocolate brown) kavab that look like kofta (meatballs)—and a pinta ager. It is usually prepared
on holidays, not because of any religious taboos, but simply because it would be impossible to
digest—and get back to work—on the other days of the week. As the Parsees say: “You need to
sleep it off.’

Assisted by Cyrus R. Todiwala

 GOA PRAWN MASALA
8]

Goa
GOA PRAWN MASALA INGREDIENTS
lkg/2'%4 lb Prawns
pungent seafood delicacy which also makes an excellent cocktail (medium size)
snack.
120ml/4
cup Groundnut Oil
90g/'4 cup Onions
PREPARATION Salt

The Paste
THE PRAWNS: Shell, devein, wash and pat dry. 15 Whole Red Chillies
THE ONIONS: Peel, wash and slice. 20g/2 Tbs Cumin seeds _
THE PASTE: Scrape, wash and roughly cut ginger. Put this and the 5g/1 tsp Turmeric
remaining ingredients in a blender, add water (approx 90ml/6 Tbs) and 15 Cloves
make a fine paste. 2 sticks Cinnamon (1-inch)
30g/3 Tbs Ginger
90ml/6
Tés Malt Vinegar
COOKING:
Heat oil in a kadhai, add onions and saute over medium heat until
golden brown. Add the paste and bhunno until the fat leaves the masala.
Then add prawns and bhunno until cooked and dry. Adjust the
seasoning.

TO SERVE
Serves: 4
Remove to a dish and serve with bread or skewered on toothpicks for Preparation time: 25 minutes
cocktails. Cooking time: 10 minutes

PRAWN BALCHAO INGREDIENTS

Ikg/2% lb Prawns
he English loved it so much that they started bottling it as a pickle, (small size)
but they added preservatives. This is how the real thing is nrade—it Groundnut Oil to deep fry
tastes best after it is allowed to ‘pickle’ for a day or two. prawns
150m1/24 cup Groundnut Oil

PREPARATION 160g/1
cup Onions
120g/4
cup Tomatoes
10 Curry Leaves
THE PRAWNS: Shell, devein, wash and pat dry. Heat oil in a kadhai to
smoking point and deep fry prawns for 2 minutes. Remove. —Continued
 GOA CURRY
82
10g/2'4 tsp Sugar THE VEGETABLES: Peel, wash and chop onions. Wash and chop
Salt tomatoes. Wash curry leaves.
THE PASTE: Peel garlic. Scrape, wash and roughly cut ginger. Put these
The Paste
and the remaining ingredients in a blender, make a fine paste.
20 Whole Red Chillies
4 sticks Cinnamon (I-inch)
15 Green Cardamom COOKING
15 Cloves
3g/ 1 tsp Black Peppercorns Heat oil in a handi, add onions and saute over medium heat until golden
3g/1 tsp Cumin seeds brown. Add tomatoes, stir for a minute, add the paste and bhunno for 2.
10g/1 Tbs Garlic minutes. Then add the prawns and stir until cooked. Now add curry
30g/3 Tbs Ginger leaves and sugar, stir. Adjust the seasoning.
150ml/34 cup Malt Vinegar

Serves: 4
TO SERVE
Preparation time:40 minutes
Cooking time: |2 minutes Remove to a dish and serve with boiled rice or a bread of your choice.

INGREDIENTS
GOA CURRY
750g/ 124 lb Pomfret
120ml/'4cup Groundnut Oil he traditional fish curry of the Konkan, the Goa Curry like most
Goan cooking is chilli ‘hot’ but delicious.
60g/Yscup Onions
60g/%
Tomatoes
cup
100m1/7 Tbs Coconut Milk’ PREPARATION
(First extract)*
100ml/7 Tbs Coconut Milk THE FISH: Clean, wash and make darnes.
(Second extract)*
4 Green Chillies
THE VEGETABLES: Peel, wash and slice onions. Wash and chop
tomatoes. Remove stems, wash, slit and deseed green chillies.
Salt
THE PASTE: Peel and roughly chop garlic. Scrape, washand roughly cut
The Paste ginger. Deseed tamarind. Put these and the remaining ingredients in a
15 Whole Red Chillies blender, add water (approx 120m1/!4 cup) and make a fine paste.
15g/7'4 tsp Coriander seeds
5g/ 1% tsp Cumin seeds
5g/1 tsp Turmeric
COOKING
5g/ 1% tsp Garlic
20g/2 Tbs Ginger
Heat oil in a Aandi, add onions and saute over medium heat until golden
brown. Add tomatoes and the paste, bhunno for 2 minutes, add the
40g/1% oz Tamarind
second extract of coconut milk and water (approx 400ml/ 124 cups)
and bring to a boil. Then add fish and green chillies, simmer for 5
minutes. Adjust the seasoning. Now add the first extract of coconut milk
and bring to a boil.
 GALINA XACUTTI
83

TO SERVE Serves: 4
Preparation time: 40 minutes
Remove to a bowl and serve with boiled rice. Cooking time: 15 minutes

*See section on Coconuts.

GALINA XACUTTI INGREDIENTS

800g/ 134 Ib Chicken (2 birds’
A combination of three sets of masalas—whole spice, dry roasted and
100ml/7 Tbs Groundnut Oi!
tempered—all ground into a fine paste—go into the making of this
100g/24cup Onions
speciality of chicken in a very rich gravy.
100g/'4 cup Tomatoes
200ml/34 cup Coconut Milk
PREPARATION (First extract)*
30m1/2 Tbs Lemon juice
THE CHICKEN: Clean, remove the skin and cut each into 8 pieces. Salt

THE VEGETABLES: Peel, wash and slice onions. Wash and chop 150g/ 1 cup Potatoes
tomatoes. 25g/¥scup Coconut
THE POTATOES AND COCONUT: Boil, cool, peel and cut potatoes into |4-
Groundnut Oil to fry
potatoes and coconut
inch cubes. Remove the brown skin, make '4-inch thick slices and then
cut coconut into 1-inch pieces. Heat oil in a frying pan and saute both
The Paste
these ingredients over medium heat until brown.
30g/3 Tbs Poppy seeds
THE PASTE: Broil poppy seeds, ajwain, mustard seeds and fenugreek on
a tawa, remove and cool. 3g/l
Ajwain
tsp
4g/1
Mustard
tsp seeds _
Heat oil in a frying pan, saute cinnamon and cloves for 30 seconds, 4g/1
Fenugreek
tsp seeds"
remove and cool.
45ml/3 Tbs Groundnut Oil
Peel, wash and roughly chop-onions. Slice coconut and cut into small 2 sticks Cinnamon (1-inch)
pieces. In the oil used to saute cinnamon and cloves, add onions and (0.
Cloves
ao" Got =
coconut, saute until golden brown, add whole red chillies and coriander 1002/24 cup Onions
seeds, stir until the chillies begin to crackle. Remove and cool. 50g/24 cup Coconut
6Chillies
Whole Red
Put the broiled spices, the sauteed spices and the remaining ingredients in
10g/5 tsp Coriander seeds
a blender, add water (approx 350ml/1'4 cups) and make a fine paste.
3g/|tsp Black Peppercorns
6Green Cardamom
COOKING 5 Phulpatri
1g/4 tsp Nutmeg powder.
Heat oil in a handi, add onions and saute over medium heat until golden lg/'4 tsp Mace powder
brown. Add tomatoes and the paste, bhunno for 2 minutes, add chicken,
stir, add water (approx 400m1/ 14 cups), bring to a boil and simmer —Continued
until tender. Now add coconut milk and lemon juice, bring to a boil.
Adjust the seasoning.
 VINDALOO
84

TO SERVE
Serves: 4
Preparation time: 1:20 hours Remove to a bowl, garnish with the fried potatoes and coconut and
Cooking time: 22-23 minutes serve with boiled rice.

*See section on Coconuts.

INGREDIENTS
VINDALOO
675g/ 1% lb Leg of Pork
100g/
Groundnut
7Tbs Oil ne of the many tasty—though ‘hot’—pork dishes from Goa,
Vindaloo, too, tastes better if it is allowed to ‘pickle’ for a day.
60g/Yscup Onions
200g/ 1'4cups Potatoes
Groundnut Oil to fry potatoes PREPARATION
100g/3'4 oz Pickled Onions
Salt THE PORK: Clean, remove the excess fat, debone and cut into I-inch
15g/% cup Coriander cubes.

The Marination
THE VEGETABLES: Peel, wash and finely chop onions. Peel, wash and
120ml/'4 cup Malt Vinegar
cut potatoes into cubes; heat oil in a kadhai and deep fry potatoes over
medium heat until golden brown. Clean, wash and chop coriander.
5g/1'4 tsp Black Peppercorns
5g/1% tsp Sugar THE MARINATION: Pound pepper with a pestle. Remove stems,
wash, slit and deseed green chillies. Mix these and the remaining
8 Green Cardamom
ingredients in a bowl and leave the pork cubes in this marinade for at
8 Cloves-
least | hour.
3 Green Chillies
THE PASTE: Peel and roughly chop garlic. Scrape, wash and roughly
Salt
chop ginger. Put these and the remaining ingredients in a blender, add
The Paste
water (approx 60ml1/'% cup) and make a fine paste.
8 Whole Red Chillies
10 sticks Cinnamon (1-inch) COOKING
3g/1 tsp Cumin seeds
10g/5
Coriander
tsp seeds Heat oil in a pan, add onions and saute over medium heat until golden
3g/%
Turmeric
tsp brown. Add the paste and bhunno until the fat leaves the masala. Then
10g/1 Tbs Garlic add the pork, alongwith the marinade, stir for 2 minutes, add water
30g/3 Tbs Ginger (approx 1.2 litres/5 cups), bring to a boil, cover and simmer until pork is
100ml/7 Tbs Malt Vinegar tender. Now add potatoes and pickled onions, cook until the potatoes
are soft. Adjust the seasoning.

Serves: 4 TO SERVE
Preparation time:40 minutes
Cooking time: 45 minutes Transfer to a dish, garnish with coriander and serve with boiled rice.
—ns— eee ee
eT
Re
 SORPOTEL

SORPOTEL INGREDIENTS
6752/14 lb Leg of Pork
pork and pork-liver delicacy, cooked in butter in a significant 225¢/%5
Ib Pork Liver
departure from the traditional medium of fat—groundnut oil.
3g/'4 tsp Turmeric
Salt
PREPARATION Groundnut Oil to shallow fry
pork and liver
THE PORK AND PORK LIVER: Clean, remove the excess fat, debone and cut 300g/ 1'/;cups Butter
pork into I-inch cubes. Clean and cut liver into l-inch cubes. Put liver in 160g/ 1 cup Onions
a handi, add turmeric, salt and water, blanch and drain. Heat oil ina 100g/'4 cup Tomatoes
frying pan and shallow fry pork and pork liver—separately—over high 100m1/7 Tbs Pork Blood
heat until golden brown. (optional)

THE VEGETABLES: Peel, wash and slice onions. Wash and chop 1Sml/1
Tbs Vinegar
tomatoes. The Paste
THE BLOOD: Mix 15ml/1 Tbs of vinegar with 15ml/1 Tbs of water ina 5 Whole Red Chilhies
handi, bring to a boil, add blood and boil until it becomes very thick. 5g/ 114 tsp Black Peppercoms
Remove, cool, refrigerate until it solidifies and grate.
3g/1 tsp Cumin seeds
THE PASTE: Peel and roughly chop garlic. Scrape, wash and roughly 3 Cloves
chop ginger. Put these and the remaining ingredients in a blender, add 3 Green Cardamom
water (approx 60ml/'4 cup) and make a fine paste.
5g/ 1% tsp Garlic
30g/3 Tbs Ginger
COOKING

Melt butter in a handi, add onions and saute over medium heat until
golden brown. Add tomatoes, stir for a minute, add the paste and
bhunno until the fat leaves the masala. Then add pork, stir, add water
(approx 1.4 litres/524cups), bring to a boil, cover and simmer until
pork is nearly cooked. Now add liver, cook for 10 minutes, add the
grated blood and stir. Adjust the seasoning.

TO SERVE Serves: 4
Preparation time: 40 minutes
Remove to a bowl and serve with boiled rice. Cooking time: | hour
 KOLMINO PATIO
86

Parsee

INGREDIENTS
KOLMINO PATIO
800g/ 1% Ib Prawns
(medium size) O ne of the more popular Parsi delicacies, the prawn patio is a rare
100g/'4 cup Ghee curry. It is sharp (chillies), sweet (jaggery) and sour (tamarind and
160g/ 1 cup Onions lemon juice).
20g/2 Tbs Garlic
5 Whole Red Chillies PREPARATION
10g/5 tsp Coriander seeds
5 Cloves
THE PRAWNS: ‘Shell, devein, wash and pat dry.
1 stick Cinnamon (I-inch)
THE VEGETABLES: Peel, wash and chop onions. Peel garlic. Clean, wash
5g/1 tsp Turmeric
and chop coriander.
5g/ 134 tsp Cumin seeds
5g/ 1 tsp Red Chilli powder THE PASTE: Put garlic, whole red chillies, coriander seeds, cloves,
cinnamon, turmeric, cumin seeds and red chilli powder ina blender, add
50g/2 0z Tamarind pulp
water (approx 60ml/'4 cup) and make a fine paste.
30g/ | oz Jaggery
15g/'%4 cup Coriander
20m1/4 tsp Lemon juice COOKING
Salt
Heat ghee in a handi, add onions and saute over medium heat until golden
brown. Add the paste and bhunno until the fat leaves the masala. Then
add prawns, bhunno for a minute, add water (approx 500ml1/2 cups),
bring to a boil and simmer until prawns are cooked. Now add tamarind,
jaggery, the chopped coriander and lemon juice, stir- for 2 minutes.
Adjust the seasoning.
nn

Serves; 4 TO SERVE
Preparation time: 40 minutes
Cooking time: 15 minutes Remove to a dish and serve with brown rice (see recipe for Dhansak).

{INGREDIENTS
450g/1 lb Pomfret
DHAN-DAL PATIO
100g/'4 cup Ghee
WBs is rice, dal is lentil and Dhan-dal Patio is a fish curry served
with rice and lentils.
le Paces
Hi ee Ge ed
 eS
PATRANI MACHCHI
SSS SSS ssi
EE
SS
17
SS

120g/34 cup Onions

PREPARATION 10g/ 1 Tbs Garlic
ee ee = 1. Whole Red’ Chillies
THE FISH: Clean, wash and cut into darnes. 82/234 tsp Cumin seeds
THE VEGETABLES: Peel, wash and slice onions. Peel garlic.Clean, wash 38/4 tsp Turmeric
and chop coriander. Wash and chop tomatoes. Remove stems, wash and 15g/% cup Coriander
cut brinjals into 34-inch cubes, immerse in water. 5g/1 tsp Dhansak Masala*
THE PASTE: Put garlic, red chillies and cumin seeds in a blender, add _—'!208/'4 cup Tomatoes
water (approx 60ml/'4 cup) and make a fine paste. Salt
THE MORI DAL: Pick and wash the lentil in running water. Peel, wash 98/2 02 Tamarind pulp
and slice onions. Peel and chop garlic. 10g/1 Tbs Jaggery
100g/3'4 oz Brinjals
Salt
COOKING
The Mori Dal
Heat ghee in a handi, add onions and saute over medium heat until 150g/% cup Tur dal
_ brown. Add the paste and turmeric, bhunno foraminute, add coriander
3g/% tsp Turmeric
and dhansak masala, stir for 30 seconds, add tomatoes and bhunno until
Salt
the masala becomes smooth. Then add water (approx 400ml/ 174 cup)
bring to boil, cover and simmer for 5 minutes. Adjust the seasoning. [208/’Acup-Ghee
Now add tamarind and jaggery, simmer for 2-3 minutes, add brinjals —'208/ cup Onions
and when half-cooked add fish and simmer until cooked. 5g/ 1 tsp Garlic
Put the dal ina handi, add turmeric, salt and water (approx 800ml1/3!4
cups) and boil until the lentil is soft. Force through a sieve.
Heat ghee in a separate handi, add onions and saute over medium heat
until light brown. Remove half the onions for garnish, add garlic to the
remaining half and saute until brown. Add the pureed dal and stir for 2
minutes. Adjust the seasoning.
Serves: 4
Yield:
Mori dal—400g/14 oz
TO SERVE
Patio—1.1 kg/2¥4 Ib
Preparation time: | hour
Remove the fish and the dal to separate bowls and serve with boiled rice —_Cooking time:
in individual plates as follows: make a bed of boiled rice, pour the mori — Mori dal—20 minutes
dal, top with fish patio and garnish with fried onions. Patio—20 minutes

*See section on Masalas.

PATRANI MACHCHI INGREDIENTS

134 Ib Fish
' ne e- 800g/
.
weight-wa tchers ; dream, the Patrani Machchi is a Parsi delicacy 90ml/6 Tbs Malt Vinegar
cooked without any fat whatsoever. No Parsi banquet is complete ——_
without it. —Cdntinued
 KHEEMA-SALI
88
aaaEER
Salt
Banana leaves to wrap each PREPARATION
fillet separately
30m1/2Tbs Groundnut Oil THE FISH: Clean, wash, pat dry, make fillets and cut each fillet into two.
3 Lemons Make horizontal slits in the pieces to create pockets. Sprinkle vinegar
and salt, marinate for 30 minutes.
The Coconut Chutney
THE BANANA LEAVES: Trim, wash and wipe.
100g/ IY, cup Fresh Coconut
50g/1
Coriander
cup THE CHUTNEY: Remove the brown skin and grate coconut. Clean, wash
6 Green Chillies and chop coriander. Remove stems, wash, slit and deseed green chillies.
Peel and roughly chop garlic. Put these and the remaining ingredients in
20g/2
Garlic
Tbs
a blender and make a fine paste.
5g/ 1 tsp Red Chilli powder
15g/7'4 tsp Coriander seeds
THE WRAPPING: Stuff the pockets in the fish pieces with chutney and
spread the rest on both sides. Apply oil on banana leaves and wrap each
15g/5 tsp Cumin seeds
piece separately.
60m1/4 Tbs Lemon juice
THE LEMONS: Wash and cut into wedges.
wie se
25g/2 Tbs Sugar

COOKING

Steam the fish in a steamer’or an /dli maker for 30 minutes.

Serves: 4 TO SERVE
Preparation time:40 minutes
Cooking time: 30 minutes Unwrap the fish, arrange on a platter and serve with lemon wedges.

INGREDIENTS
KHEEMA-SALI
750g/ 12/4, lb Lamb Mince
250g/
Potatoes
124 cups eee lamb mince topped with sali or straw potatoes.
Ghee to deep fry Sali
1202,%A cup Ghee PREPARATION
160g; cupOnions
10g: | Tbs Garlic THE POTATOES: Peel, wash, cut into match-sticks and immerse in
10g/1 Tbs Ginger water. Drain. Heat ghee ina kadhai and deep fry over medium heat until
8Whole Red Chillies golden brown. Remove.
10g/ 1 Tbs Cumin seeds THE REMAINING VEGETABLES: Peel, wash and slice onions. Peel garlic.
5g/ 1 tsp Red Chilli powder Scrape, wash and roughly cut ginger. Wash and chop tomatoes.
3g/4
Turmeric
tsp THE PASTE: Put garlic, ginger, whole red chillies and cuminina blender,
90g/‘;cup Tomatoes add water (approx 20m1/4 tsp) and make a fine paste.
Salt al

30m1/2 Tbs Worcester Sauce

COOKING
3Cml/2 Tbs Vinegar
10g/ 2% tsp Sugar Heat ghee in a handi, add onions and saute over medium heat until
 DHANSAK
1 .
ee

brown. Add the paste, red chilli powder and turmeric, stir for a minute,
add tomatoes and bhunno until the masala becomes smooth. Then add
the mince, bhunno until the liquid has evaporated, add water (approx
200ml/% cup), cover and simmer until cooked and the liquid has
evaporated. Adjust the seasoning. Now add Worcester sauce, vinegar
and sugar, stir for 2 minutes.

TO SERVE
Serves: 4
Transfer to a dish, sprinkle the straw potatoes and serve with an Indian Preparation time: 50 minutes
bread of your choice. Cooking time: 30 minutes

DHANSAK INGREDIENTS
The Dhansak
rT che Parsi ‘National’ dish, this mutton, lentil and vegetable potpourri, 750g/ 124 lb Leg of Spring
served with brown rice, is essentially a lunch-time delicacy, Lamb
consumed with a pint of lager.
100g/'4 cup Masoor dal
200g/ 1 cup Ghee
PREPARATION
200g/1'4 cups Onions

THE LAMB: Clean and cut into l-inch chunks.

jog
TtsGmer =
10g/ 1 Tbs Garlic
THE LENTILS: Pick, wash in running water and soak the dals together 50g/2 0z Potatoes
for 30 minutes. Drain.
1002/34 oz Brinjals
THE VEGETABLES: Peel, wash and slice onions. Scrape, wash and chop 100g/3'%4 oz Red Pumpkin
ginger. Peel and chop garlic. Peel, wash and cut potatoes into cubes. 300g/1/scups Tomatoes ~
Remove stems, wash and cut brinjals into cubes. Immerse potatoes and
5g/ | tsp Red Chilli powder
brinjals in water. Peel and cut red pumpkin into cubes. Wash and chop
3g/'4 tsp Turmeric
tomatoes. Remove stems, wash, slit and deseed green chillies. Clean,
Salt
wash and chop coriander.
2 Green Chillies
THE DRY MASALA: Broil cumin and whole red chillies on a tawa. Cool 10 Black Peppercorns
and grind. 50g/2
Tamarind
oz pulp —
THE KAVAB: Peel, wash and finely chop onions. Clean, wash and chop 50g/2
Butter
oz
coriander and mint. Remove stems, wash, slit, deseed and finely chop 3g/1 tsp Cumin seeds __
green chillies. Slice off the edges, soak bread in water
and squeeze. Mix 2Chillies
Whole Red
well all the ingredients, except breadcrumbs and ghee. Divide into 20
20g/4 tsp Dhansak Masala*
equals portions, make balls and roll in breadcrumbs.
30g/'4 cup Coriander
Heat ghee in a kadhai and deep fry the kavab over low heat until cooked
and brown. |
THE OVEN: Pre-heat to 375°F. — Continued

Pa a a Na SE ‘
Nee eae aaaacacaaaaaaaaaaal
DHANSAK
NN eee reer reneae
ae

The Kavab THE BROWN RICE: Pick, wash in running water and soak rice for 30
minutes. Drain. Peel, wash and slice onions. Put sugar in a pan,
300g/24 Ib Lamb Mince
caramelize until brown, add water (approx 180ml1/% cup) and simmer
96g/'4 cup Onions
until smooth. Heat ghee in a handi, add oniuns and saute over medium
15g/2'4 tsp Ginger-Garlic heat until brown. Remove half the onions for garnish. Add cinnamon,
paste
cloves, salt and rice to the remaining half, stir for a minute, add the
2g/'/3 tsp Turmeric
caramel and water (approx 600ml/2'4 cups), bring to a boil. Then
15g/% cup Coriander simmer until the liquid has evaporated. Place a wet cloth on top, cover
10g/2 Tbs Mint with a lid and put on dum in the pre-heated oven for 15 minutes.
4 Green Chillies
RSSR
30ml/2 Tbs Worcester Sauce
60g/3 Slices Bread COOKING
| Egg
Salt Heat ghee ina pan, add onions, ginger and garlic and saute over medium
150g/ 114 cups Breadcrumbs heat for 2 minutes. Add lamb and bhunno for 10 minutes. Then add the
dals, potatoes, brinjals, pumpkin, tomatoes, red chillies, turmeric, salt,
Ghee to deep fry
green chillies and black peppercorns, bhunno for 2-3 minutes, add water
(approx 1.6 litres/ 624 cups), bring to a boil, coverand simmer until the
The Rice
meat is tender and lentils and vegetables are mashed. Remove the lamb
400g/2 cups Basmati Rice pieces from the handi and force the lentils and vegetables through a
100g/'4 cup Ghee strainer into a separate handi. Add tamarind and stir. Adjust the
120g/%
cup Onions seasoning.
2 sticks Cinnamon (1-inch) Heat butter in a separate handi, add the dry masala and Dhansak
lOCloves-
= —i—tititsS masala, stir over medium heat for 30 seconds. Add the cooked lamb and
iee aig the strained mash, bring to a boil, reduce to low heat and cook for 5
20g/5 tsp Sugar
minutes.

TO SERVE
Serves: 4
Preparation time: 1:50 hours
Cooking time: 1:25 hours Transfer to a dish, garnish with coriander and serve with Brown Rice.

*See section on Masalas.

 PUNJAB
With Manjit S. Gill

unjab—the Land of Five Rivers. Punjab—the Land of Milk and Honey. Punjab—the
Granary of the Subcontinent. Punjab—the Land ofan Indomitable People, reflecting the
Spirit of Man. Punjab—the Land of Virile Men, the symbol of India’s Manhood.
Punjab—Home of the tandoor and a superlative, robust cuisine. A cuisine richly
influenced by all the invaders—from Alexander the Greek to Nadir Shah the Persian to Sher Shah
the Afghan to Babar the Mongol.
A decade ago, on my first visit to London, I was overjoyed to see so many ‘Indian’ restaurants.
Imagine my dismay when I discovered that almost all of them were Bangladeshi joints, miserable
holes in the wall, selling ‘curry (made with curry powder—sic!) and rice’ with ‘poppadom’. Then,
just five years later, the city boasted of some of the finest Indian restaurants—anywhere. A new
breed of restaurateurs—the Punjabi from India and Pakistan—had ‘invaded’ Blighty and had
launched a ‘campaign’ across the Atlantic. Thanks to them the world discovered the joys of Indian
cooking. If India’s culinary art has, at last, found its rightful place among the great cuisines of the
world, it is primarily because of the trail blazed by Punjabi food.

Manoir SINGH GILL: Star of Queen Elizabeth IlI’s tenth

world cruise (Singapore-India leg), this Executive Chef of
the Welcomgroup Maurya Sheraton, New Delhi—a
position he earned at 30—is obviously accustomed to
leading the pack. Gill is widely acknowledged as the man
who not only rejuvenated an indisciplined and disgruntled
team but took it to such soaring heights—note the culinary
success of Bukhara and Mayur, Delhi's leading Indian
restaurants—that it established his as one of the finest
kitchens in India.
 PUNJAB
pS SS
92
Punjab’s other grand contribution is the dhaaba—the roadside eatery that is an important feature
on our network of national and state highways. Once frequented exclusively by thousands of
truckers, today it is fashionable to ‘slum’ at a dhaaba—urban or roadside. Puran Singh’s Dhaaba in
Ambala has acquired a nationwide reputation for the excellence of its food. Moti Mahal in Delhi
made Tandoori Chicken a truly international favourite.
What makes Punjabi food so special? In a word, the tandoor. The tandoor is much more than a
versatile kitchen equipment—it is a social institution. In the villages of Punjab, the communal
tandoor, dug in the ground, is a meeting place for the rural womenfolk—just like the village well—
who bring kneaded atta and, occasionally, marinated meats to have them cookedand to have a
chat. This is not a rural phenomenon alone. Until just a few years ago, every urban neighbourhood
had its communal tandoor as well. Many have one even today.
Punjabi cuisine boasts of equally good non-tandoori food. The remarkable aspect of this
‘other’ cuisine is its simplicity. The Punjabis delight in the simplest food. The earthy Sarson-da-
Saag (with knobs of white butter, Makki-ki-Rotiand Lassi or churned yoghurt) is Punjab’s eternal
dish.
To go with their fine cuisine, the Punjabis have, per se, a wonderfully simple ‘code’ of eating. A
meal of vegetables and lentils, for example, iseaten with a choprhya (spread with desi ghee—clarified
butter —or plain butter) Phulka or Tandoori Paratha. On the other hand, a meat delicacy is usually
eaten with a plain Phulka or Tandoori Roti—sans ghee or butter—accompanied by nothing more
than a raita and onions split open by smashing them with a fist.
Traditionally, meat dishes are prepared by menfolk, mostly on holidays, with a great deal of flair.
The women are, by and large, vegetarian though they are not averse to cooking meat. Other
holiday favourites include stuffed Paratha with yoghurt, lentils (da/ or red kidney beans) with
Pulao end, occasionally, Poori with potatoes.

Assisted by Satinderpal §. Chaudhury

 AMRITSARI MACHCHI
93

AMRITSARI MACHCHI INGREDIENTS

1.2kg/27/ Ib Fish
|ieee with ajwain, this is a popular fish delicacy. (centre-bone river fish)
120ml1/'4 cup Malt Vinegar

PREPARATION a a ee
50g/3 Tbs Ginger paste
50g/3 Tbs Garlic paste
THE FISH: Clean, wash, cut into '4 inch thick darnes and pat dry.
10g/3
Ajwain
Tbs
THE FIRST MARINATION: Dissolve salt in vinegar and leave the fish in
this marinade for at least 25 minutes. Remove, place between two
5g/ |tsp Red Chilli powder
3g/'4 tsp Turmeric
napkins and press gently to remove the excess moisture. (The moisture
can ruin the second marinade by making it too sour.) 38/4 tspWhite Pepper powder
THE SECOND MARINATION: Mix the ginger and garlic pastes, ajwain,
150g/1
cup.Gramflour
red chillies, turmeric, pepper and salt with gramflour, add water A few drops Orange Colour
(approx 100ml/7 Tbs) and orange colour, make a paste of coating Ghee
deepfry
to
consistency. Apply the paste on both sides of the darnes and arrange 2 Lemons
them on a tray at least an inch apart. Keep aside for 20 minutes. Chaat
Masala*
tosprinkle
THE LEMONS: Wash and cut into wedges.

COOKING

Heat ghee in a kadhai and deep fry the fish over medium heat until crisp.

TO SERVE
Serves: 4
Preparation time: 45 minutes
Arrange on a flat dish, sprinkle chaat masala and serve with lemon Cooking time: 5-6 minutes
wedges. for each lot

Note: Amritsari Machchi makes an excellent snack—tea-time and cocktail.

*See section on Masalas.

MOGEWALA KUKARH INGREDIENTS

1.2kg/22/ lb Breasts of
ikka of chicken, skewered with tomatoes, onions, capsicum and Chicken
mint leaves, cooked in a shahi jeera-flavoured masala. 450g/1 lb Tomatoes
225z2/'%4 tb Onions

PREPARATION 2258/4
Ib Capsicum
25 Mint Leaves
100g/'4 cup Ghee
THE CHICKEN: Clean, remove the skin, debone and cut into 1-inch tikka.
4 Bay Leaves
THE VEGETABLES: Wash, cut 225g/1 cup tomatoes into quarters,
remove the pulp and make I-inclr pieces, chop the rest for masala. Peel, —Continued
 MAKHANI CHOOZE
94
25g/4 tsp Ginger paste wash and quarter one-third of the onions, separate the layers, chop the
25g/4 tsp Garlic paste rest for masala. Remove stems, wash, cut capsicum into halves, deseed
10g/ 1 Tbs Kashmiri Deghi and make I-inch pieces. Clean and wash mint.
Mirch (or Paprika) THE SKEWERING: Skewer the tikka and vegetables on 3-inch wooden
3g/1 tsp Black Cumin seeds sticks in the following order: tikka, tomato, mint leaf, tikka, onion, mint
5g/1 tsp Garam Masala leaf, tikka and capsicum.
Salt

COOKING

Heat ghee in a handi, add onions and saute over medium heat until light
brown. Add bay leaves and the ginger and garlic pastes, saute until
onions are golden brown. Then add tomatoes and deghi mirch (or
paprika), bhunno until the fat leaves the masala. Place the skewers in the
handi and bhunno until chicken is tender. Sprinkle cumin, stir, sprinkle
garam masala and stir. Adjust the seasoning.

TO SERVE
Serves: 4
Preparation time: | hour Arrange the skewers on a flat dish and spread the masala on top. Serve
Cooking time: 30 minutes with Phulka*.

*See section on Breads.

INGREDIENTS
MAKHANI CHOOZE
2 Murgh Tandoori*
lso known as Butter Chicken, this is easily the most popular Indian
The Gravy poultry delicacy after Murgh Tandoori or Tandoori Chicken.
250g/9 oz Butter
50g/3
Ginger
Tbs paste
50g/3 Tbs Garlic paste PREPARATION
1kg/4'%4cups Tomatoes _
Sait): ~ Pasi THE CHICKEN: Cut each into 8 pieces.
10g/1
GingerTbs THE VEGETABLES: Wash, and rougnly chop tomatoes. Scrape, washand
8Green Chillies chop ginger. Remove stems, wash, slit, deseed and chop green chillies.
30g/5
Cashewnut
tsp paste Clean, wash and chop coriander.
3g/\4
Kashmiri
tsp Deghi
Mirch (or Paprika) COOKING
150m1/?4 cup Cream
20g/%s
Coriander
cup Melt half the butter in a handi, add the ginger and garlic pastes, stir over
medium heat until the liquid evaporates. Add tomatoes, salt and water
(approx 500ml1/2 cups), cover and simmer until mashed. Force the gravy
i mmm
 PATIALASHAHI MEAT
pei
through a finely meshed sieve (or food mill) into a separate handi and
keep aside.
Melt the remaining butter in a kadhai, add chopped ginger and green
chillies, saute over medium heat for a minute. Add cashewnut paste,
bhunno until light brown, add deghi mirch (or paprika) and stir (the
mirch is used to provide a brighter red colour). Then add the sieved
gravy, bring to a boil, add Murgh Tandoori and simmer for 7-8
minutes. Stir-in cream. Adjust the seasoning.
Serves: 4
Preparation time: 20 minutes
TO SERVE (Plus time taken to roast
chicken)
Remove to a bowl, garnish with coriander and serve with Naan**. Cooking time: 45 minutes

*See section on Kebab.

**See section on Breads.

PATIALASHAHI MEAT a a
1.2kg/27A Ib Leg of Spring
delicacy from the splendoured kitchen of the Royal House of Lamb
Patiala—purportedly a favourite with the great gourmet Maharaja 125g/%s cup Ghee
Bhupendra Singh. 250/14 cups Onions
Salt

PREPARATION 25g/4 tsp Ginger paste

25g/4 tsp Garlic paste

THE LAMB: Clean, debone and cut into 1l-inch boti. 4 Black Cardamom
: 5 Cloves
THE VEGETABLES: Peel,
wash and chop onions. Wash and chop
: i j roundels. Clean, wash 2 Bay Leaves
cut ginger into thin pci less Bsee
«Ea
sabi 2 sticks Cinnamon (1-inch)
state RtSeey ade any
: 3g/ 1 tsp Black Peppercorns
THE PEPPER: Pound with a pestle.
5g/ 1 tsp Red Chilli powder
THE CUMIN: Put in a blender and make a fine powder. HUMMER ae
20g/4 tsp Coriander powder

COOKING 250g/1 cup Tomatoes

—
a —___ 2088/2 Ths Ginger
Heat ghee in a handi, add boti, onions and salt, bhunno over low heat 12g/4 tsp Son seeds
until both are light brown. Add the ginger and garlic pastes, bhunnofor = 20g/'/3 cup Coriander
8-10 minutes, add cardamom, cloves, bay leaves, cinnamon and pepper,
stir for 30 seconds. Then add water (approx 750ml1/3 cups), cover and —Continued
simmer, stirring occasionally, until lamb is tender. Remove the boti
from the gravy and keep aside. Add red chillies and turmeric to the
gravy, stir, add coriander powder and stir. Increase to medium heat, add
a
aS SS TE TE LS ES
 MEAT BELLI RAM
96
ee

tomatoes and bhunno until mashed, add water (approx 60ml/'4 cup)
and simmer.
Meanwhile, skewer a ginger roundel between 2 boti on 2-inch wooden
sticks, place the skewers in the gravy and simmer for 5 minutes,
turning the skewers at regular intervals. Add cumin powder and stir for
a minute. Adjust the seasoning.

