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meet our cov ress.
the Danni D
some last-minute
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schools break up)
61
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38
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with an easy-wear drape dress
(p30) to see you through from
early-morning presents, right
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A huge thank you to this talented lot... TECHNICAL EDITOR Sarah Taylor
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WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING 9
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TABBY ROAD
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The Déjà Vu collections from Tula Pink are
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10 WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING
FINDING MeAnING thE paTTern
Change the way you approach
Jackets
Edit
creative endeavours with a new Stay warm and stylish
book by the founder of Brown in these jackets says
Paper Bag, Sara Barnes. In Production Editor
Threads of Treasure: How to Sarah Trevelyan
Make, Mend, and Find Meaning
through Thread, she explores NOW ME SEWING
PATTERN ME2061
the perspective of 14 modern
We love this Men’s
stitchers and how to use thread Puffer Jacket In Two
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moments. schifferbooks.com Dánta Ford.
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SHIV TEXTILES
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renowned for its considered designs and
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latest collection: Patterns in Repeat. This new PATTERN 5768
series of cushions draws inspiration from the Discover the
studio’s bestselling Aednat Blanket, weaving versatility of this
together mid-century patterns and palettes men’s jacket
with modern flair. Patterns in Repeat is a bold pattern: as attractive
celebration of pattern, colour, and texture. Find as a modern
the gorgeous Aednat Blanket (120x220cm) and lumberjack shirt, but
more at shivtextiles.co.uk perfect as either
a lightweight jacket or ultra-warm cardigan
WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING 11
RECYCLED
RIBBON
▼Namaste is
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Find ribbon made
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yarn and more at
namaste-uk.co.uk 12 DAYS OF CHRISTMAS
Gathered’s 12 days of Christmas is back
for the third year in a row! For 12 days,
CLOsET EsSENTIALS
starting on December 2nd, there will be
12 exclusive projects for you to get your
hands on. Each day has a completely
We are so excited about the brand new Phoebe coat from unique project (one of which will be our
Closet Core Patterns. It is a timeless winter coat with a notched cute Christmas Elf pattern) for you to
collar and beautiful tailored details, Phoebe has an oversized fit download for FREE. But you’ll have to be
and comes in alpha-sizing from XS-4X. The drop shoulder, quick… each project disappears after
roomy two-piece sleeve, and oversized fit make it ideal for 24hrs (unless you subscribe to their
layering over bulky winter layers. closetcorepatterns.com newsletter). See more at gathered.how
3 of the best
IN THE BAG
Give a gift that keeps on giving with these bag
designs for all occasions and family members
12 WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING
Pinboard
INSPIRING
READS
UPCYCLE
Annie Phillips
(£9.99, Quadrille )
Tired of wearing clothes that
fall apart after one wash?
Struggling to find second-
hand clothing that fits? Offering a modern
approach to sustainable sewing for the
home dressmaker, this book tackles the
three core repair techniques: Upcycling,
Mending, and Creating. Upcycle by Annie
MAKE A SPLASH
Here's something unique and new from
Phillips (Quadrille, £20). Photographs
© Kristin Perers. Illustrations © Suzie London.
CRAFT AND
Based on animation by Little Woolly Vision.
WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING 13
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16 WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING
Download Handmade
Christmas − your
Today!
WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING 17
Crimbo tops
Create these customised Christmas Jumpers
with the help of Cricut Iron on Vinyl™. Craft
pro Kate Smith shows you how.
Crimbo tops
01 02 03
07 08 09
YOU WILL NEED CREATING THE DESIGN placement, it's time to start pressing the design
■ Sweater (cotton jersey style) Step one If using a Cricut machine: measure in place. If using a Cricut EasyPress: refer to the
■ Cricut Iron-On Vinyl or Smart your sweater to decide how large you'd like your Cricut Heat App or Guide to set the correct time
Iron-on Vinyl™ snowflakes or fairy lights to be. 01 and temperature. 06
■ Scissors Step two If using a Cricut cutting machine: Step three Set your Cricut EasyPress to the
■ Tape measure Upload the svg files to Cricut Design Space, or correct time & temperature for your sweater
■ Cricut weeding tool search 'Fairy lights' or 'Snowflake' in 'Images'. fabric and Iron-On Material. Or preheat your
■ Cricut heat mat or towel Resize and duplicate as necessary. If cutting iron to the hottest setting (no steam). 07
■ Pencil manually: download and print images and cut Step four If you're making the fairy lights
■ Lint Roller out as your templates. 02 design, remove the coloured bulbs from the
■ Greaseproof paper sweater and start by pressing the wire first. (You
■ Cricut EasyPress™ or iron CUTTING THE DESIGN may need to use the heat-resistant tape to
■ Cricut heat-resistant tape Step one If using a Cricut machine: click 'Make it' secure the wire to the jumper (matt side down/
■ Cricut Maker 3™ or Cricut Joy Xtra™ and follow the on-screen prompts. Load your shiny side up). 08
(Optional) chosen colours of Cricut Smart Iron-On Vinyl Step five Place a piece of greaseproof paper
■ Computer, tablet or smartphone one by one, to be cut. If cutting manually: trace over the design to protect it, then place the
with Cricut Design Space™ the templates onto the corresponding colour preheated EasyPress/iron carefully onto the
downloaded (Optional) Iron-On Vinyl (draw on the matt side), then cut design for the required length of time and
out with scissors. 03 pressure, as directed. 09
NOTES Step two If using a Cricut machine: weed the Step six When cooled, carefully peel off the
■ Download the templates from negative Iron-On Vinyl using your weeding tool, shiny carrier sheet leaving the iron-on vinyl on
gathered.how/ss-templates to leave the positive design remaining on the your sweater. 10
■ Cricut is available from cricut.com, shiny carrier sheet. 04 Step seven For the fairy lights design, place the
Hobbycraft, John Lewis, Very and coloured bulbs onto the design and repeat the
Amazon. TRANSFERRING THE DESIGN heat transfer process. Important: You must
■ Find Cricut help and inspiration at Step one Iron your jumper and ensure it's free of ensure no pieces of the design overlap as you
help.cricut.com and @cricut_uk lint etc. Place on a flat surface with a Cricut heat press them in position. And place a sheet of
■ Find more Cricut tips from us on mat or towel underneath. 05 greaseproof paper over your design, to protect
Instagram @simplysewingmag Step two Design your sweater by placing the any pieces previously pressed which now have
■ It is possible to download the cut Iron-On Vinyl pieces onto the jumper, shiny no carrier sheet. 11
images, trace, and cut by hand. side facing up. When you're happy with the Step eight For the snowflake design, you can
20 WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING
crimbo tops
04 05 06
10 11 12
s are
All template nload
ow
available to d.how. Scan
ed
from gather o straight to
the code to g s page!
the template
WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING 21
THIS MONTH...
DESIGN DETAILS
A chic Mandarin collar and
bound edges give this classic
set a stylish update.
COMFORT MATTERS
An elasticated waistline with a tie-
front detail keeps these pyjamas
feeling comfy all night long.
PICCADILLY PYJAMAS
This new pattern from Nina Lee creates
a chic sleepwear set with stylish accents
– including a soft and open Mandarin collar
and gently curved hems. Choose from shorts
and a cap-sleeved shirt, or cropped trousers
and a shirt with three-quarter length sleeves.
Both bottoms have a flat-front waistband
with an elasticated back, and are finished
with a cute ribbon tie. ninalee.co.uk
22 WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING
3
PATTERN INSPIRATION
Snuggle up with our pick of the best nightwear STRETCH STYLE
patterns to make before bedtime. Sew up a capsule collection of
nightwear-friendly designs.
2 With five patterns, 10 variations,
1 and numerous other tips and tricks
included, The Loungewear Edit
– Stretch Edition from Workshop
provides an entire capsule collection
of slouchy, stylish nightwear-friendly
4 designs. The booklet not only
includes patterns but teaches how
to work with jersey, elastic, and other
stretch materials, with tips and tricks
to conquer any fears you may have
about working with knit fabrics.
helloworkshop.co.uk
5 6
WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING 23
tips & tricks
Settle in for the evening with our guide to creating your own collection of comfy, cosy nightwear.
24 WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING
GO FOR A WALK
MEASURE TWICE If you've opted for a slippery material such as
On that note, making sure you cut your pyjamas satin, silk, or rayon, using a walking foot when
to fit you well will make all the difference between sewing your project can make the process much
having a stuffy, uneasy night’s sleep and a pleasant easier. It’ll help guide the fabric evenly through
slumber. Nightwear should feel comfortable and your machine, preventing bunching or
non-restrictive, without being so oversized that stretching, and keeps your stitches even.
it bunches up or falls down. Always check your
measurements twice before cutting your fabric!
BUTTON UP
For pyjama tops or nightgowns, use buttons or
snaps as closures. Plastic snaps are relatively easy
to apply and feel soft, whilst buttons offer Sophie (she/her) is a craft writer
a classic look. Avoid metal fastenings if you can, and embroidery artist who lives
as they can be cold and uncomfortable. with her husband and four cats.
Self-cover fabric buttons are softer still, and give She loves dressmaking and
your finished make a luxurious high-end feel. collecting way too much fabric.
WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING 25
lounge wear
Whip up these quick-to-sew
gender neutral pyjamas bottoms
in plenty of time for Christmas.
Designed by Becky Perry for Prima UK, November 2023.
george pyjamas
T
he long, dark winter nights are made for
early, cosy nights in, so why not get as
comfortable as you can in these relaxed-fit
pyjama bottoms! They are a fab first make or a
super quick one to get you back into
dressmaking − and for lounging about it! Make
them for yourself or loved ones − or kit the whole
family out in matching Christmas pyjamas! Don't
forget to share your makes with us online using
#simplysewingmag
Mak
ea
for ev pair of co
eryon m
e in t fy pyjam
he fa a
mily s
!
WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING 27
MY SEWING
WORLD
By Blanca Blak
Blanca’s love of fashion kick-started her
sewing hobby. She took dozens of online
courses now sews whenever she can. Check out Bla
n
hopping on Instagram late one night… and
Instagram @ ca's creations on
blakandblan
most of the pieces I wanted to own were ca
made by the men and women wearing
them! What? Sewing is a thing? The next
morning my dusty sewing machine was
taken out of the hall closet and stared at me to have access to in-person
while I searched for the manual, thread, and a cloth
napkin to see if the old girl was still running.
classes take advantage of them."
