The normal, systemd NixOS does actually make it "stupid easy". It will fetch the latest kernel that is compatible with ZFS and has single-line config options for auto-snapshots, and the like.
I don't have personal experience with zfsboot - I have used UEFI/systemd-boot previously with ZFS root, and now use an initrd which loads the encryption key to ZFS root.
But NixOS itself does something similar, it has generations and if you change some setting and rebuild your system, the previous' link will be available in the boot menu, so you can easily try out stuff and just revert if it doesn't work - it is file system independent, but it only handles nix-specific stuff.