TO SERVE
Serves: 4
Preparation time: 30 minutes Arrange the skewers on a flatidish, pour on the gravy, garnish with
Cooking time: 1:45 hours coriander and serve with Tandoori Paratha*.

*See section on Breads.

INGREDIENTS
MEAT BELLI RAM
1.2kg/27A lb Spring Lamb
(assorted cuts) n integral part of every banquet ‘created’ by Lahore’s Masterchef
600/274 cups Yoghurt Belli Ram—the undisputed King of Punjabi cooking prior to
500g/3 cups Onions Partition—was this lamb delicacy. We have tried to reproduce it to the
70g/7
Ginger
Tbs best of our ability—in tribute.
50g/5 Tbs Garlic
10
Cardamom
Green PREPARATION
5 Cloves
2 sticks Cinnamon (1-inch) THE LAMB: Clean and cut breast and saddle into 1'4-inch chunks; clean
Salt ; chops.
10g/2 tsp Kashmiri
Deghi THE YOGHURT: Whisk in a large bowl.
Mirch.(or Paprika)
1258/ % cup Ghee
THE VEGETABLES: Peel, wash and slice onions. Scrape, wash and finely
chop ginger. Peel and chop garlic.
15g/
Coriander
74 tsp seeds
THE MARINATION: Mix all the ingredients, except coriander seeds and
ghee, with yoghurt and leave the lamb chunks in this marinade for 1:45
hours.

COOKING

Heat ghee in a handi, add coriander seeds and saute over mediun. heat
until they begin to crackle. Transfer the lamb, alongwith the marinade,
bring to a boil, stirring constantly, then cover and simmer, stirring at
regular intervals, until the meat is tender. Uncover, increase to medium
heat and bhunno until the fat leaves the masala. Adjust the seasoning.
—_—_—_— ee? i—_—n?_—_ _=_—_e—
ce
a
MASALEWALIAN CHAAMPAN
97
Cn a

pr

TO SERVE Serves: 4
Preparation time: 2 hours
Remove to a dish and serve with Tandoori Roti*. Cooking time: 1:15 hours

*See section on Breads.

MASALEWALIAN CHAAMPAN INGREDIENTS

1.2kg/224 lb Spring Lamb
weight-watchers delight, these cumin-flavoured lamb chops cook in Chops
their own fat. This isa rare recipe—it does not list ghee, oil or butter 175g/1
cup Onions
as an ingredient.
120g/%4
cup Tomatoes
50g/3 Tbs Ginger paste —
PREPARATION 50g/3 Tbs Garlic paste
225g/1 cup Yoghurt
THE LAMB: Clean and make 2-rib chops. Salt
5g/ 1 tsp Red Chilli powder
THE VEGETABLES: Peel, wash and roughly chop onions. Wash and
roughly chop tomatoes.
6g/2 tsp Cumin seeds
5g/1 tsp Garam Masala
THE YOGHURT: Whisk in a bowl.
THE CUMIN: Put in a blender and make a fine powder. The Garnish
20g/2 Tbs Ginger
THE GARNISH: Scrape, wash and cut ginger into fine juliennes and
15ml1/1 Tbs Lemon juice
immediately marinate in lemon juice until the chops are ready to be
served.

COOKING

Put all the ingredients, except cumin, garam masala and the garnish, ina
kadhai, bring to a boil, cover and simmer until chops are tender.
Remove the chops and keep aside. Bhunno the masala until half the
liquid has evaporated. Add cumin, stir for a minute, return the chops to
the kadhai and simmer for 3 minutes. Sprinkle garam masala and stir.
Adjust the seasoning.

TO SERVE

Arrange the lamb chops ona flat dish, spread the masala on top, garnish Serves: 4
with the marinated ginger juliennes and serve with Phulka or Tandoori Preparation time: 25 minutes
Roti*. Cooking time: 1:10 hours

*See section on Breads.

amen
 RAARHA MEAT
98

INGREDIENTS RAARHA MEAT

1.2kg/274lb Spring Lamb
(assorted cuts)
eb o establish their credentials as amateur chefs, the men of the Punjab
15{{8/%, cup Yoghurt
love to prepare this lamb delicacy. It is also a classic example of the
art of bhunao in Indian cooking.
Sak
150g/%4 cup Ghee es
10 Green Cardamom PREPARATION
4Cardamom”
Black
2 Bay Leaves THE LAMB: Clean and cut breast and saddle into 14-inch chunks; clean
250g/1'4
cups Onions chops. \
50g/3 Tbs Ginger paste _ THE MARINATION: Whisk yoghurt in a large bowl, add salt, mix, and
50g/3 Tbs Garlic paste leave the lamb in this marinade for at least 90 minutes.
25g/5 tsp Coriander powder THE VEGETABLES: Peel, wash and chop onions. Wash and chop
5g/1tsp Red Chilli powder tomatoes. Scrape, wash and roughly chop ginger. Peel and roughly chop
3g/'4 tsp Turmeric garlic.
4008/34
cup Tomatoes __
pe
Ging
oribe
20g/2 Tbs Garlic
COOKING
10g/2 tsp Cumin powder
4 Whole Red Chillies
Heat ghee in a handi, add green cardamom, black cardamom and bay.
leaves, saute over medium heat for 10 seconds, add onions and saute until
light brown. Add the ginger and garlic pastes, stir until the moisture has
evaporated, add coriander, red chilli powder and turmeric, stir.
Then add lamb, alongwith the marinade, bring to a boil, reduce to low
heat, cover and simmer until tender. (Keep adding 30ml/ 2 Tbs of water
at regular intervals to ensure that the meat does not stick.) Now add
tomatoes, chopped ginger and chopped garlic, stir and bhunno until
lamb is napped in the masala. Add cumin and whole red chillies, stir for
a minute. Adjust the seasoning.

Serves: 4
TO SERVE
Preparation time: 2 hours
Cooking time: 1:45 hours Remove to a flat dish and serve with ZJandoori Roti*.

*See section on Breads.

INGREDIENTS PESHAWARI CHHOLE

150g/%4 cup, White Gram
white gram and lamb mince delicacy—from my mother’s
A pinch Soda bi-carb
collection—-perfected by my co-authors for this Section.
 PESHAWARI CHHOLE

Salt
PREPARATION 50g/'%4 cup Ghee
10g/ 1% tsp Ginger
paste
THE GRAM: Pick, wash in running water and soak overnight. Drain. 10g/1% tsp Garlic paste _
THE BOUQUET GARNI: Wrap all the ingredients in muslin and tie with a 3g/ 4 tsp Red Chilli powder
string.
THE MINCE: Peel, wash and chop onions. Wash and chop tomatoes. The Bouquet Garni
THE GARNISH: Scrape, wash and cut ginger into fine juliennes. Wash 2 Tea bags
green chillies, make a slit on one side. Mix mango powder and salt and 4 Black Cardamom
stuff the slit chillies with this mixture. 2 sticks Cinnamon (1-inch)
Heat ghee in a frying panand shallow fry ginger juliennes over medium 2 Bay Leaves
heat until golden brown. Remove. In the same oil, shallow fry the
stuffed chillies until they become bright green (approx | minute). The Mince
400g/14 oz Lamb Mince
75g/6
Ghee Tbs
COOKING 50g//s
cup Onions
10g/ 134 tsp Ginger paste
Put the drained gram in a handi, add soda bi-carb, salt and water 10g/ 134 tsp Garlic paste
(approx 500m1/2 cups), bring to a boil, reduce to low heat, immerse the 5g/1 tsp Coriander
bouquet garni, cover and simmer until gram is cooked. (The tea bags are 120g/%4
cup Tomatoes
used for colouring.) Discard the bouquet garni.
Salt
Heat ghee in a kadhai, add the ginger and garlic pastes, stir over medium 5g/1 tsp Garam Masala
heat for 30 seconds. Add red chillies and water (approx 100m1/7 Tbs),
bhunno for 4-5 minutes. Then add the boiled gram, stir gently for 3-4
The Gamish
minutes, add garam masala and stir gently for a minute. Cautious
10g/1 Tbs Ginger
stirring is important or else the gram will split.
4 Green Chillies
To prepare the mince, heat ghee in a separate kadhai, add mince and
5g/1 tsp Mango powder
saute over medium heat for 2-3 minutes. Add water (approx 200ml/% (Amchur)
cup), stir and simmer until half the liquid has evaporated. Then add the
Salt
remaining ingredients, except garam masala, and simmer. When all the
Ghee to shallow fry
liquid has evaporated, increase to medium heat and bhunno until the fat
leaves the mince. Now add a little more water (approx 75ml1/5 Tbs) and
stir for a minute. (This last addition of water makes the mince soft and
succulent.) Adjust the seasoning. Sprinkle garam masala and stir.

TO SERVE

Make a bed of gram in a bowl, spread the mince on top, garnish with Serves: 4
ginger juliennes and stuffed chillies, serve with Bhatura, Kulcha or Preparation time: 25 minutes
Poori*. Cooking time: 1:45 hours

o
————————— —— oo aSSSaSaSaSa—sSaa>«>«_6_>—@*s

*See section on Breads.

a
aacaaaasaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaasaaaaaaaaaaal
nn Enea
deeeeeee reece
 SARSON KA SAAG
100

INGREDIENTS SARSON KA SAAG

lkg/2'% lb Mustard Leaves
he Punjabi farmer’s winter meal of mustard leaves cooked in white
250g/9 oz Spinach
butter has become a national favourite. Mustard leaves are
8 Green Chillies
pungent—but robust and delicious.
60g/ 2 oz Ginger
Salt
20g/2 Tbs Makki-ka-Atta PREPARATION
(maize flour) —_—_—_—_———-

5g/ | tsp Red Chilli powder = 7}47— MUSTARD AND SPINACH: Clean, wash in running water, roughly
225g/1 cup White Butter shred leaves and finely slice stems. Discard the hard stems.
THE REMAINING VEGETABLES: Remove stems and wash green chillies.
Scrape, wash and roughly cut two-thirds of the ginger, cut the rest into
fine juliennes.

COOKING

Put the mustard, spinach and 4 green chillies in a handi, add the roughly
cut ginger, salt and water (approx 2 litres/8'/3 cups), bring to a boil, coverand
simmer until tender (approx 1:45 hours). Remove, drain and reserve the
excess liquid if any. Put the drained vegetables in a blender and make a
coarse puree. Return the pureed vegetables to the handi, add makki-ka-
atta, red chillies and the remaining green chillies, mix well. Return to
heat, add the reserved liquid and 100g/7 Tbs of butter, cover and
simmer, stirring occasionally, for 30 minutes. Adjust the seasoning.
Meanwhile, to prepare the tempering, melt 100g/7 Tbs of butter in a
frying pan, add the ginger juliennes and saute over medium heat for 2-3
minutes. Bring the simmering sarson to a boil and pour on the
tempering, stir.
mn nS ee ne TT
TO SERVE

Remve to a bowl, garnish with the remaining butter and serve with
Makki-ki- Roti. (Makki-ki-
Roti can be baked in the tandoor or on the
Serves: 4 tawa. Make a firm dough with maize flour, salt and lukewarm water.
Preparation
time: 30 minutes = Follow the method for Tandoori Roti or Phulka as the case may be.
Cooking time: 2:30 hours However, the Roti made on the tawa will not puff up like a Phulka.)

INGREDIENTS HARA CHHOLIA TE PANEER

600g/ 11/3 lb Chholia aes ,
(Fresh Bengal Gram) E very winter, the Punjabi housewife spends half the morning shellin.z
ee fresh Bengal gram. to make one of her vast repertoire of chholiz
 MASALEDAR KARELE
101
dishes—with lamb mince, potatoes, scrambled eggs, as stuffing in a 300g/2/4 lb Paneer*
paratha, as the main ingredient in pulao or, most popularly, with Indian 100g/4
cup Ghee
Cottage Cheese (below).
100g/?Acup
Spring Onions
20g/3'4 tsp Ginger paste

PREPARATION 208/314
tsp Garlic paste
5 Green Chillies ;

THE CHHOLIA: Shell and wash. 3g/ 4 tsp Red Chilli powder
a oe
THE PANEER: Cut into 44-inch chunks.
50ml/2
0z Tomato puree
THE REMAINING VEGETABLES: Peel spring onions, wash and chop the 10g/2 tsp Cumin powder
bulbs, discard the greens. Remove stems, wash, slit, deseed and chop
3g/'4 tsp Garam Masala
green chillies. Scrape, wash and cut ginger into juliennes. Clean, wash
10g/ 1 Tbs Ginger
and chop coriander.
20g/'%3 cup Coriander

COOKING

Heat ghee in a handi, add onions, saute over medium heat until light
brown, add the ginger and garlic pastes and saute until onions are
light brown. Add green chillies, stir, add red chillies and salt, stir,
add tomato puree and bhunno until the fat leaves the masala. Then add
gram, bhunno for 5 minutes, add water (approx 240ml1/1 cup), bringtoa
boil, reduce to medium heat and cook until tender. Now add paneer, stir
for a minute, reduce to low heat and cook for 5 minutes. Adjust the
seasoning. Sprinkle cumin and garam masala, stir for a minute.
| Serves: 4
Preparation time: 35 minutes
TO SERVE
(Plus time taken to shell
Bengal gram, which is also
Remove to a dish, garnish with ginger and coriander, serve with Phulka available in cans)
or Tandoori Roti**. Cooking time: 30 minutes

*See section on Milk.

**See section on Breads.

MASALEDAR KARELE INGREDIENTS —

Ikg/2% |b Bitter Gourd
bitter gourd delicacy—an acquired taste to be sure—stuffed with the (medium size)
scrapings and onions. Bitter gourd is used in blood purifying Salltaaae
Ayurvedic and Unani medicines and tonics, hence its popularity. It is the 16 Button Onions
secret of the healthy—and envied—Indian skin.
Groundnut
Oiltoshallow fry

PREPARATION —Continued

THE BITTER GOURD: Wash, peel, reserve the scrapings and slit on one
 BHARTHA
ns
102 TS Fe

The Filling side. Rub salt on gourd and mix with scrapings, keep aside for at least 30
300g/ 134 cups Onions
minutes (preferably in the sun). Then squeeze the gourd and the
scrapings separately in napkins to ensure both are completely devoid
5g/|tsp Mango powder _
(Amchur)
of moisture. (The procedure ensures that the bitterness is considerably
reduced.)
3g/4 tsp Black Pepper powder
3g/14tsp Red Chilli powder THE BUTTON ONIONS: Peel and wash.
3g/'4 tsp Turmeric THE FILLING: Peel, wash and pound onions to make a coarse paste. Add
the remaining ingredients and mix.
THE STUFFING: Stuff equal quantities of three-fourths of the filling in
the slit gourd and seal by wrapping with a string—to ensure that the
filling does not spill out.

COOKING

Heat oil in a kadhai, shallow fry the stuffed gourd over medium heat,
turning constantly, until cooked. Remove gourd and keep aside. In the
same oil (at least 100m1/7 Tbs, add more if necessary), shallow fry the
remaining filling, the scrapings and button onions until cooked. Return
the gourd to the kadhai and stir for 2 minutes.

TO SERVE
Serves: 4
Preparation time: 1:15 hours Arrange on a flat dish, use button onions to decorate and serve as an
Cooking time: 40 minutes accompanying dish.

Note: Bitter gourd can be stuffed with a variety offillings—the other popular ones being
potatoes and lamb mince.

INGREDIENTS
BHARTHA
Ikg/2% lb Brinjals (large
and round) charcoal-smoked aubergine delicacy, cooked with onions and
150g/34 cup Ghee tomatoes.
3g/1 tsp Cumin seeds __
(20g/% cup Onions PREPARATION
i0g/1
GingerTbs
5g/1
Kashmiri
tsp Deghi THE BRINJALS: Skewer the brinjals, baste witha little ghee and roast ina
Mirch (or Paprika)
medium hot tandoor until the skin starts peeling off. (The process can
Salt also be performed on a charcoal grill, gas stove or oven. The only
$00g/2'%4
cups Tomatoes disadvantage with the latter two is that there will be no charcoal
‘flavour’.) Remove from the skewer and immerse in water to cool. Then
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remove the skin and the stem, chop roughly. (Yield: approx 400g/140z.) 4 Green Chillies
THE REMAINING VEGETABLES: Peel, wash and chop onions. Scrape, —_20g/ 3 cup Coriander
wash and finely chop ginger. Wash and finely chop tomatoes. Remove
stems, wash, slit, deseed and.chop green chillies. Clean, wash and chop
coriander.

COOKING

Heat ghee in a kadhai, add cumin and saute over medium heat until it
begins to crackle. Add onions, saute until! transparent, add ginger and
stir for 30 seconds. Reduce to low heat, add deghi mirch and salt, stir,
add tomatoes and bhunno until the fat starts to leave the sides. Now add
the chopped brinjals and bhunno for 4-5 minutes, add green chillies and
stir. Adjust the seasoning.

TO SERVE
; \ : : ; Serves: 4
Remove to a shallow dish, garnish with coriander and serve with _ Preparation time:
25minutes
Tandoori Roti or Phulka*. Cooking time: 20 minutes

Note: A good Bhartha brinjal is light, large and round. A heavy piece means gge'seeds,
which ruins the delicacy.
*See section on Breads.

KADHI INGREDIENTS
: p : 350g/ 14 cups Yoghurt
preparation of Pakora—gramflour dumplings—simmered in — (y-day old)
ajeieGeaie
a yoghurt-based gravy.
50g/%4
Gh cupee

PREPARATION Se]TspRedChilpowder
3g/'%4 tsp Turmeric
Salt
THE YOGHURT: Whisk in a bowl, add gramflour, red chillies, turmeric
150g/5 oz Potatoes
and salt, mix well.
150g/5 oz Onions
THE VEGETABLES: Peel, wash and cut potatoes and onions into 4-inch
thick roundels. The Pakora

THE PAKORA: Scrape, wash and finely chop ginger. Remove stems, —75g/'4 cup Gramflour
wash, slit, deseed and finely chop green chillies. Sieve gramflour and pinch Soda rb
Abi-ca
soda bi-carb together, add ajwain, Kasoori methi and enough waterto Salt
make thick batter. Add the remaining ingredients and mix well. og tsp Altai
Heat ghee in a kadhai, make 14-inch dumplings and deep fry until
golden brown. Remove and keep aside. — Continued
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 PUNJ RATTANI DAL
106 ee ee
LS
2g/1 tsp Fenugreek
(Kasoori Methi) COOKING
5g/1% tsp Ginger
5 Green Chillies Heat ghee in a handi, add the yoghurt mixture and water (approx
Ghee to deep fry 800m1/3'4 cups), bring to a boil, reduce to low heat and simmer for 8-10
minutes, stirring constantly (or else yoghurt will curdle). Add potatoes,
The Tempering
bring to a boil, reduce to low heat and simmer for 8-10 minutes. Then
25g/5 tsp Ghee
add onions and simmer until potatoes are cooked. Nowadd the Pakora
3g/ 1 tsp Cumin seeds and stir for 2 minutes. Adjust the seasoning. Allow the kadhito simmer.
lg/'% tsp Fenugreek seeds
Meanwhile, to prepare the tempering, heat ghee in a frying pan, add all
1g/'4 tsp Mustard seeds
the seeds and saute over medium heat until cumin begins to crackle. Add
4Chillies
Whole Red red chillies, stir and remove. Bring the simmering kadhi to a boil, pour
on the tempering and stir.

TO SERVE
Serves: 4
Preparation time: 45 minutes
Cooking time: 35 minutes Remove to a bow] and serve with boiled rice.

Note: The Marwaris stir in a pinch of asafoetida in their Kadhi and do not use onions.

INGREDIENTS |
PUNJ RATTANI DAL
30g/7 tsp Moong dal (whole)
30g/7 tsp Masoor dal (whole) combination of five lentils is used to prepare this rarely made
delicacy.
30g/7 tsp Urad dal (whole)
30g/7 tsp Channa dal
30g/'7 tsp Tur dal PREPARATION
75g/6 Tbs Ghee
3g/ 1 tsp Black Cumin seeds THE LENTILS: Pick, wash in running water and immerse for an hour.
50g//3 cup Onions Drain.
10g/2 tsp Coriander powder THE VEGETABLES: Peel, wash and chop onions. Clean, wash and chap
3g) 4 tsp Red Chilli powder coriander.
3g/'4 tsp Turmeric THE TEMPERING: Wash and finely chop tomatoes. Whisk yoghurt in a
Salt bowl.
5g/1 tsp Cumin\powder
5g/1 tsp Fennel powder
20g/ 3 cup Coriander COOKING

The Tempering Heat ghee in a handi, add cumin seeds and saute over medium heat until
60g/4 Tbs White Butter they begin to crackle! Add onions, saute until light brown, add lentils
and bhunno for 4-5 minutes. Then add water (approx 2 litres/8 4
oe
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 DAL AMRITSARI
105
cups), bring to a boil, reduce to low heat and remove the scum. Now add 60g/'4 cup Tomatoes
coriander powder, red chillies, turmeric and salt, cover and simmer until 60g/4% cup Yoghurt
lentils are cooked and two-thirds of the liquid has evaporated. Mash the 3g/'4 tsp Garam Masala
lentils lightly against the sides with a wooden spoon. Sprinkle cumin
powder and fennel powder, stir for 2-3 minutes. Adjust the seasoning.
To prepare the tempering, melt butter in a kadhai, add tomatoes,
yoghurt and garam masala, bhunno over medium heat until the fat
leaves the sides. Transfer the cooked lentils and stir for 3-4 minutes.

TO SERVE
Serves: 4
Remove to a bowl, garnish with coriander and serve with Phulka*, Preparation time: | hour
boiled rice or as an accompaniment. Cooking time: 2:30 hours-

*See section on Breads.

DAL AMRITSARI INGREDIENTS

200g/1 cup Urad dal
lentil delicacy made famous by a dhaaba—roadside eatery—outside (whole)
the Golden Temple in the Holy City of the Sikhs. The Chefs have 50g/% cup Channa dal
perfected the inconstant original. A rare, slow-cooked delicacy, which
Salt
has no spices whatsoever.
20g/2 Tbs Ginger
20g/2 Tbs Garlic
PREPARATION 25ml/5
tsp Groundnut Oil
30g/3 Tbs Onions
THE LENTILS: Pick, wash in running water and soak for at least 30 5 Green Chillies
minutes. Drain. 60g/%4
Tomatoes
cup __
THE VEGETABLES: Scrape, wash and chop ginger. Peel and chop garlic. 5g/1 Tbs Mint
Peel, wash and chop onions. Remove stems, wash, slit, deseed and chop 100g/7
Tbs White Butter
green chillies. Wash and chop tomatoes. Clean and wash mint.
—Continued

COOKING

Put the drained lentils in a handi, add salt and water (approx 2
litres/8'4 cups), bring to a boil, reduce to low heat and remove the scum.
Add two-thirds each of ginger and garlic, cover and simmer until the
dals are cooked and two-thirds of the liquid has evaporated. Mash the
lentils lightly against the sides with a wooden spoon. Adjust the
seasoning.
Heat oil in a kadhai, add onions and saute over medium heat until light
brown. Add the remaining ginger and garlic and saute until onions are
—————
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 DAL MAKHANI
106
nn

brown. Then add green chillies, stir for a minute, add tomatoes and
bhunno until tomatoes are mashed. Transfer the lentils, stir for 2
minutes, then cook until of medium thick consistency.
eT
i

TO SERVE
Serves: 4
Preparation time: 45 minutes Remove to four individual bowls, garnish with mint, top with a knob of
Cooking time: 3 hoitrs butter and serve as an accompaniment.

INGREDIENTS DAL MAKHANI

120g/24 cup Urad dal
(whole) he Nation’s favourite lentil delicacy, the Dal Makhani for reasons
30g/3 Tbs Red Kidney Beans
unknown always tastes best after a day in the refrigerator. However,
do not splurge—the black lentil can cause quite a rumble.
Salt
20g/314tsp Ginger paste _
20g/ 34 tsp Garlic paste — PREPARATION
120ml/4!4
ozTomato puree
5g/ |tsp Réd Chilli powder THE LENTILS: Pick, wash in running water and soak overnight. Drain.
120g/'4 cup White Butter
120ml1/'4 cup Cream
COOKING

Put the drained lentils in a handi, add salt and water (approx 1.5
litres/6'4 cups), bring to boil, cover and simmer until the lentils are
cooked and two-thirds of the liquid has evaporated. Mash the lentils
lightly against the sides with a wooden spoon. Add ginger paste, garlic
paste, tomato puree, red chillies and 100g/7 Tbs of butter, stir and cook
for 45 minutes. Then add cream, stir and cook for 10 minutes. Adjust the
seasoning.

TO SERVE
Serves: 4
Preparation time: 15 minutes Remove to a bowl, garnish with the remaining butter and serve with
Cooking time: 3 hours Tandoori Roti or Phulka*.

*See section on Breads.

 107

RAJASTHAN.
With Manu Mehta &
Late Rani Meena Ranawat Bambulia Kotah

he desert has challenged man since antiquity and has, in fact, spawned the earliest
civilizations. The centuries old battle with nature is what makes the denizens ofthe desert a
breed apart—the only people on earth with joie de vivre.
No one reflects this zest for life better than the Rajasthanis. Their home is the Thar or the Great
Indian Desert. A hundred holidays or even a thousand celebrations elsewhere cannot match the
year-round excitement of the festivals and fairs of Rajasthan, where myth and history interming!e
in explosion after explosion of merriment. With celebration constantly in the air, could exotic
cuisine be far behind? No!
Many a fine kitchen flourishes in the Land of the Princes—within the palaces and without. The
love for shikar has made game a particular favourite with royalty. In the world of good eating,
game cooking is easily the most respected art form—largely because the skills required to clean, cut
and cook game are not the most easily acquired. Wild boar, venison, pheasant, peacock, quail, duck

Manu Menta: In a track flashy with young talent, this

29-year-old is a rarity—a cerebral chef. Not only is he a
sound technician—something to do with his interest in
Science and Computers—but also a fine culinary
craftsman. Mehta is currently Executive Chef at the
Welcomgroup Vadodara, Baroda.
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RAJASTHAN

are all found in the desert and their shikar has spawned incomparable exotic delicacies. There
are as many ways of cooking game as there are Maharajas. Sule, the ‘smoked’ Rajasthani kebab,
for example, is barbecued in eleven different ways. So prized is game meat that what is not
immediately consumed is pickled and preserved, including the rind of boar. Pickled rind is usually
kept under lock and key—produced only before honoured guests and close friends.
At the other end of the spectrum is the vegetarian cuisine of the Maheshwaris of Marwar or
Jodhpur, who eschew even roots—like garlic and onions—because they excite passions. The
sparse rainfall allows minimal vegetation and only a handful of vegetables grow in the desert. The
enterprising Marwaris have made most of the limited resources—they sun-dry the vegetables and
preserve them for the remainder of the year. Remarkably, despite the constraints, they have
created a superlative cuisine. Unfortunately, the non-availability of several sun-dried vegetables—
kehar (a small, berry-like fruit), sangri (akin to beans), phog and many others—pre-empt the
inclusion of many delicacies in this book.
Lentils, in their myriad forms— Moong Dal Khilma, Mongodi Ki Subzi, Besan Ke Gatte—are the
principal source of proteins. Another feature of Maheshwari cooking is the use of mango
powder—a suitable substitute for tomatoes (which are scarce in the desert)—and asafoetida, used
to enhance the taste in the absence of garlic and onions.
 MAAS KE SULE

MAAS KE SULE INGREDIENTS

1.2kg/22/ Ib Vemson*, (lean)
his is the quintessential Rajput kebab made from game (venison,
Clarified Butter for basting
wild boar, sand grouse, quail, partridge), lamb, chicken and fish.
There are 11 different ways of making Sule, some simple, others exotic
The First Marination
(below).
75g/4 cup Raw Papaya
30g/5 tsp Garlic paste
PREPARATION 10g/2 tsp Red Chilli powder
Saloe,. gaan ices
THE VENISON: Clean, debone and cut into 1'4-inch boti.
THE FIRST MARINATION: Peel papaya, deseed, roughly cut, put ina The Second Marination
blender and make a fine paste. Remove, mix with garlic paste, red 120g/'4 cup Yoghurt
chillies and salt. Rub the boti with this mixture and refrigerate for 10 120g/34 cup Onions
hours. Drain off the excess moisture. (Marinate lamb for 2 hours.) 30g/3 Tbs Garlic
THE SECOND MARINATION: Whisk yoghurt in a bowl. Peel, wash and Clarified
Butter to deep fry
evenly slice onions. Peel and evenly slice garlic. Heat clarified butter ina 15g/5 tsp Ginger
frying pan and separately deep fry onions and garlic over medium heat 2g/'4 tsp Clove powder _
until golden brown. Scrape, wash and roughly cut ginger, put in a Sal:
ae
blender, add the fried onions and garlic, clove powder, salt and water
(approx 30ml/2 Tbs), make a fine paste. Mix the paste with the yoghurt The Smoking’
and rub the marinated meat with this mixture. Keep aside for 2 hours. 10 Cloves
THE OVEN: Pre-heat to 350°F. A little Charcoal
THE SKEWERING: Skewer the marinated boti at least an inch apart. 15g/1
Clarified
Tbs Butter
Keep a tray underneath to collect the drippings.

COOKING

Roast in a moderately hot tandoor or charcoal grill for 10-12 minutes, in

a pre-heated oven for 18-20 minutes. Remove and hang the skewers to
allow the excess moisture to drip off (approx 5-6 minutes). Baste with
clarified butter and roast again for 8-10 minutes.
SS

FINISHING
a a

Puta live piece of charcoal in a katori (small metal bowl), place thekatori
in the middle of a large pre-heated casserole. Remove the boti from the
skewers and arrange around the katori, drop the cloves over the coals,
pour on the clarified butter and quickly cover with a lid. Allow the boti

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*The other meats that can be used are wild boar, spring lamb and fish.
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SAFED MAAS

to smoke for 3-5 minutes (see photographs).

TO SERVE
Serves: 4
Preparation time: |2:30 hours
Cooking time: | hour Uncover, remove the katori and serve Sule in the same casserole.

INGREDIENTS
SAFED MAAS
1.2kg/22/ Ib Leg of Spring
Se Maas, literally ‘white meat’, is an ancient Rajasthani delicacy.
Lamb
Salt
225g/l
cup Yoghurt PREPARATION
125g/%scup Ghee
52/1 tsp White Pepper powder THE LAMB: Clean and cut into 1!4-inch chunks. Put in a handi, add salt
20g/2
Ginger
Tbs and water (approx 1.5 litres/6!4 cups) and boil for 5 minutes. Drain and
60g/'4
cup Almonds wash the chunks.
30g/Yscup Coconut THE YOGHURT: Whisk in a bowl, add white pepper and mix well.
4 Green Chillies THE GINGER: Scrape, wash and cut into juliennes.
3g/ '4 tsp White Cardamom
THE ALMOND PASTE: Blanch almonds, cool and remove the skin.
powder
Remove the brown skin and roughly cut coconut. Remove stems, wash,
120ml1/'4 cup Cream slit and deseed green chillies. Put these ingredients in a blender, add
15ml/1 Tbs Lemon juice water (approx 60ml1/'% cup) and make a fine paste.
15ml/1 Tbs Rosewater
THE OVEN: Pre-heat to 275° F.

COOKING

Heat ghee in a handi, add the blanched meat, the spiced yoghurt, ginger,
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| Besan ke Gatte

Maas ki Kadhi
 LAL MAAS
111
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RDSS NG ESAE RT SESH TSF SSS TSEC SSVI

salt and water (approx 800ml1/3' cups), cover and simmer, stirring
occasionally, until the lamb is tender and four-fifths of the liquid has
evaporated. Add the paste and stir for 2 minutes. Sprinkle cardamom
powder and stir. Then add cream, lemon juice and rosewater, stir.
Adjust the seasoning.

FINISHING

Cover the handi with a lid, seal with atta-dough and put it ondumina
pre-heated oven for 15 minutes.

TO SERVE
. Serves: 4
Break the seal, remove the cooked meat toa shallowdishand serve with _ Preparation time: 30 minutes
Phulka’*. Cooking time: 1:30 hours

*See section on Breads.

LAL MAAS INGREDIENTS

1.2kg/274 Ib Leg of Spring
ajasthan’s favourite lamb preparation is only for those with steel- Lamb
lined stomachs—it is easily the ‘hottest’ dish in this collection of 30 Whole Red Chillies
ag ee 150g/34 cup Ghee
60g/'/3 cup Garlic
PREPARATION 200g/ 14 cups Onions
U0 Pp PP i is he aS AS LS ol LS 5 Black Cardamom
THE LAMB: Clean and cut into 1'4-inch chunks. 5 Green Cardamom 2
THE CHILLIES: Remove stems, slit and deseed. 3g/1 tsp Cumin seeds
THE VEGETABLES: Peel and slice garlic. Peel, wash and finely slice ae
onions. Peel, wash and chop coriander. Dit tapSOU UpoMas
; 3g/'4 tsp Turmeric
THE CUMIN: Broil the seeds on a tawa. ar
THE YOGHURT: . Whisk in a bowl,
;
add red chillies,
‘
cumin, coriander
; 20g/'/3 cup Coriander
powder, turmeric and salt, mix well and keep aside for 10 minutes. eS
—Continued

COOKING

Heat ghee in a handi, add garlic and saute over medium heat until
golden brown. Add onions and the black and green cardamom, saute
until onions are golden brown. Then add the meat, bhunno for 4-5
minutes, add the yoghurt mixture and bhunno until the liquid has
MAKKI KA SOWETA

evaporated. Now add water (approx 800ml/3!4 cups), bring toa boil,
cover and simmer, stirring occasicnally, until meat is tender. Adjust the
seasoning.

TO SERVE

Remove to a bowl, garnish with the chopped coriander and serve with
Serves: 4 Phulka*. (The Rajasthanis make a bed of Phulka, pour on the Lal
Preparation time: 30 minutes Maas, crumble a papad on top and eat when the Phulka has soaked as
Cooking time: 1:45 hours much of the gravy as possible.)

*See section on Breads.