Online deadline
It took three months to make a denim shirt, and two
pairs of fly-front casual trousers with pockets. I found
a challenge on Instagram to give me a deadline and
motivation and they offered some prizes which looked
great. Well, sometimes good things happen to bad
sewists because although I didn’t win prizes those
pieces are still loved and worn five years later. After
taking many online courses (dozens and dozens as
I live in a no-sewing zone) my skills improved.
Honestly though almost everything I know was
offered in the way of posts on Instagram by generous,
talented, and also humorous sewists around the
planet, and open 24hrs a day for the sleepless ones
out there. If you are fortunate enough to have access
to in-person classes or group meet-ups do take
advantage of those as your base for better sewing.
The face-to-face support and knowledge is my dream.
Talented dressmaker
My interest in sewing was sparked as a pre-teen with
an absolute obsession for a menswear-inspired pants
suit. Our local dressmaker who was actually the most
elegant, talented, and kind person who agreed to
Blanca in two of her
guide me through the sewing process. It was handmade jackets.
thrilling to go to a fabric store and it was my first
outing to a pattern counter with huge
catalogues with many choices. In the end it
turned out well but that’s because the
dressmaker really made it happen. That
suit was the joy of my small closet for
years even though I had no place to
wear it except running errands and
v i n tag e pattern
earing a
Blanca w striped shirting.
in a
patterns offered today and some of them
just work better for my frame."
a few celebrations. Young ladies were supposed
to wear dresses to dances back then and that
r excluded this outfit from many occasions but it left
Androgynos streetwear
I didn’t sew again for many years but my interest in
fashion always left me longing for the perfect colour,
fabric, and fit while buying clothes off the rack and at
most changing the buttons for a better look and
having them altered. Today I sew when there is time
and when I can’t get to the process I will cut and paste
and doodle in my sewing journal while I am on the
go. Adapting patterns for my difficult fit issues is
a process that most sewists struggle with along
the way to making any clothing. There are so
many wonderful patterns offered today and
some of them just work better for my frame
and that results in lots of variations on one
trouser or jacket pattern before trying a new
design. Next on the late summer sewing plans
will be my seventh couture jacket in wool and silk
inspired by more tailors and sewists than I could ever
list. There is just something about the tailoring and
hand-stitching and steaming the wool. It is exciting
and satisfying if you just remember that it is meant to
be a slow process, like letting your hair grow, it takes
Blanca loves wearing her 'floppy a certain amount of time. The jackets I have made are
wrinkled linen trousers' on hot car not special occasion but actually all occasion pieces
journeys or train rides. Hacked that I wear with sweatpants or wool, tailored trousers.
Closest Core Pattern.
Keeping me inspired...
My inspiration and
motivation comes from so
many sorces: First are the
people I see on the street,
yong and r
ll sizes. Instagram is
my go-to and there is no
excluding the impact that
film and theatre costumers
r
runway shows on YoTube
r cosy and fabric shops.
Blanca in on Blanca in one tops.
r Theory
− e r fave mak
es
ls.
WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING 29
Turn the
PSST :
pag
styling i e for fabric and
nsp
your Dan iration. Share
ni
using #S Dress with us
implySew
ingMag
comfy chic!
This trending elegant drape dress designed by
Claire-Louise Hardie has everything going for
it − style, elegance and comfort!
Danni dress
W
e love the stylish, comfortable and versatile
Danni Dress. It is the epitome of comfy chic
− perfect for a day in the office or lunch
date but will also take you through to the
evening. Sew a short-sleeved version for warm
days or the longer-sleeved block-coloured
version for the cooler ones. The recommended
fabrics − stretchy double-knit jersey, Ponte Roma
CLASSIC LINES
or Milano Rib − are warm and durable so you Sew a stylish and
won't feel the cold, especially if teamed up with delicate V-neck for
thick tights and boots. Don't forget to share your a timeless look.
makes with us using #simplysewingmag on
social media.
NOTES
■ Seam allowance 1cm, unless otherwise stated
■ The dress can be sewn either with
a zigzag/lightening stitch on a sewing
machine, or with an overlocker
SUGGESTED FABRICS
■ Double-knit jersey, Ponte Roma or Milano Rib. VERSATILE
This pattern is not suitable for fabric with Sew your Danni
Dress with short
a large amount of stretch or long sleeves.
FABRICS USED
■ Colourblock sample: Meet MILK Two Tone
Tencel Lyocell Ponte Roma in Blueberry and
the Minerva Core Range Stable Ponte Roma in
Orange, minerva.com
■ Monochrome sample: Minerva Exclusive
Monstera Street Ponte Roma Double Stretch
Knit Fabric, minerva.com
The Dann
iD
of style an ress is the epitom
d comfort e
− perfect
everyday fo
wear
Danni dress
Woodland Trail
wear it with
Simple style
Ponte Roma, minerva.com
FABRIC INSPIRATION
Animal
Glow Ponte Roma,
Mauve MILK Pilu minerva.com
sweatshirt, minerva.com
WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING 33
Business owners Rebecca Reid and Amy
Gaunt allow us behind-the-scenes of
their thriving sewing company.
Written by Rachel Avery.
hen one door closes another one Above Rebcca and Amy with some of their
opens. This is a great way to look sewing kits Right Rebecca is the sewing
technician, writing and filming the tutorials while
at life when things aren't going to Amy edits them and illustrates the beautiful kits.
plan. But sometimes, that door
needs to be thrown open yourself "We definitely stick to our own skillsets in the
and that's exactly what work designing process, but I’ve actually sewn a few
colleagues Rebecca Reid and Amy Gaunt did of our projects by following Rebecca’s fantastic
when faced with redundancy in 2020. step-by-step tutorials," reveals Amy. In fact, their
Determined not to let their winning dynamic first sewing kit, Thatched Cottage, was Amy's
go to waste, they took the plunge and started first ever make! Reminiscing about her own
Amber Makes together (ambermakesco.com), introduction into sewing, Rebecca recalls being
launching their first sewing kit in the May of very young and crafting a Mr Bump felt toy for
that year. Now, the company sells a selection of her sister. Perhaps from that moment her whole
sewing patterns and kits as well as sewing- career was set in motion.
themed gifts and essential haberdashery.
Friends Amy and KIT IT OUT
Rebecca explain that From handy shopper
their cut-and-sew
"sewing is such a mindful hobby so if bags and adorable
WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING 35
a good read
BUSINESS 101
Crafty entrepreneurs Rebecca
and Amy offer up their insights
and best business advice
36 WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING
a good read
Above Rebecca and Amy work together as a team "Supporting small UK-based businesses is
deciding on the projects. Rebecca makes it up in really important to us," tells Amy.
plain fabric and Amy designs the print .
"We make sure our kits are printed in
So how does an Amber Makes kit go from the UK, and we're committed to creating
just an idea to real-life physical set? Once and producing items on demand, which
they've both agreed on the next project it's helps reduce waste and is better for the
over to Rebecca. "I make it up in plain fabric environment.
then write the instructions for it as I go," she Plus, producing locally means fewer
reports. "I then send a brief to Amy with all the shipping emissions. And we’re proud to say
measurements and templates, and she draws we never use plastic in our kits or packaging."
it out and designs the print and orders us Looking to the future, Rebecca and Amy
a test sample." reveal that Amber Makes customers should
Priding herself on knowing exactly what look out for new materials on the company
a crafter needs thanks website soon.
to her background Rebecca divulges
as a technical sewing
"supporting small uk-based businesses plans for more velvet
WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING 37
TIP: an half a
n e e d l ess th is
You
f f ab ri c for th
metre o at for scraps!
gre
make -
take a bow
Sew Debbie Wainhouse's smart
bowtie and pocket square duo to
elevate a plain suit − a perfect gift!
Bowtie
01 02 03
04 05 06
YOU WILL NEED CUTTING OUT Step two Add the slider onto the raw end of the
■ 0.5m fabric Step one From the main fabric, cut: Collar strap. Insert the raw end through one of
■ Set of 19mm bow tie clasps Bow: two 25x14cm the openings in the clasp then fold the fabric
■ Lightweight iron-on interfacing Bow Centre: one 4x8cm back on itself as in the step image. Turn the raw
■ Loop turner or chopstick Collar: one 5x55cm edge under and stitch in place.
■ Matching thread Step two From the iron-on interfacing cut: Step three Attach the hook onto the strap with
■ Basic sewing kit Bow: two 25x14cm the hook facing out. Thread the other end back
Bow Centre: one 4x8cm though the slider to make the strap adjustable.
NOTES Attach the last piece of the clasp to the other
■ Seam allowance is 1cm, unless MAKING THE BOW TIE end of the strap and stitch in place. 04
otherwise stated Step one Apply the iron-on interfacing to the Step four Pinch the centre of the Bow, bringing
wrong side (WS) of the fabric. top and bottom edges in to meet the middle.
FABRIC USED Step two Take one the of the Bow pieces and Handstitch in place. Handstitch the bow to the
■ Liberty London Strawberry Thief measure the centre point on each short end. neck strap between the adjuster and clasp. 05
Augusta Linen Cotton Fabric Navy Fold the fabric lengthways to meet this middle Step five Take the Bow Centre and wrap around
from minerva.com point and press. 01 the middle of the Bow and Collar. Hand stitch in
Step three Fold the short ends in to meet in the place at the back of the bow. 06
middle. Stitch down either side of the middle
seam as close as possible to the raw edges. 02 MAKING THE POCKET SQUARE
Step four Repeat with the other Bow piece then Step one Cut a square of matching fabric
with seams facing each other, sandwich the two measuring 35x35cm.
Bows together and stitch down the centre. 03 Step two Press each edge in to the WS by 5mm
and then again by 5mm. Stitch all the way
MAKING THE BOW CENTRE AND COLLAR around the edge.
Step one Fold the Bow Centre piece in half so
the long edges meet. Stitch along one end and Debbie (she/her) has always
one side. Trim the seams and turn through to been an avid maker and
the right side (RS). Press. Repeat with the Collar hasn't met a craft she doesn't
piece to create the bow tie strap. Use a loop like! She lives in Bristol and
turner or a blunt item such as a knitting needle makes bike bags. See more
or chopstick to help push the fabric RS out. of hehr makes @hila.studio
40 WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING
Sew your exclusive
shoulder bag pattern
from Amber Makes
WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING 41
Sew this gorgeous full circle, multiwear dress
to see you through the party season. Fashion
designer Portia Lawrie shows you how.
