I can definitely relate to all of this. In recent history I've tried very hard during interview processes to find shops that have "programmer-first" cultures. In interviews I am clear and direct about my distaste of micromanagement and bureaucracy. I've noticed that about 10%-20% of folks I talk with instantly relate and tell me about how their company has few meetings and high levels of autonomy. I pass on the rest.

I've found companies that tend to focus on lower level products (compilers, graphics, systems programming, etc) tend to have a much better chance of letting engineers do what they do best and staying out of the way. In some sense the work I do kind of chose me, because that's where I've gravitated.