INGREDIENTS
MAKKI KA SOWETA
750g/ 124 |b Spring Lamb
(assorted cuts) T he Rajasthanis proudly claim that no other people can match their
450g/1 lb Corn on the Cob
ability to create corn dishes. The Soweta is a spicy combination of
corn and lamb.
1S0g/%4 cup Ghee
3g/1 tsp Cumin seeds
4 Green Cardamom PREPARATION
4Cardamom
Black
8 Cloves THE LAMB: Clean and cut breast and saddle into 1'4-inch chunks. Clean
2 sticks Cinnamon (I-inch) chops.
2 Bay Leaves THE CORN: Boil, cool and grate the kernels on the cob. (If using canned
300ml/1%4
cups Milk corn, roughly chop.)
30mi/2
Tbs Lemon juice — THE PASTE: Peel, wash and roughly cut onions. Peel garlic. Remove
20g/'/s cup Coriander stems, wash, slit and deseed green chillies. Put these ingredients in a
blender and make a fine paste.
The Paste
THE MARINATION: Whisk yoghurt in a large bowl, add the paste,
160g/1 cup Onions coriander powder, red chillies, turmeric and salt, mix well. Leave the
50g/5 Tbs Garlic meat in this marinade for at least 45 minutes.
8 Green Chillies
THE CORIANDER: Clean, wash and chop.
The Marination emer

225g/-1 cup Yoghurt COOKING

10g/2 tsp Conander powder EN. ee ene ee ee ee
5g/ 1 tsp Red Chilli powder Heat ghee ina handi, add cumin seeds, the cardamom, cloves, cinnamon
3g/'4 tsp Turmeric and bay leaves, saute over medium heat until the seeds begin to
Salt crackle, Add the lamb chunks, alongwith the marinade, and bhunno
until evenly brown and the moisture has evaporated. Then add water
(approx 750ml/3 cups), bring to a boil, cover and simmer until meat is
almost cooked. Now add the grated corn and milk, cook, stirring
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 MAAS KI KADHI
a

ee, 113
constantly, for 8-10 minutes. Remove, add lemon juice and stir. Adjust
the seasoning.

TO SERVE Serves: 4
Preparation time: 1:25 hours
Remove to a shallow dish, garnish with coriander and serve as a meal. Cooking time: 1:30 hours

MAAS KI KADHI INGREDIENTS

Ikg/24% lb Leg of Spring
Ae uncommon lamb delicacy, done in a gramflour ‘n’ yoghurt gravy. Lamb
100g/'4 cup Ghee
5g/1% tsp Cumin seeds
PREPARATION
A generous pinch
Asafoetida
THE LAMB: Clean, debone and cut into 1I-inch boti.
100g/4 cup Boiled Onion
THE CUMIN: Broil half the seeds on a tawa, cool, put in a grinder and paste*
make a powder. 50g/3 Tbs Garlic paste
THE YOGHURT: Whisk yoghurt in a bowl, add gramflour, red chillies, 400g/ 134 cups Yoghurt
turmeric and salt, mix well. Add water (approx 800 ml1/3 '4.cups):and (I-day old)
whisk again. 502/ 3 cup Gramflour
THE VEGETABLES: Remove stems, wash, slit, deseed and finely chop 5g/ 1 tsp Red Chilli powder
green chillies. Clean, wash and chop coriander. 3g/'4 tsp Turmeric
Salt
COOKING 8 Green Chillies
20g/'/s cup Coriander
Heat ghee in a kadhai, add cumin seeds and asafoetida, saute over
medium heat until the seeds begin to crackle. Add the lamb chunks and
salt, bhunno until evenly light brown, add the boiled onion and garlic
pastes, bhunno for 3-4 minutes. Then add water (approx 600ml/ 24
cups), bring toa boil, cover and simmer, stirring occasionally, until meat
is almost tender. Now add the yoghurt mixture, bring to a boil, reduce to
medium heat and cook, stirring constantly, until the gravy starts getting
thick (approx 8-10 minutes). Add cumin powder and green chillies, stir
and cook for 2-3 minutes. Adjust the seasoning.

TO SERVE Serves: 4
Preparation time: 35 minutes
Remove to a bowl, garnish with coriander and serve with boiled rice. Cooking time: 2:15 hours
ooooeoeoenwwoa=eoeaeqoaoeoeo®aooqooqomomumuouueeeeeeeeeeee SSsSaoaoaS—son_nn0a—mum_mu_m=—s’
SS
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Note: Buttermilk (1.2 litres/5 cups) is better suited for Kadhi than a mixture of yoghurt
and water.
*See section on Pastes.
a a TR a a

Caner rere
 KHAD

INGREDIENTS
KHAD
800g/ 134 Ib Lamb Mince
300g/ 11 oz Potatoes
multi-tiered ‘cake’ of lamb mince and Phulka—a magnificent
meal in itself. Khad means a hole in the ground. Originally, the ‘cake’
120g/24 cup Ghee
was baked ina hole in the ground with charcoals and hot sand providing
350g/12 oz Onions
the heat. Today, electric ovens have taken over.
100g/3'4 oz Yoghurt
20g/3'4 tsp Ginger paste
PREPARATION
20g/3'4 tsp Garlic paste
20g/4 tsp Coriander powder
THE VEGETABLES: Peel, wash and dice potatoes. Peel, wash and chop
5g/ |tsp Red Chilli powder 100g/4 oz of onions; roughly cut the rest, put ina blender and make
3g/A tsp Turmeric a rough paste. Clean, wash and chop coriander. Remove stems, wash,
Salt slit, deseed and finely chop green chillies.
20g/Yscup Coriander
THE MINCE: Whisk yoghurt in a large bowl, add the mince, the onion,
4Green Chillies ginger and garlic pastes, coriander powder, red chillies, turmeric and
15ml/1 Tbs Lemon juice — salt, mix well and keep aside for 10 minutes.
12 Phulka* (Thin) THE OVEN: Pre-heat to 275°F.

COOKING

Heat ghee in a kadhai, add the chopped onions and saute over medium
heat until golden brown. Reduce to low heat, add the mince mixture and
bhunno for 5 minutes. Then add potatoes and bhunno until cooked and
the liquid has evaporated (add a little water if necessary). Remove, add
coriander and green chillies, stir. Sprinkle lemon juice and stir. Divide
into 11 equal portions.

FINISHING

Prepare the ‘cake’ as follows: Spread a portion of the cooked mince on

a Phulka. Place the second Phulka on the mince and spread another
portion of the cooked mince...and so on until all the Phulka are
stacked one on top of the other. Wrap the stack in greased silver foil,
place on a baking tray and bake in the pre-heated oven for 8-9 minutes.
Remove, turn over and bake for 8-9 minutes.
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TO SERVE
Serves: 4 Seod oe AS ee ee ee te el
Preparation time: 30 minutes Tear off the foil, cut into wedges of desired size and serve with
Cooking time: 1:05 hours Kachumbar**, Mint Chutney and lemon wedges.
SS
Note: Khad can be made in single Chappati rolls or balls. Divide the mince into 12 equal
portions and wrap in individual Chappati and then in foil.
*See section on Breads.
**See section on Salads.
555 ee
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 AMRUD KI SUBZI
115

AMRUD KI SUBZI INGREDIENTS

| kg/2% Ib Guavas
n exquisite delicacy of guavas—yes, the fruit—simmered in a tangy (semi-ripe)
tomato and yoghurt masala.
1252/24 cup Ghee
5g/134 tsp Cumin seeds _
PREPARATION A pinch Asafoetida
25g/5 tsp Coriander powder
THE GUAVAS: Peel, cut into quarters, deseed and halve. 3g/'4 tsp Red Chilli powder
5g/1 tsp Turmeric
THE TOMATOES: Wash and chop.
Salt
THE YOGHURT: Whisk in a bowl.
120g/'4 cup Tomatoes
Ser
ee eee NEEL
225g/1 cup Yoghurt
COOKING 3g/'4 tsp Garam Masala
10g/2 tsp Mango powder
Heat ghee in a handi, add cumin and saute over medium heat until it 10g/2 tsp Fennel powder
begins to crackle. Add asafoetida, stir, add coriander powder, red 75g/Y3 cup Sugar
chillies, turmeric and salt, stir. Then add tomatoes and yoghurt, bhunno 30m1/2 Tbs Lemon juice
until the fat leaves the masala, add water (approx 250ml/1 cup) and
bring toa boil. Now add guavas, bring toa boil, reduce to medium heat,
cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until tender. Sprinkle garam
masala, mango powder and fennel powder, stir, add sugar and cook for
5 minutes. Adjust the seasoning. Sprinkle lemon juice and stir.

TO SERVE Serves: 4
Preparation time: 25 minutes
Remove to a dish and serve with Poori*. Cooking time: 40 minutes

*See section on Breads.

MONGODI KI SUBZI INGREDIENTS

The Dumplings
G rape-sized dumplings of moong dal—Mongodi—napped in a
spicy masala, can also be served with, Kadhi. 240g/1% cups Moong dal
(washed)
5g/ |tsp Red Chilli powder
PREPARATION wt
Ghee to shallow fry
THE DUMPLINGS: Pick, wash in running water and soak dal for not
The Masala
more than 30 minutes. Drain, put in a blender, add red chillies and salt,
make a coarse paste. Make grape-sized dumplings with a spoon and place 60g/5 Tbs Ghee
them on a tray evenly spaced out. Dry in the sun until hard (at least 2 2g/ 1 tsp Coriander seeds
days). Mongodi has a shelf life of 6 months in an airtight container.
Yield: approx 250g/9oz. —/Continued

ca SSE TE SS BE EEE DTD EC ELIS PDC DEE EE LAE SLEEPER TEE

 BESAN KE GATTE
i ss.
D6 ee
3g/1 tsp Cumin seeds THE CORIANDER: Clean, wash and chop.
A vinch Asafoetida deen eee nen EEE EERE

02/4 tsp Conander powder

COOKING
3g/'4 tsp Red Chilli powder
3g/4 tsp
Turmeric Heat ghee in a kadhai, add the dumplings and shallow fry over medium
10g/2 tsp Mango powder heat until golden brown. Remove the dumplings and reserve the fat.
(Amchur)
Salt Reheat 60g/4 Tbs of the reserved ghee, add the coriander and cumin seeds,
saute over medium heat until they begin to crackle, add asafoetida and
The Garnish
stir. Add coriander powder, red chillies, turmeric and mango powder—
15g/'% cup Coriander all dissolved in water (approx 120ml/'4 cup)—and stir constantly until
the liquid has almost evaporated. Then add water (approx 600ml1/2'4
cups) and bring toa boil. Now add the fried Mongodiand salt, bring toa
boil, cover and simmer until sofi and coated with the gravy. Adjust the
seasoning.

Serves: 4
Preparation time: 10 minutes
TO SERVE
(Plus time taken to prepare
dumplings) Remove to a dish, garnish with coriander and serve with Poori or
Cooking time: | hour Phulka*.

Note: To make Mongodi with Kadhi, use 100g/3'4 oz of dumplings—to be fried and
added half-way through the cooking process of Kadhi (see Punjab Section). However,
to make the Marwan Kadhi use SOg/'/s cup of gramflour and black salt instead of table salt.
*See section on Breads.

INGREDIENTS BESAN KE GATTE

The Gatte (Dumplings) ne Ke Gatte or gramflour dumplings cooked in a sharp cumin-
350g/ 24 cups Gramflour and-asafoetida gravy.
Abi-carb
pinch Soda
5g/ 1% tsp Cumin seeds
PREPARATION
3g/%4 tsp Red Chilli powder
Sal
eee oe THE GATTE: Scrape, wash and finely chop ginger. Clean, wash and chop
15g/4 tsp Ginger
mint. Whisk yoghurt in a bowl, add the remaining ingredients and warm
5g/1 Tbs Mint water (approx 180ml/% cup) to make a hard but pliable dough. Divide
60g/%
Yoghurt
cup into 8 equal portions, make balls and roll into cylinders ('4-inch
30g/7!4 tsp Ghee diameter).
Ghee to deep fry
Heat water (approx | .5litres/6'4 cups) in a handi, add the cylinders and
boil for 20 minutes. Remove the cylinders and reserve the liquid. Coo]
PSS
 MOONG DAL KHILMA
117
the cylinders and cut into 4-inch pieces. Heat oilin a kadhai and deep The Gravy
fry gatte over medium heat until golden brown. 100g/'4 cup Ghee
THE GRAVY: Whisk yoghurt in a bowl, add coriander powder, red 3g/ 1 tsp Cumin seeds
chillies, turmeric and salt. Keep aside for 10 minutes. Clean, wash and 6Clovs
chop mint. Remove stems, wash, slit, deseed and chop green chillies. 2 sticks Cinnamon (1-inch)
THE GARNISH: Clean, wash and chop coriander. Scrape, wash and cut 2 Bay Leaves
ginger into juliennes. A. generous pinch
Asafoetida
220g/1 cup Yoghurt
COOKING
20g/4 tsp Corigndet powder
3g/ 14 tsp Red Chilli powder
Heat ghee in a handi, add cumin seeds, cloves, cinnamon and bayleaves,
saute over medium heat until the seeds begin to crackle. Add asafoetida, 3g/% tsp Turmeric
stir for a few seconds, reduce to low heat, add the yoghurt mixture and Salt
stir, without increasing the heat, until it starts boiling. Then add 5g/1 Tbs Mint
500ml1/2 cups of the reserved liquid, bring to a boil, cover and simmer 4 Green Chillies
for 5 minutes. Now add the dumplings, bring to a boil and then simmer 3g/4 tsp Garam Masala
for 10 minutes, add mint and green chillies, stir. Sprinkle garam masala
and stir. Adjust the seasoning. The Garnish

15g/% cup Coriander

TO SERVE 15g/4 tsp Ginger

Serves: 4
Remove to a bowl, garnish with coriander and ginger and serve with Preparation time: | hour
Phulka* or boiled rice. Cooking time: 30 minutes

*See section on Breads.

MOONG DAL KHILMA INGREDIENTS

300g/ 144 cups Green
Aas preparation of pulses, tossed in a tempered mixture of spices. Moong dal
10g/1 Tbs Ginger
10g/2 Tbs Coriander
PREPARATION
The Tempering
THE LENTIL: Pick and wash in running water. 75g/6’Tbs Ghee
THE VEGETABLES: Scrape and wash ginger. Clean, wash and chop 3g/ 1 tsp Cumin seeds
coriander. A pinch Asafoetida
3g/14 tsp Red Chilli powder
3g/14 tsp Turmeric
COOKING
LAG 2 Sl Salt vs
3g/%4 tsp Garam Masala
Put daland ginger in a handi, add water (approx 750ml/ 3 cups), bring to 15ml/1 Tbs Lemon juice
a boil, cover and simmer until almost cooked. Ensure that the lentil is
not mashed, it should be just soft. Drain and discard ginger. — Continued
 MOONG DAL KHILMA
118
To prepare the tempering, heat ghee in a kadhai, add cumin and saute
over medium heat until it begins to crackle. Add asafoetida, stir, add red
chillies, turmeric and salt, stir. Then add the cooked dal and toss (or stir
carefully) for 5 minutes, ensuring that the lentil does not get mashed.
Sprinkle garam masala and lemon juice, toss. Adjust the seasoning.

TO SERVE
Serves: 4
Preparation
time: 20minutes © Remove to a shallow dish, garnish with coriander and serve as an
Cooking time: 1:35 hours accompaniment.
 SOC TH INDia
With J. Ramesh Babu & Syed Nasir

efore I am ‘arraigned’, I plead ‘guilty’ to the ‘charge’ of being unfair. Unfair because I
have clubbed the cuisines of our Southern states—including Hyderabad—in one chapter. My
only ‘excuse’ is that the rich variety of foods from the South should be covered in a
separate book—a project I propose to undertake. There are many superb culinary styles—
Malabari, Tulu, Coorg, Syrian Christian, Cochin Jewish—which I have hadto leave out. Many of
the recipes penned are common—with minor differences, of course—to every genre of Southern
cooking. In any event, this chapter is only a‘palate-teaser’—a hint of things to come.
There are some inexcusable—and unforgivable—misconceptions about the food of the South.
While the West only knew of ‘curry’, the ubiquitous Madras Soup and Mulligatawny, what was
even worse was that most Indians themselves were unaware that the region’s cuisine was much
more than Dosai, Idli, Bonda, Vadai, Sambhar and Rasam, which are all breakfast foods, snacks
and/or accompaniments. Without taking anything away from these delights, it must be said that
each state has a cuisine as rich and varied as that of the other states in the country.
Just as inaccurate is the belief that Southern food is ‘strictly’ vegetarian. While it is true that the
South remained largely untouched by the Muslim invasions and has remained, more or less,

J. RamesH Basu: Botanist (a B.Sc. from ‘Madras

University), sportsman (badminton and soccer star at
school and college) and amateur pilot (possibly the only
Indian chef with a pilot’s license), Ramesh Babu is the
Chef of the Welcomgroup Maurya Sheraton. Besides
Southern, he specialises in French and Italian cooking.
SOUTH INDIA

SyeD NaseEeER: At 12, he dropped out of school—despite

parental disapproval and “innumerable thrashings”—and
apprenticed with Hyderabad’s redoubtable Ustad Noor
a Khan. He was such a great success that as soon as he
4%, eee ‘, “graduated”, the Oberoi’s snapped him up and made him
— bh Chef of the Mughal Room at the Oberoi Towers, Bombay.
He is still only 26.
eas

vegetarian, it is just as true that the vamety of non-vegetarian—especially seafood—delicacies is

unmatched. A noteworthy feature of the region’s non-vegetarian food is the manner of
slaughtering animals—they are drowned before being put under the knife.
The bewildering array of meat dishes notwithstanding, rice and dal remain the heart and soul ofa
Southern vegetarian meal. The grain is consumed in some form or the other at breakfast, lunch,
dinner and everything in between. Lentils are the major source of protein. The consumption of
wheat and breads though not altogether unknown is quite limited. The most popular form of bread
is Poori, whichis usually served with sweets on festive occasions like Pongal. With their undoubted
imagination and ingenuity, Southern chefs have produced a plethora of vegetarian delights to
supplement their various rice and dal dishes.
Other notable features of Southern cooking are the liberal use of coconut, kari (curry) leaves.
fenugreek seeds, tamarind and asafoetida. Contrary to popular belief, the food of the South is not
‘chilli-hot’. The notable exceptions are the cuisines of Andhra (terribly ‘hot’) and Kerala
(tolerably ‘hot’).
Incidentally, ‘curry’ is an oversimplified form of the Tamil word, kari,which means sauce. The
word ‘curry’ does not even exist in any Indian culinary dictionary. However, thanks to the Raj
legacy—and much to the disgust of all Indians—the word became synonymous with our cuisine.
The insipid, colourless and tasteless stew a handful of khansamah prepared to pander to the
Sahibs’ taste became India’s culinary shame. The confusion was worse confounded when the
Sahibs themselves started cooking the stuff using, what else?, ‘curry powder’, which again is non-
existent in the list of Indian condiments. Fortunately, the world is learning to distinguish between
the different styles of Indian cooking and between different gravies—not ‘curries’.
A traditional Southern feast is eaten sitting cross-legged on the floor and out of banana leaves. The
food is served in copious quantities from stainless steel pails and each delicacy is topped with a
spoonful of desi ghee (clarified butter). The ghee is prepared by simmering butter over very low
heat. When the butter starts frothing, a small piece of turmeric root and some turmeric leaves
are added. The butter is simmered until clarified, removed from the heat, cooled to room
temperature and then carefully decanted. Yoghurt is eaten at the end of every meal—to sooth the
innards after the spices.

Assisted by Ponnapatti Papaiah

 IGGARU ROYYA
121]

IGGARU ROYYA INGREDIENTS

Ikg/2'4 lb Prawns
home-style sea-food delicacy, spiced with cumin, fenugreek and _—(medium size) “
pepper. 125ml/'4 cup Groundnut Oil
200g/ 1% cups Onions a
20g/ 34 tsp Garlic paste
PREPARATION 10g/ 134 tsp Ginger paste
Be : 400g/1% cups Tomatoes
THE PRAWNS: Shell, devein, wash and pat dry. eens
THE VEGETABLES: Peel, wash and chop onions. Wash and chop 75g/1
Coconut
cup
tomatoes. Wash curry leaves. Clean, wash and chop coriander. 10 Curry Leaves
THE COCONUT PASTE: Remove the brown skin and grate coconut, putin 59/134 tsp Cumin seeds
a blender, add 60m1/'%4 cup of coconut water and make a fine paste. 2g/¥4tsp Fenugreek seeds
THE SPICES: Pound cumin seeds, fenugreek seeds and peppercorns with —_!0g/1 Tbs Black Peppercorns
a pestle. 20g/3 cup Coriander

COOKING

Heat oil in a kadhai, add onions and saute over medium heat until
light brown. Add the garlic and ginger pastes, stir until the liquid has
evaporated. Then add tomatoes and salt, bhunno until semi-mashed,
reduce to low heat, add coconut paste and curry leaves, stir for 2
minutes. Now add prawns, stir, add the pounded spices, stir, increase to
medium heat and bhunno until prawns are cooked. Adjust the
seasoning.

TO SERVE Serves: 4
; Preparation time: | hour
Remove to a flat dish, garnish with coriander and serve with boiled rice. _ Cooking time: 15 minutes

ERHA KARI INGREDIENTS

Ikg/2Y% lb Prawns
A coconut-flavoured prawn curry redolent with coriander—the (medium size)
powder as well as the herb. 100ml/7 Tbs GroundnutOil
200g/ 1% cups Onions
20g/3'4 tsp Garlic paste ©
PREPARATION 10g/1% t$p Ginger paste
: 10g/2 tsp Coriander powder
THE PRAWNS: Shell, devein, wash and pat dry. —
THE VEGETABLES: Peel, wash and chop onions. Wash and chop —Continued'
 KERALA NANDU MASALA
[22
10g/2 tsp Red Chilli powder tomatoes. Wash curry leaves. Clean, wash and chop coriander.
3g/4
Turmeric
tsp THE COCONUT PASTE: Remove the brown skin and grate coconut, put in
Salt a blender, add 60ml/'4 cup of coconut water and make a fine paste.
300g/ 1/4 cups Tomatoes
75g/1
Coconut
cup
10 Curry Leaves COOKING
20g/scup Coriander
Heat oil in a handi, add onions and saute over medium heat until
transparent. Add the garlic and ginger pastes, stir until the liquid has
evaporated, add coriander powder, red chillies, turmeric and salt, stir.
Then add tomatoes and bhunno until mashed. Reduce to low heat, add
coconut paste and curry leaves, stir for 2 minutes. Now add prawns and
water (approx 400ml/ 1*4 cups), bring to a boil, reduce to low heat and
simmer, stirring occasionally, until cooked. Adjust the seasoning.

Serves: 4 TO SERVE
Preparation time: | hour
Cooking time: 15 minutes Transfer to a bowl, garnish with coriander and serve with boiled rice.

INGREDIENTS
KERALA NANDU MASALA
8 Crab (medium size)
100ml/7 Tbs Groundnut Oil Ai ree crab curry. Extracting the meat from the shell
22/\4
Mustard
tsp seeds _ is an easily acquired art and that is half the fun of eating this mild
2 Chillies
Whole Red delicacy.
120g/7:
cup Onions
50g/3 Tbs Ginger paste _
50g/3 Tbs Garlic paste
PREPARATION
3g/4 tsp Red Chilli powder
THE CRAB: Rinse in running water, remove and retain claws, cut each
3g/%4 tsp Turmeric
into 2 pieces.
‘Salt
THE VEGETABLES: Peel, wash and chop onions. Wash and chon
400g/1% cups Tomatoes
tomatoes. Clean and wash curry leaves. Clean,‘ wash and chop
75g/1
Coconut
cup coriander.
2Green Chillies
THE COCONUT PASTE: Remove the brown skin and grate coconut.
10 Curry Leaves
Remove stems, wash, slit, deseed and chop green chillies. Put both
20g//scup Coriander ingredients ina blender, add 75ml/4 cup of coconut water and makea
fine paste.
ipl stars n rtd ahpitting kien en, SOOO Sap ee,
COOKING
navn ee wen ONT ere ee Se! RECN
See ee
Heat oil in a handi, add mustard seeds, saute over medium heat until
ESOS TL TS I TST EO ISLES TTT TT nnn nnn aS
 POMFRET MAPPAS
Sa a rE EPS SS PN ST SS SSS EIS SS ASSES ASS iS a AT TSE
123
they begin to crackle, add whole red chillies and stir for 5 seconds. Add
onions, saute until light golden, add the ginger and garlic pastes, stir
until the liquid has evaporated. Then add red chilli powder, turmeric
and salt, stir for 30 seconds, add tomatoes and bhunno, until the fat
leaves the masala. Now add the paste, reduce to low heat, stir for 2
minutes, add crab, curry leaves and water (approx 300ml/1'4 cups),
bring to a boil, cover and simmer, stirring occasionally, for 20 minutes.
Adjust the seasoning.

TO SERVE
‘ : ‘ Serves: 4
Remove to a bowl, garnish with coriander and serve with boiled rice and —_ Preparation time: 30 minutes
lemon wedges. Cooking time: 40 minutes

POMFRET MAPPAS INGREDIENTS

12 Fillet of Fish
illet of pomfret (or sole or halibut), marinated in tamarind and _75g/! cup Tamarind pulp*
then simmered in a delicately spiced gravy. Salt
150ml/2/4 cup Coconut Oil
PREPARATION | 4g/1 tsp Mustard seeds
75g/% cup Onions
20g/2 Tbs Ginger
THE FISH: Wash, pat dry and cut fillets into halves.
30g/3 Tbs Garlic
THE MARINATION: Dissolve tamarind pulp in 100m1/7 Tbs of water for 3g/'4 tsp Turmeric
10 minutes, add salt and leave the fish in this marinade for 15 minutes.
10 Curry Leaves
THE VEGETABLES: Peel, wash and chop onions. Scrape, washand chop 4 Green Chillies :
ginger. Peel and chop garlic. Wash curry leaves. Remove stems, wash, 5g/ | tsp Coriander powder
slit, deseed and chop green chillies. 5g/1 tsp Fennel powder
lg/% tsp Clove powder
COOKING 2g/'4 tsp Cinnamon powder
100ml/'4 cup Coconut Milk
(First extract)**
Heat oil ina handi, add mustard seeds, stir over medium heat until they
100m1/!4 cup Coconut Milk
begin to crackle, add onions and saute until light brown. Add ginger and
(Second extract)**
garlic, stir for 2-3 minutes, add turmeric and salt, stir for 30 seconds.
Then add curry leaves and green chillies, stir for a minute, add coriander, 10m1/2 tsp Malt Vinegar
fennel, clove and cinnamon powders, stir for a minute, add the second
extract of coconut milk and simmer for 5 minutes. Now add the fish, —Continued —
bring to a boil, add vinegar and the first extract of coconut milk, bring to
a boil, cover and simmer until fish is cooked. Adjust the seasoning.
|SRS ESSE ASST TS TNE SEE ETE LOS EL TEE IISEET CLEATFOE DOLLY ELS IEE EE EDIE LLANE TELE ADELE EDSED NEILL ADE EELS R EELS LI ADEE IEEE EDD LLC
 KOZHI VARTHA KARI
124
STEWS SEER SER ew a SE SRP RSS SEE OTA BS SES EAT ETS ISEVES EEE II ENE LEED EDO I OTT TEDSTER IELPTEER ERE IEEE LIEGE ENTE,

Serves: 4 TO SERVE
Preparation time: 30 minutes
Cooking time: 30 minutes Remove to a bowl and serve with boiled rice.

*See section on Tamarind.

**#See section on Coconuts.

INGREDIENTS
KOZHI VARTHA KARI
1.2kg/2 74 lb Chicken
45g/7'% tsp Ginger paste afiaane boneless chicken cubes cooked in a palate-tickling combination
of herbs and spices.
30g/5 tsp Garlic paste
3g/ 4 tsp Red Chilli powder
pg/ t tsp Turmeric PREPARATION
Salt
120ml/'4 cup Groundnut Oil THE CHICKEN: Clean, remove the skin, debone and cut into 14-inch
‘10 Curry Leaves tikka;
150g/1 cup; Onions
THE MARINATION: Mix red chillies, turmeric and salt with-half each of
100g/'4 cup Tomatoes the ginger and garlic pastes and rub this mixture on the tikka. Keep aside
3g/ 14 tsp Coriander powder for 30 minutes.
2g//1 tsp Green Cardamom THE SAUTEEING: Heat oil in a kadhai, add the marinated chicken and
powder
saute over medium heat until evenly light brown. Remove the tikka and
2g/'/ tsp Clove and reserve the oil.
Cinnamon powder
25/4 tsp Tamarind pulp*
THE VEGETABLES: Wash curry leaves. Peel, wash and slice onions. Wash
and chop tomatoes. Clean, wash and chop coriander.
3g/1 tsp Black Peppercorns
15ml/ 1 Tbs Lemon juice THE TAMARIND: Dissolve in 25ml/5 tsp of water.
20g/ 3 cup Coriander THE PEPPER: Pound with a pestle.

COOKING

Reheat the reserved oil, add curry leaves, stir over medium heat for 30
seconds, add onions and saute until light brown. Add the remaining
ginger and garlic pastes, stir for a minute, add tomatoes and bhunno
until the fat leaves the masala. Then add coriander, cardamom and clove
and cinnamon powders, stir for a minute, add tamarind and cook for 5
minutes. Now add the sauteed chicken, bhunno for 8-10 minutes, add
water (approx 240ml/ | cup) and bring to a boil. Reduce to medium heat
and bhunno, stirring constantly, until the moisture has evaporated and
the masala coats the tikka. Sprinkle pepper and lemon juice, stir. Adjust
the seasoning.
 MILAGU KOZHI CHETTINAD
125

TO SERVE

Remove to a dish, garnish with coriander and serve with Dosai**, Serves: 4
Paratha or Poori***. It can also be served as a cocktail snack— Preparation time: | hour
skewered on toothpicks. Cooking time: 30 minutes

*See section on Tamarind.

**See section on Snacks.
***See section on Breads.

MILAGU KOZHI CHETTINAD INGREDIENTS

1.2kg/ 22/4 Ib Chicken (2 birds)
he authentic recipe for a ‘devilled’ chicken curry—done to 25g/'/4 cup Coriander
perfection in a black pepper sauce. Remember, it was South India
which ‘exported’ black pepper to the world. The Marination

20g/2 Tbs Black Peppercorns

PREPARATION 1258/4 cup Yoghurt

THE CHICKEN: Clean, remove the skin and cut each into 8 pieces:
25g/4 tsp Ginger paste
25g/4 tsp Garlic paste
THE CORIANDER: Clean, wash and chop. 30ml/2 Tbs Lemon juice
‘THE MARINATION: Pound peppercorns with a pestle. Whisk yoghurt Salt
in a large bowl, add the pounded pepper, the ginger and garlic-
pastes, lemon juice and salt, mix well. Leave the chicken pieces in this The Gravy
marinade for at least 30 minutes.
100m1/7 Tbs Groundnut Oil
THE GRAVY: Peel, wash and chop onions. Wash and chop tomatoes. 175g/l
cup Onions
25/4 tsp Ginger paste
COOKING 25g/4 tsp Garlic paste
150g/?4 cup Tomatoes

Heat oil in a handi, add onions and saute over medium heat until light Salt —
golden. Add the ginger and garlic pastes, saute until onions are golden 5g/1 tsp Garam Masala _
brown. Then add tomatoes and bhunno until the fat leaves the masala.
Now add chicken, alongwith the marinade, stir for 4-5 minutes, add
water (approx 250mi/ 1 cup) bring to a boil, cover and simmer, stirring
occasionally, until chicken is tender. Adjust the seasoning. Sprinkle
garam masala and stir.
e
oe a e ee eee ee ee

TO SERVE
ae ees As eS ee ee ee ee
Serves: 4
Remove to a shallow dish, garnish with coriander and serve with boiled Preparation time: 45 minutes
rice or Paratha*. Cooking time: 25 minutes
a rt A EP A eT
ee ener ane ee TOOT eA TA

*See section on Breads.

pc cr ree ee ——————_—_—=
deere rere eer rrr rare ere ce
 VENDAKKA MASALA PACHCHADI
126

INGREDIENTS VENDAKKA MASALA PACHCHADI

800g/ 134 Ib Okra
Groundnut Oil to deep fry Oe: simmered in a thick, coconut-flavoured, yoghurt-based gravy.
3g/ 1 tsp Cumin seeds
4g/1
Mustard'seeds
tsp
PREPARATION
20g/2 Tbs Urad dal
3 Whole Red’ Chillies
THE OKRA: Slice off the ends (without exposing the tubes), wash, pat dry
10 Curry Leaves”
and cut into I-inch pieces. Heat oil in a kadhai and deep fry over
125g/%4 cup‘Onions medium heat until crisp (approx 5-6 minutes). Drain and reserve the oil.
250g/
Tomatoes
cup
THE REMAINING VEGETABLES: Wash curry leaves. Peel, wash and chop
5g/|tsp Red Chilli powder
onions. Wash and chop tomatoes.
THE LENTIL: Pick, wash in running water and pat dry.
15g/1 Tbs Coriander powder
Salt THE COCONUT PASTE: Remove the brown skin and grate coconut. Split
75g/1
Coconut
cup cashewnuts. Put both in a blender, add 60ml/'4 cup of coconut water
{5g/2
Cashewnuts
Tbs and make a fine paste.
100g/'4 cup Yoghurt THE YOGHURT: Whisk in a bowl.

COOKING

Heat 75ml of the reserved oil in a handi, add cumin and mustard seeds,
urad dal, whole red chillies and curry leaves, saute over medium heat until
the seeds begin to crackle. Add onions and saute until golden brown.
Then add tomatoes, stir, add red chilli powder, turmeric, coriander and
salt, bhunno until the fat leaves the masala. Reduce to low heat. add the
coconut paste and bhunno for 2 minutes. Remove the handi, add
yoghurt, stir, add water (approx 400ml/ 124 cups), return to heat and
bring to a boil. Now add the deep fried okra and simmer until napped in
the gravy. Adjust the seasoning.

Serves: 4
TO SERVE
Preparation time: 30 minutes
Cooking time: 30 minutes Remove to a shallow dish and serve with boiled rice.

INGREDIENTS
BATAANI KAAL KARI
750g) 1*/4 lb Green Peas
750g/ 12. lb Mushroom (fresh) delicious combination of peas and mushrooms in a thick, rich
150ml/?/; cup Groundnut Oil gravy.
SS
MURUNGAKKAI SAMBHAR
si sess
nee LST
a
6g/2 tsp Cumin seeds
PREPARATION 4/1 tsp Mustard seeds
Ethel UNM Goatees Sk A? Gn le ot otttin nee 1g/% tsp Fenugreek seeds
THE PEAS: Boil and drain. 20g/2 Tbs Urad dal
THE MUSHROOM: Slice off the earthy base of the stalk, washand cut into —!25g/% cup Onions
quarters. Heat 50m1/3 Tbs of oilin a kadhaiand saute over mediumheat —_25g/4 tsp Ginger paste
for 4-5 minutes. 25g/4 tsp Garlic paste
THE LENTIL: Pick, wash in running water and pat dry. 10g/2 tsp Coriander powder
THE REMAINING VEGETABLES: Clean, washand chop onions. Washand _ 58/ | tsp Red Chilli powder
chop tomatoes. Wash curry leaves. Clean, wash and chop coriander. _5g/! tsp Turmeric
THE COCONUT PASTE: Remove the brown skin and grate coconut. Split Saltire: gatioe ge’ |gl
cashewnuts. Put both in a blender, add 60m1/'4 cup of coconut water —250g/! cup Tomatoes
and make a fine paste. 60g/ 34 cup Coconut
————— ee 30g/% cup Cashewnuts
COOKING 20 Curry Leaves
20g/ Ys cup Coriander
Heat oil in a kadhai, add cumin seeds, mustard seeds, fenugreek seeds
and urad dal, saute over medium heat until the seeds begin to crackle.
Add onions, saute until light brown, add the ginger and garlic pastes and
stir until the liquid has evaporated. Then add coriander powder, red
chillies, turmeric and salt, stir, add tomatoes and bhunno until the fat
leaves the masala. Reduce to low heat, add the coconut paste and curry
leaves, stir for a minute, add water (approx 500m1/2 cups) and bring toa
boil. Now add the boiled peas and sauteed mushroom, simmer for 5
minutes. Adjust the seasoning.