Self-draft
01 02 03
07 08 09
YOU WILL NEED NOTES this is specific to this measurement, and yours
■ 3m Light to medium weight jersey ■ The hem and the sides of the front panels are may vary depending on your waist size. 01
fabric (150cm wide) with 2-way left raw so recommend taking care during the Step two Now, on the corner of a large piece of
stretch and 30-40% stretch cutting process to avoid scissor jags. A rotary paper, draw a quarter circle. The straight edges
■ Tape measure cutter can be beneficial here if you have one. of this quarter circle should be the same length
■ Paper ■ The length of your circle skirt will be limited as your WR or slightly under, if that makes the
■ Compass (optional) by the fabric width remaining after the waist process easier for you. Since your fabric is
■ Matching thread hole has been cut, since both the waist radius stretchy and quite forgiving, it doesn’t have to
■ Basic sewing kit and desired skirt length must fit within the be exactly your WR measurement or a perfectly
fabric's folded width. This method will precise quarter circle − just ensure it’s in the
therefore yield a maximum skirt length general area. 02
somewhere between midi and knee length, Step three Once you are satisfied with your
depending on your waist size and the width quarter circle, carefully cut it out. This cut out
of your fabric. now represents one quarter of the hole we need
■ Because it’s a circle skirt, it’s a good idea to to cut in the fabric for the waist opening, and
let the dress hang overnight, as the hem may we’ll use it as a sort of “negative space”
drop to a certain degree (dependent on the template for marking. Make sure to keep the
stretch and composition of your fabric). If the paper template in a safe spot, in case you want
hem becomes uneven after this, it can be to reuse it. 03
trimmed/evened out in line with the floor. It’s
for this reason that a 4-way stretch fabric is CUTTING OUT
not recommended Step one Now, cut a 150cm length of your
■ *Waist Radius (WR) = Waist divided by 6.28 fabric. Lay it flat, then fold it selvedge to
■ **Strap width (SW) = (Bust x 0.6) divided by 2 selvedge, and fold again from top to bottom,
effectively folding the fabric into quarters. This
CREATING THE PAPER PATTERN method ensures symmetry when cutting. Pin
Step one Measure your waist and divide the your paper template into the folded corner of
number by 6.28. This calculation will give you a the fabric, as pictured. 04
“waist radius” measurement, often abbreviated Step two From the curved edge of your
as WR*. For example, our model has a 26” waist, template, extend a ruler or tape measure and
which results in a WR of 4.14”. Keep in mind that begin marking the desired skirt length from
44 WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING
04 05 06
10 11 12
that curved edge. Be sure to keep your ruler at centre front for a little extra “coverage.” 10
the same distance from the curved edge of your Step two Next, you’ll need to create the
template to maintain a smooth, even hemline. waistband: For this, cut a band of fabric 18cm
Work your way around the arc, marking the skirt wide and just slightly smaller than your waist, to
length at multiple points, starting from one account for stretch. You may need to try it on to
selvedge edge and finishing at the other folds. establish the perfect width, so cut it the same
It’s important to take your time here so that length as your waist measurement to begin
your final skirt has an even hem. 05 with then check for fit and trim as required. It
Step three Next, cut along the curved edge of needs to fit your waist but also be able to
your template through all layers of the fabric to stretch over your hips. Once you are happy, sew
create the waist opening. 06 the short ends RS together to form a loop, then
Step four Then, cut along the hemline through fold it over wrong sides (WS) together so that
all layers, carefully following the marks you the raw edges are aligned. 11
made to ensure the skirt length is uniform and Step three Now, pin the waistband to the waist
symmetrical. 07 of your skirt, RS together and raw edges
Step five From the full width of your fabric, cut aligned, sandwiching the basted tie panels
two panels that are SW** wide, which will be between the waistband and the skirt itself. Sew
used as part of the waistband and possibly for them all together carefully. 12
the straps. 08 Step four Once complete, press the waistband
Step six Next, notch your waistline (cut little away from the skirt to achieve a clean finish,
snips or triangles within the seam allowance), and you’re done. Now you get to enjoy styling
marking the centre front and centre back your dress in all the ways possible! Check out
points. This will help to ensure an even the next page to see how many different ways
distribution between the waist and waistband you can wear this versatile self-draft dress.
later on. 09
Portia (she/her) is a writer,
STITCHING THE DRESS designer, mum and advocate
Step one With the panels laying downwards for recycling and reusing
towards the hem of the skirt, proceed by textiles. She works from a log
basting the panels right sides (RS) together to cabin in her garden. See
the front waist, slightly overlapping them at the more @portialawrie.
WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING 45
Self-draft
Wear the dress
as a plunge Go asymetrical
neck with with the one-sided
twisted belt. twisted strap.
Do the twist -
have a central
back strap.
8 ways to wear
Twist it, tie it, drape it, there are
lots of ways to style it, but here’s
some ideas to get you started!
Make a high
halter neck
at the front.
46 WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING
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blanket revival
Upcycle old wool blankets and create this
gorgeous warm patchwork quilt.
Xanthe Grundy shows you how.
patchwork quilt
01 02 03
07 08 09
50 WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING
patchwork quilt
04 05 06
10 11 12
Australia-based Xanthe
(@wifemade) designs
contemporary quilt and
sewing patterns inspired by
mid-century modern design
and handcrafts nostalgia.
WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING 51
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snow scene
Create your own miniature winter
wonderland scene with Louisa
Burtonshaw's appliqué stocking.
felt stocking
01 02 03
07 08 09
YOU WILL NEED PREPARE THE FABRIC – STOCKING CONSTRUCT THE APPLIQUÉ SCENE
■ 1 x piece of bondaweb 30x100cm Step one Fold the large piece of blue/green felt Step one Take the Stocking Base piece where
■ 1 x piece of felt 50x70cm: pale in half and lay the stocking pattern piece on the toe points to the left and lay it on a flat
blue/green top. Pin and cut through both layers to create surface. Lay the large snow pieces and the pink
■ 1 x piece of felt 50x30cm: white two Stocking Base pieces. 01 path on top of the blue base piece. Refer to the
■ 1 x A4 sheet of felt in the following Step two From the red felt, cut: final photo of the stocking as you do this, NOT
colours: bright red, pale blue, mid Binding Strips: 2 rectangles 22cm x 4cm the pattern drawing as this drawing is
blue, dark green, mid green and Hanging Loop: 1 rectangle 14cm x 4cm a reflected image of the final stocking.
pale pink Step two Iron the pieces into place, pressing
■ Scraps of felt in the following PREPARE THE PIECES firmly to make sure they are stuck down. 05
colours: bright pink and black Step one From the template, trace all of the Step three Next place the blue mountain pieces
■ Matching thread elements of the snow scene onto the bondaweb into place and iron them down. Place the snowy
■ Basic sewing kit in pencil. When tracing the elements like the mountain tops in place over the top and iron
house and car, each piece that is a different them down. 06
NOTES colour will need to be traced separately. For Step four Continue placing all of the pieces in to
■ All seam allowances are 1cm, example, for the car you will need to trace the place, working from the bottom layer to the top
unless otherwise stated main body, the windows, the tyres and the and placing and ironing one at a time. Don’t be
■ Download the template from hubcaps all individually. Don’t forget to trace tempted to iron a lot of pieces at once as this is
gathered.how/ss-templates the large pieces of snow that make the base of where movement may occur. 07
the scene. 02
MATERIALS USED Step two Cut around each piece roughly leaving EMBROIDER THE DESIGN
■ 100% pure wool felt from a border around the pencilled shape. Step one Set up the sewing machine for free
cloudcraft.co.uk Step three Place the shapes onto the correct motion embroidery. Matching the thread to the
colour of felt and iron in place glue side down. colour of felt, stitch around each shape 2mm in
Make sure they are stuck firmly. 03 from the edge. 08
Step four Cut neatly around the pencilled Step two Add the embellishments to the house
shapes, you should now have all of the shapes and car. On the house, stitch the wreaths
that make up the snow scene. Remove the around the door and gable and the smoke from
backing paper from each piece carefully, the chimney. On the car, stitch the exhaust pipe,
making sure the glue stays on the fabric. 04 smoke and rope holding the tree to the roof. 09
54 WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING
felt stocking
04 05 06
10 11 12
WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING 55
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58 WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING
03 04
07 08
facing, between points A and B. Repeat to the top, turn over the raw edge and add a and secure them with the washer, according to
attach the second pair of Body pieces RS running stitch along the very top, close to the the manufacturer’s instructions. 07
together in the same way. folded edge. Gather slightly, then fasten off. 05 Step four Complete the head ball shape by
Step five Lay one body side facing up towards Step nine Add a little more stuffing to top up if sewing the final seam, to join all the pieces. This
you and place the arms in position where required. Stuff the arms, firmly into the hand time leave a 40mm gap in the middle of the
marked on the template, facing in. Check the and thumb, using a small stuffing stick, and seam for turning the head RS out. Trim all the
orientation of the arms, so they will be facing adding less stuffing as you move upwards, with seams to reduce bulk, then turn the head RS
the correct way when the body is turned RS out. no stuffing at the very top, so the arms lie well out. Stuff firmly, rounding out the shape. Once
The top end of the arm should overlap the raw against the body and remain a little floppy. happy with it, ladder stitch the opening closed.
fabric edge of the Body piece to avoid catching Ladder stitch the openings of the arms closed. Step five Lay the Carrot Nose piece RS up on the
the top seam of the arm in the body seam. Tack slightly larger piece of quilt wadding. Sew the
the arms in place. 03 MAKING THE HEAD six quilting lines, using a darker coloured
Step six Lay the opposite body side over the top Step one With RS together, pin and sew one thread, as shown on the template. Make sure
and tack the two pieces RS together. Sew down Head piece to a second Head piece along the not to sew too close to the top edge, as this will
the sides, leaving the top and bottom ends long edges. Start and stop the seam 6mm away be turned under later. Do not fasten the stitches
open. Leave the body turned WS out. from the ends. Continue to sew a second pair of on and off before and after sewing, instead
Step seven Pin the Base piece with its RS facing Head pieces in the same way. 06 leave the threads loose. 08
the bottom edge of the body. Match and pin Step two Sew these two pairs RS together along Step six Trim the wadding to size, snipping the
the front mark on the Base piece with the front the long edge, sewing up to the seams threads at the same time. Carefully fold the
seam of the body first. Match and pin the three previously sewn, so you now have four Head Carrot Nose over in half to the RS, along the
other marks next. Add more pins and ease the pieces joined. length. Pin and sew the long open edge, leaving
fabric until the Base edges lie smoothly with the Step three Use a tailor’s awl or small sharp the top end open. Trim the seam, then turn the
Body pieces. Tack, then sew slowly from the top pointed scissors to make a hole in the fabric nose RS out.