TO SERVE Serves: 4
ee ee «Preparation time: | liour:
Remove to a bowl, garnish with coriander and serve with boiled rice. | Cooking time: 30 minutes

MURUNGAKKAT SAMBHAR. TPL OLIN

200g/1 cup Toor dal
must with every meal—breakfast, lunch and dinner—this lentil
200g/7
oz Drumstick
delicacy is flavoured with asafoetida. Sambhar can be made with
5g/ 1 tsp Turmeric
okra, aubergines, radish, squash, pumpkin or any other vegetables
5g/ 1 tsp Red Chilli powder
except the ‘starchies’. The most popular vegetable, however, is
drumstick (below). 4Green Chillies
175g/ 1 cup Onions
—————__ 300/13
cups Tomatoes —
PREPARATION <i weed rad
5ml/1 tsp Groundnut Oil
THE LENTIL: Pick, wash in running water and soak toor dal for 30
minutes. Drain. —Continued
 RASAM : ama
128
1Sg/2'4 tsp Tamarind pulp* THE DRUMSTICK: Peel, wash and cut into 1I-inch pieces.
10g/1 Tbs Jaggery THE REMAINING VEGETABLES: Remove stems, wash, slit ard deseed
75g/5 Tbs Coconut paste green chillies. Peel, wash and slice onions. Wash and cut tomatoes into
20g/3 cup Coriander quarters. Clean, wash and chop coriander.
THE TAMARIND: Dissolve in 30m1/2 Tbs of water.
The Tempering
THE JAGGERY: Pound and soak in 30ml/2 Tbs of coconut water.
30m1/2 Tbs Groundnut Oil
THE TEMPERING: Pick, wash urad dal in running water and pat dry.
4g/1
Mustard
tsp seeds Wash curry leaves.
6g/2 tsp Cumin seeds
2g/1
Coriander
tsp seeds —
3g/ 1 tsp Sesame seeds COOKING
10g/1 Tbs Urad dal
15 Curry Leaves Put the drained lentil in a handi, add water (approx | litre/4 cups),
A generous pinch drumstick, turmeric, red chillies, green chillies, onions, tomatoes, and
Asafoetida salt, boil until the dal is cooked. Stir in oil. Remove.
To prepare the tempering, heat oil in a large kadhai, add mustard seeds,
cumin seeds, coriander seeds, sesame seeds and urad dal, saute over
medium heat until the seeds begin to crackle. Add curry leaves, stir, add
asafoetida and stir. Transfer the cooked da/ and tamarind, simmer for 5
minutes, add jaggery and bring to a boil. Reduce to low heat, add
coconut paste and simmer for 5 minutes. Sprinkle chopped coriander
and stir. Adjust the seasoning.

Serves: 4
TO SERVE
Preparation time: 55 minutes
Cooking time: 45 minutes Remove to a bowl and serve as an accompaniment.

*See section on Tamarind.

INGREDIENTS
RASAM
3502/14 cups Tomatoes
75/7 Tbs Toor dal yPaden literally, ‘juice’ or ‘extract’, is an appetizer-cum-digestive-
cum-accompaniment. Its versatility apart, it comes in several
| Green Chilli
flavours—the more popular ones being tomato and lemon (below).
A pinch Turmeric
Salt
15ml/1 Tbs Groundnut Oil PREPARATION
4g/1
Mustard
tsp seeds _
6g/2 tsp Cumin seeds THE TOMATOES: Wash, roughly cut, put ina blender and make a puree.
3Chillies
Whole Red THE LENTIL PUREE: Pick and wash dal in running water. Remove stem,
10 Curry Leaves wash, slit and deseed green chilli. Put both in a handi, add turmeric, salt
A pinch Asafoetida and water (approx 800m1/3'4 cups), bring toa boil, cover and simmer
until da/ is mashed. Force the cooked da/ through a soup strainer or a
30g/3 Tbs Garlic
food mill into a separate handi. °\
 BIST BHELA HULIYANA
EEE

THE REMAINING VEGETABLES: Wash curry leaves. Peel and crush 5g/ 14 tsp Black Peppercorns
garlic. Clean, wash and chop coriander. 100g/5 Tbs Tamannd pulp*
THE PEPPER: Pound with a pestle. 2Ug/ 3 cup Coriander
THE TAMARIND: Dissolve in 100m1/7 Tbs of water.
re

COOKING

Heat oil in a kadhai, add mustard seeds and cumin seeds, saute over
medium heat until they begin to crackle. Add whole red chillies and
curry leaves, stir for a few seconds. Then add asafoetida, the crushed
garlic and salt, stir. Now add tomato puree, pepper and water (approx
750ml/3 cups), bring to a boil. Transfer the lentil puree and tamarind,
bring to a boil again and strain. Adjust the seasoning.

TO SERVE Yield: | litre

Preparation time: !:20 hours
Remove to a bowl and garnish with coriander. Cooking time: 10 minutes

Note: For Lemon Rasam, use 100ml1/7 Tbs of lemon juice instead of the tamarind pulp
and garnish with ginger juliennes (10g/1 Tbs) besides coriander.

*See section on Tamarind.

BISI BHELA HULIYANA INGREDIENTS

300g/1'4 cups Basmati Rice
fs\eiea ‘n’ Sambhar delicacy cooked with a special Huliyana Masala, 150g/% cup Toor dal
garnished with cashewnuts. 50g//3 cup Green Peas _
50g/%4
Cauliflower
cup _
400g/ 134 cups Tomatoes _
PREPARATION
50g/3
Tamarind
Tbs pulp*
3g/'4
Asafoetida
tsp
THE RICE AND LENTIL: Pick, wash in running water and soak for 30
3g/'4 tsp Red Chilli powder
minutes. Drain.
Sg/l
Turmeric
tsp
THE VEGETABLES: Wash and cut cauliflower into small florets. Wash
Salt
and finely chop tomatoes. Wash curry leaves.
10 Curry Leaves
THE TAMARIND: Dissolve in 50ml1/3 Tbs of water.
THE HULIYANA MASALA: Pick lentils, wash in running water, drain, pat
dry and broil each, separately, on a tawa until light tiown. Broil each of —Continued

the remaining ingredients separately on a tawa for 30 seconds. Put all

these broiled ingredients in a blender and make a coarse powder.
i ——————— — i lll LS TT TTT
nnemmenmmememeeeaemecemmemaacacecemmcaccacaaaaaaasasaaacasaacaaaaaammmmmamammaasaa
Ce
HYDERABADI MURGH KOR:MA
a ED REISE OIG NE ae I a 2 ea BRE AL ee A ee ee eee

The Huliyana Masala THE GARNISH: Heat oil in a kadhai and deep fry the cashewnuts over
50g/% cup Channa dal medium heat until golden brown.
20g/2 Tbs Urad dal SS
SE I A A A ET

5 Green Cardamom
COOKING
5 Cloves
.2 sticks Cinnamon (1-inch)
Put the drained toor dal in a handi, add water (approx 2.5 litres/
4g/ 1 tsp Fenugreek seeds
10 cups), bring to a boil, cover and simmer until almost cooked. Add the
3g/1 tsp Cumin seeds
drained rice, peas and cauliflower, boil for 10 minutes, stirring
occasionally (to ensure that the rice grains do not stick to the bottom).
The Tempering
Then add tomatoes, tamarind, asafoetida, stir, add red chillies, turmeric
75ml/'/3 cup Groundnut Oil
and salt, stir. Now add the Huliyana Masala, cover and simmer until rice
2g/4
Mustard
tsp seeds — and lentil are mashed and achieve a porridge consistency. Sprinkle curry
3Chillies
Whole Red leaves and continue to simmer.

The Garnish Meanwhile, to prepare the tempering, heat oil in a frying pan, add
50g/Y/3 cup Cashewnuts mustard seeds and saute over medium heat until they begin to crackle.
Groundnut Oil to deep fry
Add whole red chillies and stir for 15 seconds. Bring the simmering rice
to a boil, pour on the tempering and mix. Adjust the seasoning.
rae

TO SERVE
Serves: 4
Preparation time: 40 minutes Remove to a bowl, garnish with cashewnuts and serve with papad and
Cooking time: 40 minutes mango pickle.
*See section on Tamarind.

Hyderabad
INGREDIENTS
HYDERABADI MURGH KORMA
800g/ 134 Ib Chicken (1 bird)
225g/1 cup Yoghurt 1 ROE © chicken curry, flavoured with nutmeg.
60g/'%4 cup Ginger paste
30g/ 5 tsp Garlic paste PREPARATION
160g/1 cup Onions
5g/ |tsp Red Chilli powder THE CHICKEN: Clean, remove the skin and cut into 8 pieces.
3g/4 tsp Turmeric
THE YOGHURT: Whisk in a large bowl.
25g/ 3 cup Coconut
THE VEGETABLES: Peel, wash and slice onions. Peel, wash, cut potatoes
75g/4 Tbs Cashewnut paste
into quarters and immerse in water. Clean, wash and chop coriander.
10g/4 Tbs Sesame seeds —
THE COCONUT: Remove the brown skin and grate.
eee
 MURGH NIZAMI
131
_ THE MARINATION: Mix ginger paste, garlic paste, onions, red chillies, — 2g/ 4 tsp Nutmeg powder
turmeric, coconut, cashewnut paste, sesame seeds, nutmegand salt with = Sait
yoghurt and leave the chicken in this marinade for at least 30 minutes. 120/24 cup Ghee
Whole Garam Masala
10 Green Cardamom
COOKING 2 Black Cardamom
10 Cloves
Heat ghee in a handi, add whole garam masala and saute over medium 2 sticks Cinnamon (1-inch)
heat until it begins to crackle. Add the chicken, alongwith the marinade, ! Bay Leaf
bring to a boil and simmer for 5 minutes. Add water (approx 400ml/ 12/4 Ig/'/ tsp Mace
cups) and boil for 2-3 minutes. Add potatoes (drained) and lemon, —_25)g/12/ cups Potatoes
juice, simmer until chicken is tenderand potatoes are cooked. Adjustthe — (medium size)
seasoning. 30m1/2
Tbs Lemon juice —
208/13 cup Coriander

TO SERVE
4 , ; : : : Serves: 4
Remove to a dish, garnish with coriander and serve with rice or an __ Preparation time:
40 minutes
Indian bread of your choice. Cooking time: 20 minutes

MURGH NIZAMI INGREDIENTS

800g/ 134 Ib Chicken (1 bird)
A semi-dry chicken ‘masala’ cooked with nuts (cashewnuts, peanuts
and coconut) and seeds (sunflower and sesame).
120g/4
cup Ghee
100g/2;cup Onions
50g/ 3 Tbs Ginger paste
PREPARATION 50g/ 3 Tbs Garlic paste
8 Green Chillies
THE CHICKEN: Clean, remove the skin and cut into 8 pieces. 5g/1 tsp Turmeric
THE VEGETABLES: Peel, wash and chop onions. Remove stems, wash, 30g/'% cup Peanuts
slit, deseed and chop green chillies. Clean, wash and chop coriander and 10g/ 1 Tbs Sesame seeds
mint. 10g/ 1 Tbs Sunflower seeds

THE NUTS AND SEEDS: Pound peanuts, sesame seeds and sunflower 28/4 cup Coconut
seeds with a pestle. Remove the brown skin and grate coconut. Heatoilin 1508/7 cup Yoghurt
a kadhai and deep fry cashewnuts until golden brown. Salt
THE YOGHURT: Whisk in a bowl.
10g/2 tsp Garam Masala
30ml/2 Tbs Lemon juice —
20g/'/scup Coriander
COOKING 20g/ 3 cup Mint

Heat ghee in a handi, add onions and saute over medium heat until —Continued
golden brown. Add the ginger and garlic pastes, stir for a minute, add |
green chillies and turmeric, stir. Then add the pounded nuts and seeds,
 MURGH DO-PIAZA HYDERABADI
NSAI EDEL SALLE PEE EI OIEPELE SD IEE LEI OE SIGE LES LE LSD ELLE LEAL VEEL ELS,
132
50g/ 3 cup Cashewnuts and grated coconut, stir for a minute, add yoghurt and bhunno until the
Groundnut Oil to deep fry fat leaves the masala. Now add chicken, stir, add water (approx 400ml/ 124
cups), bring to a boil, simmer until tender. Adjust the seasoning.
Sprinkle garam masala, lemon juice, coriander, mint and cashewnuts,
stir.

Serves: 4
TO SERVE
Preparation time: 45 minutes
Cooking time: 25 minutes Remove to a dish and serve with an Indian bread of‘your choice.

INGREDIENTS MURGH DO-PIAZA HYDERABADI

800g/ 134 Ib Chicken (1 bird)
mild chicken curry cooked with an abundance of onions and
150g/34 cup Ghee
garnished with cashewnuts and sunflower seeds.
400g/2'3 cups Onions
30g/5 tsp Ginget pasie
30g/5 tsp Garlic paste PREPARATION
5g/ 1 tsp Red Chilli powder
Sg/1 tsp Turmeric THE CHICKEN: Clean, remove the skin and cut into 8 pieces.
Salt THE VEGETABLES: Peel, wash and chop onions, Clean, wash and chop
10g/2 tsp Garam Masala coriander and mint.
20g/'% cup Coriander
THE SEEDS AND NUTS: Heat oil in a kadhaiand deep fry sunflower seeds
20g/ '% cup Mint and cashewnuts until light brown.
20g/2
Sunflower
Tbs seeds
50g/ 3 cup Cashewnuts
Groundnut Oil to deep fry COOKING

Heat ghee in a handi, add onions and saute over medium heat until
golden brown. Add the ginger and garlic pastes, red chillies and
turmeric—all dissolved in 60ml/'4 cup of water—and stir for a minute.
Then add chicken, stir, add water (approx 600ml/2!4 cups), bring to a
boil and simmer until tender. Adjust the seasoning. Sprinkle garam
masala, coriander and mint, stir, add sunflower seeds and cashewnuts,
bring to a boil.

Serves: 4 TO SERVE
Nii te ce Se Sire ee ei ete Toe es) ae
Preparation time: 30 minutes
Cooking time: 25 minutes Remove to a dish and serve with rice or an Indian bread of your choice.
 SOFYANI BIRYANI
133

SOFYANI BIRYANI INGREDIENTS

800g/ 134 Ib Chicken (1 bird)
A saffron-flavoured rice delicacy, mild and easy to digest.
450g/2'% cups Basmati Rice
150g/ 34 cup Ghee
PREPARATION Salt
Whole Garam Masala
6 Green Cardamom
THE CHICKEN: Clean, remove the skin and cut into 8 pieces.
2 Black Cardamom
THE RICE: Pick, wash in running water and soak in a handi for 30 6 Cloves
minutes. Drain, replenish with fresh water, add salt and half each of the 2 sticks Cinnamon (1-inch)
whole garam masala and black cumin, bring to a boil and cook until rice 2 Bay Leaves
is almost done. Drain. A pinch Mace
THE VEGETABLES: Peel, wash and slice onions. Clean, wash and chop
mint and coriander. 100g/24 cup Onions
THE YOGHURT: Whisk in a bowl and divide into two equal portions. 25g/4 tsp Ginger paste
THE SAFFRON: Dissolve in warm milk. Add one portion of the yoghurt 25g/4 tsp Garlic paste
and mix well. 10g/2 tsp Red Chilli powder
500g/24% cups Yoghurt
THE OVEN: Pre-heat to 375° F.
30m1/2 Tis Lemon juice
Y’yg/1 tsp Saffron
COOKING 30m1/2 Tbs Milk
20g/ 3 cup Mint
Heat ghee in a handi, add the remaining whole garam masala and black 20g//3 cup Coriander
cumin, saute over medium heat until cumin begins to crackle. Add
onions and saute until golden brown. Then add ginger paste, garlic paste
—Continued
and red chillies, stir for 15 seconds, add chicken and bhunno for 2
minutes. Add the portion of the plain yoghurt, stir, add water (approx
200m1/ % cup + 4 tsp), bring toa boil, then simmer until chicken is three-
fourths cooked. Sprinkle lemon juice. Adjust the seasoning.

ASSEMBLING

In the handi with the semi-cooked chicken, sprinkle half each of the
saffron-yoghurt, mint and coriander. Then spread half the rice over the
chicken. Sprinkle the remaining saffron-yoghurt, mint and coriander,
spread the remaining rice. Place a moist cloth on top, cover with a lid
and seal with atta-dough.

FINISHING
Put the sealed handi on dum in the pre-heated oven for 15-20 minutes.

aaa
 DALCHA GOSHT
14

TO SERVE

Serves: 4 Break the seal, shift the rice from one side (just enough to remove the
Preparation time: 30'minutes chicken), make a bed of chicken in a rice dish, spread the rice on top and
Cooking time: 35 minutes serve.

INGREDIENTS DALCHA GOSHT

600g/ 1/3 lb Leg of Spring
A sour lamb stew, simmered in a lentil puree.
Lamb
200g/1 cup Channa dal
Salt PREPARATION
120g/24 cup Ghee
Whole Garam Masala THE LAMB: Clean and cut into 1'4-inch chunks.
5 Green Cardamom
THE LENTIL: Pick, wash in running water and soak for 30 minutes ina
1 Black Cardamom
handi. Drain, replenish with fresh water (approx 800ml/3!4 cups),
5 Cloves
I stick Cinnamon (1-inch)
add salt and boil until cooked. Remove, cool, transfer to a blender and
1 Bay Leaf make a puree.
A pinch Mace THE VEGETABLES: Peel, wash and slice onions. Remove stems, wash,
100g/2/4cup Onions slit, deseed and chop green chillies. Wash curry leaves. Peel and crush
25g/4 tsp Ginger paste garlic.
25g/4 tsp Garlic paste THE BOUQUET GARNI: Tie coriander seeds and curry leaves in muslin.
3 Green Chillies THE YOGHURT: Whisk in a bowl.
10g/2 tsp Red Chilli powder
3g/'4 tsp Turmeric
5g/ 1 tsp Coriander powder COOKING
400g/1% cups Yoghurt
20g/ 3 Tbs Coriander seeds Heat ghee in a handi, add whole garam masala and saute over medium
20 Curry Leaves heat until it begins to crackle. Add onions and saute until golden brown.
60ml/%4 cup Lemon juice Then add ginger paste, garlic paste and green chillies, stir for 15 seconds,
add lamb, bhunno for 3-4 minutes, add red chilli powder, turmeric and
The Tempering coriander powder,’ stir. Now add water (approx 1.4 litres/534 cups),
30m1/7'4 tsp Ghee bring to a boil, renyove handi, add yoghurt, return to heat, bring toa boil
5 cloves Garlic again, suspend the bouquet garni, cover and simmer until lamb is
4Chillies
Whole Red tender. Add the lenti] puree, bring to a boil, simmer for 15 minutes.
Remove the bouquet garni, sprinkle lemon juice and stir. Adjust the
seasoning.
To prepare the tempering, heat ghee in a pan, add garlic and saute over
medium heat until golden brown. Add red chillies and stir. Remove and
pour over the lamb stew, stir.
1Yyeys BYsyNy
SSAA
ase
 Jhinga

‘athi
 NAWABI TARKARI BIRYANI
a

TO SERVE
Serves: 4
Preparation time: 40 minutes
Remove to a dish and serve with steamed rice or cumin-tempered Pulao. Cooking time: 1:05 hours

NAWABI TARKARI BIRYANI INGREDIENTS

350g/ 1% cups Basmati Rice
favourite with the ‘Noobs’ of Hyderabad—whenever they wanted
200g/7 0z Potatoes
to forego meat and yet wanted something delicious. Like the
200g/7 oz Carrots
Sofyani, the Nawabi too is mild and ‘light’.
50g/s
Cashewnuts
cup _
50g/'/3 cup Almonds
PREPARATION 25g/3
Sultanas
Tbs

THE RICE: Pick, wash in running water and soak in a handi for 30 120g/24 cup Ghee
minutes. Drain, replenish with fresh water, add half the whole garam Whole Garam Masala
masala and salt, bring to a boil and cook until rice is almost done. Drain. 6 Green Cardamom
2 Black Cardamom
THE VEGETABLES: Peel, wash and dice potatoes and carrots, immerse
6 Cloves
potatoes in water. Peel, wash and slice onions. Remove stems, wash, slit
2 sticks Cinnamon (l-inch)
and deseed green chillies. Scrape, wash and cut ginger into juliennes. 2 Bay Leaves
Peel and chop garlic. Clean, wash and chop mint and coriander. A pinch Mace
THE ALMONDS: Blanch, cool and peel. Salt
THE YOGHURT: Whisk in a bowl and divide into two equal portions. 100g. 24 cup Onions
THE SAFFRON: Dissolve in warm milk. Add one portion of the yoghurt 4 Green Chillics
and mix weil. 30g/ 3 Tbs Ginger

THE OVEN: Pre-heat to 375° F. 20g/2 Tibs Garlic

3g/ 4 tsp Turmeric
5g/1 tsp Red Chilli powder
COOKING 220g/1 cup Yoghurt
g/ | tsp Saffron
Heat ghee in a handi, add the remaining whole garam masala and saute 30m1/2 Tbs Milk
over medium heat until it begins to crackle. Add onions, saute until 20g/Yscup Mint
golden brown, add green chillies, ginger and garlic, saute for a minute. 20g/Yscup Coriander
Then add turmeric and red chillies, stir, add the diced vegetables and stir
Rosewater to sprinkle
for a minute. Add the portion of plain yoghurt, stir, add water (approx (optional)
150ml/24 cup), bring to a boil, then simmer until vegetables are cooked.
Now add the dry fruits and nuts. Adjust the seasoning. — Continued

ASSEMBLING

In the handi with the cooked vegetables, sprinkle half each of saffron-
yoghurt, mint and coriander. Then spread half the rice over the
 SUBZ KHADA MASALA aaa IE
EET A TE EE TIT TEEEEEnEEEEEEENSE
IE IO SE EAT METRE EO ID
EE EEE

136
Neen eee

vegetables. Sprinkle the remaining saffron-yoghurt, mint and

coriander, spread the remaining rice. Sprinkle rosewater (optional).
Place a moist cloth on top, cover with a lid and seal with atta-dough.

FINISHING

Put the sealed handi on dum in the pre-heated oven for 15-20 minutes.

TO SERVE

Serves: 4 Break the seal, shift the rice from one side (just enough to remove the
Preparation time: 35 minutes vegetables), make a bed of vegetables in a rice dish, spread the rice on
Cooking time: 35 minutes top and serve.

INGREDIENTS
SUBZ KHADA MASALA
100g/3'4 oz Beans
100g/3'4 oz Peas
chilli ‘hot’ mixed-vegetable dish with a predominant flavour of
100g/3!4 oz Carrots
fenugreek.
150g/5
Potatoes
oz
250g/9 oz Cauliflower PREPARATION
150m1/?4 cup Groundnut Oil
25g/7 tsp Ginger THE VEGETABLES: Wash, string and dice beans. Peel, wash and dice
25g/7 tsp Garlic
carrots and potatoes, immerse the potatoes in water. Wash and cut
cauliflower into florets. Scrape, wash and roughly chop ginger. Peel and
160g/1cup Spring Onions roughly chop garlic. Wash and slice the bulbs of spring onions, discard
3g/%5
tspTurmeric
the greens. Wash and chop tomatoes. Remove stems and wash green
Sg/ 1 tsp Red Chilli powder
chillies. Clean, wash and chop coriander and fenugreek. immerse
80g/'/3 cup Tomatoes fenugreek in salted water for 15 minutes and drain.
4 Green Chillies
THE YOGHURT: Whisk in a bowl.
4 Whole Red Chillies
20g/s cup Coriander
COOKING
225g/1
cup Yoghurt
60g/1
Fenugreek
cup Heat oilina kadhai, add ginger and garlic, saute over medium heat for
Salt 30 seconds, add spring onions and saute for 30 seconds. Add beans,
peas, carrots, potatoes and cauliflower, stir for a minute, add turmeric
and red chilli powder, stir. Then add tomatoes, green chillies, whole red
chillies and coriander, stir for a minute, add yoghurt and fenugreek, stir.
‘Now add water (approx 300ml/1'4 cups), bring to a boil, simmer until
vegetables are cooked and the liquid has evaporated. Adjust the
seasoning.

Serves: 4 TO SERVE
Preparation time: 30 minutes
Cooking time: 20 minutes Remove to a dish and serve with an Indian bread of your choice.
—_————_—_—_——
ee
EERSTE ASE STIS IETS SSIES TSI SOPOT LST ES VS ETS SS SS SSS Se SESS SSUES SSINOSTSUSNENSPEH
 MITHA
(Desserts)
With Manjit S. Gill & Chandra B. Tewari

indus believe the only way to nirvana is through puja, the act of daily worship. This
spirituality is the basis for Indian sweets or mithai, for it is the mithai which is offered by
a devotee to please the chosen God or Goddess. In the Bhagvata Purana, Lord Krishna
describes mithai as the Food of Gods. To the Hindus, the centre of the Sea of Nectar is
the most sacred abode. It is where they crave to reside. This nectar or amrit is prepared from five
ingredients: honey, milk, desi ghee (clarified butter), sugar and water. With the addition of rulsi it is
used to bathe the idol or object of worship during puja. These five ingredients are intrinsic to all
Indian sweets and there is.a specific reason for using each one of them. However, for reasons of
space, it is impossible to go into specifics. Suffice it to say that blended with fruits, vegetables,
aromatic spices, dry fruits, nuts and essences, they help create an astounding variety of exotic sweet
dishes.
What distinguishes Indian desserts from the sweets of other lands is that they are not prepared to
satisfy a sweet-tooth alone. Theyare, in fact, intended to provide nourishment. Besides, in this land
of rich traditions, to offer sweets is the ultimate act of friendship—a sign of love and affection.
=|

CHANDRA BuHaNn Tewari After initial training in

Calcutta—home of the finest Indian sweetmeats—and a
two-year apprenticeship with the doyen of Lucknow
halwais, K.L. Roy, Tewari today heads the mithai kitchen
at the Welcomgroup Maurya Sheraton.
—t

eee enamine
aie
 MITHA (DESSERTS)
138
There is a mistaken belief that, like the traditional vegetarian snacks, mithai too can only be made
by the halwais (the word, in all probability, derives from halwa, the dessert made by reducing
vegetables or fruits with sugar) or professional confectioner. Nothing could be farther from the
truth. Indian desserts are as simple—or difficult—to make as any other desserts. In fact, like
Western confections, exact quantities of ingredients are an imperative for mithai making.
A salient feature of preparing Indian sweets is the use of reduced milk. Each dessert requires a level
of reduction on which there can be no compromise.
Just as North Indian vegetarian snacks are inconceivable without ajwain, mithai shares a unique
relationship with green cardamom powder. The other essential is kewra, vetivier, which fs
sprinkled on the dessert at the time of service.

This chapter includes two extraordinary sweets: Mushq-e-Tanjan and Murgh-ki-Burfi—made

from lamb and chicken mince, respectively. Extraordinary because they are, perhaps, the only
non-vegetarian desserts in the world!

Assisted by Mohammed Naseem

 RABARHI
139

RABARHI INGREDIENTS
3 litres/124 cups Milk
he mithai that explains
p the g girth of of the Northerners
erners and satiates
i aROgrieupe Supat
eines Sa en. eee
their sweet tooth. Despite the constant attention—and time— x
required, Rabarhi is a surprisingly simple dessert to make. 5 drops Vetivier rE:
20g/3 Tbs Pistachio
Chandi-ka-Varq
PREPARATION (silver leaves)

THE PISTACHIO: Blanch, cool, remove the skin and cut into slivers.

COOKING

Put milk in a kadhai, bring to a boil, reduce to low heat and stir
constantly for 20 minutes. Thence stir after every 5 minutes until mitk is
reduced to 900ml1/334 cups and acquires a granular consistency.
Remove, add sugar and stir until dissolved. Then add vetivier and stir.
Cool, remove to a silver bowl, garnish ‘with pistachio and refrigerate.

TO SERVE

Remove from the refrigerator, cover with varq and serve chilled.
(Rabarhi is best served in individual shikoras—earthenware bowls— _ Yield: 1 kg/244 Ib
and should be portioned out, garnished with pistachio and then _ Preparation time: 5 minutes
refrigerated. It should be covered with varq only at the time of service.) Cooking time: 2 hours

Note: (i) For Kulfi, Shahi Tukrha and Zauq-E-Shahi, reduce milk to 1.05 litres/4%
cups. For Kulfi, add 400g/2 cups of sugar. For the other two, add 300g/1% cups of
sugar. Do not look for a granular consistency.
(ii) For Rasmalai, reduce the milk to 1.2 litres/5/ cups, add 350g/1'4 cups of sugar and,
again, there will be no granular consistency.

SHAHI TUKRHA INGREDIENTS

he Bint Sh 350g/% lb Rabarhi*
his dessert of the Nawabs is without the semblance of a@6wbt India’s — (Unsweetened)
most exotic—and famous—sweet dish. Garnished with dry fruits 600g/3 cups Sugar
and covered with sheets of pure silver leaves, Shahi Tukrha is sterling drop
|Vetivier
stuff. RTT EAI— Continued
K
 KULFI
140 ————__>R-$§$€--$>$--~--”0”0”0"””
ee

$TCT™ONHTomon”-.oOjOeEOEDODW Ee
3g/ Vy isp Green Cardamom —_—_—_

powder PREPARATION
Bread ———
——_—— ————— — 00O08}“(.VCCC
—————— —LS
12 slices Milk

Groundnut Oil to deep fry typ r4BARHI: Add 100g/% cup of sugar while it is still warm and stir
2 litres/8/3 cups Milk until dissolved. Add vetivier and stir.
Oe ee panne: THE SYRUP: Boil the remaining sugar with water (approx 300ml/1%
5b 2.8p Pistachio cups) to make a syrup of one-string consistency. Add cardam-m powder
1g/2 tsp Saffron and stir.

peated pe THE BREAD: Slice off the crust and trim the edges to make discs. Heat
learn Se) oil in a kadhai and deep fry over low heat until golden brown and crisp
THE MILK: Bring toa boil ina large, 'flat, thick-bottomed handi, remove’
and reserve 15ml/1 Tbs to dissolve saffron.
THE TUKRHA: Immerse the fried bread in the remaining milk, the slices
at least an inch apart. Return the handi to heat and simmer until the milk
is absorbed, turning once in between with a spatula without breaking the
bread. Remove from heat and pour on the warm syrup.
THE NUTS: Blanch almonds and pistachio, cool, remove the skin and
‘cut'into slivers.
THE SAFFRON: Dissolve in the reserved milk while it is still warm.

ASSEMBLING

Arrange the soaked Tukrha on a silver platter, spread Rabarhi on top,

garnish with nuts and sprinkle saffron.

Yield: (2 TO SERVE
Preparation time: |: 15 hours
(Plus time taken for Rabarhi) | Cover the Shahi Tukrha with Varg and serve warm.

Note: The alternative and just as tasty method is to serve the Shahi Tukrhacold. Do not
soak in milk, pour on the warm sugar syrup on the crisp bread discs, spread Rabarhi on
top, garnish with nuts sprinkle saffron and refrigerate. Remove at the time of service,
cover with Vargq and serve.
*See recipe for Rabarhi in this section.

INGREDIENTS KULFI
1kg/2'4 lb Rabarhi* ‘ ‘
(unsweetened) he creamy and rich ice-cream, made predominantly in saffron,
400g/2 cups Sugar pistachio, saffron-pistachio, and mango flavours—flavours from
Oa Tb PoechiC the real thing, not essence. The recipe below is for saffron-pistachio—
as ROSIE ISTO:
 RASMALAI
RAS a SS TES LUA DTI REE SEER ISTE RESIDE EE DSPASAT OSE ES ESP SO PR at RCE PEE SBOE ESASEAE AEE EH Le I ENTE AED EEO
14]

2g/4 tsp Saffron

PREPARATION 30mi/2
Tbs Milk
2g//; tsp Green Cardamom
THE PISTACHIO: Blanch, cool, remove the skin and cut into slivers. powder
THE SAFFRON: Dissolve in warm milk. Falooda for Garnish*
THE RABARHI: Add sugar, pistachio, saffron and cardamom while it is ROR OR ERE
still warm and stir until sugar is dissolved. Cool.

ASSEMBLING

Put Rabarhi-in Kulfi moulds or an ice-cream mould and freeze.

TO SERVE Yield: 8-10

Seeger . F : Preparation time: 10 minutes
Demould, slice into half vertically (if an ice-cream mould has been used, — (Plus time taken for Rabarhi
cut into I-inch thick slices), garnish with Falooda, top with rose syrup _—_and Falooda)
and serve. Freezing time: 6 hours

Note: For Aam-ki-Kulfi, use 200g/7 oz of mango dices or mango puree instead of
saffron and pistachio. Add the puree when the Rabarhihas cooled down. The rest of the
procedure is the same.

*See recipes for Rabarhi and Falooda in this section.

RASMALAI INGREDIENTS
. ; ; 250g/9 oz Chhenna*
C hhenna is synonymous with Bengal. It is used to make the Eastern ai ————
State’s sweetmeats—easily the best ie on the Sub-continent— Ig/! Baki 7
including the famous Rasgoolah. Rasmalai is a Rasgoolah in Rabarhi. gi tsp Baking powdesy
750g/3% cups Sugar
500g/18 oz Rabarhi**
PREPARATION (unsweetened)

THE CHHENNA: Knead gently to mash any granules. Sieve 10g/4 tsp of —Continued
flour and baking powder together, mix with chhenna and knead to make
a dough. Divide into 12 equal portions, make balls and gently squeeze
between the palms and flatten to make ‘patties’ (approx 1/4-inch
diameter), ensuring that the surface is smooth.
THE REMAINING FLOUR: Dissolve in 30ml1/2 Tbs of water.
THE RABARHI. Add 150g/% cup of sugar while it is still warm and stir
until dissolved. Cool and refrigerate in the serving bowl.
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 GULAB JAMUN
1oD
THE PISTACHIO: Blanch, cool, remove the skin and cut into slivers.

COOKING

Dissolve the remaining sugar in water (approx 400ml/1?Acups) and

bring to a boil, add the dissolved flour and, when the syrup rises, add the
‘patties’ and poach over high heat for 10 minutes. This is a tricky
operation because under no circumstances should the syrup be allowed
to settle down. To maintain the consistency, add water (approx
180ml/% cup) in a steady trickle. To ascertain whether the Rasmalai is
cooked, remove one ina spoon and look closely for perforations, akin to
those in a sponge, which will appear on the surface for only a second.

Fill water (approx 800ml/3!4 cups) in a separate handi, transfer

Rasmalai, alongwith the syrup, and cool.

ASSEMBLING

Remove Rabarhi from the refrigerator. Gently squeeze out the syrup
from the Rasmalai and transfer to the bowl of Rabarhi. Refrigerate.