side, making sure not to catch the fabric of the where you marked the position of the eyes on Step seven Stuff the nose, leaving about 8mm
body sides in the seams and checking the fabric two of the joined Head pieces. Note that when unstuffed at the open end. Turn the raw edge
does not pucker underneath. Clip notches in the you mark the position, you should mirror it under by 6mm and using a matching thread,
seam to ease it. 04 when transferring from the template – double sew a running stitch just inside the edge of the
Step eight Turn the body RS out through the check each eye measures the same distance fold. Pull the thread to gather in the edges
opening at the top. Stuff the body, using fingers away from the outside edge of each Head piece, slightly. You can add a few more stitches to hold
and a stuffing stick, pushing firmly into the slightly nearer to the outside than the inside it all together. 09
seams of the base. Leaving 10mm unstuffed at edge. Push each eye in from the RS of the fabric, Step eight Pin the carrot nose to the snowman's
WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING 59
09 10
11 12
face, centrally over the front seam, between and out. Sew the seam. Stitch it in place on the top of the hat, ensuring
just a little lower than the eyes. Use the images Step four Turn the scarf RS out through the to sew right through the very centre of the pom
to help you guide the position. Ladder stitch the opening. Press with an iron to remove creases, pom to keep it securely attached.
nose to the face around the very edge of the folding the raw edges of the opening under to Step five Position and sew the two buttons to
nose, using a matching thread. Sew around the WS. Ladder stitch the opening closed with the front of the snowman’s chest, positioning
twice to secure it well. a matching thread. Trim the ends of the yarn so the top button approximately 5cm away from
Step nine Position the head centrally on top of they are all the same length. the join of the neck.
the body and secure it with extra-long pins. Step six Pull the hat onto the snowman’s head
Check the position from all angles to make sure MAKING THE ACCESSORIES and wrap the scarf around his neck.
you are happy with how it sits. Use doubled or Step one Pin and sew an Outer and Inner Hat
extra strong thread to ladder stitch it to the piece, RS together along their straight edges,
body. Sew around an extra time or two to between C and D. Repeat to sew the opposite
ensure the head is securely attached. pair of Outer and Inner Hat pieces. Lay these
two new pieces RS together, matching up the
MAKING THE SCARF seams just sewn. Sew up both side edges, from
Step one Cut approximately 60 lengths of the point C to E and point D to E. Leave the darts
wool yarn, each one 9cm long, and divide into unsewn and a gap in the inner lining side for
two equal clumps. turning the hat RS out. 11
Step two Fold the Scarf piece in half Step two With their RS facing, pinch the darts
lengthways, with RS facing. Pull back the top together on both the inner and outer Hat sides.
side of one short end and arrange half the yarn Sew each dart up to the top seam, tapering
pieces, laying them neatly on the RS of the towards the bottom. Trim the seam. 12
fabric, facing in. They can be tacked in place if Step three Turn the hat RS out through the
you wish, to keep them lying neatly. Carefully opening in the lining side. Ladder stitch the
lay the top side of the Scarf piece back over the opening closed. Push the inner lining up into
wool pieces. Pin the fabric layers. Repeat to add the outer hat. Pull down slightly to leave part of
the remaining half of the yarn threads at the the inner side showing at the bottom edge. You Lucy Ward (she/her) is
other short end of the scarf. 10 can add a couple of stitches on each side to help a designer-maker based in
Step three Pin the rest of the scarf along its keep the lining in place and on show. Shropshire, UK. Follow her on
open long edge, leaving about a 50mm gap in Step four Make a fairly loose pom pom, using @thewhistlingcowgirl and at
the middle of the seam for turning the scarf RS your wool, measuring about 5cm diameter. thewhistlingcowgirl.etsy.com
60 WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING
No33
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62 WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING
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promotional code can only be used for new bookings only made directly on Ambassador’s website or through our call centre, it cannot be used for bookings made through travel agents or other third parties. Promotional
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pick up a penguin
Come in from the cold this winter with these
gorgeous penguin pyjama trousers and hot
water bottle cover by Jessica Entwistle.
Model: HARVEY JONES
Self-draft
01 02
03 04
TROUSERS
YOU WILL NEED
folded so that one side of the front of the
pyjamas is showing. Smooth out the sides to
mark the true outline. As the top is elasticated
together along the side seams. Finish seams.
Step three Pin and sew the inside legs RS
together, finish seam and press to the Back. 03
■ Fabric A: 1m* the pattern piece from both sides will go
■ Elastic: 25mm width x 1m* straight up and not curve inwards. Draw the CREATING THE WAISTBAND
■ Paper to create the pattern outline and add a 1cm seam allowance to the Step one Fold over the top edge of pyjamas to
■ Pyjama trousers that fit your child sides. Add 3cm to the bottom for the hem. Note the wrong side (WS) by 1cm and press in place.
■ Matching sewing thread where the waistband is sewn – ours is 3.5cm Step two Fold over this pressed edge by 8cm to
■ Erasable fabric marker deep. Add 4.5cm to the top of the pyjamas for the WS and press.
■ Basic sewing kit the elastic channel and seam allowance. Mark Step three Sew the elastic channel, leave a 6cm
the pattern piece “Front.” gap for the elastic. Sew close to the folded
FABRIC USED Step two Repeat for the Back of the pyjamas. 01 edge. Then topstitch close to the top edge.
■ All seam and hem allowances are Step three Cut out the paper patterns and use Step four Work out the length of the elastic by
included them to create a mirrored pair for both the measuring your child and subtracting approx
Front and Back pieces from the fabric. 20%, then add 4cm.
NOTES Step four Mark the top and bottom hems. For Step five Using a safety pin, thread the elastic
■ Use a 1cm seam allowance. the leg hems mark 1cm up from the bottom of through the channel all the way around and out
■ *Fabric and elastic needed is the pyjamas, then 2cm up from that. For the the other side, making sure not to twist it. 04
dependent on the size of the waistband, mark 1cm down from the pyjamas, Step six Stitch the elastic together with a zig zag
pyjama. Our pyjama’s fit an 8-year then 3.5cm down from that 1cm mark (this is stitch. Pin and then sew the opening closed,
old child. where the top edge of the waistband will be) pulling the fabric straight as you go.
■ Pay attention to fabric placement then 3.5cm down from there (so 8cm from the
if your fabric is directional. top edge of the fabric – this is where the HEMMING THE PYJAMA TROUSERS
■ Line up the bottom short straight folded-over waistband will line up). Step one Fold over the edge of one leg by 1cm
edge of your pyjama paper to the WS and press. Fold over again by 2cm to
pattern along the cross grain SEWING THE FRONT AND BACK the marked line. Press then pin in place.
when cutting out your fabric. Step one Take the two Front pieces and pin Step two Topstitch along the folded edge. Press.
them right sides (RS) together along the curved Step three Repeat for the second pyjama leg to
crotch seam and sew from top to bottom. Finish finish your garment.
66 WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING
01 02
03 04
BOTTLE COVER
YOU WILL NEED
Bottle Outer/Lining: four 30x45cm
Step two From contrast fabric, cut:
Binding Strip: two 25x4.5cm
Finally fold in half again. Close with a topstitch.
Step three Sew the second Binding Strip to the
horizontal edge of the Front Upper piece. Fold
■ Main fabric: 1m Loop Strip: one 9x4cm the strip over, tuck the raw edge to the back.
■ Contrast fabric: 30x5cm Step three From Thermolam cut: Pin/clip in place.
■ Vlieseline Thermolam: 60x45cm Bottle Wadding: two 30x45cm Step four Pin the folded Loop Strip to the back
■ Button: 25mm of the Front Upper on top of the folded binding.
■ Matching sewing thread MAKING THE OUTERS Step five Topstitch the Binding twice to secure
■ Erasable fabric marker Step one Place one Bottle Lining right sides (RS) the Loop. 02
■ Basic sewing kit down, place one Bottle Wadding piece on top, Step six You should now have a Front Upper,
then a Bottle Outer RS up on top, all sides Front Lower and Bottle Back pieces. 03
FABRIC USED aligned. Baste/pin together. Quilt as desired –
■ Rose & Hubble CP0378 cotton we quilted vertical lines 3cm apart. ASSEMBLNG THE COVER
poplin penguin fabric, supplied Step two Repeat steps with your second Bottle Step one Place the Bottle Back WS down, the
by minerva.com Lining, Bottle Outer and Thermolam pieces. Front Upper on top RS facing, then the Front
■ Plain grey solid cotton poplin Step three Place your whole bottle template Lower RS facing on top. Clip together. 04
■ Vlieseline products supplied by centrally on top of one of the quilted sections Step two Sew together, trim excess fabric and
vlieseline.com and draw around it, then cut out. This is your sew a zigzag stitch all around the outside edge.
Bottle Back. 01 Turn RS out, push out corners and seams.
NOTES Step four Repeat steps to cut out the Front Step three Hand sew the button on to finish.
■ Use a 1cm seam allowance. Upper and Front Lower pieces.
■ Templates include seam
allowance. ADDING THE BINDING AND THE LOOP
■ Download the template from Step one Take a Binding Strip and place it RS Jessica Entwhistle (she/her) is
gathered.how/ss-templates together along the horizontal edge of the Front a freelance designer maker.
■ Pay attention to fabric placement Lower piece. Sew with a 1cm seam allowance. She shares her makes at
if your fabric is directional. Fold the strip over, tuck the raw edge to the @jessjellybgood - a name
■ Use a walking foot to help sew wrong side (WS) by 1cm, press, then topstitch. inspired by her childhood
through thick layers. Step two Fold the Loop Strip in half WS together nickname, Jelly!
WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING 67
The
e’ve all been there; remains sat in the stash for months on end.
standing in the fabric “I’ve had clients who sew who have rooms
shop, staring in filled to the brim with amazing fabrics.
wonder at rolls up on They’ve been like magpies when they’ve
rolls of enticing fabrics seen and loved them but now don’t know
and feeling slightly what to do with them,” says personal stylist,
giddy at all the possible options for our Lindsay Edwards.
next make. So many exciting possibilities
can, however, not only be thrilling but TRANSFORMATIVE
also somewhat overwhelming. Who When Lindsay lost her confidence with how
hasn’t felt a little bit fraught when trying to dress, she had her colours analysed and
to reach a decision with limited time and found it to be transformative. She explains:
money to spend but “I had a wardrobe full
a wealth of tempting of clothes but didn’t
fabrics to choose feel good. After
from? “ Discovering my discovering my
LIMITLESS
colours simplified colours, it simplified
getting dressed and
As someone who sews get ting dressed." my eyes and skin
their own clothes, looked better in the
with the ability to clothes I wore.”
create almost anything Having benefitted from
you want, it might seem like the world is your the process, Lindsay trained in colour analysis
oyster. However, such limitless possibilities to help other women feel more confident
can sometimes be a hindrance. It’s no and elevate the way they look. Colour
wonder we sometimes face analysis paralysis analysis considers whether you have cool or
when choosing fabric because we’ve all warm undertones to your skin, as well as
experienced the frustration of getting it whether you have high contrasting features
wrong. Lured by the bright and beautiful, the (a la Courtney Cox with pale skin, dark hair Lindsay identifies the best 15 colours based
drapey or dotty and stripy or shiny, the and blue eyes) or less contrasting. Starting on her client's hair, eye and skin colouring
must-have fabric in the shop can end up as with a wallet containing 135 colour swatches, fom a wallet containing 135 colours.
a garment that just doesn’t work for us or Lindsay identifies the best 15 colours to suit
WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING 69
A GOOD READ
INVEST IN YOURSELF
“Getting your colours analysed is an
investment that in a very short amount of
time pays off hugely,” says Lindsay. Learning “I aim to turn your
which colours suit you best can reduce the wardrobe into a wellbeing
overwhelm without needing to limit your tool,” says Kate. We all know that ‘eating
fabric choice options, whilst also helping to a rainbow’ is good for us. We know how
decide which garments to make in which much better a blue sky makes us feel and
colours. “You want to how the sight of
wear your best colours sunflowers can bring
through colour."
explains Lindsay. “It therapy and colour
can help sewists know healing has been
how to niche down around since Stoic
their ideas. If you see times, when it was
a fabric you love, but it used as a healing
isn’t your most flattering colour, you might method prior to antibiotics and mediation to
decide to leave it or buy enough for a skirt heal different ailments of the body, often
instead of a maxi dress.” through the use of stained-glass windows or
fabrics." Colour healing is based on the belief
ENERGY HEALING of seven chakras, or energy points, within the
Personal stylist Kate Harrison believes that body. “Each chakra boosts different areas of
colours not only have the power to make us your wellbeing and has a colour connected
look better but also to feel better. Through to it, with the lower the point on the body
Colour healing is based on the belief of her 20 years’ experience in the style industry, linked to lowest colour vibrations,” she adds.
seven chakras or energy points within the Kate has developed her own system of “We can introduce people to colours to
body and has been used since Stoic times. styling people using not only colour analysis help them with certain things. It’s like
but also energy healing through colour. vitamins, you can supplement your well-
Illustration: Ramziya Abdrakhmanova. Getty Images
70 WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING
A GOOD READ
being through colour. We are being affected
Kate believes how you feel when
by the colours around us whether we know it
wearing a certain colour is going to
have an impact on your life and future. or not, so we may as well harness them in
something that we have to do every single
day − getting dressed.” According to Kate,
brighter colours have a stronger impact on
the chakras but it’s not always the case
that we want colours to be energy giving.
When choosing a colour for your next
sewing project, you first need to decide
what you want to achieve. Take for
example sewing a dress for a first date.
“Whilst red is a great colour for giving
off confidence, what you might
actually want is something calming, so
green would be a better colour,” says
Kate. “What’s important is how it makes
you feel because that’s what’s going to
have a bigger impact on your life and
future.” Both Lindsay and Kate believe
everyone can wear every colour, what
matters is finding the best tone and shade
for you. One of the easiest ways to ABOUT LINDSAY
introduce colour into your wardrobe initially Lindsay Edwards is a personal stylist,
is to choose scarves in your colours. based in Bedfordshire and online,
providing colour analysis, style
consultations, wardrobe edits and
WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING 71
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PAPER
GIFTS
PER ISSUE
SNOWMAN TOY
PAGE 57
ACTUAL SIZE
OPEN
Cut t ARM
wo p
ai rs
Eye
distance
from outer
seam
OPEN
HEAD
Cut five
CARROT NOSE
Cut one
WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING 75
TEMPLATES
SNOWMAN TOY
PAGE 57
ACTUAL SIZE
A OPEN A
f bod osite
r)
(Mirr SERT ARM
y pai
side oor on opp
IN
BODY
Cut four
B B
76 WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING
TEMPLATES
E OPE
NING
ONLIN LININ
Y G
ter) )
T ou er D
HA air ( (inn
p ir
one e pa
t n
Cu ut o
C
C
Cut one
BASE
FRONT
SNOWMAN TOY
PAGE 57
ACTUAL SIZE
WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING 77
TEMPLATES
FABRIC ORNAMENTS
PAGE 61
ACTUAL SIZE
78 WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING
FRESH IDEAS WITH FABRIC
TAPE MEASURE
measurements.
THIMBLE
SHEARS Wear to protect
SEAM RIPPER Keep a pair of your fingers when
This sharp blade sharp shears just handstitching. MARKING PENCIL
cuts through and for cutting out Choose a colour
unpicks stitches. your fabric. that shows up on
your fabric.
TAILOR’S CHALKS
Chalk temporarily marks
fabric and can be easily
brushed away.
SMALL SCISSORS
Use for snipping
threads and
cutting notches.
FABRIC CLIPS
Use these instead PINS
of pins when sewing Stainless steel
thicker fabrics. pins with sharp
points are best.
PINKING SHEARS
These cut a
zigzag edge on THREAD
fabric to neaten. This forms the
top side of the
FABRIC WEIGHTS machine stitch.
Use instead of pins BOBBINS
to hold your This forms the
pattern in place. underside of the
machine stitch.
The guide
FRESH IDEAS WITH FABRIC
HOW TO MEASURE
HEIGHT:
BACK WAIST LENGTH Stand against a wall,
From the top of your barefoot, then measure
spine at the base of from the top of your
YOURSELF ACCURATELY
your neck to your head to the floor
natural waist
HIGH BUST/CHEST:
Across the back,
Always measure yourself before your garment as this can alter the under your arms and
you choose a pattern size to cut measurements slightly. Use a fabric BUST above the bust
out. The sizes do vary greatly from tape measure as it’ll curve around Around the
pattern to pattern, so it’s always your body well for accuracy. You fullest part
best to measure yourself accurately can measure on your own if you of your bust
and then refer to the pattern’s size stand in front of a mirror, but, for
chart to find your size. The chart best results, ask a friend to help so
will usually be printed on the they can check the tape measure is
pattern envelope or on the sitting in the right places. Make
WAIST:
instructions inside. sure the tape measure sits snugly
Your natural
Measure yourself in your around you but is not pulled tight.
waistline, around
underwear and preferably in the Take the measurements shown in
the slimmest part
bra you’ll be wearing underneath the diagram and note them down.
of your waist
PATTERN MARKINGS
run. Once dry, press it well. CUTTING OUT
Lay your fabric flat and smooth it
PREPARING THE PATTERN out. Fold or place the fabric as
Patterns often come with several shown on the cutting layout. Lay
options of different finishes so you the pattern pieces in the order and
may have more pieces than you right side or wrong side up as Pleats: These lines are Arrows: Grainline arrows are used
need. The instruction sheet will tell shown. Check to make sure that matched up to create pleats to show which direction to pin the
you which pieces to use. Roughly the grainlines on the pattern are on the cut out fabric pieces. pattern on the fabric. The grainline
cut out all of the pieces outside the parallel with the selvedges by runs parallel to the fabric edge.
lines then press the pieces using measuring. Pin your pattern pieces
a dry iron on a low heat to remove carefully in place and cut around
the folds and creases. them through the fabric using
a pair of dressmaker’s shears.
CUTTING OUT THE PATTERN
Choose your size using your TRANSFERRING MARKINGS Notches: Shown as
measurements and the size chart. The markings on the pattern triangles or small
Cut along the corresponding lines pieces need to be transferred to lines, these are
Darts: These
on your pattern. When you reach the fabric. They’re really important marked on the
lines are for
any fiddly curves, take care to cut for matching up fabric pieces later edges and are
matching up to
along the correct size lines. and for positioning elements such mainly used for
create darts
as darts and pockets. You can mark matching up
within the
CUTTING LAYOUTS these with chalk, fabric markers, pattern pieces.
fabric pieces.
Choose the correct one for the snips on the fabric, or with small
width of fabric you’re using, the tacking stitches.
80 WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING
TRACING PATTERNS
We are a fabric shop and sewing school in the heart of the beautiful High Peak
Come and see us in our New Mills shop for all We sell dressmaking fabric
your fabric, sewing, bag-making and haberdashery from, amongst others, Fabric
needs. We organise and run a range of classes – Godmother, Lady McElroy and
group workshops, sewing bees and 1-on-1 sessions Art Gallery
– in our studio.
07792943332 | Shop 1, 2-6 Market Street, New Mills,
Derbyshire SK22 4AE | www.rubiesrags.com Rubies Rags
Here at Simply Sewing HQ we’re working hard to make our magazine
a welcoming and inclusive place for all members of the sewing
community. One aspect of this is to increase our pattern sizing. In order to
do this, we have decided to print our pattern sheets double-sided so that we
can fit as many pieces and size ranges on the sheets and still fit them inside
their paper envelopes.
Tracing pattern is the perfect way to keep your origina intact, should you
wish to make larger/smaller versions in the future, or make any pattern
adjustments. You can use any paper for this, but specialist pattern paper for Discover the
tracing is inexpensive and can be bought in rolls of ten+ meters. If you do 1,000s of free website packed
patterns with crochet,
a lot of dressmaking this is the most economical way to purchase the paper. Step-by-step knitting, sewing,
Many variations exist: dot and cross paper (with markings at regular intervals); tutorials papercraft
Video guides and stitching
plain paper; and Swedish tracing paper – this paper can be sewn through so
projects
you can turn a traced pattern into a toile.
www.recyclenow.com
darts, pivot points, gathering lines,
on your traced version.
my favourite thing
Dream to Reality
Mallory’s journey to a perfect grad dress began when she
was 10, and her love of sewing has not stopped since
As a child, I sat in my Auntie’s sewing room, dress. I chose cupro fabric, which aligned with
carefully watching her sew. The intricacies of my values of using a natural fiber, and it gave
the craft intrigued me, as did the precision and off a lovely differing colour, depending on
attention to detail. I was drawn to its fluidity and the lighting and how it draped. I wanted it to
non-exactness. be something I could wear again, and would
At the age of 10, I began learning to sew cherish for years to come. I challenged myself
knowing one day I would make my grad dress. with couture sewing techniques, and kept
Sewing bags and pouches quickly evolved track of the time and cost of the project, to
into more difficult projects and I dove into then compare it to ready-to-wear dresses other
garment sewing. It became an outlet for me. graduates were purchasing.