Serves: 4
Preparation time: 39 minutes
TO SERVE
(Plus time taken for Rabarhi)
Cooking time: 30 minutes Remove from the refrigerator, garnish with pistachio and serve cold.

*See section on Milk.

**See recipe for Rabarhi in this section.

INGREDIENTS
GULAB JAMUN
300g/ 11 0z Khoya*
50g/2.0z Chhenna* ae favourite with expatriate Indians, Gulab Jamun is a Khoya
delicacy stuffed with pistachio and green cardamom seeds.
990g/4'%4cups Sugar
40g/5 Tbs + | tsp Flour
A pinch
bi-carb.
Soda PREPARATION
10
Cardamom
Green
10g/4
Pistachio
tsp THE KHOYA: Knead gently**, to mash any granules.
\
1g/2 tsp Saffron THE CHHENNA: Crumble and knead gently**, to mash any granules.
2drops Rosewater
THE SYRUP: Boil sugar with water (540ml/2'% cups) to make a syrup of
Concentrate
one-string consistency. Keep warm.
Ghee tc deep fry
ed

ZAUQ-E-SHAHI
THE SODA BI-CARB: Dissolve in a tablespoon of water.
THE GULA JAB
MUN MIXTURE: Mix Chhenna with Khoya, add flour and
the dissolved soda bi-carb, knead gently**, Kescrve 50g/2 oz for the
filling and make 20-24 balls of 1-inch diameter \/ith the remaining
mixture.
THE FILLING: Peel cardamom and discard the skin. Blanch pistachio,
cool, remove the skin and cut into slivers. Pound saffron with a
pestle to break the flakes. Add cardamom seeds, pistachio slivers,
' saffron flakes and rosewater concentrate to the reserved mixture and
raix well.
THE STUFFING: Flatten the balls, place a portion of the filling in the
middle, seal and make smooth balls.
SY

COOKING

Heat ghee in kadhai, add the balls and deep fry over medium heat until
golden brown. Swirl ghee with a pooni (perforated spoon) constantly
and without touching the Gulab Jamun until they come to the surface.
(This prevents sticking.) Remove and immerse immediately in the syrup.

TO SERVE Yield: 20-24

; ; Preparation time:40minutes
Remove to a glass bowl, alongwith the syrup, put 20r3 Gulab Jamunin —_ Cooking time: 10-12 minutes
individual bowls, pour a tablespoon of syrup on top and serve hot. for each set

Note: Kalajam is an overfried version of Gulab Jamun. The balls are deep fried until
dark brown, immersed in syrup and removed. Kalajam and vanilla ice-cream make a
tasty combination.
*See section on Milk.
** Caution is emphasized because if treated roughly the fat will separate from the Khoya.

ZAUQ-E-SHAHI INGREDIENTS
, ‘ ; P 500g/18 oz Rabarhi*
arble-size Gulab Jamun combine with a creamy Rabarhitomake (unsweetened)
this a classic dessert—a fine example ofthe innovative spirit of the AGE
Indian Chef. (grap Sallon
—— 5g/ 1 tsp Green Cardamom
PREPARATION Jou ae ee
200g/7 0z Gulab Jamun*

THE RABARHI. Add 100g/ 4 cup ofsugar while it is still warm and stir until atl oa
dissolved. Add saffron and stir. —Continued
PHIRNI

6g/2 tsp Poppy seeds THE SYRUP: Boil the remaining sugar with water (300ml/1'%4 cups)
Ghee to deep fry to make a syrup of one-string consistency. Add cardamom and stir.
10g/4 tsp Pistachio Keep warm.
20g/3 Tbs Almonds THE GULABJAMUN MIXTURE: Add poppy seeds, knead gently and make
35-40 balls of !4-inch diameter. Heat ghee ina kadhai and deep fry the
marbles over medium heat until golden brown. Swirl ghee witha pooni,
without touching the marbles, until they come to the surface. (This
prevents sticking.) Remove and immerse immediately in the syrup.
THE NUTS: Blanch pistachio and almonds, cool, remove the skin and cut
into slivers.

ASSEMBLING
Serves: 4
Preparation time: | hour
(Plus time taken for Rabarhi Transfer the soaked marbles to a shallow silver dish, pour on the
and Gulab Jamun mixtu-e) Rabarhi, garnish with the nuts and serve warm.

*See recipes for Rabarhi and Gulab Jamun in this section.

INGREDIENTS
PHIRNI
| litre/4 cups Milk
50g/%cup Basmati Rice
popular dessert, set in shikoras—earthenware bowls—and
flavoured with cardamom and saffron.
250g/ 14 cups Sugar
1g/2 tsp Saffron
5g/1 tsp Green Cardamom PREPARATION
powder
2 drops Rosewater
THE RICE: Pick, wash in running water and soak for 30 minutes. Drain,
Concentrate
put in a blender, add water (approx 30ml/2 Tbs) and make a fine paste.
5g/2 tsp Pistachio
THE SAFFRON: Dissolve in 15ml/1 Tbs of warm milk.
10g/4 tsp Almonds
THE NUTS: Blanch pistachio and almonds, cool, remove the skin and cut
into slivers.
THE SHIKORAS: Rinse in running water and then immerse in a handi full
of water for 25 minutes. Remove and pat dry.

COOKING

Boil the remaining milk in a handi, add the rice paste and sugar whilst
stirring with a whisk. Reduce to low heat and cook, stirring constantly

|
(to ensure no lumps are formed), until the mixture becomes thick and is
reduced to a custard consistency. Add saffron, cardamom and
rosewater concentrate, stir and remove.
ee eeeeeeFeeFeFeFeFeFeSFSsSeEeSseF
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 KESA RI KHEER
SS a I I I SESS PSS SS SS SS Ss SSS ECS VERSE SO RESET EES
145

ASSEMBLING

Pour equal quantities of Phirni in the shikoras (or glass bowls), garnish
with pistachio and almond slivers, cool and refrigerate until set.

TO SERVE Serves: 4
; Preparation time: 40 minutes
Remove shikoras from refrigerator and serve cold. Cooking time: 15 minutes

KESARI KHEER INGREDIENTS

1.5 litres/6%4 cups Milk
he traditional rice pudding, consumed on all occasions—is served by 75g/3 oz Basmati Rice
rich and poor alike, the garnish reflecting the wealth of the host.
ISg/4tspGhee
Sees eee eee eee eee 125g/24 cup Sugar
PREPARATION 5g/1 tsp Green Cardamom
powder

THE RICE: Pick, wash in running water, soak for an hour and drain.
20g/3
Almonds
Tbs
15g/5 tsp Raisins
THE ALMONDS: Blanch, cool, remove the skin and split.
Ig/2 tsp Saffron
THE SAFFRON: Dissolve in warm milk. 30m1/2
Tbs Milk todissolve
saffron

COOKING

Boil milk in a handi and remove. Heat ghee ina separate handi, add rice
and bhunno until it begins to colour (approx 4-5 minutes). Transfer the
milk and bring to a boil, stirring constantly (to ensure that the rice does
not stick). Reduce to low heat and simmer until the rice is cooked. Then
add sugar and continue to cook until reduced to a custard consistency..
Now add the remaining ingredients, and stir for a minute.

TO SERVE Yield: 1kg/2%4 Ib

Preparation time: |:20 hours
Remove to a silver bowl and serve hot. Cooking time: 45 minutes

ee —————————————————————————————

Note: (i) Kheer can also be served cold. Use anadditional 25g/2 Tbs of sugar. Then pour
equal quantities of Kheer in shikoras after cooling it and refrigerate. Ga rnish with varq.

(ii) Saffron is optional.

en
aaa,
————
 SEVIAN
146

INGREDIENTS SEVIAN
1.2 litres/5 cups Milk
60g/2 oz Sevian
t is not-unusual even today to see a Punjabi grandmother twirling
dough for hours to make sevian—vermicelli. This dessert 1s
120g/24 cup Ghee
particularly popular in winter.
20g/3 Tbs Almonds
150g/% cup Sugar
15g/5 tsp Raisins PREPARATION
6 Green Cardamom
2drops Vetivier THE SEVIAN: Heat ghee in a kadhai, add vermicelli and saute over
medium heat, stirring constantly—but gently, lest it crumbles—until
golden brown. Drain the fat.
THE ALMONDS: Blanch, cool and remove the skin.
THE CARDAMOM: Peel, discard the skin and pound the seeds with a
pestle.

COOKING

Boil milk in a handi, add the fried sevian, stir carefully and simmer until
milk is reduced by half. Add almonds and simmer for 5 minutes. Then
add sugar and stir until dissolved. Now add raisins, stir, add the
pounded cardamom seeds and vetivier, stir.

Serves: 4 TO SERVE
Preparation time: 10 minutes
Cooking time: 45 minutes Remove to 2 bowl and serve hot.

INGREDIENTS | SHRIKHAND
1.5kg/3 lb Yoghurt
MY Radon India’s favourite dessert—akin to a souffle—flavoured with
150/1% cups Castor Sugar saffron and cardamom.
Ig/2
Saffron
tsp
15m)/1 Tbs Milk
5g/1 tsp Green Cardamom PREPARATION
powder
5g/2 tsp Pistachio THE YOGHURT: Hang in muslin ina cool place until completely drained
5g/ 14 tsp Sunflower seeds of whey (approx 6-8 hours).
THE SAFFRON: Dissolve in warm milk. Cool.
THE PISTACHIO: Blanch, cool, remove the skin and cut into slivers.
THE SHRIKHAND: Transfer the hung yoghurt to a bowl, add sugar and
whisk until fluffy. Add saffron and cardamom, mix well. Remove to a
glass bowl and gently thump the bow! to level the Shrikhand. (Do not
---_oe
&

SAEB KI KHEER
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level with a spoon—the dessert is not meant to look like a well-set
souffle.) Garnish with pistachio and sunflower seeds. Refrigerate for 2
hours.

TO SERVE
Yield: | kg/2% lb
Remove from the refrigerator and serve cold. Preparation time: 8:30 hours

SAEB KI KHEER INGREDIENTS

lkg/2'% lb Apples
(Rvggoin and aromatic—saffron and cardamom—apple dessert. 1.5
litres/644
cups Milk
200g/ 1 cup Sugar —
PREPARATION lg/2 tsp Saffron
30ml1/2 Tbs Milk to dissolve
saffron
THE APPLES: Peel, core and dice. Put in a kadhai, add sugar and stew
3g/'%4 tsp Green Cardamom
over medium heat, stirring constantly—but gently (to prevent the
powder
apples from getting mashed)—until the sugar has dissolved and the
5 drops Rosewater
liquid has evaporated. Remove and cool.
Cherries for Garnish
THE SAFFRON: Dissolve in warm milk. Chandi-ka-Varq a
(silver leaves)

COOKING

Boil milk in a kadhai, reduce to low heat and simmer until reduced to
600ml/2!4 cups. Add saffron, cardamom and rosewater, stir. Remove,
when warm add the stewed apples and stir. Transfer toa silver bowl and
refrigerate.

TO SERVE
Yield: |kg/2% lb
Remove from the refrigerator, garnish with cherries, cover with varq . Preparation time: 35 minutes
and serve cold. Cooking time: | hour

GAJJAR KA HALWA INGREDIENTS

Ikg/2% lb Carrots
A carrot and Khoya dessert, garnished with nuts and raisins. Ilitre/4
cups Milk
200g/1
cup Sugar
PREPARATION 100g/7
Tbs Ghee
—Continued
THE CARROTS: Peel, wash and grate.
 ANANAS KA MUZAAFAR __.__..__

14S ee
i
eo

5g/ 1 tsp Green Cardamom THE KHOYA: Grate.

powder THE NUTs: Blanch almonds and pistachio, cool and remove the skin.
60g/2 oz Khoya* Split almonds, cut pistachio into slivers.
20g/3 Tbs Almonds
THE RAISINS: Soak in water.
10g/4 tsp Pistachio
Ea
SS GS PR SSE SS eee
15g/5 tsp Raisins
COOKING

Boil milk in a kadhai, add the grated carrots, reduce to medium heat and
cook, stirring constantly, until carrots are tender and most of the liquid
has evaporated. Add sugar and stir until dissolved and the liquid has
evaporated. Then add ghee and bhunno for 3-4 minutes. Remove, add
cardamom and stir.

TO SERVE
Yield: 1kg/2% |b
Preparation time: 30 minutes
(Plus time taken for Khoya) Remove to a silver bowl, garnish with Khoya, almonds, pistachio and
Cooking time: 45 minutes raisins. Serve hot.

*See section on Milk.

INGREDIENTS
ANANAS KA MUZAAFAR
250g/ 1% cups Basmati Rice
500g/2'4cups Sugar dessert for all festive occasions in Avadh, the Muzaafar is made in
two popular flavours: mango and pineapple (below).
Apinch Nutmeg
20m1/4tsp Lemon juice _
1g/2 tsp Saffron PREPARATION
2 drops Vetivier
3 drops Pineapple essence THE RICE: Pick, wash in running water and soak for 2 hours. Drain.
5Green Cardamom THE SAFFRON: Pound with a pestle to break the flakes.
5 Cloves
THE SYRUP: Boil sugar with water (150ml/24 cup), add nutmeg and
5 drops Yellow Colour lemon juice, stir until the syrup becomes thick. Stir-in saffron, vetivier
2 Pineapple rings and pineapple essence.
75g/Ys
cup Desi Ghee
(Clarified Butter only)
THE CARDAMOM: Peel, discard the skin and pound the seeds with a pestle.
THE PINEAPPLE RINGS: Cut into '4-inch pieces.
THE OVEN: Pre-heat to 250° F.
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COOKING
gp

Heat water (approx 1.2 litres/5 cups) in a handi, add the drained rice,
a
re
 MUSHQ-E-TANJAN
149
cardamom, cloves and yellow colour, boil until the rice is just cooked.
Drain.
Heat the syrup over low heat, add the cooked rice, mix well and remove
when the syrup-starts boiling. Add the pineapple pieces, mix well.

FINISHING

Transfer the rice and syrup mixture to an earthenware handi (or a

shallow casserole), cover with a lid, seal with atta-dough (or silver foil)
and put on dum ona tawa over low heat (or in the pre-heated oven) for
an hour.

TO SERVE

Break the seal (or tear off the foil) pour ghee evenly over the rice in a Serves: 4
steady stream and serve from the handi (or casserole). If rice is not fully Preparation time: 2:15 hours
cooked, put on the fawa (or in the oven) for a few minutes more. Cooking time: 1:15 hours

MUSHQ-E-TANJAN INGREDIENTS
The Rice
Mas (Aroma of the Heavens) tanjan (treasure)—is a sweet lamb-
500g/2'4 cups Basmati Rice
rice—a dessert of classic proportions. A delicacy cooked in
4 Green Cardamom
varying quantities of sugar: equal, double, treble, quadruple and the
halves in between. The calibre of a chef is discerned by his ability to get 4 Cloves
the rice to absorb as much of the sweet stuff as is possible—without 2 sticks Cinnamon (I-inch)
sticking. For you, we have taken the easiest quantity—equal—and do Salt
not fret if a thin layer does stick. It does not detract from the taste. 4g/1 tsp Saffron
15ml1/1 Tbs Milk
PREPARATION
The Lamb

THE RICE: Pick, wash in running water, soak for | hour and drain. 750g/1241b Spring Lamb
(assorted cuts)
Dissolve saffron in warm milk.
120g/'4 cup Desi Ghee
THE LAMB: Clean and cut breast, leg and shins into 14-inch chunks. (Clarified Butter only)
Peel garlic and cut into juliennes. Whisk yoghurt in a bowl. Dissolve 15g/5 tsp Garlic
saffron in 15ml1/1 Tbs of warm milk.
Salt
THE SYRUP: Boil sugar with water (approx 250ml/ 1 cup) over medium 100m1/7 Tbs Milk
heat for 7-8 minutes, stirring constantly, to make a thick syrup. |
4 Green Cardamom
eee
4 Cloves
COOKING
ee a ee mnt 4 sticks Cinnamon (I-inch)

Heat ghee in a handi, add garlic and saute over medium heat until light
brown. Add meat, salt, the remaining milk and water (approx 240ml/ —Contiriued

a EEE
SS
eS
 MURGH-KI-BURFI
150 cst a apc cS CE ES TE CS TCO

100g/'4 cup Yoghurt | cup), bring to a boil, add green cardamom, cloves and cinnamon, cover
3————~ _-_—
drops Vetivier and simmer for 20 minutes. Then add yoghurt, stir, cover and simmer,
3g/'4 tsp Mace powder stirring occasionally, until the liquid is reduced to one-third, add water
(approx 300ml/2%4 cups),: bring to a boil, cover and simmer, stirring
3g/'4 tsp Green Cardamom ; ‘ ne
acne occasionally, until lamb is almost cooked. Remove, add vetivier, mace,
Vaieep Sattron cardamom powder, saffron and lemon juice, stir and keep aside.
10ml/2 tsp Lemon juice Boil water (approx 2 litres/8'4 cups) in a separate handi, add the drained
rice, cardamom, cloves, cinnamon and salt, continue to boil until rice is
The Syrup three-fourths cooked. (To test, remove a few grains and squeeze between
500g/2'4 cups Sugar the thumb and forefinger—the rice will be slightly hard, will get mashed
but a few white specks will show. The specks are a sign of uncooked
The Garnish rice.) Drain and spread three-fourths over the cooked meat, sprinkle
Chandi-ka-Varq saffron and cover with the remaining rice. Seal the handi with atta
(silver leaves) _ dough and cook over low heat for 12-14 minutes. Break the seal, pour on
: the syrup evenly and seal again with atta-dough.
Heat a fawa, reduce to medium heat, place the handi on the tawa and
cook for 20 minutes. Reduce to low heat and cook for 25 minutes.

TO SERVE
Serves: 8
Preparation time: |:15 hours Break the seal, stir, remove to a shallow silver dish and garnish with
Cooking time: 2:30 hours varq.

Note: The Mushq-e-Tanjan can be put on dum ina pre-heated (250° F) oven, but the
results will never be the same.

INGREDIENTS MURGH-KI-BURFI
300g/ 74 lb Breasts of Chicken
his is an incredible dessert—a chicken sweetmeat, which can also be
800g/ 13% lb Khoya*
made from lamb mince.
200g/ | cup Sugar
1g/2 tsp Saffron
\Omi/2 tsp Milk PREPARATION
10g/2 tsp Green Cardamom ‘ : ‘
powder THE CHICKEN: Clean, remove the skin, debone, mince and refrigerate
2 drops Vetivier for 15 minutes. Mince again, refrigerate for 15 minutes and mince a third
time. Put the mince in a handi, add water (approx | litre/4 cups) and
heiGeraish whisk until homogenised. Force the homogenised liquid through fine
muslin into a kadhai, and reduce over medium heat, stirring constantly,
20g/3 Tbs Almonds
until devoid of moisture and the mince starts leaving the sides. (Ensure
20g/3 Tbs Pistachio
that the mince does not stick, nor gets coloured.)
Chandi-ka-Varq
THE KHOYA: Knead gently to mash any granules.
(silver leaves)
THE SAFFRON: Dissolve in warm milk.
THE GARNISH: Blanch, cool, remove the skin and cut almonds and
pistachio into slivers.
SS SSS SSS?
PARUPPU PAYASAM
SS ss SS Se ES
1S
eee ee ters SL Se Lae ce ee
COOKING

Heat khoya and sugar in a kadhai over medium heat and stir constantly
until sugar is dissolved and khoya starts boiling. Add the cooked
chicken mince and stir vigorously until fully incorporated and the
mixture starts boiling. Then add the saffron, cardamom and vetivier,
stir for a minute and transfer the mixture immediately to a shallow tray.
Level with a spatula, sprinkle almonds and pistachio, thump the tray on
a table or on the floor. Keep aside to set in a cool place.

TO SERVE

With the tip of a knife and a scale to guide, cut the set Burfiinto 1'4-inch Yield: [kg 2% Ib
squares (or diamonds). Remove carefully (with a flexible spatula) to a Preparation time: 1:15 hours
silver platter, cover with vargq and serve. Cooking time: 25 ninutes

*See section on Milk.

PARUPPU PAYASAM INGREDIENTS

1.5 litres/6%4 cups Milk
hat Kheer is to the North Indians, Paruppu Payasam is to the 100g/'4 cup Moong dal
denizens of the South. It isa must for Onam (the harvest festival)
150g/% cup Sugar
and Vishu (the New Year).
5g/ 1 tsp Green Cariamom
powder
PREPARATION 200g/ 2% cups Coconut

THE LENTIL: Pick, wash in running water and pat dry. Broil over
The Garnish
medium heat in a kadhai until light golden.
20g/3 Tbs Casnewnuts
THE COCONUT: Remove the brown skin, reserve 20g/'4 cup for garnish
Groundnut Oil to deep fry
and grate the rest.
THE GARNISH: Split cashewnuts and cut the reserved coconut into fine
slices. Heat oil in a kadhai and deep fry both until golden brown.

COOKING
Put the broiled lentil in a handi, add water (approx 440ml/ 124 cups)
and cook over low heat until the dal is tender and the liquid almost
absorbed. Add milk, bring to a boil and then simmer until reduced by
half. Then add sugar and cardamom, stir and simmer for 5 minutes.
Now add the grated coconut and stir.

TO SERVE Yield: 1kg/2\%4 lb

Preparation time: 20 minutes
Remove to a bowl, garnish and serve hot. Cooking time: | hour

aes SSS SS SSS SSS SSS SSS SS

 PAAL POLI
152

INGREDIENTS
PAAL POLI
1 litre/4 cups Milk
200g/ 1 cup Sugar lour puffs soaked in cardamom-flavoured milk—a favourite with
4g/1 tsp Saffron
Tamilians.
5g/1 tsp Green Cardamom
powder
PREPARATION
2002/7 0z Flour
50ml/3
Tbs Groundnut Oil THE DOUGH: Add groundnut oil to the flour and rub against the palms.
Groundnut Oil to deep fry Then add water (approx 90ml/6 Tbs) and knead to make a soft dough.
puffs Cover with a moist cloth and keep aside for 30 minutes. Divide into 12
equal portions, make balls and flatten with a rolling pin into 4-inch
discs.

COOKING

Boil milk in a kadhai, reduce to low heat, stir. constantly for 20 minutes.
Thence stir after every 5 minutes until milk is reduced to one-third.
Remove, add sugar, saffron and cardamom, stir until sugar is dissolved.
Heat oil in a separate kadhai and fry the discs, one-at-a-time, over
medium heat until they puff up and become light golden. Soak the puffs
in the reduced milk for not more than 5 minutes (or else they will
disintegrate).

TO SERVE
Serves: 4
Preparation time: 40 minutes Arrange 3 Poli on 4 individual plates, pour on the remaining reduced
Cooking time: 1:10 hours milk and serve warm.

INGREDIENTS
FALOODA
200g/7 oz Cornflour
YEis is a noodle-like garnish which not only complements Kulfi,
% tsp Yellow Cofou
(optronal) but makes it easy to bite into the frozen dessert.

PREPARATION

THE CORNFLOUR: Put in a kadhai, add colour and water (approx

750m1/3 cups + 2 Tbs) and stir until dissolved. Then boil over medium
heat, stirring constantly, until reduced toa gelatinous-consistency witha
sheen on the surface.
THE FALOQDA: Force the cooked cornflour immediately through a
noodle press, using the '\s-inch mesh and collect the Falooda in a
Yield: approx 800g/1% |b handi full of chilled water. (Store in a refrigerator and consume within
Preparation time: 45 minutes 48 hours.)
at ar ae a ee ee
 153

SNACKS
With Michael Graham

ndians are compulsive nibblers. They constantly need a ‘fix’of snacks to satisfy their ‘habit’.
It is not unusual to eat one full meal and gobble snacks for the rest of the day. Until a few years
ago, it was considered ‘unhealthy’ to eat out. An exception was made in the case of snacks.
Little wonder, then, that this nation boasts of an astonishing range of minor delicacies.
Unlike in the West, where it is customary to offer tea, coffee or a drink when a guest drops in,
Indians look for an excuse to offer you a snack with a cuppa—it’s a part of our hospitable
tradition. Almost the entire range of Indian snacks were—and still are—vegetarian. Perhaps this,
too, had something to do witha mistrust of the kind of meat used in the market. Not any more.
Murgh Pakora, Kheema Samosa, etc, are recent innovations. There is even Kheema Dosai! The
number of non-vegetarian snacks, however, still remains small. Regionwise, they find greater
favour in the more ‘carnivorous’ North. The Kheema Dosai is surely the ‘creation’ of some up-
country chef.
Ajwain is the pre-eminent spice in North Indian vegetarian snacks. It lends its unique flavour and
aroma to any number of them. The only other constant is a spicy and piquant chutney—fresh
mint or Saunth, occasionally both—which accompany all snacks—vegetarian and non-
vegetarian—of the region.

MICHAEL GRAHAM: Having the brilliant Richard Graham

for a brother might have been a handicap for a lesser chef.
Not for this Executive Chef at the Holiday Inn, Bombay,
who has emerged as a culinary virtuoso in his own right.
SNACKS

Southern snacks owe their popularity to the vast number of Uddippi restaurants around the
country. Actually, Uddippi is a province in the State of Karnataka. Intrepid Uddippis established
snack bars at every street corner making these eateries the mainstay of almost every metropolitan
city. They provided excellent value for money with their cheap snacks. So successful were they that
other Indians came to believe that Dosai, Vadai, Idli, Uppamma and Bonda was all there was to
South Indian cuisine.

An amazing aspect of the Southern snacks is the variety one can make with rice flour as a base.
These snacks owe their popularity to the fact that besides being tasty and whdlesome, the use of
spices and fat is restricted to the minimum. The lack of both is, however, made up by their
abundance in the accompaniments— Sambhar, chutneys and Mulagapodi.

Surprisingly, almost all Indian snacks are either shallow fried or deep fried. The steamed Jdli is a
notable exception. The other surprising aspect of Indian snacks is that except for the odd Aloo
Tikki or Pakora, most snacks are still consumed in the bazaar because they are thought difficult to
make. They are not. In fact, they are quite simple—as you will see when you try out the recipes in
this chapter.

Reduced in size, these mini delights make excellent cocktail snacks.

Assisted by Nilesh Nadkarni

 JHINGA TIL TINKA
155

JHINGA TIL TINKA INGREDIENTS

(kg/2% lb Prawns
4jwain-flavoured prawns, coated with sesame seeds and spiced (medium size)
with mace and cardamom. Groundnut Oil to deep fry

The First Marination

PREPARATION
30g/5 tsp Garlic paste

THE PRAWNS: Shell, devein, wash and pat dry.

25g/4 tspGinger paste,
3g/'4 tsp White Pepper Powder
THE FIRST-MARINATION: Mix all the ingredients and rub the prawns
with this mixture. Keep aside for 30 minutes. Squeeze the prawns gently 3g/4tspYellow Chilli powder
to remove the excess moisture. Salteseas fe Mavenenaaa)
THE SECOND MARINATION: Hang yoghurt in fine muslin for 4 hours to
remove the whey and then whisk in a bowl. Grate cheese and mix with
The Second Marination
yoghurt. Add the remaining ingredients and mix well. Rub the
marinated prawns with this mixture and keep aside for 30 minutes. 120g/'4 cup Yoghurt’
60g/'4 cup Cheddar Cheese
THE SKEWERING: Skewer an equal number of prawns, without a gap, on
(semi-hard)
8 wooden sticks (6-inch long).
8g/1 Tbs Ajwain
THE COATING: Mix breadcrumbs with sesame seeds, roll the skewered 60ml/%4
cup Cream
prawns in the mixture and refrigerate for 15 minutes.
Cardamom powder
30g/3 Tbs Flour of
COOKING
Roasted Channa dal

Heat oil ina kadhai and deep fry the skewered prawns over medium heat The Coating
for 4-5 minutes. Remove and keep aside for 4-5 minutes. Return to
50g/'/3 cup Sesame seeds
kadhai and deep fry for 2-3 minutes.
100g/ 1 cup Breadcrumbs

TO SERVE
Serves: 4
Place a paper doiley on a silver platter, arrange the skewers on top and Preparation time: 5:45 hours
serve with Mint Chutney and lemon wedges. Cooking time: 10-12 minutes

Note: (i) The prawns can be kept aside after the first frying until ready to serve.

(ii) The Murgh Til Tinka is prepared from 12 chicken breasts (deboned and each cut
into 6 tikka) and cumin seeds are used instead of ajwain. The rest of the procedure is the
same.
 JAAN-E-MAN
156

INGREDIENTS JAAN-E-MAN
lkg/ 2% lb Chicken breasts
Ilitre/4
cups Milk fee chicken pieces, simmered in saffron and fennel-flavoured
4g/1 tsp Saffron milk, skewered, dipped in rice batter and deep fried to make an
10g/4 tsp Fennel
extraordinary snack.
10 Green Cardamom
5 Cloves PREPARATION
2 sticks Cinnamon (1-inch)
2Bay
Leaves—t™~*” THE CHICKEN: Clean, remove the skin, debone and cut into I-inch tikka.
Seasoning Boil milk in a handi, add the tikka,dnd the remaining ingredients, except
Groundnut
Oil todeep fry groundnut oil, and simmer over medium heat until tender. Remove the
tikka (but leave the coating on), strain and reserve the cooking liquor.
The Batter Refrigerate the tikka.
50g/'% cup Basmati Rice THE BATTER: Pick rice, wash in running water and soak for an hour.
32/4 tsp Fennel powder — Drain, put in a blender, add fennel powder, yellow chillies, salt and the
3g) 4tspYellow Chilli powder reserved liquor (approx 100ml/7 Tbs) and make a fine—but thick—
Sal
Sreyor. paste. Remove. Whisk yoghurt in a bowl, add the rice paste and mix
50g/10'4 tsp Yoghurt well.
THE SKEWERING: Skewer 4 chicken pieces, without a gap, on 4-inch
wooden sticks.

COOKING

Heat oil in a kadhai, dip the skewers in the batter and deep fry over
medium heat until lightly coloured. Remove and cool. Reheat oil and
deep fry over medium heat until light golden and crisp.

TO SERVE
Serves: 4
Preparation time: 1:45 hours Place a paper doiley on a platter, arrange the skewers in a pattern of
Cooking time: 10-12 minutes your choice and serve hot.

INGREDIENTS
CHAURASIA KATHI
8002/1%4 lb Spring Lamb
Undercut pay ‘herbal’ lamb masala rolled in a square Paratha—a meal-size
100g/7 Tbs Ghee snack.
60g/3 Tbs Fred Onion paste*
5g/1 tsp Garam Masala
30g/3 Tbs Flour of
PREPARATION
Roasted Channa dal
THE LAMB: Clean and cut into 4-inch cubes.
 GOOLAR KEBAB
157
THE VEGETABLES: Clean, wash and finely chop mint and coriander. 10g/2 Tbs Mint
THE MARINATION: Peel papaya, deseed, put ina blender and makea fine 10g/2
Coriander
Tbs
paste. Remove, add the remaining ingredients and mix well. Rub the 30ml/2 Tbs Lemon juice
lamb cubes with the mixture and keep aside for 2 hours. 8 Varqi Paratha (6”X6")**
THE PARATHA: Keep warm.
The Marination
60g/2 oz Raw Papaya
COOKING 30g/5 tsp Ginger paste
30g/5 tsp Garlic paste
Heat ghee in a handi, add the lamb cubes, alongwith the marinade, and
15g/ 1 Tbs Coriander powder
bhunno over low heat uritil tender. Add the fried onion paste, stir for 2
5g/1tsp Red Chilli powder
minutes, add garam masala and the flour of roasted gram, stir. Remove,
sprinkle mint, coriander and lemon juice, mix well. Divide into 8 equal Salt
portions. 30ml1/2 Tbs Lemon juice

ASSEMBLING

Place a portion of the cooked lamb along one edge of each Paratha and
roll. Secure with tooth-picks or cocktail sticks.

TO SERVE
Serves: 4
Place a paper doiley on a flat dish, arrange the rolls in a neat row and Preparation time: 2:45 hours
garnish with Kachchumbar***. Serve with Mint Chutney. Cooking time: 35 minutes

*See section on Pastes.

**See section on Breads.
***See section on Salads.

GOOLAR KEBAB INGREDIENTS

600g/ 1/3 lb Lamb Mince
Kashmiri snack of meatballs stuffed with a tangy chutney of raisins 75g/4cup Channa dal
and mint ‘n’ coriander. 4 Green Cardamom
4 Black Cardamom
6 Cloves
PREPARATION
2 sticks Cinnamon (I-inch)
THE LENTIL: Pick and wash in running water. 2Bay
Leaves”
Salt
THE MINCE: Put mince and dal in a handi, add the whole spices, salt and
2 Eggs
water (approx 720m1/3 cups), bring to a boil, cover and simmer until the
lentil is just cooked. Increase to high heat and bhunno until the liquid Groundnut
Oil to deep fry
has completely evaporated and the mixture has become dry. Remove, —Contirued
 ALOO TIKKI
158
eee

The Chutney cool, discard the whole spices and make a mince. Whisk eggs and knead
40g/24 cup Mint
into the mince. Divide into 24 equal portions, make balls and keep aside.
402/24, cup Coriander THE CHUTNEY: Clean and wash mint and coriander. Remove stems, wash,
4 Green Chillies slit and deseed green chillies. Remove the white coating on the inside
10g/4 tsp Orange rind
and finely chop orange rind. Put mint, coriander and green chillies in a
blender, add raisins and salt, make a paste. Remove, add mango powder,
50g/'/3 cup Raisins
orange rind and sugar, mix well. Divide into 24 equal portions.
Salt
THE STUFFING: Flatten the mince balls between the palms, place a
5g/ 1 tsp Mango powder
portion of the chutney in the middle of each and make balls again.
5p] 1'4 tsp Sugar
Refrigerate for 15 minutes.

COOKING
~

Heat oilina kadhaiand deep fry the stuffed balls over medium heat until
golden brown.

TO SERVE
Serves: 4
Preparation time: 1:35 hours
Cooking time: 4-5 minutes Place a paper doiley on a silver platter, arrange the Kebab on top and
for each set serve with lemon wedges.

Note: To make cocktail snack-size Goolar, make 48 mince balls and divide the filling
into 48 equal portions. The rest of the procedure is the same.

INGREDIENTS
ALOO TIKKI
lkg/2% |b Potatoes
50g/ 2 0z Cornflour yea patty stuffed with a variety—mince, lentils, white gram or
Suita. oo oe A, green peas (below)—
of fillings and then either shallow fried or deep
Ghee
shallow
to fry ried.

The Filling
150g/1 cup Green Peas PREPARATION
30g/2 Tbs Ghee
3g/1 tsp Cumin seeds THE POTATOES: Boil, cool, peel and grate. Add cornflour and salt, mix
20g/4 tsp-Coriander powder well. Divide into 12 equal portions and make balls.
5g/1tsp Red Chilii powder THE FILLING: Boil peas until cooked, drain. Heat ghee in a kadhai, add
cumin and saute over medium heat until it begins to crackle. Add peas
and stir for a minute. Then add the remaining ingredients and stir fora
minute. Cool and mash the peas. Divide into 12 equal portions.
SS Sessa
eee
PAKORA
ee ee
eeeeeeeEeEeEeEeEeESEeSEeEeEeEeEeEeeeeeSSSsSsSeEeeeeeee eeeeeee IY
THE STUFFING: Flatten each ball between the palms, place a portion of
the filling in the middle, make balls again and flatten into 34-inch thick
patties.
aR

COOKING

Heat ghee on a tawa, and shallow fry the Tikki over medium heat until
golden brown and crisp on both sides. Press with a spatula and remove.

TO SERVE
atte Yield: 12 .
Place a paper doiley ona silver platter. Arrange Tikki on top and serve Preparation time: 1:30 hours
with Mint Chutney and Saunth*. Cooking time: !0 minutes

*See section on Chutneys.

PAKORA INGREDIENTS
150g/5,0z Cauliflower
Neu of vegetable fritters, Pakora is made in some shape or size 150g/5 oz Potatoes
across the length and breadth of the Sub-continent. It is generally —_(medium size)
believed that the Multanis are the best purveyors of the art of making 100g/3!4 oz Onions
Pakora. They owe this reputation, we suspect, to the use of mustard oil. —_—(medium size)
That it is not uncommon to make a meal of it (with Phulka or bread) _—_—75g/3 oz Brinjals
merely underlines its popularity. So versatile is its batter that youcan _— (medium size)
make fritters of almost anything. Other than vegetables, Paneer is a —75g/3 oz Spinach
popular Pakora ingredient. The compulsive non-vegetarian has 4 Green Chillies’
confounded the predominantly vegetarian Indian by ‘creating’ chicken — Mustard Oil todeep fry _
and egg Pakora. The recipe below is for assorted vegetable Pakora. Be aiLAd, Vick ea
The Batter
250g/ 14 cups Gramflour
PREPARATION
2g/'/stsp Soda bi-carb
Sal ees
THE VEGETABLES: Wash and cut cauliflower into large florets (approx 5g/2 tsp Ajwain
24-inch). Peel, wash and cut potatoes and onions into roundels (approx
5g/1 tsp Red Chilli powder
1/6-inch thick). Wash and cut brinjals into roundels, discard the ends.
Remove stems and wash spinach leaves in running water. Wash, slit on
5g/
Pomegranate
134tsp seed
powder
one side and deseed green chillies. Immerse potatoes and brinjals in water.
THE BATTER: Sieve gramflour, soda bi-carb and salt together, add —Continued
ajwain, red chillies, pomegranate seed powder and enough water
(approx 200ml1/% cup) to make a batter of fritter consistency.
Sn
SAMOSA
Neen eee eee —————————————L———_

COOKING

Heat mustard oil in a kadhai to smoking point, reduce to medium heat,

dip the vegetable florets, roundels, leaves and chillies in the batter and
deep fry until light golden. Remove and cool. Reheat oil and deep fry
over moderately high heat until golden brown and crisp.

TO SERVE
Serves: 4
Preparation time: 30 minutes Place a paper doiley ona platter, arrange Pakora on top and serve with
Cooking time: 20 minutes Mint Chutney.

Note: The second frying is imperative. The best time to fry again is when ready to serve.
This enables the housewife to half-cook Pakora well in advance and produce the fritters
at very short notice.

INGREDIENTS
SAMOSA
300g 24 Ib Flour
Salt he Nation’s favourite tea-time snack, the Samosa, like the Aloo
60m1/4 Tbs Groundnut Oil Tikki, can be stuffed with a variety of fillings—mince, mixed
Flour to dust vegetables, lentils or spiced peas and potatoes (below).
Groundnut Oil to deep fry

The Filling PREPARATION

750g/5 cups Potatoes
250g/ 12/4 cups Green Peas
THE DOUGH: Sieve flour and salt together, make a bay, pour oil init and
50g/3 Fos Ghee
start mixing gradually. When the oil is fully mixed, add water (approx
90m1/6 Tbs) knead gently to make a semi-hard dough. cover with a
5g/1% tsp Cumin seeds
moist cloth and keep aside for 15 minutes. Divide into 6 equal portions
30g/3 Tbs Ginger
and make balls. Cover with a moist cloth.
Sg/ 1 tsp Red Chilli powder
THE FILLING: Peel, wash, cut potatoes into '4-inch cubes and iminerse in
Salt
water. Boil peas until cooked, drain. Scrape, wash and finely chop
FO Green Chillies
ginger. Remove stems, wash, slit, deseed and finely chop green chillies.
15g/5 tsp Pomegranate seed Clean, wash and finely chop coriander.
powder
Heat ghee in a kadhai, add cumin and saute over medium heat until it
20g/%3 cup Coriander
begins to crackle. Add ginger and saute for a minute. Then add potatoes,
red chillies and salt, bhunno for 5 minutes. Reduce to low heat, cover
and cook, stirring occasionally, until potatoes are tender—not mashed.
Now add the boiled peas and green chillies, stir until the liquid has
evaporated and the mixture is completely dry. Sprinkle pomegranate
seed powder and coriander, stir. Remove, cool and divide into 12 equal
portions.
een
 nda ee
THE STUFFING: Place the balls on a lightly floured surface, flatten each
ball with a rolling pin into a round disc (approx 8-inch diameter) and cut
into half. Stuff as follows: place a half flat‘on ti@°palm with the straight
edge along the forefinger (see photographs), dip the other forefinger in
water, line the edges, make a cone, stuff a portion ofthe filling in it and seal
the open end by pressing firmly. Sprinkle flour on a tray, arrange the
stuffed Samosa on it and keep aside until ready to fry.

COOKING

Heat oil in a kadhaiand deep fry Samosa over medium heat until golden
brown and crisp.

TO SERVE Yield: 12
——— —— $$ Preparation time: | hour
Place a paper doiley on a silver platter, arrange the Samosa on top and Cooking time: 7-8 minutes
serve with Mint Chutney and Saunth*. for each set

*See section on Chutneys.

MATHI INGREDIENTS
6002/141b Flour
jwain shares a unique ‘relationship’ with the Indian vegetarian Salt
snack—they are practically inseparable and very, very compatible. = 5g/2 tsp Ajwain _
This exotic spice is responsible for the fine aroma in the Mathi—a crisp
savoury laced with pepper. raed
 KACHORI
2 a SS SES SPT eS
ee

a ea EEnEnEREEeDENSEEE SSDS
pe
60ml1/4 Tbs Groundnut Oi!
240ml1/1 cup Milk
PREPARATION
J
SegS Ee
10g/ 1 Tbs Black Peppercorns
Groundnut
Qil todeep fry THE DOUGH: Sieve flour and salt together, add ajwain, mix,make a bay,
pour oil in it and start mixing gradually. When the oil is fully mixed, add
milk, knead to make a hard dough, cover with a moist cloth and keep
aside for 15 minutes. Divide into 40 equal portions, make balls and
flatten with a rolling pin into round discs (approx 3-inch diameter and
\/g-inch thick). Embed each disc with a peppercorn or two and prick
the entire surface with a fork.

COOKING

Heat ghee in a kadhai and deep fry over high heat for 90 seconds, reduce
to between low and medium heat and fry until golden brown and crisp.

TO SERVE
Yield: 40
Preparation time: 30 minutes
Cooking time: !5-18 minutes Place a paper doiley on a platter, arrange Mathi on top and serve with
for each set Aam ka Achaar (Mango Pickle)*.

*See section on Pickles.

INGREDIENTS
KACHORI
250g/2 cups Flour
1g/% tsp Soda bi-carb ot only is this crisp, stuffed delicacy Madhya Bharat’s (Central
Apinch Sat India’s) favourite snack, it is also a must at every wedding in the
75m1/5 Tbs Groundnut Oil region.
Ghee to deep fry

The Peethi
PREPARATION
60g) '/scup Urad dal (washed)
10g/2tsp Coriander powder THE DOUGH: Sieve flour, soda bi-carb and salt together, make a bay,
1S ee a pour oil in it and start mixing gradually. When the oil is fully mixed, add
3g/'4 tsp Red Chilli powder water (approx 100ml/7 Tbs) and knead to make a soft dough. Cover
Apinch Asafoetida with a moist cloth and keep aside for 15 minutes. Divide into 12 equal
Abi-carb
pinch Soda portions, make balls and cover with a moist cloth.
10g/4 tsp Arta (ifnecessary) THE PEETHI. Pick, wash dal in running water and soak for 30 minutes.
Drain, put in a blender and coarsely grind. Remove, add coriander, red
chillies, salt, asafoetida and soda bi-carb, mix well. (Add atta if the
Peethi is soft.) Divide into 12 equal portions.
ieee meme a
THE STUFFING: Flatten each ball between the palms, ensuring it is
thinner around the edges, place a portion of the Peethi in the middle,
enfold the Peethi and pinch off the excess dough to seal the edges (see
Photographs). Then flatten between the palms into discs (approx 2!4-
inch diameter).

COOKING

Heat ghee in a kadhai and deep fry Kachori over medium heat until
golden brown and crisp.

TO SERVE
Yield: 12
Preparation time: !:30 hours
Place a paper doiley ona silver platter, arrange Kachori on top and serve Cooking time: 10 minutes
with Saunth. for each set

DOSAI INGREDIENTS
225g/8 oa Parboiled Rice
he rice pancake that is synonymous with South Indian food. If one 75g/3
Basmati
02 Rice
dish has dominated the cuisine of the Southern half of the Sub-
continent it is the Dosai. So overpowering has been its influence that 22/4 tsp Fenugreek seeds
very often even people in the rest of India believe that the Southerner’s Salt
staple is Dosai-Sambhar. 80ml//3
cup Groundnut Oil

— Continued
PREPARATION
ee

THE RICE & LENTIL: Pick, wash in running water and soak alongwith
fenugreek seeds overnight.
A I SE ES EL EES SELES NE LE SLDLEED DDE ESL ELI DELETE ALLEL DAIL LLL, ELLE TLE LIEDDL EE OTE LEED,
MASALA DOSAI

THE BATTER: Put the soaked ingredients in a blender, add salt and water
(approx 50ml1/3 Tbs + | tsp) and make a fine paste. Remove to a large
bowl and keep aside for at least 5 hours.
THE TAWA: Peel an onion, cut into half, tie one half in muslin, dip in oil
and rub the surface of a pre-heated tawa with the flat side.

COOKING

Warm the tawa over low heat, spread a portion ofthe batter over almost
the entire surface by moving a ladle in concentric circles from the centre
going outwards (12-inch diameter). When the batter rises and little
perforations appear on the rapidly cooking pancake (approx 2 minutes)
sprinkle a little oil (approx 10ml1/1 Tbs) along the periphery and cook
until golden (lift on one side to see if the pancake is golden). Fold.

TO SERVE
Yield: §
Preparation time: 5:30 hours
Cooking time: 3-4 minutes Remove .o individual plates and serve with Sambhar* and Thengai
for each Dosai Thovial**,
*See section on South India.
**See section on Chutneys.

INGREDIENTS
MASALA DOSAI
350g/12 oz Dosai Batter*
45ml1/3 Tbs Groundnut Oil he Dosai can be stuffed with a variety offillings—potatoes and lamb
mince being the most popular.
The Filling
300g/2 cups Potatoes
PREPARATION
60m1/4 Tbs Groundnut Oil
4g/1
Mustard
tsp seeds THE VEGETABLES: Boil potatoes, cool, peel and mash. Peel, wash and
10g/1 Tbs Channa dal slice onions. Remove stems, wash, slit, deseed and finely chop greer
100g/24. cup Onions chillies. Wash curry leaves. Clean, wash and chop coriander.
4Green Chillies THE LENTIL: Pick, wash in running water and pat dry.
lg/% tsp Turmeric
THE CASHEWNUTS: Split. Heat oilin a kadhaiand deep fry over medium
Salt heat until golden brown. Remove.
15ml/1 Tbs Lemon juice
THE FILLING: Heat oil in a kadhai, add mustard seeds and stir over
12 Cashewnuts
medium heat until they begin to crackle. Add the dal, stir until light
Groundnut Oil to deep fry brown, add onions and saute until transparent. Then add green chillies,
cashewnuts
stir for a minute, add turmeric and salt, stir. Sprinkle lemon juice, stir,
10 Curry Léaves add potatoes and bhunno for 4-5 minutes. Now add cashewnuts, curry
20g/'3 cup Coriander leaves and coriander, stir. Adjust the seasoning. Divide into 4 equal
30g/2 Tbs Butter portions.
 URLA KAZHANGU BONDA

THE TAWA: Peel an onion, cut into half, tie one half in muslin, dip in oil
and rub the surface of a pre-heated tawa with the flat side.

COOKING

Warm the tawa over low heat, spread a portion of the batter over the
surface by moving a ladle in concentric circles from the middle going
outwards (12-inch diameter). When the batter rises and little
perforations appear on the rapidly cooking pancake, sprinkle a little oil
along the periphery and cook until golden brown (lift on one side to
see if the pancake is golden). Place a portion the filling in one half, top
with a knob of butter and fold the other half over.
Serves: 4
Preparation time: 25 minutes
TO SERVE (Plus time taken to prepare
batter)
Remove to individual plates and serve with Sambhar and Thengai Thovial. Cooking time: 25 minutes

Note: (i) FOR KHEEMA FILLING: Use 600g/ 1'41lb Lamb mince, !100ml/7 Tbs
Groundnut oil, 400g/2'’/scups Onions (chopped), 10g/1 Tbs Ginger paste, 10g/1 Tbs
Garlic paste, Sg/1 tsp Red Chilli powder, 3g/'4 tsp Turmeric, Salt, 220g/1 cup
Tomatoes (chopped), 2g/ '4 tsp Clove powder, 10 Curry leaves and 10g/ 1 Tbs Coriander
(chopped).
To cook, heat oil in kadhai, add onions and saute over medium heat until transparent.
Add the ginger and garlic pastes, saute until onions are light brown. Then add red
chillies, turmeric and salt, stir fora minute,add tomatoes and bhunno until the fat leaves
the masala. Now add mince, bhunno for 4-5 minutes, add clove powder, stir and bhunno
until the mince is cooked and the liquid, if any, has evaporated. Add curry leaves and
coriander, stir.
(ii) FOR EGG DOSAI: Break 2 or 3 eggs over the batter immediately after spreading it
on the tawa. The eggs will be ready about the same time as the Dosai.

*See recipe for Dosai in this section.

EE
EEE

URLA KAZHANGU BONDA INGREDIENTS

600g/4 cups Potatoes
picy potato-balls, dipped ina gramflour batter and deep fried—a 50g/%
Ghee cup
S perfect snack. 3g/34 tsp Mustard seeds
15g/1 Tbs Urad dal
15g/1
Channa
Tbs dal
PREPARATION 50g//1 cup Onions
3g/ tsp Turmeric
THE POTATOES: Boil,-cool, peel and mash. Salt:
THE LENTILS: Pick, wash in running water and pat dry.
i
 IDLI
166 SE
ae en ee ee eS SS SSS SSeS SS

100g/'4 cup Green Peas THE VEGETABLES: Peel, wash and finely chop onions. Boil peas until
8 Green Chillies cooked, drain. Remove stems, wash, slit, deseed and finely chop
20g/2.Tbs Ginger green chillies. Scrape, wash and finely chop ginger. Wash curry leaves.
Clean, wash and chop coriander.
10 Curry Leaves
202/13 cup Coriander THE CASHEWNUTS: Split.
45m1/3 Tbs Lemon juice THE MIXTURE: Heat ghee in a kadhai, add mustard seeds and the lentils,
8 Cashewnuts saute over medium heat until the lentils are light golden. Add onions,
Groundnut Oil to deep fry saute until transparent, add turmeric and salt, stir. Then add peas and
potatoes, bhunno for 4-5 minutes. Now add green chillies, ginger,
The Batter
curry leaves and coriander, stir for 3-4 minutes. Sprinkle lemon juice and
stir. Cool, divide into 8 equal portions, flatten between the palms,
200g/ |'/3 cups Gramflour
randomly place 2 cashewnut halves in each, make balls and refrigerate
A pinch Soda bi-carb
for 15 minutes.
Salt
THE BATTER: Sieve gramflour and soda bi-carb together, add salt and
water (approx 200ml/% cup) to make a batter of fritter consistency.

COOKING

Heat oil in a kadhai, dip potato balls in the batter and deep fry over
medium heat until golden brown.
|
TO SERVE
Yield: 8
Preparation time: 45 minutes
Cooking time: 8-10 minutes Place a paper doiley ona platter, arrange Bonda on top and serve witha
for each set chutney of your choice.

INGREDIENTS IDLI
350g/ 134 cups Parboiled Rice
150g/34 cup Urad dal «ystttames rice-cake, usually eaten for breakfast, with Sambhar anc
Sci
eee chutney or a knob of white butter.
Groundnut Oil to grease
moulds
PREPARATION

THE RICE: Put ina grinder and make a coarse powder. Wash carefully in
running water (ensure that the powder is not drained away) and soak for
10 minutes.
THE LENTIL: Pick, wash and soak for | hour. Drain, put in a blender
and make a fluffy (sponge-like) paste.
THE JDLI MIXTURE: Put the soaked rice flour in muslin, squeeze out the
 KANJEEVARAM IDLI
ee 167
excess moisture, mix with the lentil paste, add salt and keep in a warm
place for 6 hours.

COOKING

Grease the Jdli moulds, pour equal quantities of the mixture in each
and steam in a steamer or pressure cooker for 8-10 minutes. (To make
sure the /dli is cooked, poke the mixture with a needle; if the mixture
sticks, steam for a few minutes more. The needle must eventually come
out clean.)

TO SERVE Yield: 16
Preparation time: 8:15 hours
Demould, place /dli in 4 individual plates and serve with Sambhar*, _ Cooking time: 8-10 mirvtes
Thengai Thovial** and Mulagapodi***. for each set

Note: (i) It is always better to place a moist cloth on the moulds and then pour the
mixture—it facilitates demoulding.
(ii) Jdli moulds are easily available. If you cannot find a set, use darioles or katoris and
steam in a double boiler. The ideal alternative is an egg poacher.
*See section on South India.
**See section on Chutneys.
***See section on Masalas.

KANJEEVARAM IDLI INGREDIENTS

: , ’ ! 160g/6 oz Parboijed Rice
|Ganka famed for the finest silk sarees, ‘drapes’ its steamed 40g/1'%4 0z Basmati Rice .
tice-cakes with the same finesse as its weavers have draped 80g/3 0z Tuordal
generations of Indian women. VRE Gia aaa
80g/3 oz Channa dal
PREPARATION 5g/1'4 tsp Black Peppercoms
3g/ 1 tsp Cumin seeds
THE RICE & LENTILS: Pick, wash in running water and soak parboiled fas ae ee
5g/1 tsp Ginger powder
rice, rice and the three dals together for an hour. Drain, put ina blender
and make a rough paste. 100g/'%4 cup Ghee
THE CURRY LEAVES: Wash. sal}
THE /DLI MIXTURE: Mix all the ingredients with the rice and lentil paste |? Cut Leaves
and keep aside for 6 hours. Groundnut Oil to grease
moulds

COOKING —Continued

Grease the /dli moulds, pour equal quantities of the mixture in each
 MEDU VADAI
SS TESS SS SS SS SC SS
168
and steam in a steamer or pressure cooker for 8-10 minutes. (To make
sure the /dli is cooked, poke the mixture with a needle; if the mixture
sticks, steam for a few minutes more. The needle must eventually come
out clean.)

Yield: 16 TO SERVE
Preparation time: 7:20 hours
Cooking time: 8-10 minutes Demould, place Jdli in 4 individual plates and serve with Sambhar*,
for each set Thengai Thovial** and Mulagapodi**.

*See section on South India.

**See section on Chutneys
***See section on Masalas.

INGREDIENTS
MEDU VADAI
300g/t'4 cups Urad dal
5g/1%4 tsp Black Peppercorns
doughnut-shaped savoury spiced with black peppercorns—a
popular tea-time snack.
AAsafoetida.__
pinch
Salt
5 Curry Leaves PREPARATION
Groundnut
Oil to deep fry
THE LENTIL: Pick, wash in running water and soak for an hour. Drain.
THE PEPPER: Pound with a pestle.
THE ASAFOETIDA: Dissolve in Sml/1 tsp of water.
THE CURRY LEAVES: Wash.
THE BATTER: Put the lentil in the blender and make a fluffy batter,
adding a little water at a time (80ml/!4 cup in all). Transfer to a large
bowl, add pepper, asafoetida, salt and curry leaves, mix well.

COOKING

Heat oil in a kadhai, moisten a spatula or steak-turner, place 2 portions

of the batter at a time on it, flatten into a round shape (approx 2-inch
diameter) with a moist hand, make a doughnut-like hole with the index
finger and invert the spatula deftly over the kadhai. Deep fry over
medium heat until light golden. Remove, keep aside for 2 minutes,
return to the kadhai and deep fry until crisp and golden brown.
oe intratepeaiesnilippt assess than cacesclaaclaestRc etd tei acetenici tootseen eee
Yield: 16 TO SERVE
Preparation time: 1:15 hours
Cooking time: 30 minutes Remove to a flat dish and serve with Sambhar*.

*See section on South India.

ge ee ee eae
a
 169

PICKLES, CHUTNEYS
oy
MURABBA
With Nipendar P. Singh

y fondest childhood memories are of dining at my Grandmother’s—she is still the best

cook in the family—eating Paratha with Aam-ka-Achaar or Mango Pickle. These
simple meals were culinary events for me for two reasons: one, the quality of the pickle,
and the peppercorn and ajwain laced Paratha. Two, | wasn’t allowed to eat pickles at
home because of my tonsils, which weren’t removed until much later. Once, my mother walked
into the kitchen store just as I had ‘stolen’some mango pickle. I quickly hid the piece in my pocket.
She suspected what I had been up to but when she questioned me, I denied eating any pickle. There
was no way | could escape my punishment though. A tell-tale smudge of mustard colour—thanks
to the oil—began to spread on my knickers. The thrashing that followed didn’t hurt as much as the
giant padlock that was posted on the store’s door!

N.P. SinGH: Another leading light among the present crop

of bright young chefs, Singh is the Chef of Taj Group’s /e
de Kashmir, Paris—surely the most coveted assignment his
company has on offer for the cooks of his generation. E
 PICKLES, CHUTNEYS & MURABBA
170

There is nothing unusual about the popular Achaar- Paratha combination. In fact, ina land where
the refrigerator was a luxury until a decade ago, pickles, carefully matured in earthenware jars,
were a ‘multi-purpose’ food—relish, accompaniment and entree. The quickest meal a housewife
could ‘whip up’ for unexpected visitors was—you have probably guessed it—pickle served with
Paratha, Roti, even a slice of conventional bread. Pickles are, therefore, never dismissed as mere
accompaniments. They require all the cooking skills that go into the making of exotic de1icacies.
In any event, pickles, chutneys and murabba (sweet preserves) are an intrinsic part of our daily diet
and play an important role in our cuisine. Eaten at the right time of the day and during the
appropriate season, they tickle the palate, revive a sagging appetite and even cure stomach and
digestive ailments. Some, especially the murabba, are veritable tonics.
This may surprise many, but in most households, not everyone is allowed to make pickles and
murabba. In an entire family, just a handful of women are believed to possess a ‘hand’ capable of
pickling. An antiseptically clean pair of hands is not enough. It is believed that most hands set offa
chemical reaction, which encourages fungal growth ruining the preserves almost immediately.
Such people are not even allowed to remove the preserves from the jars. After the initial maturing
(in the sun), the jars are kept in a dark place as light ‘affects’ the preserves. Pickles and murabba
are never, never removed from the jar after sundown—in ‘unnatural’ light. I, for one, wouldn’t
dare dismiss this as superstition or hecus-pocus. I have seen strange things happen to preserves
touched by ‘unworthy hands’.
It is best to mature pickles in glazed earthenware jars. The inert porcelain prevents any chemical
reaction. For maturing it is important to secure the opening of the jar with muslin—this allows the
pickle to ‘breathe’ and excess moisture to evaporate.
Pickling is generally done in mustard oil, vinegar or lemon juice, murabba are preserved in sugar
syrup. Pickles matured in vinegar and lemon juice have a short shelf life—usually a fortnight.
Those preserved in mustard oil, with the notable exception of meat pickles, and murabba, can last
for years. In fact, like good wines, they mature and become better with the years—up toa point, of
course. Then their quality starts deteriorating before eventually becoming unfit for consumption.
Chutneys are of twe types—those that are preserved, like pickles and murabba, and those that are
fresily prepared everyday. The Southern chutneys in this chapter are all of the latter variety.
The pickle and murabba recipes here have, as is the tradition, been handed downto my Mother by
my Grandmother. They have been tried, tested and standardised by my ‘co-authors’, who join me
in dedicating this chapter to my only living grandparent. The North Indian chutneys are
exclusively from my Mother’s collection.

Assisted by Sujata Kanianthra

 JHINGA ACHAAR
17]

JHINGA ACHAAR HY GREDIENS

lkg/2'%4 lb Prawns
prawn pickle that is tempting enough to be consumed asanentree, _—(medium size)
Resist or the stomach will go for a six. It is only a relish. 50g/3Tbs Ginger paste
50g/3 Tbs Garlic paste
10g/2 tsp Red Chilli powder
PREPARATION 3g/4
Turmeric
tsp
‘ Salt
THE PRAWNS: Clean, devein, wash and pat dry. 800ml/3% cups Mustard Oil
THE MARINATION: Mix red chillies, turmeric and salt with halfeachof 5Cardamom
Black
tne ginger and garlic pastes, rub the prawns with this marinade. Keep — {9 Green Gaidamom
aside for 30 minutes. 2 Bay Leaves
THE ONIONS: Peel, wash and grate. 5g/1 tsp Asafoetida
THE PRESERVE: In a stainless steel handi, dissolve jaggery in vinegar. 58/134
Kalonji
tsp
5g/
Fenugreek
1% tsp seeds
200g/1'4 cups Onions
COOKING 5g/1 tsp Black Cardamom
powder
Heat oil in a kadhai to a smoking point, reduce to medium heat __10g/2 tsp Green Cardamom
and deep fry the marinated prawns for 2 minutes. Remove prawnsand _ powder
strain the oil. Heat the strained oil in a separate kadhai, add black _10g/2 tsp Fennel powder
cardamom, green cardamom, bay leaves, asafoetida, kalonji and 59/1 tsp Cumin powder _
fenugreek seeds, saute over medium heat for 30 seconds, add onionsand —_350mi/114
cups Malt Vinegar
fry until golden brown. Then add the remaining ginger and garlic pastes, 150g/5 oz Jaggery PIE
stir for 2 minutes, add the remaining spices, stir for a minute, add the
preserve, bring to a boil, then cook over high heat for 2-3 minutes. Now
add the fried prawns and cook for 2-3 minutes. Remove and cool.

MATURING

Transfer the contents of the kadhai to a sterilised earthenware or glass

jar. Secure muslin around the opening of the jarandkeepinthesunora Preparation time: | hour
warm place for 2 days. Remove the muslin and cover with a lid. Cooking time: 20 minutes
Consume within 60 days. Maturing time: 2 days

MURGH ACHAAR INGREDIENTS

Ikg/2% lb Chicken
sharp chicken pickle, its taste is enhanced.by pounded mustardand —50g/3 Tbs Ginger paste
fenugreek seeds. aia ret rn.
AAM KA ACHAAR

SS
50g/3 Tbs Garlic paste
10g/2 tsp Red Chilli powder PREPARATION
Sg/ 1 tsp Turmeric
Salt THE CHICKEN: Remove the skin, debone and cut into 14-inch Kkka.
800ml/ 37/3 cups Mustard Oil (Chicken legs are preferable because the meat from legs will became
5g/1 tsp Asafoetida more succulent as the pickle matures.)
200g/ 1% cups Onions THE MARINATION: Mix red chillies, turmeric and salt with half each of
5g/ |tsp Black Cardamom the ginger and garlic pastes, rub the tikka with this marinade. Keep aside
powder for 30 minutes.
5p/ 1 tsp Green Cardamom THE ONIONS: Peel, wash and finely chop.
powder —
20g/4 tsp Fennel powder
10g/1 Tbs Black Cumin seeds COOKING
$g/\l tsp Fenugreek seeds
10g/2'4 tsp Mustard seeds Heat oil in a kadhai to a smoking point, reduce to medium heat
3 Bay Leaves and deep fry the marinated tikka for 2-3 minutes. Remove chicken and
EEE —————————__=__——

400m1/ 124 cups Malt Vinegar strain the oil. Heat the strained oil in a separate kadhai, add asafoetida,
stir for 15 seconds, add onions and deep fry until golden brown. Then
add the remaining ginger and garlic pastes, stir for 2 minutes, add the
remaining spices and stir for a minute. Now add the vinegar, bring to a
boil, add the fried chicken and cook over high heat for 3-4 minutes.
Remove and cool.

MATURING

Transfer the contents of the kadhai to a sterilised earthenware or glass

Preparation time: | hour jar, secure muslin around the opening of the jarand leave it in the sun or
Cooking time: 15 minutes in a warm place for 2 days. Remove the muslin and cover with a lid.
Maturing time: 2 days Consume within 60 days.
ee
Note: (i) Ensure all moisture is removed from the tikka before pickling. The presence of
moisture induces fungal growth and reduces shelf life.
(ii) For Chaamp (lamb chops) Achaar, follow the recipe above, except use 100g/3'4 oz
each of the ginger and garlic pastes and | litre/4 cups of malt vinegar. Also, the lamb
must be boiled, until tender, before marination.

(iii) For Pork, Wild Boar and Venison pickles, the meat has to be boiled over an
extended period—until tender. The rest of the recipe is the same as above.

INGREDIENTS
AAM KA ACHAAR
ikg/ 24 lb Raw Mangoes
400ml/ 17/4 cups Mustard Oil
\f isa common sight to see pickle jars in the sun outside every Indian
home in summer—the housewives are making mango pickle. Every
60g/'4 cup Fennel seeds —
home has its own recipe, the one below is the most popular.
i a EE ee
ws

a
BHARVAN LAL MIRCH
a ee ,
A
ee SS Re
173
40g/3 Tbs Fenugreek seeds
PREPARATION Salt
ep nemeneerees
10g/2 tsp Turmeric
THE MANGOES: Wash, pat dry, cut into I-inch long pieces and remove 20g/4 tsp Red Chilli powder
the kernel.
THE MUSTARD OIL: Heat in a kadhai to a smoking point, remove and
cool.
THE MASALA: Pound fennel and fenugreek with a pestle, add salt,
turmeric, red chillies and half the mustard oil to make a coarse paste.

ASSEMBLING

Put the mango pieces in a large bowl, pour the masala and mix
thoroughly.

MATURING

Transfer the contents of the bowl to a sterilised earthenware or glass jar,

pour the remaining oil, secure muslin around the opening of the jar
and leave it in the sun for 4 days. Remove the muslin and cover witha Preparation time: 30 minutes
lid. Maturing time: 4 days

BHARVAN LAL MIRCH INGREDIENTS

Ikg/2% lb Whole Red
A pickle of stuffed red chillies. Chillies (fresh)
300m1/'% cup Mustard Oil
60g/'4 cup Fennel seeds
PREPARATION 40g/3 Tbs Fenugreek seeds
Salt
THE CHILLIES: Wash, pat dry and slit on one side.
THE MUSTARD OIL: Heat in a kadhai to a smoking point, remove and
cool.
THE FILLING. Pound fennel and fenugreek with a pestle. Add salt and
half the mustard oil to make a coarse paste.
THE STUFFING: Stuff the chillies with the filling.

MATURING

Transfer the chillies to a sterilised earthenware or glass jar, pour the

remaining oil, secure muslin around the opening of the jarand leave it in Preparation time: 30 minutcs
the sun for 4 days. Remove the muslin and cover with a lid. Maturing time: 4 days
NI-MBU ACHAAR

INGREDIENTS
NIMBU ACHAAR
Ikg/2%4 lb Lemons
452/3 Tbs Cumin powder A stuffed lemon pickle—the perfect digestive.
Salt
20g/4 tsp Red Chilli powder
250g/1'%4 cups Sugar PREPARATION

THE LEMONS: Wash, pat dry and make deep cross-cuts (for stuffing
masala) on each.
THE MASALA: Mix cumin powder, salt and red chillies in a bowl.
THE STUFFING: Fill the cross-cut incisions in the lemons with the masala
and transfer to a sterilised earthenware or glass jar. Pour the remaining
masala on top and secure muslin around the opening of tne jar.

MATURING

Keep thé jar in the sun or in a warm place for 5 days. On the sixth day,
uncover the jar and sprinkle the pickle with sugar, shake the jar well,
P. eparation t'me: 30 minutes secure it again and keep in the sun or ina warm place for another 5 days.
Maturing time: 10 days Remove the muslin and cover with a lid.

INGREDIENTS
KHATTA-MEETHA ACHAAR
400g/ 14 oz Cauliflower
300g/11
oz Turnips mixed-vegetable relish, spiced with cumin and garam masala and
300g/ 11 oz Carrots sweetened with jaggery or sugar.
325ml/ 1% cups Mustard Oil
60g/'/scup Onions PREPARATION
15g/24 tsp Ginger paste
10g/!% tsp Garlic paste — THE VEGETABLES: Wash and cut cauliflower into florets. Peel, wash, cut
25g/5 tsp Garam
Masala turnips into halves and then make medium thick slices (!4-inch). Peel,
20g/4 tsp Red Chilli powder wash and cut carrots into batons. Peel, wash and finely chop onions.
25g/8 tsp Cumin seeds Spread cauliflower, turnips and carrots on a tray and keep in the sun or
30g/7!4 tsp Mustard seeds in a warm place for drying (2-3 days).
Sil 2s te ee THE CUMIN: Pound with a pestle.
200g/ 1 cup Sugar or Jaggery THE PRESERVE: Dissolve sugar or jaggery in vinegar.
200ml/3 cup White Vinegar
5g/1 tsp Acetic Acid
COOKING
eee

Heat oil in a kadhai to a smoking point, reduce to medium heat,

add onions, saute until light golden, add ginger paste and garlic paste,
ee
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kz Mart:

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stir until onions are golden brown. Add the dry spices and salt, stir, ad¢
the dried vegetables and stir. Then add the preserve and cook the
vegetables for 5 minutes. Remove and cool. Sprinkle acetic acid and stir.

MATURING

Transfer the contents of the kadhai to a sterilised earthenware or glass

Preparation time: 20 minutes
Jar, secure muslin around the opening of the jarand keep in the sun or in
Cooking time: 10 minutes
a warm place for 3 days. Remove the muslin and cover with a lid. Maturing time: 3 days

AAM KI CHUTNEY INGREDIENTS

Ikg/2'4 Ib Raw Mangoes
delectable mango relish—the favourite chutney of millions of Ikg/5
Sugar cups
Indians. 100g/24 cup Onions
50g/3 Tbs Ginger paste
203/314
tsp Garlic paste —
PREPARATION
5g/1 tsp Garam Masala
10g/2 tsp Red Chill powder
THE MANGOES: Peel and grate.
THE VEGETABLES: Peel, wash and grate onions. Mix with the ginger and 3g/'4 tsp Cinnamon powder
garlic pastes, put in muslin and squeeze out the juice. Discard the
200 ml/34 Cup White Vinegar
residue.
Sallpseeianiiiaaseiieeinie.
THE ALMONDS: Blanch and peel.
20 Almonds

|
THE CARDAMOM: Peel and discard the skins. 100g/%4
cup Raisins

COOKING

Mix sugar with mangoes in a kadhai and cook over medium heat for 10
minutes. Add the onion-ginger-garlicjuice, stir, add garam masala, red
chillies, cardamom seeds and cinnamon powder, stir and continue to
cook until the mixture attains the consistency of a jam. Then add
vinegar and salt, cook for 2-3 minutes and remove. Add almonds and
raisins, stir and cool.