When I began my grad dress, I didn’t feel the My dress felt perfect. I danced in it all night,
external pressure you would expect. I took it and even when I had to use my wheelchair,
on as a puzzle I needed to solve by thinking I didn't feel restricted due to the bias cut of the
dynamically. dress. It was everything I hoped it would be.
I mapped out six months for my grad dress, Mallory Stewart (she/her) is an Engineering
and after two toiles, I cut into my good fabric. student who lives in the Canadian Prairies. See
My vision was a simple, elegant, bias cut slip her sewing at @mallory_made_creations
82 WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING
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BACK
DRESS B
FRONT
BACK
THE DANNI DRESS
Smart, comfortable, and stylish, The Danni Dress ticks all
the boxes, including the most important of all – pockets!
BODY MEASUREMENTS
UK 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 30
SIZE US 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26
EUR 30 32 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54
WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING
© Designed and printed in the UK for Simply Sewing. Pattern designed by Claire-Louise Hardie.
Supplied by Our Media Ltd, Bristol BS1 4ST. For individual, private home use only.
Not for commercial/manufacturing purposes or resale.
the DA
CUTTING LAYOUTS
BOTH VERSIONS BOTH VERSIONS
150CM WIDE FABRIC 150CM WIDE FABRIC
SIZES 6-16 SIZES 18-30
G
A
A
F
SELVEDGE
FOLD
SELVEDGE
D FOLD
B
D
C
G
E
F
DIAGRAMS
DRESS A DRESS B
FRONT FRONT
BACK BACK
WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING
ANNI DRESS
01 02 03
04 05 06
STITCHING TERMS
RS/WS: Right side/wrong side of the fabric. The right side usually has the print,
Back Facing (F): one on fold
Front Facing (G): one on fold
Step two From the interfacing cut:
design or texture and the wrong side is usually plain or duller in appearance. Back Facing (F): one on fold
Machine tack: Use a long stitch length to hold a section in place. Don’t Front Facing (G): one on fold
backstitch at the start and end.
Finish the seams: Finish the raw edges with a zigzag stitch or an overlocker.
Press: Pressing fabric is placing the iron down holding it for a few seconds,
lifting it and placing it down again. Ironing is the movement of sliding the iron
MAKING THE GARMENT
TRANSFER THE PATTERN MARKINGS
back and forth to remove creases. Step one Snip all notches with a small cut that is no bigger than 5mm. This is to
Understitch: Stitch close to the seam line usually on the side that will be on the ensure your notch doesn’t extend into the stitching line as the seam allowance
inside of the garment such as the facing. This will hold the seam allowance in is just 1cm.
place when the garment is worn. Step two Using your preferred method (tailors tacks, carbon paper or pin
Staystitch: Stitching in areas prone to stretching such as necklines to hold the marking) mark the position of all the circles from the pattern. These are
fabric in shape while it is being worked on. essential for the pocket construction.
Toile: A test garment, often made from calico or muslin to check the fit or test
a pattern before the real fabric is used. Known as a muslin in the US. PREPARING THE FACINGS
Step one Following the manufacturer’s instructions apply the interfacing to the
CUTTING OUT
We recommend making a toile using fabric with similar properties before
wrong sides (WS) of the Front Facing and Back Facing pieces. 01
WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING
the DAN
07 08 09
13 14 15
lay the Lower Front on top of one of the Upper Fronts. corners of the armhole, then pin the corresponding notches together. 07
Step two Pin along the seam and around the pocket. You might find it helpful Step four Fill in with more pins between the three pinned points, and then pin
to mark the stitch lines around the corners of the pocket bag using tailors chalk the other half of this armhole in the same way. 08
or an erasable fabric marker. 03 Step five Sew, then neaten as before if preferred. Note that placing pins at
Step three Stitch, pivoting at the marked circles around the pocket bags. 90-degrees to the edge holds the curved edges better and can hold them
Step four Repeat the above steps, attaching the second Upper Front to the more securely when you sew.
opposite side of the Lower Front. Step six Repeat with the opposite Sleeve. Either press the seam open and
neaten as before if preferred or press towards the sleeve if using an overlocker.
PRESS THE SEAM LINES
Step one Press the seams open from the neck towards the upper end of the SEWING THE UNDERARM SEAMS
Pocket Bag, then allow the lower section of the seam allowance to swing back Step one It’s helpful to pre-press the hemlines of the sleeves/armholes before
a little towards the centre front and press in place. This means you can avoid joining the side seams as they can be fiddly to do afterwards. Press up a 2cm
clipping into the corner causing a weak point on your dress. Neaten the seams hem along the WS of the lower edge of the sleeve or armhole depending on
if preferred, although double knit fabrics don’t fray so this isn’t essential. 04 which version you’re making. 09
Step two Using a seam allowance of just under 1cm, staystitch around the Step two Fold the dress in half at the shoulders, RS together. Unfold the
neckline with a stitch length of 2.8mm. pre-pressed hem so it’s flat.
Step three Pin the side and underarm seams plus the underarm seam of the
STITCH THE SHOULDERS sleeve if you are making version B, matching up the notches as you pin. 10
Step one With RS together, pin and stitch the Back Dress to the assembled Step four For version B (with sleeves) only: Stitch one continuous seam from
dress front at the shoulders. 05 the end of the sleeve through the armhole to the hem.
Step two Press the shoulder seams open if sewing on a machine or towards the Step five For the version A (without sleeves) only: Stitch one continuous seam
back if using an overlocker. from the end of the armhole to the hem.
WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING
NNI DRESS
10 11 12
16 17 18
HEMMING THE DRESS from the neckline. Understitch through the seam allowance and the facings. 17
Step one Set up your machine for twin needle sewing, following your machine Step five Turn the facing to the inside of the dress and press from the WS,
manual for instructions. Alternatively, you can machine stitch with a simple making sure that the seam sits just inside the neck.
zigzag stitch. Try 3mm for the stitch width, and 2.8mm as stitch length.
Step two Pin the pre-pressed hem around the sleeve/armhole ends. Ensure SECURING THE FACINGS
your pins are on the RS of the sleeve. 11 Step one Hand stitch the facings to the seam allowances at the shoulder seams
Step three Working from the RS, use a zigzag stitch to secure the sleeve hem and the two front seams to anchor them in place. 18
using a 1.5cm seam allowance. It is best to practice this first on some fabric Step two Give the dress a final press.
scraps and note the best stitch settings for your machine. Alternatively use
twin needle to secure the sleeve hem. 12
Step four Press a 2cm hem to the WS at the bottom of the dress. From the RS,
FINISHED GARMENT MEASUREMENTS
pin and machine stitch in place using a 1.5cm seam allowance. 13 SIZE UK 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 30
US 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26
EUR 30 32 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54
MAKING THE FACINGS
Step one With RS together, pin then stitch the Front and Back Facings together cm 99 103 107 111 116 121 126 131 136 141 146 151 156
FINISHED
along the short side edges to form a loop. 14 BUST in 39 41 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 56 57 59 61
Step two Press the seams open.
Step three Neaten the lower raw edges of the facing with either a zigzag stitch cm 91 94 97 100 104 109 114 120 126 132 138 144 150
FINISHED
or with an overlocker. WAIST
in 36 37 38 39 41 43 45 47 50 52 54 57 59
FINISH THE NECKLINE cm 88 92 96 100 105 110 115 120 125 130 135 140 145
FINISHED
Step one With RS together, pin the facings around the neckline, carefully HIP
in 34 36 38 39 41 43 45 47 49 51 53 55 57
matching the centre of the fronts, the centre back, and lining up the shoulder
seams of the dress with the side seams of the facings. 15
Step two Sew in place, pivoting at the centre front to create a sharp V. For
a precise result, mark the centre of the V with chalk or an erasable fabric marker
so you know exactly where to pivot.
WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING
Step three Clip into the seam allowance at the centre front V, clipping almost to
© Printed in the UK for Simply Sewing magazine. Designed by Claire-Louise Hardie. Supplied by
the stitch line but not through it. Clip the curved back neckline too. 16 Our Media Company Ltd, Bristol, BS1 4ST. To be used for individual, private home use only and
Step four Working from the RS, press the facings and seam allowances away not for commercial or manufacturing purposes. Not for resale.
WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING
HOW TO PRINT THIS PATTERN
Print out the following pages on A4 paper at 100%.
Overlap the red lines and tape the sheets in place using the guide below.
92 97 102 107
30 28 26 24 22 20 18 16 14 12 10 8 6
93 98 103 C 108
THE DANNI DRESS
Upper Front
94 99 Centre Back
Cut on fold
104 Lengthen/Shorten line
109
Lengthen/Shorten line
TEST SQUARe
TEST SQUARe
10x10cm
95 100
Front pocket seamline placement
10x10cm
105 110
WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING
SIDE 4 OF 4
Pattern sheets are printed double sided – you’ll need to trace your pattern
30
pieces onto pattern paper rather than cutting out directly from this sheet.
28 26
D
112 117 122 127
20 18
16 14
12 10
8 6
SIZE KEY
6
8
Back
10
30 28 26 24 22 20 18 16 14 12 10 8 6
12
F
14
16
18
20
B
Cut one on fold - main fabric 28
Cut one on fold - interfacing 30
Leng
then/S
THE DANNI DRESS
Pocket Bag
horte
n line Cut one pair
THE DANAN
TEST SQUARe
114 119 124 129
30 28 26 24 22 20 18 16 14 1210 8 6
Leng
then/S
horte
TEST SQUARe
n line
SIDE 3 OF 4
Pattern sheets are printed double sided – you’ll need to trace your pattern
pieces onto pattern paper rather than cutting out directly from this sheet.
Find our guide to pattern tracing at gathered.how/tracing-patterns.
Scan the QR code to head to that page.
SIZE KEY
SIDE 1 OF 4
Pattern sheets are printed double sided – you’ll need to trace your pattern
pieces onto pattern paper rather than cutting out directly from this sheet.