MATURING
Preparation time: 30 minutes
Transfer the contents of the kKadhai to a sterilised jar, cover with a lid and Cooking time: 30 minutes
leave it to mature for 2 days. Maturing time: 2 days
 GAJJAR KI CHUTNEY
176
INGREDIENTS GAJJAR KI CHUTNEY
Ikg/2'%4 lb Carrots
y Naas ‘n’ sour carrot chutney with raisins—makes an excellent
700g/3'4 cups Sugar
sandwich spread.
250ml/1
cup White Vinegar
10g/ 134 tsp Ginger paste
10g/ 134 tsp Garlic paste PREPARATION
20/4 tsp Red Chilli powder
Salt THE CARROTS: Peel, wash and grate. Keep in the sun for 30 minutes to
10g/2 tsp Cumin powder | draw out the moisture.
20g/4 tsp Garam Masala ~ THE PASTES: Put the ginger and garlic pastes in muslin and squeeze out
200g/1'/3
cups Raisins the juice. Discard the residue.

COOKING

Mix sugar with vinegar in a kadhai and boil until it dissolves. Add
carrots, the ginger-garlic juice and the remaining ingredients, except
raisins, and simmer until the liquid has evaporated. Then add raisins
and simmer until the carrots are absolutely dry. Remove and cool.

MATURING
Preparation time: 40 minutes
Cooking time: 25 minutes Transfer the contents of the kadhaito a sterilised jar, cover witha lid and
Maturing time: 2 days leave it to mature for 2 days.

INGREDIENTS
SOOKHE KALE ANGUR KA MURABBA
Ikg/2'% lb Sultanas
I litre/4 cups White Vinegar tangy tribute to Nature’s Candy—easy to make, easy on the palate
100g/%4
cup Sugar and yet unique in every way.
20g/4 tsp Red Chilli powder
10g/2 tsp Fennel powder
PREPARATION
10g/2 tsp Ginger powder _
Sg/1tspBlack Cardamom THE SULTANAS: Remove the stems, wash and pat dry.
powder
10g/2 tsp Cumin powder THE PRESERVE: In a stainless steel handi, dissolve sugar in the vinegar.
Salt Add the remaining ingredients and stir.

COOKING
eee

Simmer the preserve in the stainless steel handi for 2-3 minutes, add
sultanas and bring to a boil. Then simmer, stirring constantly to prevent
 AAMLE KA MURABBA
7
sticking, until the liquid has evaporated (approx 15 minutes). Remove
and cool.

MATURING

Transfer the contents of the handi toa sterilised earthenware or glass jar,
secure muslin around the opening of the jar and leave it to mature Preparation time:15minutes
for 1 day. Remove the muslin and cover with a lid. Consume within — Cooking time: 18 minutes
15 days. Maturing time: | day

AAMLE KA MURABBA INGRAUENAS

Ikg/2% lb Aamla (large size)
ich in Vitamin ‘C’, this murabba not only keeps the winter blues at — Salt
bay but also provides ‘cool’ in the summer. Aninvaluable preserve. _1.5kg/7'4 cups Sugar
1 Lemon

PREPARATION

THE AAMLA: Wash and soak in salted water for 2 days to make the skin
firm or else the skin would rupture when boiled. Drain, prick with a
fork, add water (enough to cover) and boil for 3-4 minutes. Drain.
THE LEMON: Wash and cut into quarters.
THE SYRUP: Boil water (approx 500m1/2 cups) in a handi, add sugar and
lemon, bring to a boil and remove the scum.

COOKING

Bring the syrup to a boil and continue to cook until it is of a two-string

consistency. Add the boiled aamla and cook for 2-3 minutes. Remove
and cool.

MATURING

Transfer the contents of the handi to a sterilised earthenware or glass _ Preparation time: 30minutes
jar, secure muslin around the opening of the jar and leave it to mature — Cooking time: 3 minutes
for 2 days. Remove the muslin and cover with a lid. Maturing time: 2 days
 GAJJAR KA MURABBA TS a a
cen ET
178

INGREDIENTS GAJJAR KA MURABBA

Ikg/2'4 Ib Red Carrots
(medium size) L is India’s belief—-strongly supported by our age-old schools of
Ikg/5cups Sugar medicine, Ayurvedic and Unani—that this murabba can help
3g/'4 tsp Acetic Acid ‘preserve’ eye-sight, and very often improve it if it has deteriorated.

PREPARATION

THE CARROTS: Peel, wash and cut into 14-inch pieces. Prick the pieces
with a fork.
THE SYRUP: Boil water (approx | litre/4 cups) ina handi, add sugar and
acetic acid, bring to a boil and remove the scum.

COOKING

Bring the syrup to a boil, add carrots, bring to boil again and cook for I$
minutes. Remove, cool, cover and store overnight. The following day,
boil the murabba for 15 minutes, remove, cool, cover and store
overnight. Repeat the procedure on the third day—boil until the syrup is
of a one-string consistency.

Preparation time: 35 minutes MATURING

Cooking time: 45 minutes f ue :
(15 minutes a day over 3 ‘Transfer the contents of the handi to a sterilised earthenware or glass jar,
days) secure muslin around the opening of the jar and leave it to mature forat
Maturing time: 2 days least 2 days. Remove the muslin and cover with a lid.

Note: Blanched and peeled almonds and green cardamom are optional. They may be
added before transferring to the jar.

INGREDIENTS ADRAK KA MURABBA

Ikg/ 2% lb Ginger ;
Skeiacipesdaar ginger preserve that always soothes the stomach, especially after a
ea ‘spicy’ and ‘heavy’ Indian meal. Consume in very small quantity—
Sg/2 tspAcetic Acid ~-—*SuSt a few pieces.

PREPARATION

THE GINGER: Scrape, wash and make % -inch thick slices.

THE LEMON: Wash and cut into quarters.
t

KER! KI LAUNJEE
~~ 129
THE SYRUP: Boil water (approx 500ml1/2 cups) in a handi, add sugar,
lemon and half the acetic acid, bring to a boil and remove the scum.

COOKING

Put ginger in a handi, add water, bring to a boil, add the remaining acetic
acid and continue to boil for 30 minutes. Drain. Add the syrup, bring to
a boil and cook until the syrup is of a one-string consistency (approx 30
minutes). Cool and store overnight. The following day, boil the
murabba for 15 minutes.

MATURING

Transfer the contents of the handi to a sterilised earthenware or glass jar, _ Preparation time: 35 minutes
secure muslin around the opening of the jar and leave it to mature for 2 — Cooking time: | hour
days. Remove the muslin and cover with a lid. Maturing time: 2 days.

KERI KI LAUNJEE INGREDIENTS

900g/2 Ib Raw Mangoes
piquant raw-mango delicacy, spiced with fennel and kalonji, 225ml/1
cup Mustard Oil.
-\cooked in mustard oil.
10g/4 tsp Fennel seeds
PREPARATION 29/14 tsp Kalonji
5g/ 1 tsp Coriander powder

THE MANGOES: Peel, cut lengthwise into quarters and remove the _ 5g/! tsp Red Chilli powder
kernel. 3g/'4 tsp Turmeric

THE JAGGERY: Pound with a pestle. Salt

250g/1%4 cups Jaggery
a

COOKING
a
Heat oil in a kadhai to a smoking point, reduce to medium heat,
add fenugreek and saute until it begins to change colour (approx ie)
seconds). Add fennel, kalonji, coriander, red chillies, turmeric and salt,
stir, add mangoes and stir for 5 minutes. Then add jaggery and water
(approx 120ml1/'4 cup), bring’ to a boil, cover and simmer, stirring
occasionally, for 7-8 minutes. Remove and cool.
nn,———EE

TO SERVE
PoS
a7 t- A Preparation time: 35 minutes
Remove to a dish and serve as an accompaniment. Cooking time: 20 minutes
AeA aE SS a a aaa an
a
 SAUNTH
180

INGREDIENTS SAUNTH
ne
50g/ 10 tsp Mango powder
r (Sweet Chut y) {
250g/14% cups Sugaor Jaggery
15g/5 tsp Cumin seeds oe that is made from mango powder, it is usually served with
Biaciie
Setsp Black
5g/1 alae
Salt
snacks.
6g/2 tsp Black Peppercorns
8g/2 tsp Black Cardamom PREPARATION
seeds
10g/2 tsp Red Chilli powder
THE MANGO POWDER: Sieve to break up the lumps.
Salt
THE REMAINING SPICES: Broil cumin seeds ona tawa, remove and cool.
Icolour
drop Red
Pound black salt with a pestle. Put both ina blender, add peppercorns
1 Mango (medium size)
and cardamom seeds, make a fine powder. Remove toa clean, dry bowl,
add red chillies and salt, mix well.
THE MANGO: Peel, halve, stone and dice.

COOKING

Put water (approx 240ml/1 cup) in a handi, add mango powder and
whisk to prevent lumps from forming. Then cook over medium heat,
stirring constantly, until it acquires a sauce-like consistency. Add the
Yield: 400g/ 14 oz remaining ingredients, except mango, and stir until the sugardissolves.
Preparation time: 15 minutes | Now simmer for 5-6 minutes. Remove, force through a soup strainer into
Cooking time: 15 minutes a separate handi and cool. Add the mango dices, stir and refrigerate.

Note: (i) Saunth can be garnished with grapes, bananas and/or dry fruits instead of
mangoes.
(ii) It has a shelf life of 4-5 days in the refrigerator—in a sterilised container—but without
the mangoes or any other fresh fruit.
 COCONUT CHUTNEY
181

South Indian Chut

THENGAT THOVIYAL PC REDIEN LS
200g/2'4 cups Coconut
(Coconut Chutney) 3 Green Chillies
5g/ 14 tsp Ginger
PREPARATION 20g/2 Tbs Channa dal
Groundnut Oil to fry
THE COCONUT: Remove the brown skin and grate. Salt
THE VEGETABLES: Remove stems, wash, slit and deseed green chillies, >Curry Leaves
Scrape and wash ginger. Wash curry leaves.
; ‘ : ae ‘ The Tempering
THE LENTIL: Pick, wash in running water and pat dry. Heat oilina kadhai
and fry over medium heat until light golden. Drain. ee
THE PASTE: Mix green chillies, ginger, the fried dal and salt with the Se
grated coconut, put in a blender, add coconut water (approx !00m1/7 Be a
Tbs) and make a fine paste.
THE TEMPERING: Heat oil in a kadhai, add red chillies and stir over
medium heat for a few seconds. Add mustard seeds and stir until they
begin to crackle.
THE CHUTNEY: Transfer the paste to a glass bowl, add curry leaves, pour _Yield: approx 350g/% |b
on the tempering and mix well. Refrigerate. Preparation time:30 minutes

Note: The Coconut Chutney can also be made with roasted gram instead of fried channa
dal.

INGREDIENTS
TAKKALI THOVIYAL
200g/ 1 cup Tomatoes
(Tomato Chutney) 30m1/2 Tbs Groundnut Oil
20g/2 Tbs Channa dal
PREPARATION 120g/24 cup Onions
3Chillies
Whole Red
THE TOMATOES: Wash and roughly chop. 3g/4
Turmeric
tsp
A pinch Asafoetida
THE LENTIL: Pick, wash in running water and pat dry.
Salt
THE REMAINING VEGETABLES: Peel, wash and chop onions. Wash curry 5 Curry Leaves
leaves.
—————————— a
 ONION CHUTNEY
1a2 ee
The Tempering
10m1/2 tsp Groundnut Oil COOKING
2 Whole Red Chillies
3g/% tsp Mustard seeds Heat oil in a kadhai, add channa dal, saute over medium heat until light
golden, add onions and saute until transparent. Add red chillies,
turmeric, asafoetida and salt, stir, add tomatoes and bhunno until
mashed. Remove, cool, put in a blender, add water (90m1/6 Tbs) and
make a coarse paste. Transfer to a glass bowl and add curry leaves.
To prepare the tempering, heat oil in a frying pan, add red chillies and
Yield: approx 350g/% |b stir over medium heat for a few seconds. Add mustard seeds and stir
Preparation time: |5 minutes until they begin to crackle. Pour the tempering over the chutney and mix
Cooking time: 20 minutes well. Serve at room temperature.

INGREDIENTS
VENGAYAM THOVIAYAL
225g/ 1/3 cups Onions
75ml1/5 Tbs Groundnut Oil
(Onion Chutney)
100g/% cup Urad dal
A Asafoetida
pinch PREPARATION
20g/3% tsp Tamarind pulp*
3Chillies
Whole Red THE ONIONS: Peel, wash and chop.
iiia THE LENTIL: Pick, wash in running water and pat dry.
THE TAMARIND: Dissolve in 20m1/4 tsp of water.
The Tempering
10ml/2 tsp Groundnut Oil
2Chiilies
Whole Red COOKING
3g/%
Mustard
tsp seeds _
Heat oil in a kadhai, add dal and saute over medium heat until light
golden. Add asafoetida, stir, add onions and saute until transparent.
Reduce to low heat, add tamarind, red chillies and salt, stir for 5
minutes. Remove and cool. Transfer to a blender, add water (approx
75mi/'/3 cup) and make a rough paste. (The chutney should be crunchy
anu so the lentil should not be mashed in the blender). Remove to a glass
bowl.
To prepare the tempering, heat oil in a frying pan, add red chillies and
Yield: approx 350g/% |b stir over medium heat for a few seconds. Add mustard seeds and stir
Preparation time: !(0 minutes until they begin to crackle. Pour the tempering over the chutney and mix
Cooking time: 20 minutes well. Serve at room temperature.

—
SL ee

*See section on Tamarind.

 183

ROTI
(Breads)
With Mohammed Rahees & ShishirSharma

oti or Bread may be the most basic of all foods, but more has been written about the
making of breads than any other aspect of cooking. If one wants to simplify things, roti is
nothing more than grain, water and salt, kneaded and baked. Yet there is a lot to the art of
baking breads. The variety is infinite and each bread has its own individuality. And none
more than the Indian breads, which are mostly unleavened and can be baked, shallow fried or deep
fried. Again each variety may be eaten plain or stuffed.
In Northern and Central India, wheat is the more popular grain and consequently people eat roti: —
in its myriad forms—in preference to rice. To be sure, it is easier and much quicker to make roti
than it is to make the Western-style breads. Though maize (makki), millet Gowar), milo (bajra),
lentils (da/s) and even rice are used to make some form ofroti, it is atta (whole-wheat flour) which is
the basic ingredient for making Indian breads. And, as Indian breads are usually made from atta,
grain, they are nutritionally superior to their cousins elsewhere.

MouammMaD Rauess: He probably took his first steps on

the road to becoming a chef at about the same time that he
began toddling around the floor in the courtyard of his
family home in Lucknow! At a very tender age he was
inducted into the innermost secrets of bread-making by his
uncle, Mohammad Imtiaz, whose laudable influence in
Rahees’ work is clearly discernible.
 ROTI (BREADS)
184
The methods of making Indian breads areas varied as there are varieties. Any ofthe following may
be used to make them:
Tandoor: The breads—Naan, Paratha, Khameeri Roti—made in this clay oven are the most
popular.
Concave Tawa: commonly used in the household to make Phulka, Paratha, Makki-ki- Roti, Bajre-
ki- Roti etc.
Kadai: used to fry Poori, Bhatura, Kachori, etc.
Conventional Oven: used only by professional bakers—usually Muslims—to bake Bakarkhani,
Sheermal, etc.

SHISHIR SHARMA: The other man on our Roti team, this

young man’s star is obviously on the ascendant. From one
of the many junior chefs at a coffee shop to the prized
position of Chef of Haveli at the Tay Mahal Hotel, New
Delhi, in three short years sums up Sharma's success story.
Today, he is Indian Chef at the Taj Samudra, Colombo.
 TANDOORI ROTI
185

TANDOORI ROTI INGREDIENTS

550g/4'%4 cups Atta
opens common unleavened whole-wheat flour bread, consumed by
Salt
millions of North Indians at every meal.
Alta to dust
Ghee to grease baking tray
PREPARATION

THE ATTA: Sieve with salt into a paraat.

THE DOUGH: Make a bay in the sieved atta, pour water (approx
350ml1/ 14 cups) in it and start mixing gradually. When fully mixed,
knead to make a soft dough, cover with a moist cloth and keep aside for
30 minutes. Divide into 8 equal portions, make balls, dust with atta,
cover and keep aside for 5 minutes.
THE OVEN: Pre-heat to 375°F.

SS

COOKING

Flatten each ball between the palms to makea round disc (approx 6-inch
diameter), place the Roti on a gaddi (cushioned pad), stick inside a
moderately hot tandoor and bake for 2 minutes. In the pre-heated oven,
place on a greased baking tray and bake for 5-6 minutes.
' Yield: 8
TO SERVE Preparation time:
40 minutes
Cooking time:
In Tandoor: 2 minutes
Serve as soon as it is removed from the tandoor or oven. In Oven: 5-6 minutes

Note: To make Phulka and Chappati flatten the balls with a rolling pin into round discs
(4inch and 8-inch diameter, respectively). Both are cooked ona heated tawa. The
Phulka is puffed over an open fire (it cannot be done onanelectric range). The Chappati,
by pressing the edge of the disc. However, it will not puff as much as the Phulka.

ALOO PARATHA INGREDIENTS

A 400g/ 14 0z Atta-dough*
shallow-fried atta bread with a filling of spiced potatoes. 120g/%4
cup Butter
Atta to dust

PREPARATION The Filling

175g/6 oz Potatoes
THE POTATOES: Boil, cool, peel and grate. 20g/2 Tbs Ginger
THE REMAINING VEGETABLES: Scrape, wash and chop ginger. Remove Eerninied
BATTI

4 Green Chillies stems, wash. slit, deseed and chop green chillies. Clean, wash and chop
10g/2
Coriander
Tbs coriander.
3g/1
Pomegranate
tsp seeds THE FILLING: Mix all the ingredients in a bowl. Divide into 4 equal
5g/ |tsp Red Chilli powder portions.
Sah
er THE PARA THA: Divide the dough into4 equal portions, make balls, cover
with a moist cloth and keep aside for 5 minutes. Place the balls on a
lightly floured surface and flatten each with a rolling pin into round discs
(approx 4-inch diameter). Place a portion of the filling in the middle,
enfold the filling and pinch off the excess dough to seal the edges. Then
flatten again with a rolling pin(approx 8-inch diameter).

COOKING

Place Paratha on a heated tawa and half-bake, turning over once. Melt
30g/2 Tbs of butter all around and shallow fry both sides over low heat
until golden brown.

Yield: 4 TO SERVE
Preparation time: 20 minutes
Cooking time: 15 minutes Remove and serve immediately with yoghurt and pickle.

Note: To make Kheema Paratha follow the above recipe, using 175g/6 oz lamb mince,
50g/% cup ghee, 15g/2'4 tsp ginger paste, 15g/2' tsp garlic paste, 5g/1 tsp red chilli
powder, 4 green chillies (chopped), 100g/!4 cup tomatoes (chopped), 10g/2 Tbs
coriander (chopped) and salt.
To prepare the filling, heat ghee in a kadhai, add the ginger paste, garlic paste and red
chillies, saute over medium heat for 30 seconds, add green chillies and tomatoes, bhunno
until the fat leaves the masala. Add the mince and bhunno over low heat until cooked
and dry. Sprinkle coriander and stir. Adjust the seasoning, cool and divide into 4 equal
portions.
*See recipe for Tandoori Roti.

INGREDIENTS
BATTI
500g/4 cups Atta
5g/1 tsp Baking powder _ atti was the desert—Thar—warrior’s staff of life. Legend says that
Sait ae er re the bread was semi-prepared, buried in the sand and the ___location
carefully marked. If supply lines were cut off during war, Batti—by now
380g/ I’*Acups Desi Ghee
fully baked in the heat of the sand—were dug out and depressed on one
(Clarified Butter only)
side to crack open the crust. Clarified butter—desi ghee—was then
Desi Ghee (Clarified Butter
poured in copious quantities. Iu crises, it provided more than the
only) to grease baking tray
requisite nourishment. Times have changed. Chefs have devised
easier—perhaps even better—ways of making this unleavened whole-
 KHAMEERI ROTI
sopGSE SLTGRLLek a la A Ul tei ee RO 187
wheat bread. For example, they now make use of baking powder to
make it lighter. Also, they have started using ovens to bake Batti.

Se
PREPARATION

THE ATTA: Sieve with baking powder and salt into a paraat.
THE DOUGH: Make a bay in the sieved atta, pour water (approx 330ml/
1';cups) in it and start mixing gradually. When fully mixed, knead to
make a dough, cover with a moist cloth and keep aside for 10 minutes.
Add 80g/'4 cup of ghee and incorporate gradually. When fully mixed,
knead to make a soft dough, cover and keep aside for 10 minutes. Divide
into 16 equal portions, make balls, cover and keep aside for t0 minutes.
Flatten the balls slightly to make pedha (approx 2!4-inch diameter),
cover and keep aside until ready to bake.
THE OVEN: Pre-heat to 350° F.

COOKING

Grease a baking tray with ghee, arrange the pedha on it and bake in the
pre-heated oven for 16-18 minutes.

TO SERVE
: Yield: 16
Remove, depress on one side to crack open the crust, pour on melted —_preparationtime: 40minutes
ghee with a spoon and serve immediately. Cooking titme: 16-18 minutes

Note: Ideally, Batti is baked in hot charcoal ash. The ash is dusted off before serving.

KHAMEERI ROTI INGREDIENTS

4 ; 500g/4 cups Atta
hameeri means leavened, which makes this a rare whole-wheat ter
bread. Indians still prefer to use a combination of yoghurt, atta and Ro), small block Yeast
sugar (2:1:1)* to make the flour rise—it provides a disti ict flavour. The (fresh)
recipe below uses yeast. Pee RETer
Ghee to grease baking tray
PREPARATION
— Continued.
THE ATTA: Sieve with salt into a paraat.
THE YEAST: Dissolve in 100m1/7 Tbs of warm water.
 THE DOUGH: Make a bay in the sieved atta, pour water (approx
300ml1/1!4 cups) in it and start mixing gradually. When fully mixed,
knead to make a hard dough, cover witha moist cloth and keep aside for
15 minutes. Add the dissolved yeast and incorporate gradually. When
fully mixed, knead until the dough is not sticky. Cover and keep ina
warm place for 30 minutes to allow the dough to rise. Divide into 8
portions, make balls, dust with atta, cover and keep aside for 5 minutes.
THE OVEN: Pre-heat to 475° F.

COOKING
Flatten each ball between the palms to make a round disc (approx 9-inch
diameter), place the Roti on a gaddi (cushioned pad), stick inside a
moderately hot tandoor and bake for 2-3 minutes. In the pre-heated
oven, place on a greased baking tray and bake for 4-5 minutes.
Yield: &
Preparation time: 1:20 hours
Cooking time: TO SERVE
In Tandoor: 2-3 minutes
In Oven: 4-5 minutes Serve as soon as it is removed from the tandoor or oven.

*The mixture is kept overnight to make khameer, which is then used instead of yeast.
Use S0g/2 02.

INGREDIENTS
POORI
500g/4 cups Atta
Salt hat Roti is to the North, Pooriis to the people of Central India—it
Groundnut Oil to apply on
is unleavened puffed bread, deep-fried in a kadhai.
pedha and to deep fry

PREPARATION

THE ATTA: Sieve with salt into a paraat.

THE DOUGH: Make a bay in the sieved atta, pour water (approx 250m1/ 1
cup) in itand start mixing gradually. When fully mixed, knead to makea
dough, cover with a moist cloth and keep aside for 30 minutes. Divide
into 20 equal portions, make pedha, apply a little oil on both sides of the
pedha and flatten each witha rolling pin into round discs (approx 4inch
diameter).

COOKING

Heat oil in a kadhai and deep fry the Poori until golden brown, turning
once to ensure it puffs up.

mE
 NAAN

Yield: 20
TO SERVE
Preparation time: 40 minutes
Cooking time: | minute
Serve as they are removed from the kadhai. for each set

NAAN INGREDIENTS
500g/4 cups Flour
simple—but delicious—unleavened flour bread, garnished with
Salt
kalonji and melon seeds.
Ig/%4 tsp Soda bi-carb,
5g/1 tsp Baking powder |
PREPARATION | Egg
10g/2'4 tsp Sugar
THE FLOUR: Sieve with salt, soda bi-carb and baking powder into a 25g/2 Tbs Yoghurt
paraat. 50ml/3
Tbs Milk
THE EGG MIXTURE: Break the egg in a bowl, add sugar, yoghurt and 25ml1/5 tsp Groundnut Oil’
milk, whisk. Atiatodut
THE DOUGH: Make a bay in the sieved flour, pour water (approx
200ml/% cup + 4 tsp) in it and start mixing gradually. When fully 3g/
Kalonji
|tsp
mixed, knead to make a dough. Add the egg mixture and incorporate 5g/134 tsp Melon seeds
gradually. When fuily mixed, knead to make a soft—but smooth— 30g/2 Tbs Butter
dough (it should not stick to the fingers), cover with a moist cloth and
keep aside for 10 minutes. Then add oil, knead and punch the dough,
cover with a moist cloth and keep aside for 2 hours to allow the dough
to rise.
Divide into 6 equal portions, make balls and place on a lightly floured
surface. Sprinkle kalonji and melon seeds, flatten the balls slightly to
make pedha, cover and keep aside for 5 minutes. Flatten each pedha
between the palms to make a round disc and then stretch on one side in
the shape of an elongated oval.
THE OVEN: Pre-heat to 375°F.

COOKING

Place the Naan ona gaddi (cushioned pad), stick inside a moderately hot
tandoor and bake for 3 minutes. In the pre-heated oven, place on a
greased baking tray and bake for 10 minutes.

Yield: 6
TO SERVE Preparation time: 2:30 hours
Cooking time:
Apply butter on Naan as soon as it is removed from the tandoor or oven In Tandoor: 3 minutes
and serve immediately. In Oven: \0 rainutes
 BHATURA
190

INGREDIENTS BHATURA
400g/ 14 oz Flour
deep-fried flour and semolina bread, commonly served with
100g/4 oz Semolina
Chholey (white gram).
1g/ 4 tsp Soda bi-carb
3g/ 4 tsp Baking powder
Salt PREPARATION
25g/2 Tbs Yoghurt
10g/2'4 tsp Sugar THE FLOUR: Sieve with semolina, soda bi-carb, baking powder and salt
20g/5 tsp Ghee into.a paraat.
Groundnut Oil to grease THE YOGHURT MIXTURE: Whisk together with sugar.
surface and to deep fry THE DOUGH: Make a bay in the sieved flour, pour water (approx
240ml1/1 cup) and the yoghurt mixture in it, start mixing gradually.
When fully mixed, knead to make a duugh, cover witha moist cloth and
keep aside for 10 minutes. Add melted ghee and incorporate gradually.
When fully mixed, knead to make a soft dough, cover witha moist cloth
and keep aside for 50 minutes. Divide the dough into 15 equal portions,
make balls and place on a lightly greased surface. Cover and keep aside.

COOKING

Heat oil in a kadhai to smoking point, reduce to medium heat, flatten

each ball between lightly oiled palms to make a round disc (approx 5-
inch diameter) and deep fry until golden brown, turning once to ensure it
puffs up.

Yield: 15
Preparation time: |:20 hours TO SERVE
Cooking time: | minute for
each Bhatura Serve as they are removed from the kadhai.

INGREDIENTS
KERALA PARATHA
450g/11b Flour
A pinch Soda bi-carb
flaky paratha from the Malabar coast—a delightful contribution to
the expansive world of Breads.
2 Eggs
150m1/74 cup Milk
10g/ 24 tsp Sugar PREPARATION
Salt
60m1/4 Tbs Groundnut Oil THE FLOUR: Sieve with soda bi-carb into a paraat.
100g/7 Tbs Butter THE EGG & MILK MIXTURE: Break the eggs in a bowl, add milk, sugar,
—EEEEE——————EE
Flour to dust salt and oil, whisk.
Ghee to shallow fry
THE DOUGH: Make a bay in the sieved flour, pour the egg and milk
 KERALA PARATHA
CREE SL Sinsa = sl cen ae cRNA 19]
mixture in it and start mixing gradually. When fully mixed, knead to
make a soft dough, cover with a moist cloth and keep aside for 30
minutes.
Divide the dough into 6 equal portions and make balls. Flatten each
with a rolling pin into a round disc. Grease the rolling surface with oil,
place the flattened dough and stretch evenly on all sides until it is very
thin (approx 15-inch diameter). Apply melted butter over the entire
surface, dust with flour, hold from two ends and gather ensuring there
are many folds. Place the dough on the table and roll to make a pedha
(see photographs) and then flatten slightly. Keep aside for 5 minutes.
Flatten each pedha with a rolling pin into a round disc (approx 9-inch
diameter), dusting with flour while rolling.

COOKING

Place Paratha ona heated tawa and half-bake, turning over once. Pour
melted ghee all round and shallow fry both sides over low heat until
golden brown.

Yield: 6
TO SERVE Preparation time: 50 minutes
Cooking time: 4-5 minutes
Remove and serve immediately. for each Paratha
 BAKARKHANI
192
INGREDIENTS BAKARKHANI
500g/4 cups Flour
rare leavened Indian bread, Bakarkhani is popular with the
5g/1 tsp Baking powder —
(~\% Muslims of the Deccan.
Salt
250ml/1 cup Milk
20g/5 tsp Sugar PREPARATION
2 drops Vetivier
8g/'4 small block Yeast (fresh) THE FLOUR: Sieve with baking powder and salt into a paraat.
150¢/24 cup Desi Ghee THE MILK: Dissolve the sugar in warm milk, add vetivier and stir.
(Clarified Butter only) or
THE YEAST: Dissolve in warm water (approx 120m1/'% cup).
White Butter
20g/3
Almonds
Tbs THE ALMONDS: Blanch, cool, remove the skin and cut into slivers.
15g/5 tsp Raisins Soak in water alongwith raisins and sunflower seeds. Drain.
10g/ 1 Tbs Sunflower seeds THE DOUGH: Make a bay in the sieved flour, pour the milk and the
Flour to dust dissolved yeast in it, start mixing gradually. When fully mixed, knead to
Desi Ghee (Clarified Butter make a dough. Cover witha moist cloth and keep aside for 10 minutes.
only) or White Butter to grease Add the melted ghee and incorporate gradually. When fully mixed,
tray and brush the bread knead to make a soft dough. Then add the almonds, raisins and
sunflower seeds, knead, cover and keep in a warm place for 30 minutes
to allow the dough to rise. Divide into 12 equal portions, make balls,
dust with flour, cover and keep aside for 10 minutes. Place the balls ona
lightly floured surface and flatten each with a rolling pin into round
discs (approx 6-inch diameter). Prick the entire surface with a fork.
THE OVEN: Pre-heat to 350°F.

COOKING

Grease a baking tray with ghee (or butter), arrange the discs on it and
bake in the pre-heated oven for 7-8 minutes.

Yield: 12 TO SERVE
Preparation time: 1:35 hours
Cooking time: 7-8 minutes Brush Bakarkhani with ghee (or butter) as soon as it is removed from the
for each set oven and serve immediately.

INGREDIENTS
SHEERMAL
500g/4 cups Flour
Salt Mie answer to the Hyderabadi Bakarkhani, Sheermal
is a rich bread, its quality judged by the amount of ghee
430m1/13%4
cups Milk
incorporated in the dough. The Master Chefs can knead equal
10g/2'4
tsp Sugar quantities of flour, milk and ghee.
 . VARQI PARATHA
Seah a PEAS a PSA PSPSPS
eee
eee
2 drops Vetivier
PREPARATION 225g/ 1 cup Desi Ghee
ee
eee eeee ef (Clarified Butter only) or
THE FLOUR: Sieve with salt into a paraat. White Butter
THE MILK: Dissolve the sugarin 400ml/ 124 cups of warm milk. reserve Flour to dust
the rest to dissolve saffron. Add vetivier and stir. lg/2 tsp Saffron
THE DOUGH: Make a bay in the sieved flour, pour the milk init and start Desi Ghee (Clarified Butter
mixing gradually. When fully mixed, knead to make a dough, cover with only) or White Buttertogrease
tray and brush the bread
a moist cloth and keep aside for 10 minutes. Add the melted ghee (or
butter) and incorporate gradually. When fully mixed, knead to make a
soft dough, cover and keep aside for 10 minutes. Divide into 12 equal
portions, make balls, dust with flour, cover and keep aside for 10
minutes. Place the balls ona lightly floured surface and flatten each with
a rolling pin into round discs (approx 7-inch diameter). Prick the entire
surface with a fork.
THE SAFFRON: Dissolve in the reserved milk, which must be warm.
THE OVEN: Pre-heat to 350°F.

COOKING

Grease a baking tray with ghee (or butter), arrange the discs on it and
bake in the pre-heated oven for 4 minutes. Remove, brush immediately
with saffron, return to the oven and bake for 3-4 minutes.

TO SERVE Yield: 12
Preparation time: !:30 hours
Brush Sheermal with ghee (or butter) as soon as it is removed from the Cooking time: 8-9 minutes
oven and serve immediately. for each set

VARQI PARATHA INGREDIENTS

500g/4 cups Flour
his flaky, fried bread of the Nawabs of Avadh is much more than a Salt
mere accompaniment—it is a meal in itself.
250ml/I
cup Milk
10g/214tsp Sugar
PREPARATION 2 drops Vetivier
180g/ 6'4 oz Desi Ghee
THE FLOUR: Sieve with salt into a paraat. (Clarified Butter only) or
White Butter
THE MILK: Dissolve the sugar in warm milk, add vetivier and stir.
THE DOUGH: Make a bay in the sieved flour, pour the milk and water —Continued

(approx 120ml/'4 cup) into it, start mixing gradually. When fully
SS ST I a a LISS EEL LET SII ADLE DED LLEB ELD LAL DLL LI LLL LCL DEALT LL LELEED ALRELATED,
 VARQI PARATHA
194

Flour to dust mixed, kncad to make a dough, cover with a moist cloth and keep aside
Desi Ghee (Clarified Butter for 10 minutes. Add two-thirds of tne melted ghee (or butter) and
only) to shallow fry incorporate gradually. When fully mixed, knead to make a soft dough,
cover and keep aside for 15 minutes. Place the dough ona lightly floured
surface and flatten with a rolling pin into a rectangular shape. Apply
one-fourth of the remaining ghee (or butter) evenly over the rolled-out
dough, dust with flour, fold one end and then the other to make 3
folds. Cover and refrigerate for 10 minutes. Repeat the process—rolling,
applying fat, dusting, folding and refrigerating—thrice. Remove from
the refrigerator, place on the floured surface, flatten into a rectangle
(approx 4-inch thick) and make discs (5-inch diameter) with a round
cutter. Then make 3 criss-cross incisions (approx !4-inch) evenly spaced
on the surface of each disc. Place the discs on individual sheets of butter
paper and refrigerate until ready to serve. (The longer you refrigerate
it—not more than 8-10 hours, though—the more distinct will become
the varq or flakes.)

COOKING

Melt ghee—not butter—on a heated tawa and shallow fry both sides
over low heat until light golden.

Yield: 12
Preparation time: 2:15 hours TO SERVE
Cooking time: 8-10 minutes
for each Paratha Remove and serve immediately.

Note: To avoid wastage, cut the Vargi into squares or triangles.

 JALEBI PARATHA
195

JALEBI PARATHA INGREDIENTS

Alpate exotic fennel-flavoured multi-layered bread has its origins in 500g/4 cups Flour
rural Avadh. It was accorded its rightful place in the ‘Pantheon’ of Salt
classic Indian Breads by the Chefs of Nawab Dara. The Nawab was 250ml/1
cup Milk
Prime Minister in the Court of that supreme gourmet, Wajid Ali Shah. 1802/6!4 oz Desi Ghee
(Clarified Butter only) or
White Butter
PREPARATION 10g/3 tsp Fennel
Flour to dust
THE FLOUR: Sieve with salt into a paraat. Desi Ghee (Clarified Butter
THE FENNEL: Pound with a pestle. only) to shallow fry

THE DOUGH: Make a bay in the sieved flour, pour the milk and water
(approx 120ml/'% cup) into it, start mixing gradually. When fully
mixed, knead to make a dough, cover with a moist cloth and keep aside
for 10 minutes. Add two-thirds of the melted ghee (or butter) and
incorporate gradually. When fully mixed, knead to make a soft dough.
Then add the pounded fennel, knead, cover and keep aside for 10
minutes. Divide into 12 equal portions, make balls, dust with flour,
cover and keep aside for 10 minutes. Place the balls on a lightly floured
surface and flatten each with a rolling pin into round discs (approx 8-
inch diameter). Apply 5g/ 1 tsp of melted ghee (or butter) evenly over the
discs and dust with flour.
Make a radial cut with a knife and starting with one end of the cut, roll
the discs firmly into conical shapes (see photographs). Hold each cone
between thumb and forefinger, half an inch above the base, and make
spiral movements to compress the rest of the cone to make a pedha. (Do
not press to flatten the pedha.) Refrigerate for 4 hours. Remove, press
the pedha, place ona lightly floured surface and flatten witha rolling pin
into discs (approx 8-inch diameter). Place the discs on individual sheets
of butter paper and refrigerate.
 JALEBI PARATHA
196

Yield: 12
Preparation time: 5 hours TO SERVE
Cooking time: 8-10 minutes
for each Paratha Remove and serve immediately.

COOKING

Melt ghee on a heated tawa and shallow fry both sides over low heat
until light golden. ,
 197

APPENDICES

Masalas

GARAM MASALA

I f spices are the basis of Indian cooking, the blending of these spices to make a garam masala or
‘hot spices’ is the essence of it. The use of a solitary spice or herb is all the rest of the world,
particularly the West, can ‘cope’ with. There seems to be a fear of using more than one spice.
Which is why Westerners find the use of a melange of spices in Indian cookery incomprehensible.
To us, each spice in the melange has a specific purpose to perform. To go into the details of each
spice is beyond the scope of this book, leave alone this chapter. Suffice it to say that it is important
to be a good masalchi before one can become a good chef. It is advisable to try out various
combinations of spices fearlessly. Before that, however, a clear understanding of each and every
spice is imperative. Accordingly, the proportions of spices can be changed as the seasons change.
For example, in the hot summer months, reduce the quantity of mace and nutmeg—they can give a
nosebleed.
There are as many versions of the garam masala as there are chefs. However, in general, some
garam masala are chilli hot (those with cloves and pepper), while others use only aromatic spices
(cinnamon, mace, nutmeg, cardamom, etc). Garam masala is used sparingly or it will put the ‘body
on fire’. It is almost always introduced toward the end of cooking a delicacy. Often it is used as a
garnish—sprinkled over cooked food to provide aromatic flavouring at the time of service.
The art of blending garam masala involves grinding or pounding a combination of dried spices. All
the spices are roasted in the oven (or under the salamander) before they are ground into a fine
powder. It is important that the spices be blended freshly.
If you are using a grinder, it is better to sun-dry the spices instead of roasting them. The reason is
very simple. When pounded with a pestle, the heat dissipates. In the grinder, on the other hand,
there is no ‘outlet’ for the heat emitted by the grinding. If the spices are broiied, it is likely that the
garam masala will be ‘over-done’ and darker. The same holds true for the other masala.
 GARAM MASALA
198

ERED GARAM MASALA I

200g/7 oz Cumin seeds
60g/2 oz Coriander seeds
45g/ 1% oz Black Cardamom PREPARATION
35g/1'% oz Black Peppercorns
30g/1 oz Green Cardamom Put all the ; ingredients ina é mortarand
a pound witha nite
pestle to make3 a fine
30g/1 oz Ginger powder — powder. Sieve and store in a sterilised, dry and airtight container.
20sticks Cinnamon (1-inch)
20g/%4
Clovesoz
20g/34 oz Mace
15g/'4
Leaves
oz Bay
2 Nutmeg

Yield: approx 450g/1 |b Note: This blend is ideally suited for meat preparations.

INGREDIENTS GARAM MASALA II

90g/3 oz Cumin seeds
758/24
o7Black Cardamom
seeds PREPARATION
75g/2'4 oz Black Peppercorns
45g/1'4 ozGreenCardamom _ Put all the ingredients, except ginger powder, in a mortar and pound
30g/1 oz Coriander seeds with a pestle to make a fine powder. Transfer to a clean, dry bowl, add
30g/1 oz Fennel seeds ginger powder and mix well. Sieve and store in a sterilised, dry and
30g/34 02 Cloves. airtight container.
20 sticks Cinnamon (I-inch)
20g/%40z Mace—™”
20g/% 0z Black Cumin seeds
15g/'4 oz Bay Leaves
15g/'%4 oz Dry Rose petals
1Sg/'A oz Ginger powder
3 Nutmeg
—EEE=Ee=E=EeEeE=E=EsSeE=Sea=E=a=Sa=SSaSaS=aqNl_EeE=S=SaQ™hAEanh™>>=ES~=oOloO™—~eEeEe=—{j————EN—y—~—woe™—w_—n—E—=C===*=*==a=&{={={{{{{a@a[{q_z_=a__=_=_—_—_—__———>

Yield: approx 450g/1 Jb Note: This masala is for Dum Pukht, Avadh, Punjabi and Rajasthani cuisines.

steer densi fst ne nse srmapeenanaaesnauepaspse ees

 AROMATIC GARAM MASALA
199

AROMATIC GARAM MASALA INGREDIENTS

175g/6 oz Green Cardamom
125g/4'4
oz Cumin seeds _
PREPARATION 125g/ 44 oz Black Peppercorns
20 sticks Cinnamon (l-inch)
Put all the ingredients in a mortar and pound witha pestle to make a fine 20g/%
Cloves
oz
powder. Sieve and store in a sterilised, dry and airtight container. 2 Nutmeg

Note: This blend is used in mildly-spiced gravies. Yield: approx 450g/1 lb

CHAAT MASALA INGREDIENTS

65g/2% oz Cumin seeds
65g/2!4 oz Black Peppercorns
PREPARATION 60g/2 oz Black Salt (pound,
if using a grinder)
Put all the ingredients, except mango powder, salt, ginger powder 30g/1 oz Dry Mint leaves
and yellow chilli powder, in a mortar and pound with a pestle to makea 5g/2 tsp Ajwain
fine powder. Transfer to a clean, dry bowl, add the remaining 5g/1 tsp Asafoetida (pound,
ingredients and mix well Sieve and store ina sterilised, dry and airtight if using a grinder)
container. 4g/ 34 tsp Tartric (pound, if
using a grinder)
150g/ 5% oz Mango powder
60g/2 oz Salt
20g/% oz Ginger powder
20g/ 34 oz Yellow Chilli powder

Note: The use of this masala requires caution. Excess will certainly ruin the dish. Used in Yield: approx 450g/1 Ib
small quantities, it can add immeasurably to the flavour.

TANDOORI CHAAT MASALA INGREDIENTS

50g/ 134 oz Cumin seeds
50g/ 134 oz Black Peppercoms
PREPARATION 50g) 134 oz Black Salt (pound,
if using a grinder)
Put all the ingredients, except mango powder, salt, ginger powder and 30g/1 oz Dry Mint leaves
yellow chilli powder, in a mortar and pound with a pestle to make a fine
 DUM KA MASALA
200
20g/%4 oz Fenugreek powder. Transfer to a clean, dry bowl, add the remaining ingredients
(Kasoori Methi) and mix well. Sieve and store ina sterilised, dry and airtight container.
30 Green Cardamom
15 Cloves
5 sticks Cinnamon (1-inch)
5g/2 tsp Ajwain
5g/] tsp Asafoetida (pound,
if using a grinder)
49/ % tsp Tartric (pound, if
using a grinder)
2g/% tsp Mace
125g/4'4 oz Mango pawder
50g/1%4 oz Salt
20g/%4 oz Ginger powder
20g/ 34 oz Yellow Chilli powder

Yield: approx 450g/1 Ib Note: Like Chaat Masala, the Tandoori Chaat Masala must be used in small quantities
and not indiscriminately.

INGREDIENTS
DUM KA MASALA
45g/1'4 oz Fennel seeds
452/1'4 oz Ginger powder
20g/ % oz Green Cardamom PREPARATION
20g/% oz Black Cardamom
Put all the ingredients in a mortar and pound witha pestle to make a fine
powder. Sieve and store in a sterilised, dry and airtight container.

Yield: approx 125g/'4 |b Note: This masala is used in very small quantities—usually a pinch—after the dish has
been cooked and before it is put on dum. That is, before you seal the handi with a lid. It
adds to the aroma.

INGREDIENTS
DHANSAK MASALA
452/14 oz Fenugreek
(Kasoori Methi)
45g/1'% oz Cloves PREPARATION
45g/ 1% oz Black Cardamom
Put all the ingredients in a mortar and pound with a pestle to makea fine
Yield: approx 125g/'% |b powder. Sieve and store in a sterilised, dry and airtight container.
 SAMBHAR MASALA
201

SAMBHAR MASALA INGREDIENTS

120g/4'% oz Coriarder seeds
80g/2%4 oz Cumin seeds
PREPARATION 30g/1 oz Black Peppercorns
30g/1 oz Mustard seeds
THE LENTILS: Pick, wash the dals together in running water and pat dry. 30g/1 oz Fenugreek seeds
Heat oil in a kadhai and fry the lentils over medium heat until light 20 Whole Red Chillies
golden. Transfer the dals to an absorbent paper napkin to remove excess 30g/1 oz Turmeric powder
fat. Cool. 10g/2 tsp Garlic powder —
THE ASAFOETIDA: Reheat the oil in which the lentils were fried and fry 60g/2 oz Channa dal
asafoetida over medium heat until it swells up. Transfer to an absorbent 60g/2 oz Urad dal
paper napkin to remove excess fat. Cool and then break it up into little 10g/2 tsp Asafoetida
pieces. Groundnut Oil to fry
THE MASALA: Put all the ingredients, except turmeric and garlic
powder, in a mortar and pound with a pestle to make a fine powder.
Transfer to a clean, dry bowl, add the remaining ingredients and mix
well. Sieve and store in a sterilised, dry and airtight container. Yield: approx 450g/1! Ib

MULAGAPODI INGREDIENTS
20 Whole Red Chillies
5g/1
Asafoetida
tsp
PREPARATION 100g/'%4cup Channa dal
100g/'%4cup Urad dal
THE LENTILS: Pick, wash in running water and pat dry. 10g/2 tsp Sesame seeds
Sesame seed oil to frye
Salt
COOKING

Heat oil in a kadhai, add asafoetida and stir over low heat until it swells.
Remove the asafoetida, add the dals and stir until golden brown.
Remove the dals, add the red chillies and stir until crisp, remove. Broil
the sesame seeds on a tawa until they stop popping.
Put the fried lentils ina grinder and make a coarse powder, remove. Put
the fried red chillies, asafoetida and salt in the grinder and make a coarse
powder, remove. Put the broiled sesame seeds in the grinderand makea
coarse powder. Mix all the powders. Store in a sterilised, dry and
airtight container. Yield: approx 250g/9 oz

Note: Add a spoon of clarified butter or sesame seed oil with every spoon of Mu/agapodi
to reduce its pungency.
—— —
202

Gravies
he success of an Indian banquet lies in the extensive variety of gravies served. Only a hack
would allow the dishes—vegetarian and non-vegetarian—to taste the same. It reflects a lack of
interest and imagination. Even simple fare can be made tasty and interesting witha slight variation
of spices and herbs in the gravies. The hallmark of a good chef is his ability to create different
aromas, hues and flavours.
The purpose ofthis chapter is not to make you reliant on these basic gravies. It is to enable you to
first strengthen the base and then let your artistic talent come to the fore. Let your imagination run
riot and create gravies that will make the epicure want to chew his fingers. I repeat: Do Not follow
the recipes blindly and cook everything in these basic gravies.

INGREDIENTS
150g/34 cup Ghee
BASIC GRAVY I
Whole Garam masala
5 Green Cardamom PREPARATION
! Black Cardamom
5 Cloves
THE YOGHURT: Whisk in a bowl.
1 Stick Cinnamon (l-inch)
1 Bay Leaf
A pinch Mace
COOKING
250g/ 1 cup Boiled Onion paste*
30g/5 tsp Ginger paste
30g/5 tsp Garlic paste
Heat ghee in a handi, add whole garam masala and saute over medium
heat until it begins to crackle. Add boiled onion paste and saute for 2
10z/2 tsp Red Chilli powder
minutes. Then add ginger and garlic pastes, saute for 30 seconds, add red
5g/ 1 tsp Coriander powder
chillies, coriander powder, turmeric and salt. Remove he handi, add
3g/'4
Turmeric
tsp yoghurt (this is done to prevent curdling), return to heat, add water
Salt (approx 200ml1/% cup + 4 tsp), bring to a boil and then simmer until the
225g/1 cup Yoghurt fat comes to the surface.
50g/3 Tbs Fried Onion paste* Add fried ‘onion paste, cashewnut paste and cream, bring to a boil,
30g/5 tsp Cashewnut paste
reduce to medium heat, add garam masala and cardamom and mac
100m1/7 Tbs Cream powder, stir. :
5g/1 tsp Garam Masala
3g/'4 tsp Green Cardamom
and Mace powder

Note: This is a yoghurt-based gravy, used mainly for kefta, korma and pasanda
Yield: approx 700ml1/1'4 tb delicacies.
Preparation time: 5 minutes
Cooking time; 15-18 minutes *See section on Onions.
a
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BASIC GRAVY
enaenerpemteseesnaee
epie eee ap eee teeeenns LUD

BASIC GRAVY II INGREDIENTS

150g/% cup Ghee
Whole Garam masala
PREPARATION 5 Green Cardamom
1 Black Cardamom
THE TOMATOES: Wash and chop. 5 Cloves
I Stick Cinnamon (1-inch)
| Bay Leaf
COOKING A pinch Mace
1258/4 cup Boiled Onion paste*
Heat ghee in a handi, add whole garam masala and saute over medium 10g/ 1% tsp Ginger paste
heat until it begins to crackle. Add boiled onion paste, saute for 2 10g/ 134 tsp Garlic paste
minutes, add ginger and garlic pastes and saute for 30 seconds. Then add 10g/2 tsp Red Chilli powder
red chillies, coriander powder, turmeric and salt, bhunno for 2 minutes. 5g/ | tsp Coriander powder
Add tomatoes, stir constantly until the fat comes to the surface, add 3g/'% tsp Turmeric
water (approx 200m1/%4 cup + 4 tsp), oring to a boil and then simmer Salt
until once again the fat comes to the surface. lkg/244 1b Tomatoes __
30g/5 tsp Fried Onion paste*
Now add fried onion paste, cashewnut paste and cream, bring to a boil.
.30g/5 tsp Cashewnut paste
Correct the consistency byadding water. Add garam masala, cardamom
100m1/7 Tbs Cream
and mace powder, stir.
5g/1 tsp Garam Masala
2g/Vst
Green Cardam
spom
a
and Mace powder

Note: This is a tomato-based gravy, used for basic lamb and chicken curries. Yield: approx 800m1/1% lb
Preparation time: 10 minutes
*See section on Onions. Cooking time: 35 minutes

MAKHANI GRAVY INGREDIENTS

lkg/2'4 lb Tomatoes
10g/1% tsp Ginger paste
PREPARATION 10g/134
tsp Garlic paste _
6 Green Chillies
THE VEGETABLES: Wash and chop tomatoes. Remove stems, wash, slit, 10g/2 tsp Red Chilli powder
deseed and chop green chillies. Scrape, wash and cut ginger into 10 Cloves
juliennes:
8 Green Cardamom
Salt

COOKING 150g/Acup Butter

150ml/?4cup Cream
Put the tomatoes in a handi, add water (approx | litre/4 cups), add the
 KADHAI GRAVY
204
SSF SSSR ES RS TRIE SESS ES SIE DE RT LETS LTO LL DEE LEE SLLODE DIE ELE ECE IE LEELONLEE IELEELEDL EAL LDL DELETED NEL

15m1/4'4 tsp Honey ginger and garlic pastes, green chillies, red chillies, cloves, cardamom
(Optional) and salt, reduce to a sauce consistency over low heat. Force through a
10g/2'4 tsp Fenugreek strainer into a separate handi, bring toa boil, add butter and cream, stir.
(Kasoori Methi) If the gravy is excessively sour, add honey. Then add fenugreek and
10g/1 Tbs Ginger ginger juliennes, stir.

Yield: 550m1/1% Ib
Preparation time: 20 minutes
Cooking time: 20-25 minutes

INGREDIENTS
KADHAI GRAVY
75g/6 Tbs Ghee
30g/5 tsp Garlic paste
15g/74 tsp Corjander seeds PREPARATION
10 Whole Red Chillies
4 Green Chillies THE SPICES: Pound the coriander seeds and whole red chillies with a
45g/%4
Gingercup pestle.
oir
Iemma)
one THE VEGETABLES: Remove stems, wash, slit, deseed and chop green
5g/1
Fenugreek
Tbs chillies. Scrape, wash and chop ginger. Wash and chop tomatoes.
(Kasoori Methi)
Salt
5g/1 tsp Garam Masala
COOKING

Heat ghee in a kadhai, add garlic paste and saute over medium heat until
light brown. Add the. pounded spices, saute for 30 seconds, add green
Yield: approx 550ml1/1% lb chillies and ginger, saute for 30 seconds. Then add tomatoes and bhunno
Preparation time: 25 minutes until the fat comes to the surface. Now add fenugreek and salt, stir.
Cooking time: 18-20 minutes Sprinkle garam masala and stir.

Pastes

The Onion Pastes

If a cuisine renowned for its exotic gravies—each sauce different from the other—one of the most
important ingredients is the humble onion. It is chopped, sliced, grated or quartered before
being fried or boiled to make a paste, which is the basis of most gravies. Different gravies require
 BOILED ONION PASTE
205
the onions to be processed differently. The gravy that goes with kofta for example, requires a
boiled onion paste. A Rogan Josh gravy, on the other hand, will require a fried onion paste.

FRYING OF ONIONS
When we talk of sauteeing onions in Indian cooking, we are actually describing the process of
browning them. Contrary to how easy it sounds, the process requires great skill and concentration.
There are many hues and shades of brown and each imparts its colour to the final product.

BOILED ONION PASTE INGREDIENTS

1kg/2'% lb Onions
3 Bay Leaves
PREPARATION 3 Black Cardamom

Peel, wash and roughly cut onions. Put in a handi, add bay leaves,
cardamom and 200ml/% cup + 4 tsp of water, bring to a boil, simmer
until onions are transparent and the liquid has evaporated. Transfer toa
blender and make a fine puree. Yield: approx Ikg/2% Ib

Note: The onion-water ratio is crucial to this preparation. Excess water will make a
thin puree and if the water is not enough, the onions will remain uncooked and in all
likelihood the lower layer will stick. The correct ratio is 5:1.

FRIED ONION PASTE INGREDIENTS

Ikg/2'% lb Onions
Groundnut Oil to fry
PREPARATION 100g/ 34 oz Yoghurt

Peel, wash and slice onions. Heat oil in a kadhai, add onions and saute
over medium heat until brown. Remove onions, spread over any
absorbent material and cool. Transfer to a blender, add yoghurt and
make a fine paste. Yield: approx 300/%/ |b

Note: This paste can be stored in sterilised, airtight containers for up to 15 days ina
refrigerator.
206

Other Pastes

INGREDIENTS GINGER PASTE

170g/1 cup Ginger

PREPARATION

THE GINGER: Scrape, wash and roughly chop.

THE PASTE: Put the chopped ginger in a blender, add 45m1/3 Tbs of
water and make a fine paste. Remove and refrigerate. Shelf life: 72
Yield: approx 210g 714 oz hours in the refrigerator.

Note: The containers in which these pastes are kept must be covered with foil or plastic
wrap before refrigeration. The alternatives are ziplock bags or freezer bags.

INGREDIENTS GARLIC PASTE

170g/1 Cup Garlic

PREPARATION

THE GARLIC: Peel and roughly chop.

THE PASTE: Put the chopped garlic in a blender, add 45m]1/3 Tbs of
water and make a fine paste. Remove and refrigerate. Shelf life: 72 hours
Yield: approx 210g/7'4 oz __ in the refrigerator.

sdhicxangeipees CASHEWNUT PASTE

160g/ 1 cup Cashewnuts
(broken)

PREPARATION

THE CASHEWNUTS: Soak in water for 30 minutes and drain.

THE PASTE: Put the drained cashewnuts in a blender, add 100ml1/7 Tbs
of water and make a fine paste. Remove and refrigerate. Shelf life: 24
Yield: approx 250g/9 oz hours in the refrigerator.
mma
 COCONUT PASTE
SSS
207

COCONUT PASTE INGREDIENTS

100g/ 14% cup Coconut

PREPARATION

THE COCONUT: Remove the brown skin and grate.

THE PASTE: Put the grated coconut in a blender, add 75ml/5 Tbs of
water (preferably coconut water) and make a fine paste. Remove and
refrigerate. Shelf life: 12 hours in the refrigerator. Yield: approx 160g/5'4 oz

a SS SSS SSS SSS es SSSA

POPPY SEED PASTE INGREDIENTS

150g/1 cup Poppy seeds

PREPARATION

THE POPPY SEEDS: Soak in warm water for 30 minutes and drain.
THE PASTE: Put the drained seeds in a blender, add 100ml/7 Tbs of
water and make a fine paste. Remove and refrigerate. Shelf life : 24
hours in the refrigerator. Yield: approx 330/11 oz

Tamarind Pulp
amarind grows on tropical trees, is shaped like a bean (except INGREDIENTS
that it is longer and wider) and the main ‘fruit’ is the pulp inside —50g/2 oz Tamarind
the brittle shell. Jm/i is dried before it is sold and, before use, it is
soaked in lukewarm water until soft—usually 25 to 30 minutes. It is
squeezed until it dissolves in the water at which stage the seeds and
fibres are strained out.

PREPARATION

Soak tamarind in 50ml/10 tsp of lukewarm water for 30 minutes

and force through a strainer. Discard the residue. Yield: approx 75ml/3 oz
208

Milk
Dahi (Yoghurt)
n Indian meal is inconceivable without dahi or yoghurt. It is omnipresent, so to speak.
A Either a part of the food is cooked in it or it is partaken in its natural form—unflavoured.
Derivatives are consumed as raita, lassi, or chaas (buttermilk). Remember, in Indian cooking,
yoghurt is always unflavoured.
Setting yoghurt is not as easy as it looks. It requires an understanding of the role enzymes play in
the process. This is how it is done:
Boil the milk and allow it to cool. The temperature of milk at which the ferment is to be added hasa
direct co-relation with the atmospheric temperature. If the weather is cold, the milk should be
warm and, after introducing the ferment, the vessel in use must be placed in warm surroundings
(well-wrapped in a blanket at home and in the warmest place, not the oven, in a commercial
kitcheh). In summer months, the milk should be allowed to cool to room temperature and the
vessel must be kept in a cool place.
If the milk is too hot, the dahiis likely to become sour. It will leave water and will not set firmly. On
the other hand, if the milk is not warm enough (approx 80-90° F) it will not set properly. Once the
milk is kept for setting, do not move or shake the container. If you do, the yoghurt will not set.
Traditionally; yoghurt is set in clay bowls. It sets just as well in other vessels.
It takes between four to six hours to set. Once it is set, the utensil must be placed in the refrigerator
to prevent any further souring.
The most commonly used ferment to set dahi is dahi itself. Lemon juice and vinegar make excellent
substitutes. In ideal conditions, a tablespoon of the ferment is sufficient to make approx Ikg/4!4
cups of yoghurt. One litre/4 cups of milk give you | kg/4'4 cups of yoghurt.
The recipes below are from my mother’s collection.

INGREDIENTS AMRIT DAHI

500 g/2'%4 cups Yoghurt A oe ‘ ' d
(full fat) mrit is Nectar and this yoghurt delicacy is a divine offering.
20g/2 Tbs Ginger
10g/1 Tbs Mango puree
PREPARATION
5g/1 tsp Green Cardamom
powder
THE YOGHURT: Hang in muslin until reduced by half (approx 6-8 hours).
THE GINGER: Scrape, wash, roughly cut, put in a blender, add water
 KESARI DAHI

(approx 15ml/1! Tbs) and make a fine paste. Remove and squeeze the 250ml/1 cup Milk
paste through muslin over a cup to collect the juice. Use 10m1/2 tsp of 20g/3 Tbs Castor Sugar —
juice. Discard the residue. 4g/1 tsp Saffron
THE MILK: Boil (reserve 30ml/2 Tbs) and keep aside. When it is warm, 10g/4 tsp Pistachio
add sugar and stir until dissolved. Chill.
THE SAFFRON: Dissolve in the reserved milk while it is still warm.
THE PISTACHIO: Blanch, cool, remove the skin and make slivers.

ASSEMBLING

Whisk the reduced yoghurt in a bowl, add ginger juice, mango puree and
cardamom powder, mix well. Incorporate the sweetened milk. Stir, add
saffron and stir. Transfer equal quantities of the mixture to 4 small
shikoras (earthenware bowls) and refrigerate.

TO SERVE

Remove shikoras from the refrigerator, garnish with pistachio and Serves: 4
serve chilled. Preparation time: 8-10 hours

KESARI DAHI INGREDIENTS

| litre/4 cups Milk (full fat)
here isn’t a better way to start a hot summer’s day than with a bowl of 80g/2Acup
Castor Sugar —
this saffron-flavoured yoghurt.
1g/2 tsp Saffron
1 drop Vetivier
PREPARATION
10g/4 tsp Almonds
THE MILK: Boil until reduced by half (reserve 30m1/2 Tbs) and keep
— Continued
aside. When it is warm, add sugar and stir until dissolved.
THE SAFFRON: Dissolve in the reserved milk while it is still warm.
THE ALMONDS: Blanch, cool, remove the skin and make slivers.

ASSEMBLING

When the milk is lukewarm, transfer to an earthenware handi, add

saffron and vetivier, stir, add the ferment, stir and allow it to set ina
warm place (approx 6 hours). Refrigerate.
ES ELD ELLE LEELA ELL ELIE LLL LLL DE LEI LL DE LIL DES DS
amErra ESS EE
 TO SERVE

Serves: 4 Remove handi from the refrigerator, garnish with almonds and serve
Preparation time: 8:30hours _—_chilled.

PANEER
here is no Western or Oriental equivalent of Paneer, which is often called cottage cheese in
India. The cottage cheese available on the shelves of supermarkets elsewhere is quite different.
Riccotta cheese is the nearest in terms of taste but not in terms of texture. In fact, Riccotta cheese
cannot be converted into a block like Paneer. Besides, Riccotta cheese becomes sticky and
‘leathery’ when heated. Paneer is an extraordinary source of protein in a largely vegetarian Sub-
continental diet. It is no exaggeration to say that what meat is to non-vegetarians, Paneer is to the
vegetarians. The spin-off in terms of the number of delicacies that can be conceived with our desi
cheese matches that of the meats. Strangely, it is the easiest cheese to make and requires no curing
time or expertise.

INGREDIENTS
3 litres/12% cups Milk PREPARATION
90m1/6 Tbs Lemon juice or
White Vinegar Boil milk in a handi, stirring cecasionally to ensure that a skin does not
form on the surface. When the milk begins to rise, add lemon juice or
vinegar. The miik will curdle and the whey will separate. Strain the
curdled milk through fine muslin allowing the whey to drain out. Hang
the muslin for at least an hour to ensure that any remaining moisture is
drained out. What is left behind is Paneer. It can be used as it is fora
number of dishes. Or it can be converted into a block.-To convert the
Paneer into a block, keep it wrapped in the muslin and place a weight on
Yield: approx 600g/ 1/3 Ib top for 2-3 hours. The block facilitates the cutting of Paneer into cubes,
Preparation time: 8:30 hours slices and batons. Shelf life: 48 hours in the refrigerator.

CHHENNA
INGREDIENTS
2 litres/8Y/3 cups Milk PREPARATION
(fresh and full fat)
160ml/2/ cup White Vinegar Put milk in a handi, bring to a boil, remove and cool to 120°F. Add
vinegar in a steady stream over the entire surface and stir until the milk
curdles (approx 3 minutes). Pour the curdled milk onto muslin spread in
a strainer placed over the sink to drain out the whey. Then hold the four
corners of the muslin and prod and gently squeeze the residue until a
‘milky’ whey starts tc ooze out. Transfer the residue— Chhenna—while
it is still warm onto a flat tray and knead firmly with the palm to mash
the granules. Cool, wrap in silver foil and refrigerate. Shelf life: 24 hours _Yiela: approx 400g/ 14 oz
in the refrigerator. Preparation time: | hour

KHOYA
INGREDIENTS
PREPARATION 2 litres/8'4 cups Milk
(fresh and full fat)
Put milk in a kadhai, bring to a boil and reduce to low heat. Thence stir
after every 5 minutes until reduced by half. Thereafter, stir constantly
and simultaneously scrape the dried layer of milk that sticks to sides into
the kadhai—this will ensure that the milk does not acquire a ‘burnt’
flavour—until reduced to a mashed potato consistency. Remove to a __ Yield: approx 400g/14 oz
bowl, cool and refrigerate. Shelf life: 48 hours in the refrigerator. Preparation time: !:30 hours

Note: A teflon-coated wok or pan is an ideal alternative to the kadhai.

COCONUT

hile coastal cooking is inconceivable without it, the coconut.is an important ingredient in the
kitchens of the North as well. The only difference is that whereas in the coastal areas, fresh
coconut is used, north of the Vindhyas it is the dry coconut that is in greater use.
While fresh, grated coconut is used mainly as a garnish or as an ingredient for wet masala, when it
comes to cooking, it is ‘coconut milk’ that lends its unique flavour. Coconut milk is not to be
confused with the liquid inside the coconut—that is just coconut water and is a delicious and cool.
soft drink sold at street corners and even in restaurants. Coconut milk is extracted by squeezing the
freshly ground white meat of a mature coconut. Here is how to do it:
 HOW TO MAKE DESI GHEE FROM BUTTER
—D——_——:—sOo O$9@MT—"._-C-"..”""——V—WW_....." "UL. ™
Remove the brown skin, grate 100g/ 14 cups of the white meat, put in a blender, add lukewarm
water (approx 100ml/7 Tbs) and liquidise. Then-force the liquid through a fine strainer. The
strained liquid is called the ‘First Milk’ or ‘First Extract’.
To obtain the ‘Second Milk’ or ‘Second Extract’, put the:residue in the blender, add lukewarm
water (approx 100ml/7 Tbs) and liquidise. Force the liquid through a fine strainer. The ‘Second
Milk’ is thinner and has less flavour.

How to Make Desi Ghee from Butter

eat and fully melt unsalted butter over low heat in a heavy-bottomed handi without
letting it brown. Now increase the heat and bring the butter to a boil. When the butter
starts foaming, stir once and reduce to very low heat. Simmer gently for about 45 minutes
until the milk solids settle on the bottom of the pan and the transparent butter is afloat.
Drain the transparent butter, 1.e. desi ghee, through muslin into another container without
disturbing the sediment. Once cold, it will solidify. Store at room temperature.
 213

pat SUPPORTING CAST”

Buoy K. JoserH: The Zurich-trained Joseph excels in the “cold kitchen”. Garde
Manger Chef at the Welcomgroup Maurya Sheraton, he chose to jcin the
author's team for the novel Cold Food experiment because “it offered a unique
opportunity to explore an aspect of Indian cuisine ignored until now.”

Monwan LAL THAKuR: An acknowledged master of his craft, Thakur is Garde 2

Manger Chef at The Oberoi, New Delhi. That he was invited to prepare and
display his creations at the coronation of the King of Bhutan, in 1978, is a
tribute to his skill in the cold kitchen and expertise in ice displays and butter |
sculptures.

E.B. Atmeipa: His curriculum vitae—trained in Italy: and at ihe Culinary

Institute of America—is misleading. For, this native of Goa excels in a variety of
Indian cuisines—particularly Goan cooking—and boasts of skills that won him
the coveted job of Chef at Raga, the popular Indian restaurant in New York.
Presently he is Chet at the Taj Samudri, Colombo.

Cyrus Topiwata: Acknowledged to be an excellent chef, a reputation earned et ele

the Taj Mahal Hotel, Bombay, Todiwala today is Chef at Fort Aguada, waic. i
makes him master of the kitchen of that incomparable beach resort in Goa. Mabie. le

SATINDERPAL SINGH CHAUDHURY: For a by-the-book man, Chaudhury has a

particularly light hand and displays uncommon finesse with gravies—as
is evident in the recipes in the Punjab Section. At present, he is Indian Chef at
the Oberoi Babylon, in Iraq.
 THE “SUPPORTING CAST”
Se a TTT SE DE SSS
DN meee

PonnapatTti PAPAIAH: He wasn’t quite 10 when his mother died and Papaiah had
to miss classes to cook for the family. An unwanted chore became a hobby, then
a vocation and, finally, a passion which has made Papaiah the pride of
Welcomgroup Chola Sheraton, Madras.

MouamMMepD Naseem: Like many talented chefs, Naseem is also a fine

halwai—his creations more exciting than the sweetmeats prepared in most
mithai shops. The two non-vegetarian delights in the Desserts Section are the
work of this man who presides over the banquet kitchen of the Welcomgroup
Maurya Sheraton.

SuJATA KANIANTHRA: One of less than half-a-dozen’women chefs in India, which

is surprising when one considers the oft repeated statement that the best
cocking is done in homes—by women. Ms Kanianthra’s family recipes of South
Indian desserts and chutneys helped complete these chapters.

Guur.aM Rasoot: In a tribute, Corporate Chef Richard Graham described

Rasool as a “true artiste’—and asked him to join his team that toured the U.S.
during the Festivalof India. Rasool is currently Indian Chef at the Welcomgroup
Chola Sheraton, Madras. He assisted with the Avadh, Dum Pukht and Bread
Sections.

NivesH P. NADKARNI: The other member of “Team Snack”, Nadkarni has been
instrumental in providing a selection of savouries with tantalizing tastes and
exquisite shapes. He is Sous Chef at the Welcomgroup Searock, Bombay.
a — 7

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