Find our guide to pattern tracing at gathered.how/tracing-patterns.
Scan the QR code to head to that page.
SIZE KEY
6
8
10
12
14
16
18
20
22
24
26
28
30
D
THE DANNI DRESS
Back
14 8
line
Front pocket placement
Lengthen/Shorten line
WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING
SIZE KEY
6
8
10
12
14
16
18
20
22
24
26
28
30
C
THE DANNI DRESS
Upper Front
Cut one pair
THE DANNI DRESS
Upper Front
Cut one pair
26 24 22 20 18 16 10 8 6
PART A HERE BEFORE CUTTING OUT
26 22 18 16 14
T
30
26
24
22
20
18
16
14
12
10
8
6
Leng
then/
Short
en line
D
Back
line
THE DANN A
Lowe I DRESS
Cut o r Front
ne on
fold
TEST SQUARe
10x10cm
WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING
SIDE 3 OF 4
Pattern sheets are printed double sided – you’ll need to trace your pattern
pieces onto pattern paper rather than cutting out directly from this sheet.
Find our guide to pattern tracing at gathered.how/tracing-patterns.
Scan the QR code to head to that page.
WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING
SIDE 3 OF 4
Pattern sheets are printed double sided – you’ll need to trace your pattern
pieces onto pattern paper rather than cutting out directly from this sheet.
Find our guide to pattern tracing at gathered.how/tracing-patterns.
Scan the QR code to head to that page.
SIZE KEY
6
8
10
12
14
16
18
20
22
24
26
28
30
181
6
8 6 B
B
THE DANNI DRESS
Pocket Bag
Cut one pair
TEST SQUARe
10x10cm
THE DA
S
30 26 24 18 14 12 10 8
Full sle
WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING
SIDE 4 OF 4
Pattern sheets are printed double sided – you’ll need to trace your pattern
pieces onto pattern paper rather than cutting out directly from this sheet.
Find our guide to pattern tracing at gathered.how/tracing-patterns.
Scan the QR code to head to that page.
SIZE KEY
6
8
10
12
14
16
8
18
20
F 22
THE DANNI DRESS 24
n fold
e Back
26
Cut one on fold - main fabric 28
Cut
Cent
Cut one on fold - interfacing 30
Cut on fold
Centre Front
G
fold - interfacing
fold - main fabric
DANNI DRESS
Cut
Cut
G
DANNI
Cut fold -
Cut fold -
E
E DANNI DRESS
Sleeve
line
PYJAMAS
FRONT
BACK
GEORGE PYJAMAS
Sew the ultimate gender neutral pyjama bottoms in an
afternoon − the perfect beginner-friendly pattern!
NOTES
■ Seam allowances are included and are
f our
1.5cm, unless otherwise stated. Shop more o atterns
p
■ Pin or tack the main pieces together dresmakinge shop at
first to check the fit and mark any in our olin /sewing-
alterations needed before sewing.
gathered.how
■ Sizes J-M will only fit on 145cm wide shop
fabric if cut on the fold.
BODY MEASUREMENTS
SIZE A B C D E F G H I J K L M
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© Designed and printed in the UK for Simply Sewing. Designed by Becky Perry for Prima UK,
November 2023. Supplied by Our Media Ltd, Bristol BS1 4ST. For individual, private home use only.
Not for commercial/manufacturing purposes or resale.
THE GEORG
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GE PYJAMAS
01 02
03 04
STITCHING TERMS
RS/WS: Right side/wrong side of the fabric. The right side usually has the print,
MAKING THE PYJAMAS
JOINING THE FRONTS AND BACKS
design or texture and the wrong side is usually plain or duller in appearance. Step one With right sides (RS) facing, pin Pyjama Fronts together at the centre
Machine tack: Use a long stitch length to hold a section in place. Don’t front seam, matching notches.
backstitch at the start and end. Step two Stitch in place and finish the seam allowances. 01
Finish the seams: Finish the raw edges with a zigzag stitch or an overlocker. Step three Press the seam allowances over to one side.
Press: Pressing fabric is placing the iron down, holding it for a few seconds, Step four With RS facing, pin Pyjama Backs together at the centre back seam,
lifting it and placing it down again. Ironing is sliding the iron back and forth. matching notches.
Understitch: Stitch close to the seam line usually on the side that will be on the Step five Stitch in place and finish the seam allowances.
inside of the garment such as the facing. This will hold the seam allowance in Step six Press the seam allowances over to one side.
place when the garment is worn.
Staystitch: Stitching in areas prone to stretching, such as necklines, to hold the JOINING THE LEGS
fabric in shape while it is being worked on. Step one With RS together and matching the centre seams, pin and stitch the
Topstitch: Stitching usually from the right side of the garment to hold seam Pyjama Fronts to the Pyjama Backs at the side seams.
allowances in place or can be used for decorative purposes. Step two Finish the seam allowances and press them open.
Toile: A test garment, often made from calico or muslin, to check the fit or test Step three With RS together and matching notches, pin and stitch the inside
a pattern before the real fabric is used. Known as a muslin in the US. legs together, making sure the crotch seams match up. 02
Step four Finish the seam allowances and press them open.
NOTES
Seam allowances are included and are 1.5cm, unless otherwise stated.
STITCHING THE WAISTBAND
Step one With the shorts wrong side (WS) out, turn over 1.5cm around the
Pin or tack the main pieces together first to check the fit. waist edge to the WS and press.
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THE GEORG
CUTTING LAYOUTS DIAGRAMS
MAIN FABRIC (SIZE A-I ONLY) MAIN FABRIC (ALL SIZES) FRONT BACK
115CM WIDE 145CM WIDE
2
2
SELVEDGE
SELVEDGE
FOLD
FOLD
1 1
Step two Press under another 3cm at the waist edge to form the waistband.
Step three Pin and stitch to form a casing, leaving an 8cm gap in the stitching
through which we will insert the elastic.
Step four Using a safety pin or bodkin, thread the elastic through the gap. 03
Step five Overlap the ends of the elastic and stitch securely using zig zag stitch.
Try on the pyjamas at this stage to make sure the elastic is the correct length.
Step six Sew up the gap in the stitching.
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© Printed in the UK for Simply Sewing magazine. Pattern design by Becky Perry, illustrations by
Terry Evans for Prima UK, November 2023. Supplied by Our Media Company Ltd, Bristol, BS1 4ST.
To be used for individual, private home use only and not for commercial or manufacturing
purposes. Not for resale.
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GE PYJAMAS
WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING
HOW TO PRINT THIS PATTERN
Print out the following pages on A4 paper at 100%.
Overlap the red lines and tape the sheets in place using the guide below.
© Printed in the UK for Simply Sewing. Designed by Becky Perry for Prima
UK, November 2023. Supplied by Our Media Ltd, Bristol BS1 4ST.
TEST SQUARe
For individual, private home use only. Not for commercial/manufacturing
purposes or resale.
SIDE 2 OF 2
Pattern sheets are printed double sided – you’ll need to trace your
pattern pieces onto pattern paper rather than cutting out directly
from this sheet. Find our guide to pattern tracing at gathered.how/
tracing-patterns.
Scan the QR code to head to that page.
10x10cm
139 144 149 2
Back
154 SIZE KEY
A
B
C
D
Cut one pair E
F
G
H
I
K
L
M
J K LM
A BC D E F G H I J K LM
I
J K L M
I
A BC D E F G H
PART B (Attach to PART A along dotted line)
THE george pyjamas
SIDE 1 OF 2
Pattern sheets are printed double sided – you’ll need to trace your
pattern pieces onto pattern paper rather than cutting out directly
from this sheet. Find our guide to pattern tracing at gathered.how/
tracing-patterns.
Scan the QR code to head to that page.
SIZE KEY
1
143 148 153 158
A
B
C
THE george pyjamas
Front
D
TEST SQUARe
E
Cut one pair
F
G
H
I
J
10x10cm
K
L
M
TEST SQUARe
10x10cm
A E F G H I J
ATTACH PART A HERE BEFORE CUTTING OUT
1
THE george pyjamas
Front
PART B (Attach to PART A along dotted line)
Cut one pair
WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING
© Printed in the UK for Simply Sewing. Designed by Becky Perry for Prima
UK, November 2023. Supplied by Our Media Ltd, Bristol BS1 4ST.
For individual, private home use only. Not for commercial/manufacturing
purposes or resale.
SIDE 1 OF 2
Pattern sheets are printed double sided – you’ll need to trace your
pattern pieces onto pattern paper rather than cutting out directly
from this sheet. Find our guide to pattern tracing at gathered.how/
tracing-patterns.
Scan the QR code to head to that page.
SIZE KEY
A
B
C
D
E
F
G
H
I
J
K
L
M
A C H I J K L
1
THE george pyjamas
Front
2
Back
© Printed in the UK for Simply Sewing. Designed by Becky Perry for Prima
UK, November 2023. Supplied by Our Media Ltd, Bristol BS1 4ST.
For individual, private home use only. Not for commercial/manufacturing
purposes or resale.
SIDE 2 OF 2
Pattern sheets are printed double sided – you’ll need to trace your
pattern pieces onto pattern paper rather than cutting out directly
from this sheet. Find our guide to pattern tracing at gathered.how/
tracing-patterns.
Scan the QR code to head to that page.
SIZE KEY
A
B
C
D
E
F
G
H
I
J
K
L
M
A C H I J K L
Back
(Attach to PART B along dotted line)
Cut one pair
CUTTING OUT
PART A
ATTACH PART B HERE
learn
m
baG- !A k i n g
skills
Adjustable strap
Handy pockets
This super-fun handbag from Amber Makes has handy
internal pockets and a thick adjustable strap
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The AM
01 02 03
07 08 09
STITCHING TERMS
RS/WS: Right side/wrong side of the fabric. The right side usually has the print,
Step two From the Main Fabric, cut:
Bag Front Outer (A): one
Bag Back Outer (A): one
design or texture and the wrong side is usually plain or duller in appearance. Outside Pocket Front (B): one
Topstitch: This is a line of stitching worked 3-5mm from the fabric edge to Outside Pocket Back (B): one
neaten and decorate Strap Tab Outer (C): two
Slipsttitch: This is worked by hand using small, neat almost invisible stitches. Strap Outer: 4.5x110cm
These stitches are worked into the fold of the fabric on one side then into the Step three From the Lining Fabric, cut as follows:
fabric on the other side Bag Front Lining (A): one
Tack: Tacking is used to temporarily hold layers of fabric together to make the Bag Back Lining (A): one
assembly neater and easier. This can be done by hand using a long Running Inside Pocket Front (B): one
Stitch or by machine using a slightly longer stitch and worked within the seam Inside Pocket Back (B): one
allowance Strap Tab Lining (C): two
Glue: a specialist, water soluble fabric glue which won’t mark the fabric or Strap Lining: 4.5x110cm
make your needle sticky is ideal for holding zips in place whilst you sew them.
Nesting seams: The method of nesting seams really helps to get seams to
match up exactly when sewing two pieces of fabric together. Press the seam
allowances of the two pieces you’re joining in opposite directions. Place one
MAKING THE BAG
SEWING THE DARTS
seam RS facing on top of the other and if you slide the top seam gently then it Step one Place the Bag Front Outer and the Bag Back Outer right side (RS) up
will butt up to the seam on the bottom. Pin then stitch together. on top of the wadding and press into place if you’re using fusible wadding.
Turning gap: This is the gap left unstitched in a seam, that is used for turning Tack together all round within the seam allowance and inside the shaped
joined fabric pieces fabric right sides out through afterwards. corner dart sections if you’re using non-fusible.
For more sewing terms visit gathered.how/sewing-glossary. You’ll also find Step two Trim the wadding level with the outer edge of both pieces including
sewing guides and free projects there. the dart sections at the bottom edge. 01
Step three Take the Bag Front Outer and fold one of the dart sections RS facing
CUTTING OUT
Step one Trace or cut out all the pattern pieces from your pattern sheet. Pin
so the raw edges meet, and pin together. Sew together to create the dart by
stitching in a straight line from the top raw edge past the cut-out section. 02
Step four Repeat this to fold, pin and sew the other dart section in place to
them to the RS of the fabric and cut round them then label them as listed. create the second dart. This creates a curved and shaped bottom to your bag.
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MBER BAG
04 05 06
10 11 12
Press the dart seam over towards the side edges of the Bag Front Outer. Step six Pin or glue a zip beneath the post box and topstitch in place. Trim the
Step five Take the Bag Back Outer, Bag Front Lining and the Bag Back Lining ends off the zip to 2cm outside the stitched box. 07
and fold, pin and sew the darts into place in the same way. Step seven Place the Inside Pocket Back RS facing with the Inside Pocket Front
Step six Press the dart seam over towards the side edges of the Bag Front and pin together. Stitch together all round the edge taking care not to stitch
Lining. Press the dart seam over towards the centre of the Bag Back Outer and into the Bag Back Lining but only through the two Pocket pieces.
the Bag Back Lining. Pressing the Fronts and Backs in opposite directions Step eight Pin the top edges of the Inside Pocket Front and Inside Pocket Back
allows the seams to nest when you construct the bag for a neater, flatter finish. to the top edge of the Bag Back Lining and tack the three layers together to
secure the top of the Pocket in place. Your Zip Pocket is now complete. 08
MAKING THE POCKETS Step nine Make the Outside Pocket in the same way using the Outside Pocket
There are two pockets on the bag, the Outside Pocket is sewn to the Main Front and the Outside Pocket Back. Stitch it to the Bag Front Outer, if you want
Fabric and the Inside Pocket is sewn to the Lining Fabric. the Pocket on the front of the bag or the Bag Back Outer if you want the Pocket
Step one To add a pocket to the Lining, take the Inside Pocket Front and on the on the back of the bag. 09
wrong side (WS) measure 7cm down from the top edge and draw a line
horizontally across the fabric. Draw a second line 5mm below this and a third ADDING THE MAGNETIC SNAP CLOSURE
line 5mm below the second line so you have three parallel lines each spaced Step one Take the Bag Back Lining and place the backplate of the male section
5mm apart. Now draw a vertical line across each end of these three lines so that of the Magnetic Snap so the central hole is positioned centrally 4cm down from
they measure 15cm long and are placed centrally. Draw short diagonal lines the top of the WS. Draw lines through each of the slots. 10
from the centre line to the outer. The outer drawn box is the sewing line, and Step two Carefully cut along these slots - a seam ripper is ideal for this.
the inner central line and diagonal lines are the cutting lines. 03 Step three Cut a 4x4cm piece of wadding and mark and cut slots centrally in it,
Step two Place this marked Inside Pocket Front RS facing on top of the Bag Back in the same way as you did with the Bag Back Lining. This will make the
Lining, so the top raw edge of the Bag Inside Pocket Front is level with the top Magnetic Snap more secure.
raw edge of the of the Bag Back Lining and placed centrally across. Pin into Step four Push the prongs of the male section of the Magnetic Snap through
place all round. the cut slots so the Magnetic Snap sits on the RS of the Bag Back Lining then
Step three Stitch together around the outer marked box. 04 push them through the cut-out slots on the wadding square.
Step four Cut along the central cutting line and along the diagonal lines, taking Step five Place the backplate over the prongs then fold the prongs over and
care not to cut the stitching at the corners. 05 the Magnetic Snap will be neatly attached. 11
Step five Post the Inside Pocket Front through the slit to the WS of the Bag Back Step six Repeat this process to attach the female section of the Magnetic Clasp
Lining and press flat with the seams lying right on the edge to create a postbox to the Bag Front Lining, making sure you measure carefully so they meet up
shaped opening. 06 exactly when the bag is closed. 12
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The AM
13 14 15
19 20 21
ASSEMBLING THE BAG OUTER AND LINING from being pulled out. Tack into place. 16
Step one Place the Bag Front Outer and the Bag Back Outer RS facing. Pin then Step two Repeat this to pin and tack the other Bag Strap Tab RS facing centrally
stitch together all the way down one side, around the curved bottom edge and on top of the other side seam of the Bag Outer.
up the other side but leaving the top straight edge unstitched. Nest the dart
seams when you reach them, making sure they match up exactly. 13 ASSEMBLING THE BAG
Step two Press the seams open. This completes the Bag Outer. Step one Turn the Bag Outer WS out, then place the Bag Lining inside the Bag
Step three Repeat this to sew the Bag Front Lining and the Bag Back Lining RS Outer, so they are RS facing. Match up the top raw edges and the side seams,
together but leaving a 10cm gap unstitched centrally between the darts to then pin together all around.
create the turning gap. Step two Stitch together all round the top edge. 17
Step four Fold both edges of the turning gap over by 1cm to the WS, level with Step three Pull the Bag Lining out from inside the Bag Outer then press the top
the seams either side and press. 14 seam open and flat.
Step five Turn RS out. This completes the Bag Lining. Step four Turn the Bag RS out through the turning gap in the Bag Lining. Push
out the curved corners and slipstitch the turning gap closed by hand or
MAKING THE STRAP TABS topstitch by machine.
Step one Place one Strap Tab Outer and one Strap Tab Lining RS facing and sew Step five Push the Bag Lining inside the Bag Outer and topstitch around the
together down the long edges. top edge to neaten, making sure the both the Strap Tabs and D-Rings are
Step two Trim the seam allowances in half to reduce bulk then press open. facing upwards. 18
Step three Turn RS out and press, then topstitch down both long edges to
neaten and decorate. This completes one Strap Tab. MAKING THE STRAP
Step four Repeat this to make another Strap Tab in the same way using the Step one Turn the two short ends of the Strap Outer over by 1cm to the WS and
other Strap Tab Outer and Strap Tab Lining pieces. press. Repeat with the two short ends of the Strap Lining and press. 19
Step five Thread one Strap Tab through a D-Ring then match the raw short Step two Place the Strap Outer and the Strap Lining RS facing. Pin then stitch
edges and tack into place. Repeat with the other Strap Tab and a D-Ring. 15 together down the long edges, making sure that the short ends of both pieces
stay turned under so you are stitching over them.
ADDING THE STRAP TABS Step three Press the seams open then turn the Strap RS out and press, so the
Step one Place one Strap Tab centrally on top of one of the side seams of the short ends stay turned under.
Bag Outer so that the raw edges of the Strap Tab extend 2cm above the raw Step four Carefully topstitch all the way round the edges of the Strap to neaten
edges of the Bag Outer. This will make the Strap Tab extra secure and prevent it and decorate.
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MBER BAG
16 17 18
22 23 24
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© Printed in the UK for Simply Sewing magazine. Design by Amber Makes.
Supplied by Our Media Limited, Eagle House, Colston Avenue, Bristol BS1 4ST.
For individual, private use. Not for commercial/manufacturing purposes. Not for resale.
WWW.AMBERMAKESCO.COM
WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING WWW.AMBERMAKESCO.COM
© Printed in the UK for Simply Sewing magazine. Design by Amber Makes. Supplied by
Our Media Limited, Eagle House, Colston Avenue, Bristol BS1 4ST. To be used for
individual, private home use only and not for commercial or manufacturing purposes.
Not for resale.
SIDE 1 OF 1
Overlap the red lines and tape the sheets in place using the guide below.
Pattern sheets are printed double sided – you’ll need to trace your pattern
pieces onto pattern paper rather than cutting out directly from this sheet.
Find our guide to pattern tracing at gathered.how/tracing-patterns.
Scan the QR code to head to that page.
169
170
171
Print out the following pages on A4 paper at 100%.
HOW TO PRINT THIS PATTERN
B
A the AMBER bag
Pocket
Cut two Outer Fabric
Cut two Lining Fabric
166
167
168
C
the
AMBER
bag TEST SQUARe
Strap Tab
Cut two
Outer Fabric
10x10cm
Cut two
Lining Fabric
the AMBER bag
Bag Front/Back
BER bag
C
the
AMBER
bag
Strap Tab
Cut two
Outer Fabric
Cut two
Lining Fabric
Cut two Outer Fabric
Cut two Lining Fabric
TEST SQUARe
10x10cm
WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING WWW.AMBERMAKESCO.COM
© Printed in the UK for Simply Sewing magazine. Design by Amber Makes. Supplied by
Our Media Limited, Eagle House, Colston Avenue, Bristol BS1 4ST. To be used for
individual, private home use only and not for commercial or manufacturing purposes.
Not for resale.
SIDE 1 OF 1
Pattern sheets are printed double sided – you’ll need to trace your pattern
pieces onto pattern paper rather than cutting out directly from this sheet.
Find our guide to pattern tracing at gathered.how/tracing-patterns.
Scan the QR code to head to that page.
A
the AMBER ba
Bag Front/Back
ag
B
the AMBER bag
Pocket
Cut two Outer Fabric
Cut two Lining Fabric